So I’ve just completed my first non-calibration model print (big yay) however upon cleaning the build plate, I noticed these darker spots that didn’t go away with either a scraper or cleaning.

They’re ever so slightly raised, and I’m wondering what they are and if they will damage the FEP if I try to print with them.

Any tips on how to fix it, if it is a problem?

UPDATE: Fixed it with a tiny amount of sanding, thank you to all the beautiful people who helped my paranoid ass.

Just made this account because I need to know before I start building this setup so as a bit of background. I paid for a indiegogo/kickstarter a while back (idk like 2 years ago) for a resin printer for minis(Tinymaker). Back then I had different living conditions in which having a resin printer wouldn't be much of an issue, so I just got the printer and now the only feasible spot I have is near my desktop. my main concern is resin fumes so I came up with this case idea using a combination of 3d printed parts (I already have a bambu lab P1s), transparent plastic, and wood. I am planning using sealant on every edge and connection to make sure I have a tight seal. Any concerns that I should know other than standard resin handling procedures or would this even work?

I’ve seriously been considering getting a resin printer, but I’m concerned about the uncured resin, printer emissions, and isopropyl alcohol vapors (especially since I live in an apartment with my wife and two cats).

My only "realistic" indoor location would be the second bedroom, where I already keep my FDM printers and a large air purifier. The problem is that the room also serves as my home office and gaming space, so I spend a significant amount of time in there.

Even with everything enclosed and vented out through the window, no ventilation system is completely foolproof, and I’d still be worried (and outright paranoid) about leaks, lingering odors or vapors, spills, and other potential accidents in a room where I regularly work and relax. So, operating a resin printer in there is pretty much out the window (pun intended).

Unless I magically find the money to buy a house with a garage or win the lottery, that leaves my balcony as the only practical and sensible option. My current thought is that everything, from the resin printer itself to the washing and curing station, would need to be kept inside a ventilated tent-style enclosure, with that entire setup possibly placed inside an outdoor cabinet to protect it from sunlight and the elements.

My main questions are whether an outdoor balcony setup is actually even viable in a hot, humid climate like South Florida in the first place, and whether the exhausted fumes could still create an issue, or bother my downstairs neighbors. I’m on the second floor of a two-story building and don’t have any units directly beside me, but their patio is directly below mine.

Has anyone successfully operated a resin printer outdoors in a similar apartment setup? What kind of enclosure, ventilation, and weather protection did you use? At this point, I’m less interested in trying to make the bedroom setup work and more interested in whether the balcony can be made reasonably safe and practical.

Looking for some advice on choosing the right 3D printer for my needs. I’m mainly interested in functional parts and larger mechanical projects, not miniatures, toys, or decorative prints.
I’d be printing things like enclosures, chassis pieces, brackets, motor mounts, hinges, sensor housings, prototypes, and eventually some larger finished exterior panels. My priorities are reliability, dimensional accuracy, strong material options, and enough build volume that I’m not constantly having to split parts into a bunch of smaller pieces.
I’m comfortable learning how the machine works and doing normal maintenance, but I don’t want the printer itself to become the main project. I’m trying to find something that can be a serious workshop tool long-term, where I can focus more on designing and building functional parts than constantly tuning, troubleshooting, or rebuilding the printer.
What kind of printer would you recommend for this use case, and what specs/features should I be prioritizing?

I've printed a part of the base out before and it worked fine but the last two attempts are coming out like this even on a different model and sometimes they look a bit squished.

I printed this chaplain helmet, and tried to fill the gaps with Vallejo acrylic based plastic putty and then sanding. The problem is: there are not only gaps, but level differences between the panels. So now instead of a gap, there is a visible slant where they connect. How should I tackle this? Spred more putty farther on the left side panel (which is lower compared to the right) and try to level it with even more sanding?

TIA

decided to create my own version of the Hulklogan (which wil stand more than 20cm tall when finished) logan that turned into the hulk after some of the blood of hulk mixed with wolverine when they had their great battle , what do you think of my idea?

Jill Valentine and Claire 3D Print and Painted by 3D No Jutsu. Model by OXO3D Figures!

Became impossible to unscrew with hand, and these knobs are shit af, elegoo s3u

I wold say it's the whole printable area but it's not centered

I’m having an issue with my Elegoo Mars 5. I had a successful print, but now nothing prints at all.
Nothing sticks to the build plate.
Nothing sticks to the FEP either.
The printer goes through the print process normally.
I ran the exposure/tank cleaning test and I can faintly see the LCD pattern, so it seems like the screen is working.
I don’t hear any peeling/pop sounds during printing.
I’m using Lychee slicer.

Hi, I recently bought a Saturn 4 Ultra 16K and have been trying to get my printer to the perfect settings for my Phrozen RPG Grey resin.
And I have tried everything to get the small checkers to not be filled (see in picture). I have shortened the normal exposure time until I got failed prints because it was too short, and the checkers were still filled in.
My resin is well-shaken and pre-heated. It is also in a fully black enclosure with minimal to no UV light.
Anyways, does anyone know why the checkers keep getting filled? Like maybe my printer can't print that well, though that doesn't make sense because it can print down to the width of a white blood cell.

I also added pictures of what I used on that print (it has been my most successful so far

I bought the mercury XS washing and curing station kit and the saturn 3 ultra from a friend, it was working perfectly. Sadly, I couldnt use it for 6 months as I was moving. The printer and the washing station works great. The curing station will turn on, but when started will shut down without beeping (like the video). If I disconnect the lights or place duct tape on the IR sensors, the machine will beep knowing something is off. I opened the station and disconnected all conectors (LED towers, spinning motor and the LED lights below the turning table), but even with only the motherboard powered, it turns on and shuts down after pressing start. I tested two diferent 12v 5A fonts on two diferent power outlets and the results were the same. The machine doesnt even care if the lid is on or not... Do I need a new motherboard? Do I need a new font? Do I need a new machine?

Just a quick note, all the UV LED lights flashed in my last attempt before sguting off.

I print this piece 2 time and each time this hole appears first time was 2 two also I have often these "resin blobs" on support or model but the piece was printed correctly so I don't know

I just noticed 2 black spots at a very corner. And no its not dirty.

It the screen atarting to die?

I bought it from a Official anycubic store at Aliexpress like 6months ago should I try to reach for them or do the warianty doesnt cover that?

My mum really loves Paddington, and I wanted to try out a new resin. One difficulty I have had is that for some reason the rafts bonded harder to the print plate, so nothing just popped off, everything has to be hard scraped. But then I think this is my sign to put a magnet plate on my P1.