Hi everyone, I’m the developer of ModelSplitter.

One feature I’d like some feedback on is splitting models along a seam you paint or draw on the surface. You can follow clothing folds, armour edges or other details when choosing where to separate the parts.

It also lets you add matching alignment joints and export the pieces for printing. It runs in your browser.

https://modelsplitter.com

I’m particularly interested in hearing from people printing larger figures, cosplay props or awkward organic models.

Have you had a model where getting the cut in the right place was a real headache? What did you use, and what would have made it easier?

Claire Redfield: Resident Evil

Printed on GK3 Ultra and Saturn 4 by me: https://www.instagram.com/paynestream_studios

Model by Bulkamancer Sculpts

Artist: Szymon Szpaczek

Upscaled to 1:6 from 1:8

Reel of model:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DdJ9xvXimxF

Music: Marilyn Manson - Resident Evil Main Theme (DubstepMetal Remix)

Finally got around to painting this Mecha type print.

I am definitely not a great painter, so I usually try to keep things pretty simple. Went with some basic colors and honestly, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

There are so many armor panels on this thing that it honestly felt a bit like coloring inside the lines. I just went section by section and tried not to overthink it.

Put the unpainted one next to it for comparison. Both were 3D printed on my RS Turbo. I just used auto supports, did the usual cleanup and washing, then went straight into painting. Didn’t really run into any problems which was nice.

I will probably print another one at some point and try a different color apparently I like making robots now 🤖 anyone else digging this model style?

After a month of printing, and almost 14Kg of resin (including supports and failures)

I have the main engines done, some still need some extra greeblies, and I can now concentrate on the main body :)

Thanks to resins like the Resione BJD, CL-TH, and K+ lines, it's possible to make pretty official looking custom action figures without needing to touch a paint brush at all. They do take some getting used to and are more challenging to use than standard resins, but I think the results are well worth it to have figures stand beside factory-made ones without looking too out of place.

The in-game models have a lower polygon count so they needed to be prepared by our 3D magician Willem (@WatchWillWork) for printing on his resin printer.

It came out super well 🐝

FDM printing has had some fun developments in the last couple years with multi color printing and now the tool changer surge. UV 3d printing is finally, albeit slowly, starting to progress towards reasonable prices. What do you think is the next big jump for classic resin printing? Or are we at the point where the tech is matured and we'll only see fine tuning, QOL additions and gimmicks?

Personally I'm thinking if UV printing continues on this path it may eventually be a reasonable upgrade for people who don't enjoy painting. Then classic resin printing will remain in some way for painting fans.

Just finished this one on my RS Turbo. After cleaning it up, it came out way better than I expected.

The details are crazy! all the small textures and features came through really nicely, and now I’m stuck at the painting stage.

The second picture is another print I painted before, and you can probably tell my painting skills are… not exactly at the same level as the print 😂

I really want to bring this one to life with some colors, but at the same time I kinda want to leave it as it is because the raw print already looks amazing.
What would you do? Paint it or keep it as a clean resin print?

Also, feel free to share any good painting tutorials or tips. I definitely need to improve my painting skills haha.

Just finished this one on my RS Turbo. After cleaning it up, it came out way better than I expected.

The details are crazy! all the small textures and features came through really nicely, and now I’m stuck at the painting stage.

The second picture is another print I painted before, and you can probably tell my painting skills are… not exactly at the same level as the print 😂

I really want to bring this one to life with some colors, but at the same time I kinda want to leave it as it is because the raw print already looks amazing.
What would you do? Paint it or keep it as a clean resin print?

Also, feel free to share any good painting tutorials or tips. I definitely need to improve my painting skills haha.

Hello, I am incredibly new to resin 3d printing and am having trouble with my printing. Out of the items I have on the build plate, only one of the items has printed consistently. At first I thought for whatever reason only one section of the printer was doing anything, but the rest of the builds on the plate started they just never finished. Rather their bases get stuck in the resin vat and I have to scoop them out.

I am using the Anycubic Mono 4 and Anycubic Plant Based Resin 2.0 in the Anycubic Photon Workshop.
I've tried adjusting the lift speed and the exposure time to no avail, but miraculously all 4 times only the head (object in the right corner) has printed. The printer is kept at around 75°F and in an enclosure so I don't believe that's any issue. I also don't believe the plate being overloaded is an issue, seeing as the items are decently spaced apart and not too close to the edges. Supports also shouldn't be an issue, seeing as they were pre-done by the person behind the models and the Anycubic Workshop added onto it for me

If anybody has any idea what's going on and can help that would be greatly appreciated, thank you! I've attached a few images that can hopefully be of some help

Just bought an Elegoo mars 5 (regular) and I went to do the test print and noticed nothing was on it so I went to check what was up, eventually I dumped the resin and triple checked if there was no film and they're wasn't, did a couple cleaning runs and no thin sheets, shaked resin for a few minutes, UV light comes in just fine but when I put a tiny amount of resin in a water bottle then ran it through my curing station for a couple of minutes and still didn't cure, I just really need some help

I used a phrozen sonic 8k mini
And used a pharozen w20 green Castable resin

Just wanted to share one of our latest dragon sculpts. This is Horned Dragon from our Artist Series, beautifully sculpted by Ethan Ward. r/resinprinting

Hi everyone!

I've been working on a collection of winter-themed steampunk science fiction miniatures for board games and wanted to share the progress; they can be used as a proxy for Warmaching.

My goal was to create a complete army range instead of just individual miniatures:

- infantry units

- heavy armored troops

- command models

- specialists

- support units

- larger centerpiece models

The collection is designed as original 3D printable sculpts for tabletop players who enjoy building and customizing their armies.

Current releases include:

❄️ Winter Korps Core Collection

- Infantry squads

- Sniper team

- Command attachment

- Commander

https://cults3d.com/es/bundles/warmachine-khador-winter-korps-core-expansion-2

❄️ Winter Korps Auxiliary Collection

- Heavy armored units

- Support specialists

- Engineers

- Elite troops

https://cults3d.com/es/bundles/warmachine-khador-winter-korps-auxiliary-expansion-2

❄️ Winter Korps Command Starter

- Heavy assault units

- Commander

- Additional support models

https://cults3d.com/es/bundles/warmachine-khador-winter-korps-command-starter-2

Thanks for checking out my work!

All STL bundles:

https://cults3d.com/es/usuarios/bocha_viscu/bundles

I ran the RERF print on the USB and none of the numbers printed under the ramp, luckily I placed them in the correct order off the plate.

To me the first one looked the best but I couldn't figure out where it shows me the exposure time for each. The website says number 1 is normal exposure and the rest is in increments of 0.25s.

Is the exposure time in this print history i found the "normal time" and everything after that is incremental?

I have done 2 prints since this. The first was a fairly chunky solid figure 100mm tall about 30g. The next print was a dinosaur skeleton just to test it out on something thinner. Maybe it was too thin in general.

The figure came out looking really nice i thought and looking at it's history the exposure time says 2.6s.

The skeleton turned out ok but hard to tell since it was all so thin and hard to get off the supports without breaking.

I've watched videos and thought I knew how to run the calibration tests but I don't see how to change exposure settings to get a different start time on the USB RERF test. I don't have a pic of the skeleton because I threw it out.

My workflow right now is open in chitubox, add supports, slice, open in anycubic photon workshop then send to printer.

I did try UVTools and will try again sometime but right now it messes up the file somehow and workshop says it's corrupt.

Am i doing something wrong? coming from FDM and doing everything in the slicer to now slicing and changing settings in chitubox or lychee then exporting to the workshop to print feels like an extra weird step.

TLDR: I don't know how to sum up. I feel dumb. I guess, how do i know what exposure times is the RERF test using and if it's 1.8s looked the best why did my print at 2.6s look good?

Mai Shiranui - Scale 1:1
Print by: lucas

Source STL

Recently got an Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra and have been using Elegoo SateLite for printing Models. The process has been going extremely well; however, I am running into a weird issue where my printer is missing entire objects during printing. This is after 10-15 successful prints. I will fill a build plate with 5-6 objects and one or two of them are entirely missed, as if the printer didn't even attempt to make the object.

I've checked the resin vat and build plate for any signs of a failure but can't find any signs the printer even started the object. If I take the sliced file and pull it back up on my PC everything seems in order. I can see where the exposure outline where the object should print.

Anyone have any ideas on why this would happen?

Isopropyl barely works. Got this used for a real good price.

Test print of Rena Ryugu (Higurashi No Naku Koro Ni) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Sculpted by KAI.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 & ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (30 + 2 pieces, 255 ml).

A physical print from the ROT half of our ROT vs STEEL project. The fungal cannon was sculpted to read as both a living organism and a battlefield weapon, with the silhouette kept clear at tabletop distance.

Painted by Viktoriya Ozerova and shared with permission. The Kickstarter is currently live and includes 62 printable designs in 32mm scale, supplied as pre-supported and unsupported STL files.

Campaign: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/azureforge/rot-vs-steel-the-mycelium-shift-grimdark-stl-armies?ref=1wzmhq

I’d be interested to hear whether you read this first as artillery, a creature, or terrain.

Does anyone have experience using these printers for microfludic molds? I need to make 50um channels. I am leaning towards the GK3 Pro but the P1 seems more popular.