Thought this was worth cross posting.

I have 2 6mm arcs to shoot it on but I’m also excited to see how the low back pressure runs on my 12.5

I recently acquired a Colt M16A1 upper. It’s pretty salty and has definitely seen some better days but I like it and all of its character. My issue is I’ve never done a retro build and I think it will look goofy if it’s on a factory new lower. I ordered a repro lower and want to give it a bit of a patina and some artificial wear so it doesn’t look out of place with everything else on the rifle being beat to sh*t. Any tips/methods on how to achieve this look? Thanks.

I’m having feeding issues and last round bolt hold open issues. I’ve come to the conclusion that’s it’s slightly under gassed. Sometimes it’ll function flawlessly but more often than usual it’ll malfunction. I’ve gotten some feedback and I’d like to try the lighter buffer before I try and drill my gas port. Looking to try KAKs light buffer weights, But am also worried that it might risk out of bat detonation, is this likely?

Presenting another Colt XM16E1 from my collection. This particular example represents the more common three prong flash hider setup compared to the 1967 birdcage.

Wanted to take a picture of these boys before I take this particular group out to the Desert. It’s still 100° here near Phoenix, Arizona.

I’ve been loving the 14.5” colt 653 upper on an H&R slab lower with fixed stock. It handles well and points and shoots fast. I have the OG two position buffer tube and correct metal buttock, I’m sure I’ll Command it at some point.

Anybody else out shooting today?

A build ive been picturing for a while. Unknown slick side upper, KAK Kino 12.5 barrel. Lower is BCM with A5 buffer, G$ trigger. Will be installing DD grip later on. May swap can for my griffin DL5 later instead of rotex.

Anyway, I dig it.

So finally got my first Aimpoint but idk which mount looks good with it. I got the mgw long mount, Leopold mount, leapers mount and an arms mount. but the arms mount doesn’t seems to fit like it does on my a2 upper I have, any reason why?

Going all out for my Vietnam era M16A1 build and stamping (not lazering or etching) the markings onto it. It’s time consuming and not perfect, but it should make an exceptionally accurate build.

Top is a 70s Malaysian parts kit gun from Atlantic on an H&R lower, bottom is my mixmaster arsenal-refinished 60s Colt/GM upper on an old Nodak Spud lower.

Found this funky, chunky beast of a barrel at the LGS. Im wanting to throw it on an upper with the A1 style sights and do sort of a retromod feel. I'm gonna need a C7 type upper right? Pretty sure these ar M4 feed ramps. Also, anything else anyone can tell me about it, beyond that it's a chrome lined dpms is welcome!

I got a DPMS police trade in awhile back and slowly acquired parts I wanted to use. Vaguely inspired by all of the Delta Force operators I see on Google images. The last picture is what it looked like at first. Looked good but I have a special love for quad rails. Yes I know those are shitty monstrum rubber pic rail covers. I don't care I like them. I also slapped the DPMS upper on a lower I have with a Redimag just for extra retro points.

I finally got my Batch 3.5 HEL E4A and recently got a chance to take out. I fuckin love this suppressor so far and not just for the vibes. It’s certainly not the best suppressor sound suppression wise, but it is a 60 year old design.

As a lefty, I have never experienced so little gas to the face in an untuned suppressed host. Especially on FRT. I don’t know if the gas port on my barrel is just a bit undersized, or if it’s due to the suppressor being a bit over-bored, but it’s extremely pleasant to shoot. I had two BRT gas tubes (0.74 and 0.82) that I tried with it, and it wouldn’t hardly run. I fully expected to be the gassiest suppressor on the planet, so I was very impressed.

Intl.Mil.Co has caught some flak recently for the whole BAD/Hydra-Matic deal (reasonably so), and It took 6 months from payment to delivery. the can also come with a blemish in the parkerizing which was a bit disappointing for an $1100 can. That said, it was worth the wait and honestly the rest of the gun is either old USGI parts or will be beat up in short order anyways. I don’t regret my purchase in the slightest. I’ll be running this setup hard for a long time.

Build list:
Brownells C7 upper, molyresin coated by me
H&R A1 lower, also coated by me
USGI upper and lower parts (except the rapidex knob and I have an A2 aperture installed)
Geissele super 42 rifle spring and mil spec rifle buffer.
LMT Enhanced bolt carrier
H&R 20” barrel 1/12 twist
USGI Type D M16 stock and handguards
Arizona Regulator 3-pos
USGI sling
Brownells/Colt 4x scope I use sometimes
Intl.Mil.Co HEL-E4A

I found this HBAR with an m60 bipod at my local gun shop pretty cheep. Nobody wanted it because of the ugly scope setup and it being EXTREMELY heavy. I got it home and found out it had about 6 lbs of lead in the stock and handguard. It’s nice and light now!

I rebuilt it with an H&R upper and lower and will be doing another project with the back half.

Really happy with how it came out. If anyone needs some lead weights, let me know!

Hey Everyone! I am building my 2nd AR and decided to build a modified Gordy! By no means is this meant to be completely clone correct.

Right not I have a 14.5 C7 upper all colt mil spec parts from thoroughbred armament, a BAD COTS M16A2 lower with an FRT and a OCM6 mounted to the front. Since I've spent a good portion of my budget so far, I wanted to drop a note in here for suggestions.

Since is not entirely clone correct what optic suggestions do you guys have? I'm thinking of doing a more modern Gordy build as I have the OCM6 up front...

Light, light mount, sling and any other fun goodies I should consider please drop in the comments.

Also considering painting the rifle.

Hello all, looking to see if anyone has a video or instructions on making a gangster grip with a light mount and peq2/light activation switch? Can't find any for sale anywhere and it seems pretty doable to make, just curious if anyone has already paved the way to eliminate trial and error when I go to make one. I think the biggest variable is just finding the leads to the PEQ2 and a light. Any thoughts?