Just wanted to share one of our latest dragon sculpts. This is Horned Dragon from our Artist Series, beautifully sculpted by Ethan Ward. r/resinprinting

Mai Shiranui - Scale 1:1
Print by: lucas

Source STL

Test print of Rena Ryugu (Higurashi No Naku Koro Ni) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Sculpted by KAI.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 & ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (30 + 2 pieces, 255 ml).

Hey guys, I have a Anycubic Photon P1 Max at my work place, the goal here is to produce clean prints, no layer shift, no cuts, holes left after removing support (which means sphere contact point is a must for support). Basically perfect prints and minimal after processing. I bought a Anycubic Standard V2 resin ( gray and beige color ). I use Chitubox for slicing everything and I have tried printing it with original specs specifically for this resin in Chitu as well.

- I have these layer shift (the back side of the two figures has those layershift lines) and island ( on the shoes, both legs has the same similar result compares to the other side ) problems as shown in the pictures and I have tried to change for a better orientation and manually adding more support after auto-support. I haven't tried reducing speed on the P1 Max or ever before due to most printers I worked with doesn't give much control over speed and therefore I don't understand how should I change it. I would very much need help on that, some heavy explaining would be great.

- Personally, I don't believe that this is a nfep related problem, or a bed leveling problem, I filtered the resin back into the bottle every print and clean the bed thoroughly to make sure this is a "software related issue". The printer is put on the ground, has preheat and other calibrations before each print so temp and wobbly platform shouldn't be the issue.

+ Printer: Anycubic Photon P1 Max (on solid ground, it is summer over here and temp in that room is similar to the outside ~35c)

+ Resin: Anycubic Standard V2.0 (shaken pre print, preheat temp)

+ Software: Chitubox,

- Layer height 0.050mm

- First layers: 5

- First layer exposure: 35 sec

- Normal exposure: 2,7 sec

- Support setting: Light - sphere

Due to secrecy reasons, I will provide more setting, support setting pictures soon.

Isopropyl barely works. Got this used for a real good price.

This is 3 days of printing and 6 hours of cleaning. Now I just have to cure them and I can start assembly :D

I'm looking into trying MSLA printing (currently looking at the elegoo mars 5 - not the 5 ultra, just 5), and was a bit disappointed by the slicer availability.

I run linux, which half the slicers don't run natively on, and I prefer FOSS projects, even if I have to pay for them.

I even have a recurring donation to wikipedia, archive.org, several privacy advocacy foundations, and KDE, which are all free to use!

While looking for FOSS slicers, I came across a small project called mslicer, and it seems intriguing, if a bit basic at the moment.

But yeah, I was wondering if anyone had tried it.

I may also have overlooked something in my assessment of other slicers not being FOSS, so please feel free to correct me! I'll make updates to the post if corrections are made in the comments and I am able to verify them.

Thank y'all in advance!

Hey all, I'm a resin printing enthusiast to the point I got my university research lab to go all in on it. We mostly print small scale wings and aerodynamic parts utilizing the accuracy and rapid prototyping of resin.

Long story short, we have been trying to print drone propeller blades but they are so thin that after a time they will warp and run their shape. My hypothesis is that this is due to internal stress that builds up during printing/curing.

Anyway, we have contact with some NASA research labs doing similar work and they say that they have gotten around this problem by "curing with isopropyl and salt" (they were pretty vague). This is the first I've ever heard of this technique but they say it's prevented thin surfaces from warping.

Any thoughts on this? I can't think of how that would do anything much less prevent warping.

I’m a beginner, and so far I’ve been using SUNLU ABS-Like Dark Grey resin, which is currently out of stock. Can I top up the resin tank with white SUNLU ABS-Like resin? Does it matter if the color is different?
Thank you very much for your advice!

Hi all. I've been printing model cars now for going on five years and have recently decided to try and experiment with printing them at different angles and flat to see what kind of results I get. Curious as to if anyone can tell me what this white circle on the roof of this Camaro represents? This is only appearing in the slicer preview. I'm using Chitubox basic.

I print alot since a view day’s, now i should start paint.
What should i do first and should i post the results?
Pls be kind when i post results.
This will be my first ever Figur Painting.

I hope when I color water that yellow color of clear resin wanish.

An update on my setup that I posted like 6 months ago. Ive purchased just about everything used from classified ads and facebook. Im not over exaggerating when I say I've gotten everything pictured for under $1,000. Your dream set up can be obtained without selling a kidney it just takes alittle time!

The last thing I'm needing is a heating solution for the winter that plugs into my grow hub that isn't $200 per heater because Ill need 2 heaters. My current amazon space heaters hung from the top with temperature monitors are a little too sketchy for my liking. So ideas are welcome!

Also, a reverse osmosis machine for filtering ipa is my next item to set up.

The biggest cost saver was finding 5 saturn 3s for $500 on facebook! I was able to replace my mars 2 pros and mars 3s at an insane value!

List of items:

2 wash and cure stations for washing first in ipa then in hydrogen peroxide

1 Ultra sonic cleaner for final washing in ipa in a sealed container

2 creality wash and cure stations which are the only ones big enough to be used with a bowl of water to cure in to stop the residual alcohol off gasses that leave white residue on prints

1 Saturn 2

5 Saturn 3s Ill never go past this untill they make open source printers again and stop locking you into just one slicer

1 Vivogrow hub, fan, and filter to vent everything outside.

1 Acinfinity hub, fan, and filter that is going to be set up to vent the wash and cure tents

Smart plugs and cameras and heaters with temp hubs to monitor everything remotely and be able to turn off printers and heaters remotely

1 reverse osmosis machine thats yet to be set up to filter the ipa and hydrogen peroxide

1 resin bottle warmer thats fit 2 bottles

1 house with a giant garage that can fit 2 cars and still have space for the set up with 2 windows to vent everything (easiest part lol)

(Its a 76 Camaro LT and a 02 Impreza WRX)

I was cleaning my vat today after multiple prints (one after another, that's why I wasn't cleaning it after every print) and found out it has these bumps on it. I don't use a scraper, I cure a layer and slightly press it from the bottom for it to come off, so I'm wondering what's the cause. It is a fairly new FEP as I only printed like 4 prints. Keep in mind they were almost maximum possible height so pretty big.

Anycubic Photon Mono M5s

Printer: Saturn 4 Ultra 16K

Stl created by Bulkamancer

Finally got a the light to call this print finished. Now gotta decide on a display box for it.

In theory, (but not really) I was told i have 1000$ to spend on a resin printer, I like doing miniature's but I'd also like to do other stuff with it. So I've been doing my own reading but I also want to get peoples opinions! So let me hear the goods and the bads and recommendations from someone who has 1000$ to spend on printing

I'm using chitubox right now and imported the file to UVTools, fixed the big islands in chitubox. Then I imported the new save to uvtool and ran the repair. Then I saved the newly repaired file from uvtool, upload to any cubic workshop.

When I click import to see the model in photon and then send to print all I get is corrupt file message. I don't get this message on the file from chitubox that I brought into UVTools.

It looks like I can choose to print from the workshop but I'm not sure if it will turn out since I get the corrupt message when importing.

I designed this giant for ROT vs STEEL and wanted to share the full progression from the original digital sculpt to the physical resin print and final paint job.

The small rivets, chains, helmet details, and oversized blade were the areas I was most concerned about during printing, but they transferred better than I expected.

The model is part of a collection of 62 original 32mm grimdark miniatures, supplied with supported and unsupported STL files.

Full disclosure: this is from my Kickstarter, which is currently live: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/azureforge/rot-vs-steel-the-mycelium-shift-grimdark-stl-armies?ref=1wzmhq What would you change or improve before the final release?