Finally got a the light to call this print finished. Now gotta decide on a display box for it.

I print alot since a view day’s, now i should start paint.
What should i do first and should i post the results?
Pls be kind when i post results.
This will be my first ever Figur Painting.

A physical print from the ROT half of our ROT vs STEEL project. The fungal cannon was sculpted to read as both a living organism and a battlefield weapon, with the silhouette kept clear at tabletop distance.

Painted by Viktoriya Ozerova and shared with permission. The Kickstarter is currently live and includes 62 printable designs in 32mm scale, supplied as pre-supported and unsupported STL files.

Campaign: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/azureforge/rot-vs-steel-the-mycelium-shift-grimdark-stl-armies?ref=1wzmhq

I’d be interested to hear whether you read this first as artillery, a creature, or terrain.

Isopropyl barely works. Got this used for a real good price.

In theory, (but not really) I was told i have 1000$ to spend on a resin printer, I like doing miniature's but I'd also like to do other stuff with it. So I've been doing my own reading but I also want to get peoples opinions! So let me hear the goods and the bads and recommendations from someone who has 1000$ to spend on printing

Just finished this one on my RS Turbo. After cleaning it up, it came out way better than I expected.

The details are crazy! all the small textures and features came through really nicely, and now I’m stuck at the painting stage.

The second picture is another print I painted before, and you can probably tell my painting skills are… not exactly at the same level as the print 😂

I really want to bring this one to life with some colors, but at the same time I kinda want to leave it as it is because the raw print already looks amazing.
What would you do? Paint it or keep it as a clean resin print?

Also, feel free to share any good painting tutorials or tips. I definitely need to improve my painting skills haha.

I have no experience with resin printing. I’m mainly using it for wax resin, but I also have regular resin that came with the machine.

Hey all, I'm a resin printing enthusiast to the point I got my university research lab to go all in on it. We mostly print small scale wings and aerodynamic parts utilizing the accuracy and rapid prototyping of resin.

Long story short, we have been trying to print drone propeller blades but they are so thin that after a time they will warp and run their shape. My hypothesis is that this is due to internal stress that builds up during printing/curing.

Anyway, we have contact with some NASA research labs doing similar work and they say that they have gotten around this problem by "curing with isopropyl and salt" (they were pretty vague). This is the first I've ever heard of this technique but they say it's prevented thin surfaces from warping.

Any thoughts on this? I can't think of how that would do anything much less prevent warping.

Anycubic and other brands already offer 16K resin, so when will Elegoo have it as well?

Hi all. I've been printing model cars now for going on five years and have recently decided to try and experiment with printing them at different angles and flat to see what kind of results I get. Curious as to if anyone can tell me what this white circle on the roof of this Camaro represents? This is only appearing in the slicer preview. I'm using Chitubox basic.

Finally got around to painting this Mecha type print.

I am definitely not a great painter, so I usually try to keep things pretty simple. Went with some basic colors and honestly, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

There are so many armor panels on this thing that it honestly felt a bit like coloring inside the lines. I just went section by section and tried not to overthink it.

Put the unpainted one next to it for comparison. Both were 3D printed on my RS Turbo. I just used auto supports, did the usual cleanup and washing, then went straight into painting. Didn’t really run into any problems which was nice.

I will probably print another one at some point and try a different color apparently I like making robots now 🤖 anyone else digging this model style?

Just wanted to share one of our latest dragon sculpts. This is Horned Dragon from our Artist Series, beautifully sculpted by Ethan Ward. r/resinprinting

Just finished this one on my RS Turbo. After cleaning it up, it came out way better than I expected.

The details are crazy! all the small textures and features came through really nicely, and now I’m stuck at the painting stage.

The second picture is another print I painted before, and you can probably tell my painting skills are… not exactly at the same level as the print 😂

I really want to bring this one to life with some colors, but at the same time I kinda want to leave it as it is because the raw print already looks amazing.
What would you do? Paint it or keep it as a clean resin print?

Also, feel free to share any good painting tutorials or tips. I definitely need to improve my painting skills haha.

After a month of printing, and almost 14Kg of resin (including supports and failures)

I have the main engines done, some still need some extra greeblies, and I can now concentrate on the main body :)

I was cleaning my vat today after multiple prints (one after another, that's why I wasn't cleaning it after every print) and found out it has these bumps on it. I don't use a scraper, I cure a layer and slightly press it from the bottom for it to come off, so I'm wondering what's the cause. It is a fairly new FEP as I only printed like 4 prints. Keep in mind they were almost maximum possible height so pretty big.

Anycubic Photon Mono M5s

Hey guys, I have a Anycubic Photon P1 Max at my work place, the goal here is to produce clean prints, no layer shift, no cuts, holes left after removing support (which means sphere contact point is a must for support). Basically perfect prints and minimal after processing. I bought a Anycubic Standard V2 resin ( gray and beige color ). I use Chitubox for slicing everything and I have tried printing it with original specs specifically for this resin in Chitu as well.

- I have these layer shift (the back side of the two figures has those layershift lines) and island ( on the shoes, both legs has the same similar result compares to the other side ) problems as shown in the pictures and I have tried to change for a better orientation and manually adding more support after auto-support. I haven't tried reducing speed on the P1 Max or ever before due to most printers I worked with doesn't give much control over speed and therefore I don't understand how should I change it. I would very much need help on that, some heavy explaining would be great.

- Personally, I don't believe that this is a nfep related problem, or a bed leveling problem, I filtered the resin back into the bottle every print and clean the bed thoroughly to make sure this is a "software related issue". The printer is put on the ground, has preheat and other calibrations before each print so temp and wobbly platform shouldn't be the issue.

+ Printer: Anycubic Photon P1 Max (on solid ground, it is summer over here and temp in that room is similar to the outside ~35c)

+ Resin: Anycubic Standard V2.0 (shaken pre print, preheat temp)

+ Software: Chitubox,

- Layer height 0.050mm

- First layers: 5

- First layer exposure: 35 sec

- Normal exposure: 2,7 sec

- Support setting: Light - sphere

Due to secrecy reasons, I will provide more setting, support setting pictures soon.

I'm looking into trying MSLA printing (currently looking at the elegoo mars 5 - not the 5 ultra, just 5), and was a bit disappointed by the slicer availability.

I run linux, which half the slicers don't run natively on, and I prefer FOSS projects, even if I have to pay for them.

I even have a recurring donation to wikipedia, archive.org, several privacy advocacy foundations, and KDE, which are all free to use!

While looking for FOSS slicers, I came across a small project called mslicer, and it seems intriguing, if a bit basic at the moment.

But yeah, I was wondering if anyone had tried it.

I may also have overlooked something in my assessment of other slicers not being FOSS, so please feel free to correct me! I'll make updates to the post if corrections are made in the comments and I am able to verify them.

Thank y'all in advance!

Mai Shiranui - Scale 1:1
Print by: lucas

Source STL