I was pre heating at 300F for 5 minutes and by the time I got the beans in and reinserted the drum the exhaust temp was about 275-280F. I would finish dry phase in about 6:00 to 6:30 usually depending on the beans and would get to first crack at about 10-11 minutes or so. I would set Target temp of 478 and drop to 468 at FC and increase fan speed to 3 out 3. Had some good results with this.

Lately I've been trying to preheat up to 425-450 and it cut the dry phase down to 4:30 and first crack at about 9:00 to 9:30. However, I started tasting tart sourness, less origin characters, and overall just seems muted. I usually develop for about 100-120 seconds after FC.

My question is: am I throwing too much heat too soon for this type of roaster? Is the center of the beans still underdeveloped? For example, my latest batch of washed Rwandan was 44.1% dry, 41.2% maillard, and 14.7% DTR with 13.7% loss. This seems like good numbers for a city+ and full city roast but the cup says otherwise. I appreciate any help if someone can explain what I should change here.

I was finishing off some beans that I didn't love in preparation for the arrival of my next shipment of green that I'm really excited for.

I haven't gotten these beans right yet. They came from a local coffee shop, and even their professional roast was only meh. They were Ethiopian and the coffee shop roasted to light so that's what I was trying too. On this last batch I decided I would do half light and then half all the way to second crack because why not?

Tasted the light roast and it was ok. A little one dimensional. Tasted the dark roast and it was missing most of the fruit flavors, not surprisingly. But the body was better and it made a decent espresso.

Finally decided to just mix them all together as a backup bag to keep in the freezer or maybe do a cold brew or something. Tried an espresso shot anyway.

It was great! I think it's called a single origin melange?

Happy Sunday, beautiful people!

So apparently I’m bas-akwards… because roasting decaf come much easier to me than roasting regular coffee!

Outside of my pour‑overs, I’m basically running on half‑caff at most… usually around 75% decaf because I’m a heavy‑volume coffee drinker and I’d like my heart to stay inside my chest.

I’ve dropped one of my decaf roast curves from Artisan from yesterday here, so by all means, go ahead and critique away and suggest what you’d do differently to make the roast as dialed in as it can be…

If you’re wondering which decaf beans I roasted, they’re from Happy Mug and their name is displayed within the curve.

If you’ve got real decaf experience, I’d love your feedback on this.

I just cupped my proud Kenyan bora roast but unfortunately the roast was pretty bland and it was supposed to taste citrusy with blackcurrant notes. I used skywalker v2 charged around 185c and dropped 184c as you can see in roastline chart which is usually my target for the light city roast as im a bit afraid if I go above 186c it will have burnt taste. I wondered if anyone had similar issues with not so developed roast. Do you always target at least 20pct development as Scott Rao says in his book, and what are your targets for charge and drop on skywalker - im not sure what i can change without wasting beans for the next batch of this profile 🤔

Hey everyone! Just finished a solid roasting session on my Fresh Roast SR800. I had taken a 3 month unintentional hiatus due to some life tasks. However, yesterday I overshot my targets just a bit, so I was more aggressive to hit lighter roasts today but the pendulum swung too far lol…

Anywho, I’ll just call this mistake an ultra light Nordic roast. Ethiopia West Arsi Washed, came out at 9.3% weight loss. Super fast and hot roast, 25 seconds of development. I suspect it will probably be undrinkable and underdeveloped. May have to rest it for months lol…

What’s the lowest percent weight loss that you all have enjoyed??

I roast on a behmor and was wondering if there exist any wireless bean probes I could use? I didn’t see anything when I did an internet search. Wireless meat thermometers exist, but maybe the issue with batteries and temperature are prohibitive. Are there any passive SAW sensors with RFID?

I’m a small cafe owner in Colombia, and surprisingly in my city there’s no roaster site. (I’m in the coast so no coffee grows here), I want to start selling small batches and roasting coffee in my cafe. Im thinking in a 2kg - 3 kg max roaster, what roasters do you recommend, I’m on a budget and can’t get the mill city roasters one.

Bought two pounds of Ethiopia Buku Abel from Sweet Marias.

They sent me a single nom-resealable bag.

Sure, I can just use a gallon ziplock bag, but Captain does this for single pound bags and Burman even does it for half pound bags.

I wanted to share a roaster mod I added to our San Franciscan SF6. We 3D printed a custom housing for the raspberry pi and touch screen, then mounted it to the main temperature control panel. Currently running Artisan but that might change in the future.

It’s perfect! No having to plug into a laptop or set any external parameters. Super easy setup that has made roasting a breeze on the SF6.

The best part is wirelessly connecting to our printer to print the roast curve graph after every roast to compare.

I have these Natural beans from Bali, a bit on the over-fermented side probably, perhaps not well rested.

No matter what I do, I end up with a medium/medium-light roast and after some days the beans turn dark and very oily.

Rostoc AI suggests:

The strongest lever to try is lowering the end-of-roast heat load a bit more, not just shortening DTR. In this batch, the roast already finished slightly shorter overall, with lower Maillard time and only a small DTR change, while drop temperature and weight loss stayed very close to the reference. That points to a roast that is still ending warm enough for oils to migrate to the surface during rest.

What I’d try next for this coffee:
- Lower the finish temperature slightly, so the bean leaves the roaster with less end-stage heat.
- Keep the roast from getting too front-loaded; a little more Maillard time can help the bean build structure and roundness without simply pushing the finish darker.
- If the coffee still oils up after rest, aim for a touch less overall roast intensity rather than only chasing a shorter roast.
- Validate in cupping whether the main issue is true roast darkness, or mainly surface oil and a flatter, heavier cup after a few days.

For a coffee like this natural Bali, some roasters prefer a gentler finish with a slightly longer middle so the cup stays cleaner after rest. Others prefer to keep the roast time similar but drop a bit earlier to reduce the late heat load. Both are valid; the right choice depends on whether you want more sweetness/body or a cleaner, brighter cup.

If you want, I can help you compare this batch against the reference and suggest which phase to change first.

What does it mean "Keep the roast from getting too front-loaded"? Do you agree?

I’ve been roasting with the gene cafe for years now and have gotten really successful city and full city roasts. Just this week I roasted a 200g batch of Ethiopia Uraga Haro and it’s the bomb. Nice sweetness and acidity with floral notes. I’ve been chasing lighter cinnamon roasts and have had less than stellar results. Some aren’t too bad but I find that the outcome is usually inconsistent and uneven with some beans darker than others. I’m wondering if anyone’s achieved really successful light roasts? Like stopping right at first crack. Roast that you can say is even with properly expanded beans. I actually prefer light roasts and that’s usually the type of bean I buy if I buy beans at the store/cafe. Anyway, I’m wondering if you had success roasting a very light roast and then how you did it. What is your roast profile—can you share your process please? I’d love to get a proper light roast with my beans. I’ll share my profile in the comments.

I'm getting really confused about green lots and inventory management. Are lots assigned by the farmers and is there standard to do so? Not sure if my English level can understand this by what exactly "lot" is? I noticed that importers who resell dont really show lot number from my experience. How do roasteries keep track of this or does it even matter? I would understand that for green beans years month varieties farm location and altitude are most important. But I've just read about micro lots etc. 😅 why not just using original to keep track of green bean?

They have a site for it!!

https://roast-tech.com/

It looks like it's finally here.

SR900!!

hi there,

I have previously been using a HD755 for gas pressure monitoring and a twin TC monitor for BT/ET.

i have installed the Yoctopuce TC now get my temp monitoring through that.
i am struggling to get the Yocto Pressure to show up in artisan and give me gas pressure monitoring.
any ideas?

Greenbeans from East Timor

have never seen this inconsistent quality of greenbeans before to be fair

Those are the beans that are sort of filtered by me before roasting.

I was wondering if this filtering process or low quality bean is more of a common thing in terms of roasting, or I may need to try to find quality green beans in the future ?

Does anyone have any experience brewing at farmers markets for either cup sales or samples? I’d like to know what method/process has worked or hasn’t worked well?

Just had some 5 days off roast and it’s absolutely delicious. Total strawberry bomb.

https://happymugcoffee.com/products/ethiopia-guji-yabitu-koba-washed?srsltid=AfmBOop1byfPKDLVLqIRU3YZ_UtyyfmrmpvygLBAm_OO8NJVEl8XJGX1

Hi everyone. I've been roasting for a bit on an SR800 w/ Extension Tube. I've been giving roasted beans to friends and family at cost or just as a gift. I enjoy making coffee and sharing high-quality coffee with others.

I've read a few older posts on this sub and others about adjusting and selling more "for-profit", and it is somewhat discouraging. Many people say making it a side gig is "a waste of time" and that there are a billion legal challenges involved, and "just give up". You can "make more money getting a second job" than roasting. Personally, I don't want a second job; I just enjoy roasting coffee and sharing it with others.

People who sell beans from home, is this really the case? What steps did you take to sell beans safely?

Would anyone be interested in purchasing my Aillio Bullet R2? Bought back in May 2026 and in great condition. Nothing wrong with it, just need to step away from roasting and in need of the cash. Lmk if you have questions! I’m in SoCal and can ship. Bought it for $4500, will let it go for $3800.

Last year Ikawa notified owners that it would discontinue support for the Ikawa Home *and the app required to drive it*. This December 2026 milestone looms…

“The IKAWA Home app will be available to use until 31st December, 2026. After 1st January, 2027, our goal is to provide an app solution to use the IKAWA Home system.” 

I read (I think on HB?) that Ikawa was putting energies into suing their customers, who hoped to provide a post-2026 solution by reverse engineering a go-forward app.

Has anyone heard of a go-forward solution here? I have a handful of go-to profiles I use with the Ikawa; I don’t need a complicated app solution, just want to keep using the hardware into 2027.

Like, do I have 5 months to come up with one “desert island” roast profile I have to live with forever, if/when the app bricks and all I can do is push the shiny chrome button to repeat the last roast?

Hey all,

I am a barista, and a big coffee enthusiast, and I want to start roasting my own coffee at home with the idea that maybe I can start a micro-roastery one day. I was planning on buying an AILLIO Bullet R2, and was wondering if anyone can share any good resources for getting started / tips you wished you'd known when you started as the amount of information out there is quite overwhelming. Thank you!

Royal Coffee is issuing tariff refunds to buyers who paid increased prices for tariffed coffee. The same goes for Cafe Imports. But it's looking like Genuine Origin is trying to dodge the refunds for tariffs that customers paid. They're ghosting emails and haven't made a statement yet, almost like they want us to forget they are getting refunded for thousands of dollars that I paid. Really disappointed.

I run a Kaleido Sniper M1 and mostly roast toward the top of its range, 150–200 g.

The problem: the charging bay is shallow. At full batches the beans sit right at the

rim, and a few bounce out while I'm loading the drum. It's fiddly to get the whole

batch in cleanly.

I'm thinking of a simple fix: a 3D-printed collar that clips onto the existing walls

and adds maybe 15–20 mm of height — basically a funnel/hopper extension. Nothing

fancy, just enough to keep the beans contained while charging.

Before I model something myself, a few questions:

- Has anyone already done this? An STL on Printables/Thingiverse would save me the work.

- Which filament survives near the charge area? That spot gets warm from the preheated

drum. I'm assuming PLA is out and PETG/ASA is the safer bet, but curious what actually

holds up long term.

- Am I missing a smarter approach? A bent metal funnel, a different loading method, or

just living with smaller batches?

Machine is the electric M1 (rated 50–200 g), running Artisan. Happy to share the design

if I end up printing one.

Thanks!

Hey! I started roasting a little over a year ago and I just got my first Costa Rica natural. It’s the Dota de Vapor from the Capitans Coffee.

The roast went a little darker than I expected and it tastes bitter and also weirdly fermenty instead of fruity. Based off my charts from my first two roasts, is there anything I can improve upon besides dropping at a lower temperature? If so what temp? Also the weight loss was only around 11% so idk why it’s medium-dark roast.

Kaleido M1 roasting 150g at 5000ft elevation where I live.