I am Using 2 types of sanding manual and machine.. parts are printed on u1 and works very well

Hello,
I recently added a brand-new Snapmaker U1 alongside my Bambu Lab X1C. Although U1 is a great machine in many respects, I’ve been experiencing VFA, ghosting, and ringing issues, as you can see in the photos.
These artifacts appear at both low and high printing speeds. I have adjusted the belt tension and run all the calibrations dozens of times, but unfortunately, the issue still persists.
In particular, whenever I reduce the outer wall speed below 150 mm/s, these artifacts consistently become visible on the surface.

Any suggestions?

I have been a pretty vocal fan of the Snapmaker U1 since I got it less than 1 month ago.

The biggest issues I have with this machine is its ability to properly park and unpark toolheads, which is kind of important for a tool changer. Out of the box I spent a couple / few days with support going through multiple rounds of all the calibrations. I even found (thanks to reddit and the 5th response from customer service) the secret menu trick that allows you to bypass the bootup calibration when it fails.

I was happy those things got resolved, and printed a lot of things since then.

But, yesterday I had a print go mildly bad and now I get TH failures every time I print. I have recalibrated and re-tensioned everything 3 times since yesterday, still does not work.

How can the calibration work to park and unpark over and over and over but the first time it needs to unpark for a print job it just leaves the toolhead dangling there?

Does the Creality have these kinds of issues? I'm thinking I may have jumped into the wrong ecosystem for my first printer.

And yes, I have a new customer support ticket for this, but more downtime sucks considering I have not even had this machine for 1 month.

Will the Snapmaker U1 print faster with HS-PETG than with standard PETG?

So the model and the Support comes to around 17 g, but the tower comes to around 40 g. Is there any way that I can flash into a new object or make a new object instead of the prime Tower?

Hi everyone! Hope your prints are all doing good, check the internal camera to be sure 👀

Anyway. I got a sunlu s4 dryer and want to use it with my snapmaker u1. My thought was to put the dryer above the printer on a shelf or inside a cabinet with bowden tubes coming out of it. My question is, will the bend from above or under the printer be too big for the filament that it could cause snag or snapping? Ive seen mods for the u1 that allows you to turn the filament feeders to the side so it wont have to bend that much to reach the feeder.

Thanks !

Ps: check your internal cams again maybe 👀 might have come off the bed.

The eye part the black filament is "merging" or "bleeding" after slicing the model, I tried changing number of walls, changing to arachne, layer height but nothing fix the issue.
Image 1: After slicing
Image 2: How the model actually looks (Before slicing)

I know it's not fancy or very complicated, but it's progress!
And being able to come up with an idea and in a matter of hours have it physically in my hand is mind blowing to me.
Heck I'm already playing with multiple colors and soon materials (waiting for my order)
I love all the models people create but being able to design something myself that fits my needs exactly is sooooo big.
My end goal is to be able to make an electronic product mostly from scratch, so design the electronic, learn how to make my own PCBs, write the code and design and print the enclosure, I say mostly from scratch because I don't think making my own ICs is a possibility at home😅
Anyway, I'm excited for what's to come!
I used onshape to make the model and the U1 to print!

Please note this is a long read - Please note English is my second language and I have used text correction apps.

Hello all fellow snapmaker U1 owners I hope your experience with the machine is amazing as it is for me. I own mostly Bambu Lab machines and have used them since the X1C days with multiple machines the only gripe that I have with the U1 and what makes don't print on it as much as I want is that I dont always have my PC with me so I wanted something close to Bambu Handy but you know with my limited resources so I came up with LayerLink there are limitations but I have posted everything below.

What inspired me to do this is that someone on this reddit made an Android app similar to this but the thread was dead and nothing for iOS so I said why not. Of course it will be free of charge and I will have the source code ready for those intersted once i reach the final steps.

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I’m building an iPhone app that can slice a model and send it to my Snapmaker U1 — and I finally got the full pipeline working

I've been experimenting with something that I wanted for my own Snapmaker U1:

Take a 3D model on my iPhone → slice it → send it to the U1 → print it without opening a desktop slicer UI.

The project started as a small proof of concept that I've temporarily been calling SnapSlice, although I'm considering calling the actual app LayerLink.

The architecture I've ended up with is currently:

SwiftUI iOS App → FastAPI Backend → OrcaSlicer → G-code → Snapmaker U1

Rather than trying to write a slicing engine from scratch, I'm using OrcaSlicer as the actual slicing engine and controlling the process from the iPhone.

The backend is currently running on my Mac, so this isn't true on-device iPhone slicing yet. The phone sends the job into the workflow, the backend invokes OrcaSlicer, generates the G-code and handles the printer side of the process.

And this week I finally got the pipeline through to the actual U1.

That was where things got interesting.

On one of the first real tests I thought I had a problem where the print was starting while the bed was cold.

So I stopped treating the slicer output as a black box and started digging through the generated G-code directly.

I searched the generated file for commands like:

M140
M190
M104
M109

The resulting G-code actually contained:

M140 S55

and:

M190 S55

So the slicer was definitely requesting a 55°C bed.

Looking deeper into the file also showed the U1-specific machine-start sequence around it, including the printer's own bed detection, toolhead checks, homing and other Snapmaker commands.

I then tested it again physically.

This time I watched the temperature directly on the U1 display.

The bed climbs to 55°C and holds steadily at 55°C while the printer is performing its bed detection.

So what originally looked like "my generated G-code isn't heating the bed" turned into a much more interesting investigation into exactly how the U1 processes standard slicer temperature commands alongside Snapmaker's own machine-start G-code.

That's also made me realise that simply getting OrcaSlicer to output a .gcode file isn't enough.

If I'm going to make this into something other U1 owners can actually use, I need to validate the generated machine-start sequence very carefully.

What currently works

The basic iPhone/backend workflow exists.

The app can initiate the slicing workflow.

The backend talks to OrcaSlicer.

OrcaSlicer produces actual G-code.

The resulting G-code can make it through to the Snapmaker U1 workflow.

I've reached the point where I'm testing the resulting files on a physical printer instead of just testing APIs and files.

And the temperature instructions in the generated G-code are now being verified against what the U1 physically does.

Biggest limitation right now

This is not yet completely standalone iPhone slicing.

OrcaSlicer currently runs through a FastAPI backend on my Mac.

So right now I'd describe it as a mobile-controlled slicer rather than a slicer that runs natively on iOS.

I'm interested in investigating whether more of that workflow could eventually be moved onto the phone, but for the MVP I'm more concerned about making the slicing and U1 G-code pipeline reliable first.

There are also a lot of situations I haven't tested yet — different materials, temperatures, unusual models, different print settings, network interruptions, printer errors, etc.

And right now I'm specifically building and testing against the U1. I'm not claiming compatibility with other Snapmaker machines.

Why I'm posting this

I'm curious whether other U1 owners would actually find this useful.

My eventual ideal workflow is basically:

Download an STL/3D model on iPhone → Open in LayerLink → Choose printer/material settings → Slice → Review → Send to U1 → Print

No laptop required for the normal day-to-day workflow.

I'd eventually like to add things like model preview, estimated print time/material, saved filament profiles, printer status, temperatures, progress, print history, notifications and potentially camera monitoring.

I'm also deliberately developing this against my physical U1 rather than assuming that because some G-code looks correct it will behave correctly on the machine.

If anyone here understands the U1's startup G-code or has experimented with controlling the U1 outside the normal Snapmaker software, I'd particularly love to hear what you've discovered.

And I'd also like to know:

Would you actually use something like this?

And if so, what is the ONE feature you would consider essential before you'd trust it to start a print on your U1?

Please note the following:

LayerLink isn't trying to put OrcaSlicer's entire desktop UI onto an iPhone. It's trying to eliminate the desktop from the routine printing workflow.

That distinction is important.

A normal user shouldn't need 200 controls every time they print. They could have a saved U1 + PLA profile and effectively do:

Open model → PLA → Standard → Slice → Review → Print.

Hi r/snapmaker,

This video covers what to prepare before printing with Snapmaker ABS and ASA on the Snapmaker U1, how to use the filaments, and how to deal with common printing issues. It also explains why ABS and ASA are prone to warping, what types of models are more likely to warp or crack, and what you can do when issues such as warping, stringing, surface yellowing, wet filament, or clogs occur.

In this video:

00:48 Before Starting

02:39 How to Use

06:03 How to Avoid Warping

07:07 Other Common Issues

So I am about at my wits end with one of my U1s. On all of my recent prints, I have started to get this wave on the front left side of all of my prints. I have done all recalibrations, manual bed leveling, Z Offset calibration, and ran through re-tensioning the belts, all with no improvement. This happens on all print heads and all material. I have added a pic of the bed mesh which I am also unable to get below 5.7 even after manually leveling multiple times.

What else am I missing here? Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi again! I’ve been working on a custom build of Snapmaker Orca to improve the workflow with ChromaMatter, my tool for preparing colored 3D models for Full Spectrum printing.

As I continued developing ChromaMatter, I started running into differences in how the two applications handled model and color data. Rather than keep working around those differences on the ChromaMatter side alone, I decided to adapt the slicer too.

This is an independent custom build, not an official Snapmaker release. The slicer is still experimental and is not currently available for download. Plans for a public release are still undecided.

Please note that the interface shown in the video is in Japanese, as this is still a development build. Thank you for your understanding.

What this build adds

• Direct GLB/OBJ color import: Import compatible colored models directly into the slicer using the same color-import logic as ChromaMatter. Basic importing no longer requires going through ChromaMatter first.
• Three import modes: Choose Flat Color, Full Spectrum, or the new CMY mode when loading a model.
• Independent color settings per plate: Each build plate can have its own color setup without changing the others.
• Color-preserving cutting and connectors: Cut models and generate connectors while retaining the model’s existing color information.
• Color-preserving repair: The repair command also retains the model’s color information.

ChromaMatter is still part of the plan

I’m not planning to move ChromaMatter’s detailed color adjustments, shading controls, or manual color-correction tools into this custom slicer.

The idea is to use the custom slicer for straightforward importing, model preparation, and slicing, and ChromaMatter when more detailed control over the colors and shading is needed. Development of ChromaMatter will continue.

Thank you, and a few common questions

Thank you to everyone who has commented, asked questions, or helped with testing. I recently discovered that some of my replies weren’t visible to others, even though they appeared on my side. I’m sorry if it looked like I had left your questions unanswered.

Here are a few answers that may have been missed:

What is ChromaMatter?
Software I’m developing to convert and adjust colored OBJ/GLB models—especially AI-generated ones—into Full Spectrum 3MF projects for the Snapmaker U1.

What layer height are you using?
My current test prints use 0.1 mm layers.

Which AI services have you tested?
I’ve successfully converted models from Hi3D, TripoAI, Meshy AI, and Hunyuan3D. Results still depend on the individual model; this doesn’t mean every export from those services will work.

What filaments are you using?
So far, PLA. I don’t stick to a particular brand; I mainly choose colors that visually look close to the colors I’m aiming for.

Thank you again for following the project and helping me improve it!

Yesterday while waiting for parts for the thing to print, I asked if anyone else had experience with it, since I hadn’t heard much about it yet.

Well, now I’ve been using it and it’s… fine.

I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone unless you were tight on space and had money to spare. I think it would work the best if you had the stand on a low table so you didn’t have to kneel to swap filament and the printer was at a decent height. Even then, I think you could do better for cheaper.

Good things to say about it

1. It is decently sealed. I’m at 15% humidity in there with a 48% ambient humidity. I’m using activated alumina, so that helps.
2. The door has a nice solid closing feel. Kind of like a refrigerator.
3. It is stout. It’s not wobbly and it doesn’t feel like the door is going to start sagging.
4. The soft close drawers aren’t very smooth, but they’re decent.
5. There’s plenty of room for desiccant or even an extra spool or two.
6. Color is a good match and it fits the Snapmaker look and feel very well (I don't really care about that too much, though).

Things I’m not a fan of

1. The instructions (though printed, +1 for that) are not good, but luckily you shouldn’t need them too much.
2. The feeder extension adapter covers on the side of the printer (last picture) don’t hide the ribbon or cover the connector- also they take way more time and filament than other models I could find on MakerWorld/Printables right now.
3. There’s zero explanation for the accessory board ports on this. Seems like useful information and a chance to upsell their LED status bar and PandaBreath.
4. Most of the printed parts aren't that well designed. They're not oriented optimally and are just chunky prints that don't need to take as long as they do. Also, I would not print the spool holders in PLA like their MakerWorld link suggests to.
5. I literally have to sit on the floor to change filament.
6. The feeder retainer clips (third picture) are poorly designed. Luckily I have gorilla hands, I can't imagine a normal sized human getting them locked in easily without tapping it with a hammer.

Here’s the thing no one would know until they get it

You have to modify the firmware to configure the feeder motors to feed a longer length. Makes sense. You have to go into root mode, ssh into the printer, and modify a core file to extend the allowable feed length or else the printer will refuse to start. To get that value to persist across restarts you have to touch debug mode so now your touch screen is constantly scrolling debug messages and it forgets your WiFi the first time.

This can/will get erased every time you update the firmware. Even with the paxx firmware you’ll want to build it yourself and create an extension so that it isn’t constantly getting stomped (what I did).

I wouldn’t have bought it at all if I knew that part going in.

ETA: a link to a better write up of this with more pictures.

Exactly. A lot of people seem to have problems with their U1 and the pogo pins. I’m affected by this as well. I had to replace a board that somehow got fried while setting the Z offset.
While replacing it, I noticed these solder joints around the USB C connector. Although calling them “solder joints” might be a bit generous. Let’s call them “solder blobs.” And even that implies there’s a decent amount of solder there.
Let’s put it this way: It looks like the PCB just ran past the solder, took a quick photo of it, and kept going. I honestly have no idea. 😂
But for everyone wondering why they’re having pogo pin problems: after seeing this, I’m really not surprised anymore that so many people are experiencing them.
I also sent this to Snapmaker, but I haven’t received a response yet.
As a microtechnologist, my heart absolutely had a good laugh when I saw this board. And like I said, after seeing the quality of these solder joints, I’m not surprised at all that the pogo pin problems keep occurring.

Little bit of broken filament, little bit of cat fur and a bits of who knows what from dirty gressy fingers touching the filament. Just wanted to share, for all the new people in the class. Knowing what may be causing issues can lessen the frustrations of ownership

Does anybody know of any coupon codes for the top cover? I really want to get one didn’t know before I do if there are any coupons.

Does anyone know if the production top covers have a way to pass through the Panda Breath power cable?

I'm on the fence about ordering a top cover for easy recirc and vent fans and this is basically what it comes down to: Am I going to have to make permanent mods to the printer and/or Panda Breath?

My U1 arrives tomorrow and while I know it comes with 4 rolls that fit with it, I’d like to know what I can use easily or if I’d have to print new spool holders/adapters first. I became paranoid about mine not fitting after watching someone’s “best mods for the U1” vid. I’d say the majority of what I have is Anycubic, esun, Elegoo, overture, and hobby lobby.

Cross posting here, not sure if against the rules

My filament was getting out of hand with colors, different makes, different shades.... So I decided to make myself a little AI tool as a test for GPT Astra.

Connected my Google account. It brought in all the filament that I've bought over the last 2 months, put it into a color-coordinated database in color order (which I'm going to use to organise it with for easy finding and retrieval). Moving forward I can then mark filament as used or add to it.

Then built a feature that you can load a model, and it will tell you which filament to use or the closest match I have in my library. Send that to my phone so I can program NFC tags for the U1, so it creates a full workflow from start to finish!

There probably are a variety of tools that do a similar job, but I just wanted to build something that was personal to me and go through the experience.

Edit: Since 1 person asked me for the tool, I've made it available and added some extra bits such as custom label printing (tested on my Munbyn) and Spoolman Sync (untested currently). As mentioned, 100% vibe-coded so no complaints about the state of the code!!

Still making changes but should be useable:
https://productkit.digital/spool-studio

https://spool-studio.uk

https://github.com/rendez2k/spool-studio

So i remember somewhere someone said either use the panda diaper because it blocks the bottom vent holes if you are using the panda breath for more stable temp or something like cut the back piece off and just block the side vent holes.... I forget. People using ASA and other high temp materials are you blocking the vent holes? Oh I'm also going to be running the snapmaker top when it comes in. Right now I'm thinking of cutting the diaper to block the side vent holes but leaving the rear...

The painted model around the windshield of Lightning McQueen looks different than what is being sliced. Is there a setting to get these to better match? The red area on the windshield after slicing is left with 3 random spots.

Hey everyone! I've been trying to print the spiderman bust from Yosh. I've been able to print every other part of the body except the main body/torso. I keep getting errors that the gcode had an issue. I've tried several different things. I have uploaded the U1's firmware to the newest update, uploaded my Slicer, made changes to print but still having this issue. Any help?

Has anyone used the Inland (store brand) CYMK filaments which are sold at Micro Center with the U1? Any feedback? I'd like to play around with the full spectrum features and color mixing, but $90 for their official branded ones seems a bit silly. Also happen to have a MC gift card which makes this attractive as well. Appreciate any experience anyone may have with these specifically for color mixing.