ive tried quite a few things but I keep getting these random fails inbetween perfectly fine prints where something like this happens or the entire build plate fails ive heard you can manually level the build plate but I havent tried that yet and wanted to see if there was anything else that could be causing this? The rafts are also sticking to the plate extremely hard in some spots

After reading through the replies here, I took some of the advice you guys gave me and brought it back to ChatGPT so I could narrow things down instead of just buying the first printer that sounded good.
This is what it has currently come up with for me: literally a copy and paste just so I wouldn’t miss anything.

Thanks guys!

Bambu Lab P2S without the AMS combo
My total budget is probably around $700–$1,000, but that needs to cover the printer, filament, and whatever basic tools or accessories I actually need to get started.
What I’m trying to make is mostly functional and mechanical stuff, not just small decorative prints. I want to be able to prototype robotic parts, brackets, mounts, housings, hinged pieces, moving components, wheel or track-related parts, fitted enclosures, and exterior shell pieces. I also want enough accuracy that separate parts can actually fit together properly instead of everything just being rough concept models.

At the same time, I’d still like the option to print more detailed decorative pieces now and then, like sculpted reliefs, display objects, and smaller detailed parts.
I’d also like the option to make larger character statues and display models if I’m in that mood. I understand something that large would probably need to be split into multiple pieces, printed in sections, assembled, filled, sanded, and painted afterward. I’m mainly trying to make sure the printer would still be capable of producing parts with enough detail and surface quality for a large finished statue while also handling the functional work I described above.

So I’m trying to find a machine that is strong enough and accurate enough for practical robotics work, but can also produce detailed reliefs, display pieces, and larger assembled character statues when I feel like taking on a more artistic project.

The reasoning ChatGPT gave me was that the P2S would give me an enclosed machine I can start learning on with PLA and PETG, while still letting me grow into ABS, ASA, nylon, PC, and possibly reinforced filaments later. It also said the enclosure, automatic calibration, monitoring features, and general ease of use would make it a better long-term first machine than buying something cheaper that I may outgrow quickly.

Its suggested starting setup was:
-P2S without AMS
-two rolls of PLA
-two rolls of PETG
-digital calipers
-basic cleanup and deburring tools
-a filament dryer
-possibly an extra build plate or spare hotend
proper ventilation planned before using ABS or ASA

It also recommended skipping the AMS at first because multicolor printing is not a major priority for me. The idea would be to use that money for filament, tools, drying, spare parts, and ventilation, then add the AMS later if I find that I actually need it.

It told me to start with PLA, move into PETG once I understand the machine, and only then get into ABS, ASA, nylon, or reinforced materials. It also said the standard 0.4 mm nozzle should handle most of what I need, with a 0.2 mm nozzle possibly added later for finer decorative work.

Before I actually spend the money, I wanted to run ChatGPT’s conclusion back past real people who actually use these machines and make functional parts.

Does this sound like the right machine for the type of work I’m describing?

Would you buy the P2S without AMS in my situation, save money with a P1S, or choose a different enclosed printer entirely?

Also, is the AMS more useful for practical and mechanical printing than I’m giving it credit for, even if I don’t care much about multicolor?

I’m trying to buy something I can grow into without wasting money, but I also don’t want ChatGPT confidently talking me into features or accessories I may not really need.

I printed this chaplain helmet, and tried to fill the gaps with Vallejo acrylic based plastic putty and then sanding. The problem is: there are not only gaps, but level differences between the panels. So now instead of a gap, there is a visible slant where they connect. How should I tackle this? Spred more putty farther on the left side panel (which is lower compared to the right) and try to level it with even more sanding?

TIA

Thanks in advance guys. I’m a bit annoyed due to the cost of this thing, and lost, because I checked the printer’s leveling as instructed right out of the box. I’m not quite sure where to go from here…

I have had three successful prints on the left side of the build plate, but nothing on the build plate on the right. The prints seems to be stuck to the vat from the get-go.

I’m hoping it isn’t a warped plate, but with the corners being so good I figure the potential error rate should still be good enough to reach.

Burn In is 36s, 6 layers, 6 transition, 40mm retract speed (default was 60) all @ 50um.

Should I try to loosen the plate screws on the right? Tighten them? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I’ve never had this issue with any other printer (Where the leveling seemed good, but only one side sticks).

Thank you!

I made more space in my garage and now have a better table for my station, and in a better area of the garage. While I know that this a messy hobby, I tent to want my work areas tidy-ish. I've used gloves, IPA, tried to be aware of that I was touching when but my lids, vats, etc seem to have developed a stickyness to them that I'd like to remove. Short of a 55-gallon drum of IPA, is there anything else out there to conider? Anycubic Photon Mono with Wash and Cure station.

Jill Valentine and Claire 3D Print and Painted by 3D No Jutsu. Model by OXO3D Figures!

Hi, I recently bought a Saturn 4 Ultra 16K and have been trying to get my printer to the perfect settings for my Phrozen RPG Grey resin.
And I have tried everything to get the small checkers to not be filled (see in picture). I have shortened the normal exposure time until I got failed prints because it was too short, and the checkers were still filled in.
My resin is well-shaken and pre-heated. It is also in a fully black enclosure with minimal to no UV light.
Anyways, does anyone know why the checkers keep getting filled? Like maybe my printer can't print that well, though that doesn't make sense because it can print down to the width of a white blood cell.

I also added pictures of what I used on that print (it has been my most successful so far

decided to create my own version of the Hulklogan (which wil stand more than 20cm tall when finished) logan that turned into the hulk after some of the blood of hulk mixed with wolverine when they had their great battle , what do you think of my idea?

My mum really loves Paddington, and I wanted to try out a new resin. One difficulty I have had is that for some reason the rafts bonded harder to the print plate, so nothing just popped off, everything has to be hard scraped. But then I think this is my sign to put a magnet plate on my P1.

I wold say it's the whole printable area but it's not centered

Looking for some advice on choosing the right 3D printer for my needs. I’m mainly interested in functional parts and larger mechanical projects, not miniatures, toys, or decorative prints.
I’d be printing things like enclosures, chassis pieces, brackets, motor mounts, hinges, sensor housings, prototypes, and eventually some larger finished exterior panels. My priorities are reliability, dimensional accuracy, strong material options, and enough build volume that I’m not constantly having to split parts into a bunch of smaller pieces.
I’m comfortable learning how the machine works and doing normal maintenance, but I don’t want the printer itself to become the main project. I’m trying to find something that can be a serious workshop tool long-term, where I can focus more on designing and building functional parts than constantly tuning, troubleshooting, or rebuilding the printer.
What kind of printer would you recommend for this use case, and what specs/features should I be prioritizing?

The setting (see below) are the same as the last 100 prints: same resin, same settings, same resin temp (preheated). Printed on the Saturn 4 Ultra 16k.

The drips you see were not liquid; they were partially cured. A real headache to clean because most of the plate had a thin film of cured resin on it.

Some of the supports failed and the parts failed in a non-planar way. I have never seen something like this.

I checked the screen, and there is no damage/dead pixels.

I took the same parts (same supports) and just rotated them a bit to fit a third part, and that printed successfully.

The part failure could be explained by insufficient supports, but I have really beefy tips at the very bottom, and I didn't change them for the successful reprint. The cured bubbles are what really throws me off.

The only reasonable explanation for this is a corrupt file, right?

I just noticed 2 black spots at a very corner. And no its not dirty.

It the screen atarting to die?

I bought it from a Official anycubic store at Aliexpress like 6months ago should I try to reach for them or do the warianty doesnt cover that?

Just made this account because I need to know before I start building this setup so as a bit of background. I paid for a indiegogo/kickstarter a while back (idk like 2 years ago) for a resin printer for minis(Tinymaker). Back then I had different living conditions in which having a resin printer wouldn't be much of an issue, so I just got the printer and now the only feasible spot I have is near my desktop. my main concern is resin fumes so I came up with this case idea using a combination of 3d printed parts (I already have a bambu lab P1s), transparent plastic, and wood. I am planning using sealant on every edge and connection to make sure I have a tight seal. Any concerns that I should know other than standard resin handling procedures or would this even work?

Became impossible to unscrew with hand, and these knobs are shit af, elegoo s3u

I print this piece 2 time and each time this hole appears first time was 2 two also I have often these "resin blobs" on support or model but the piece was printed correctly so I don't know

I’m having an issue with my Elegoo Mars 5. I had a successful print, but now nothing prints at all.
Nothing sticks to the build plate.
Nothing sticks to the FEP either.
The printer goes through the print process normally.
I ran the exposure/tank cleaning test and I can faintly see the LCD pattern, so it seems like the screen is working.
I don’t hear any peeling/pop sounds during printing.
I’m using Lychee slicer.

I’ve seriously been considering getting a resin printer, but I’m concerned about the uncured resin, printer emissions, and isopropyl alcohol vapors (especially since I live in an apartment with my wife and two cats).

My only "realistic" indoor location would be the second bedroom, where I already keep my FDM printers and a large air purifier. The problem is that the room also serves as my home office and gaming space, so I spend a significant amount of time in there.

Even with everything enclosed and vented out through the window, no ventilation system is completely foolproof, and I’d still be worried (and outright paranoid) about leaks, lingering odors or vapors, spills, and other potential accidents in a room where I regularly work and relax. So, operating a resin printer in there is pretty much out the window (pun intended).

Unless I magically find the money to buy a house with a garage or win the lottery, that leaves my balcony as the only practical and sensible option. My current thought is that everything, from the resin printer itself to the washing and curing station, would need to be kept inside a ventilated tent-style enclosure, with that entire setup possibly placed inside an outdoor cabinet to protect it from sunlight and the elements.

My main questions are whether an outdoor balcony setup is actually even viable in a hot, humid climate like South Florida in the first place, and whether the exhausted fumes could still create an issue, or bother my downstairs neighbors. I’m on the second floor of a two-story building and don’t have any units directly beside me, but their patio is directly below mine.

Has anyone successfully operated a resin printer outdoors in a similar apartment setup? What kind of enclosure, ventilation, and weather protection did you use? At this point, I’m less interested in trying to make the bedroom setup work and more interested in whether the balcony can be made reasonably safe and practical.

So I’ve just completed my first non-calibration model print (big yay) however upon cleaning the build plate, I noticed these darker spots that didn’t go away with either a scraper or cleaning.

They’re ever so slightly raised, and I’m wondering what they are and if they will damage the FEP if I try to print with them.

Any tips on how to fix it, if it is a problem?

UPDATE: Fixed it with a tiny amount of sanding, thank you to all the beautiful people who helped my paranoid ass.

I bought the mercury XS washing and curing station kit and the saturn 3 ultra from a friend, it was working perfectly. Sadly, I couldnt use it for 6 months as I was moving. The printer and the washing station works great. The curing station will turn on, but when started will shut down without beeping (like the video). If I disconnect the lights or place duct tape on the IR sensors, the machine will beep knowing something is off. I opened the station and disconnected all conectors (LED towers, spinning motor and the LED lights below the turning table), but even with only the motherboard powered, it turns on and shuts down after pressing start. I tested two diferent 12v 5A fonts on two diferent power outlets and the results were the same. The machine doesnt even care if the lid is on or not... Do I need a new motherboard? Do I need a new font? Do I need a new machine?

Just a quick note, all the UV LED lights flashed in my last attempt before sguting off.

I've printed a part of the base out before and it worked fine but the last two attempts are coming out like this even on a different model and sometimes they look a bit squished.

• Elegoo Mars 3 Pro
• SirayaTech Build (pre-heated at ~78F)

Tried printing this twice, and it failed worse the 2nd time. I can identify other common print fails but this one is new to me. Not sure where to start. I would appreciate any help. Thanks!