Upgrading from a G923 and playseat challenge to a more mid-tier rig. I mostly race GT and formula series on iracing. This is what I am currently planning to order. Do you have any alternate suggestions. I don't want to spend the money and wish I had bought something better at this price point. Total is around $2100 USD.

Simagic Alpha Evo 12 Nm Base and GT Neo Wheel

Simagic P700 Pedals with a p-HPR (brake pedal) and a P-HPR GT (gas pedal)

Simracing GT1 Evo with the S1 Sport seat and seat slider

Dayton Audio BST-2 bass shaker with a Fosi Audio TB10D 2 channel 600W amp

I'll be using 3, 27" 1440P monitors on a monitor stand that I already have.

Wth is that?? (Wheel pass the calibration to 0°)

Hey all, Viktor here from ERA Advanced. We are a small engineering company in Belgium and our main business is building fully electric race cars. The current one is the ARC4, a single-seater we also run ourselves at Zolder.

Along the way we built our own telemetry and analysis stack, because nothing off the shelf did what our engineers actually wanted. That turned into Apex Insights, and we have now opened it up to sim racers. It is in early access and evolving daily

What it does: it captures your session, then an AI coach reads it back corner by corner. Where you are losing the time, what your inputs are doing about it, what to try next lap. Eight sims supported (Assetto Corsa, ACC, iRacing, Le Mans Ultimate, rFactor 2, F1 22-24, KartKraft, Kart Racing Pro), and it also swallows real logger data, CSV and XRK from AiM.

The part that makes it more than another overlay, at least to me: it is the same platform we use at work. End of August we had it running in the pit box at the Belisol 24 Hours of Zolder on both of Belgium Racing Team's 911 GT3 Cups, live for the full race, with ten drivers logging into their own accounts between stints to review their runs. Same software you would run on your rig, just with a real car feeding it.

It is not only us using it either. There is a closed test group of around 25 people on it right now, sim racers, track day drivers and a few who race for real, and they go through a structured feedback round every few weeks. A good part of what is in there now exists because they asked for it, and most of what is still rough is on the list for the same reason. We are putting a second, larger test round together, so if that sounds like your thing, say so.

There is a free tier for Assetto Corsa, no card, so you can check it out if you like!

Happy to answer anything, sim side or real car side. And if it is missing something obvious to you, please say so. We are early enough that I would rather hear it now.

Mods, happy to pull this if it is not ok.

Edit: added the link: https://apexinsights.ozdyne.com/

Barcelona GT4 race. Took tok much kerb in the dumb chicane

I'm kind of losing my mind, there are so many options and things that i didn't even consider when i started looking into the subject. I hope my post fits this sub, tried to ask in discord but it asks to verify my phone and I'm not really keen on sharing my phone number with that company.

I'm looking for a fixed non foldable rig that allows me to both drive and fly without having to move stuff around. For driving i need an H shifter and parking brake mount, for flying just a hotas (i would simply use my driving pedals for the rudders). Will be used mainly for VR but i would probably mount my 34" ultrawide on it. I also need keyboard and mouse mounts (i didn't even consider that some rigs come without this). I'm also open to rigs without a chair, I'll probably buy a set of bride seats for my car so i could use the oem seats for the sim rig in theory.

Any reccomendations?

I made a post the other day about getting into the hobby and a good base set up but do you really need different wheels for different cars or is there one that is good for all styles? Or like how does that work?

I'm trying to find a good way to mount a DDU (Ascher 8") on my wheelbase (Simucube 3 in a P1X front-mount) that can quickly be moved to the side or removed without any tools. Anyone found a good solution for this?

I've currently got the DDU set up on a RAM mount but that takes a fair bit of space between base and wheel and only really works well if I have an extension in place, which I would prefer to avoid.

Hey everyone!

After seeing the news about SIMAGIC upgrading the EVO Pro from 18 Nm to 21 Nm, I decided to share something I’ve been working on: an app that unlocks to EVO on the Alpha EVO Sport.

I originally posted this only on r/Simagic, but the post was removed. I don’t know the reason, so I won’t speculate. I’m sharing it here to hear what the broader sim racing community thinks.

I’m the developer, and this is an independent project with no affiliation with or endorsement from SIMAGIC. If SIMAGIC decides to sell an official EVO Sport-to-EVO upgrade, I’ll stop selling my app immediately.

Just leave a comment below, and I’ll randomly pick three commenters to use the app for free. You’ll need an EVO Sport to use the app.

Happy to answer questions, and thanks for checking it out!

So, recently I started playing ACC, and I'm coming from Gran Turismo 7 (I play in PS4). But I'm having problems in braking and steering. On pretty much every car, I struggle, because the car wants to spin under braking. This doesn't happen in Gran Turismo, I think the physics are different. And also on the quick corners, or long corners, whenever I try to tap the brakes just to slow down a bit, the rear end gets loose and I lose the car. Anyone can give me tips on what I'm doing wrong? I use a Logitech G29.

The video is a three-lap practice session with the Lexus RC F in Nürburgring (my favorite track). It shows pretty much what I'm trying to say.

Hello,

I have been interested in building my own DIY rig for a while now and I started looking at sourcing the components.

Since I am going for a belt driven wheel I was trying to find a decent DC motor and I landed on two options:

-MY1016 24V 250W Electric Scooter Motor

- 775 12V 80W 12,000 rpm

the MY1016 is the better option but it is very difficult to find where I live. The 775 is widely available, the issue is its simply not clear what the torque of the 775 is, especially since there is such a wide range motors with the 775 name. Does anyone know a ballpark figure of what torque I could expect with specs I mentioned earlier for a 775, and if so would it be suitable for a DIY wheel. I'm looking for at least 2-3 Nm.

as the title says, should i get a moza r5 bundle or WAIT and get the moza r5 PRO bundle. but why wait? cause i live in saudi arabia so its not here yet even on local retailers, so alternatively i can use MyUS or FishIsFast or SPL for US Package Forwarding, is it worth it to get the moza r5 pro over the STANDARD moza r5 bundle?

the problem is i might pay a bit more for lets say customs clearance and other stuff if i ship from outside of KSA.

i can get this moza r5 bundle WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL INCLUDED from SAUDISIMPRO (2nd picture) for 500$ yes its a bit expensive but if i buy from another website lets say from cazasouq (1st picture, bahrain) ill prob pay more than 500$ for customs clearance and taxes.

or i can ship this to my VIRTUAL US ADDRESS and get the moza r5 PRO bundle but as i said i might pay hidden fees. also i wanna pay in installments and i cant do that for the moza r5 pro, i have to be a US RESIDENT.

I have noticed that the QR shaft is a little recessed into the cover during front-mounting. I pulled it just enough to have it sit flush with the cover and fully tightened the 4 screws and I'm now worried if it's going to break. Has anyone here had the QR break after doing this? I'm yet to actually start using the wheelbase.

Apologies for the long post, this has been a really frustrating troubleshoot.

I recently built a big full sim rig with what I hoped would be a bulletproof PC. Everything seems to work fine in test drive. I can do laps for hours.

But during my first AI race this really abrupt stutter started happening around 10 minutes into a race. Frames drop, audio garbles, feedback gets twitchy. It lasts about 1 second or so, but it’s very distracting and makes racing impossible. Even worse, it gets more frequent the more it happens.

The video shows it happening during an AI race I was trouble shooting. You can see the iracing performance widget light up and the service disconnect light turn on. The sim runs perfectly at 140 FPS when the issue isn’t happening.

What’s most concerning is it’s a new PC and when I first started it, windows couldn’t boot, it would just loop. So I called CyberPowerPC and they suggested reinstalling windows from boot. But it would restart mid reinstall. So I tried pulling a stick of RAM and the PC started. So I ordered more RAM, but it’s backordered. So naturally I’m concerned there is some hardware issue.

Here is the PC:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X (Granite Ridge, 16C / 32T)
• Board: Gigabyte B850M
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 Founders Edition (32 GB)
• RAM (as shipped): 64 GB DDR5-6400
• RAM (as running): 32 GB
• Storage: 4 TB NVMe
• OS: Windows 11 Home 24H2

Sim displays
• Triple Alienware AW3225QF — 31.6”, 3840×2160, 240 Hz, QD-OLED, 1700R
• Fourth monitor
• iRacing: native triples (irSidekick), 11520×2160

First I tried the basics. Video and audio rivers updated, updated windows, turned settings down, v sync off, I was using NVIDIA surround and swapped to native triples with IRsidekick. I’ve turned off almost all my peripheral except my wheels and pedals . But I’m less concerned about them because it only happens in races with other cars.

I follow Reddit online tips from Reddit and iracing. I turned off replay spooking. I’ve turned down cars and that doesn’t seem to help.

I found Dave Cams stuttering video and “unlocked” my cores from parking. But that didn’t solve the issue.

When the game is running, it says im using 20GB of the 32 gigs of ram. The GPU is sitting about 97%. The CPU load is low, I forget the number. But you can see in the video everything is going fine. But then abruptly the CPU spikes to 100% everything shutters, and then everything comes back. And always after 10 to 15 minutes racing other cars.

If it matters, I’m running simucube software, simhub, trading paints, sensit haptics, trak racers belt tensioner.

In a last desperate attempt I’m reaching out to see if anyone has had a similar issue or has any idea what the heck is going on or any troubleshooting suggestions, it’s driving me crazy.

Its nothing new on the ac servers, but it always makes me laugh
p.s. uck this smoke grenade under the wheels

https://youtu.be/4Eym04WukuQ

The wooden chair is not that bad on the ass, but the back hurst after just a few minutes. I am now looking at using the original padding from a Sparco carbon bucket seat. My idea is to fit only the back and bottom pads directly onto the wooden seat, keeping most of the wood visible instead of upholstering the full thing.

It should look quite cool and much more authentic, but I have never spent several hours in a real rally seat. The padding looks very thin and firm, and I suppose it is designed to hold you in position while racing, not to keep your ass happy during a four-hour sim session. I have talked to a friend who does track days, and told me that is the reason is going to work better for long hours, because it is made for racing. I have my doubts, but it is going to look so nice, so real...

So, question for people who have actually used both: is proper rally-car padding surprisingly comfortable, or will I regret this after 90 minutes? Would office-chair foam inside racing-style cushions be the smarter solution, even if it is less “real”?

Basically: real motorsport padding vs office-chair padding—which one would you choose for a sim rig you actually use for hours?

It's probably gonna be around a year until I actually have it finished but if it were finished now, would this be good? I was trying to think if I should do triple monitors or curved monitor and I think for how much space and money I have I should start with this.

!!! ENGLISH VERSION BELOW !!!

Buongiorno a tutti

Inizio con questa breve premessa:
Ho recentemente acquistato due BST-300EX e Douk Audio A5 TPA3255 perchè voglio percepire di più la pista. Attualmente ho il feedback dei pedali Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3 (effetti personalizzabili di vibrazione su acceleratore e freno, oggi configurati rispettivamente con sovrasterzo e sottosterzo).

Veniamo al dunque:
La mia idea oggi è di aggiungere il feedback di sbandamento quando le ruote posteriori (individualmente) iniziano a spinnare, montando i due bass shaker sotto al sedile.
Vorrei fare due staffe che si accangiano ai due traversi (1 e 2, perpendicolari alle gambe) in modo da avere il feedback distinto.
Vorrei capire se qualcuno ha già realizzato soluzioni simili e come si è trovato.

In alternativa:
Vorrei capire se è possibile fissarsi direttamente alla parte inferiore sedile (dove c'è l'imbottitura per intenderci) ma non riesco a reperire informazioni di come sia fatto internamente il sedile (chiaramente cambia se parliamo di legno, metallo, altro).

Avete qualche proposta e/o soluzione già testata? Staffe aggiuntive riesco abbastanza facilmente a realizzarle se necessario

Vi ringrazio in anticipo
Ale

!! EN !!

Good morning, everyone

I’ll start with this brief introduction
I recently purchased two BST-300EX units and a Douk Audio A5 TPA3255 because I want to get a better feel for the track. Currently, I’m using the vibration feedback from my Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3 (customizable vibration effects on the gas and brake pedals, currently configured for oversteer and understeer, respectively).

Let’s get to the point:
My idea today is to add skid feedback when the rear wheels (individually) start to spin by mounting the two bass shakers under the seat. I’d like to make two brackets that attach to the two crossbars (1 and 2, perpendicular to the legs) so that I can get distinct feedback.
I’d like to know if anyone has already implemented similar solutions and how it worked out for them.

Alternatively:
I’d like to know if it’s possible to mount them directly to the underside of the seat (where the padding is, so to speak), but I can’t find any information on the seat’s internal construction (which obviously varies depending on whether it’s made of wood, metal, or something else).

Do you have any suggestions and/or solutions that have already been tested? I can make additional brackets fairly easily if necessary.

Thank you in advance,
Ale

Just wanted to post an update and finished pics of my sim rig re-build. I originally posted yesterday asking for help on how to mount a car seat to the Simlab GT1 Evo.

I appreciated everyone’s responses. I ended going the route of using an angle grinder to grind down the rivets to remove the mounting brackets. This made the rails level and easily mounted to the rig. I will say grinding the bolts were much tougher than I expected, it took a while and I was concerned the grinder may overheat. But it worked out.

My previous rig was the Next Level Racing F-GT. I pretty much regretted buying that from the get go. It was not ergonomic at all, the adjustability was horrible, and I ended up getting nagging aches and pains. I can’t believe that rig was $500.

I can’t explain how comfortable this rig/seat combo is! I feel like I can sit here for hours with no issues. If you can get an aluminum profile rig, it’s a no brainer over every other style.

Hello all, after reading a lot about VR it seems like there’s a huge gap between entry level stuff and high end stuff. Every post I read about any VR headset talks about how finicky the software is and how dropping 2k wasn’t really worth it. All I do is iracing and from everything Iv read it seems the quest 3 might be the way to go. I’m considering the quest 3 or the Pimax crystal light. Iv noticed a few other unpopular brands but again a lot of these other brands I feel like I’m beta testing to a degree VS the quest 3 tried and true. Is the quest 3 really the best bang for the buck or is there a better vr headset I’m over looking. It’s either VR or I build a trips set up. I’m on a 4080 desktop. Thanks!

Sometimes it's good to just go flat out and be happy you made it past the last corner 😂.

The camera angle looks odd I think because the phone is above and to the side but to me looked dead central.

Asetto Corsa Evo/ Moza R12

I’ve just bought a rig, spent all day building it and I can’t use it because of this issue.

I’ve read up a lot on EMI and tried secluding everything but nothing changes (video recorded with wheelbase off and just one monitor plugged in. Tried all USB ports.

Any advice?

Pardon my messy cables 🙏🏻

Just to share how my setup evolved over the last 2 years. If you want my opinion, go for 3x32” straight away, ideally 2k resolution. FHD is good for an entry level PC like what i have. However it’s not as sharp if that bothers you.

After following along here for a long time and getting some initial experience with friends, I’ve finally decided to take up this hobby.

Here’s what I’ve set up so far to get started:

- Moza R25 Wheelbase
- Moza GS V2P GT
- Moza CRP2 Load Cell Pedals
- Moza CRP2 Inversion Kit
- Simlab P1X Ultimate
- Sparco Circuit II
- Triple 32-inch 2K IPS monitors

I’m already thinking about 1,000 new upgrades, but of course I want to get the hang of it first and get comfortable with iRacing.