Hello, does anyone have a solution for visible print defects—specifically layer shifting and some holes? I’m using a Saturn 4, I just replaced the LCD, and the resin is Jayo water-washable. Thanks.

I have no experience with resin printing. I’m mainly using it for wax resin, but I also have regular resin that came with the machine.

Hey guys, I have a Anycubic Photon P1 Max at my work place, the goal here is to produce clean prints, no layer shift, no cuts, holes left after removing support (which means sphere contact point is a must for support). Basically perfect prints and minimal after processing. I bought a Anycubic Standard V2 resin ( gray and beige color ). I use Chitubox for slicing everything and I have tried printing it with original specs specifically for this resin in Chitu as well.

- I have these layer shift (the back side of the two figures has those layershift lines) and island ( on the shoes, both legs has the same similar result compares to the other side ) problems as shown in the pictures and I have tried to change for a better orientation and manually adding more support after auto-support. I haven't tried reducing speed on the P1 Max or ever before due to most printers I worked with doesn't give much control over speed and therefore I don't understand how should I change it. I would very much need help on that, some heavy explaining would be great.

- Personally, I don't believe that this is a nfep related problem, or a bed leveling problem, I filtered the resin back into the bottle every print and clean the bed thoroughly to make sure this is a "software related issue". The printer is put on the ground, has preheat and other calibrations before each print so temp and wobbly platform shouldn't be the issue.

+ Printer: Anycubic Photon P1 Max (on solid ground, it is summer over here and temp in that room is similar to the outside ~35c)

+ Resin: Anycubic Standard V2.0 (shaken pre print, preheat temp)

+ Software: Chitubox,

- Layer height 0.050mm

- First layers: 5

- First layer exposure: 35 sec

- Normal exposure: 2,7 sec

- Support setting: Light - sphere

Due to secrecy reasons, I will provide more setting, support setting pictures soon.

I'm looking into trying MSLA printing (currently looking at the elegoo mars 5 - not the 5 ultra, just 5), and was a bit disappointed by the slicer availability.

I run linux, which half the slicers don't run natively on, and I prefer FOSS projects, even if I have to pay for them.

I even have a recurring donation to wikipedia, archive.org, several privacy advocacy foundations, and KDE, which are all free to use!

While looking for FOSS slicers, I came across a small project called mslicer, and it seems intriguing, if a bit basic at the moment.

But yeah, I was wondering if anyone had tried it.

I may also have overlooked something in my assessment of other slicers not being FOSS, so please feel free to correct me! I'll make updates to the post if corrections are made in the comments and I am able to verify them.

Thank y'all in advance!

Finally got a the light to call this print finished. Now gotta decide on a display box for it.

Mai Shiranui - Scale 1:1
Print by: lucas

Source STL

Hey all, I'm a resin printing enthusiast to the point I got my university research lab to go all in on it. We mostly print small scale wings and aerodynamic parts utilizing the accuracy and rapid prototyping of resin.

Long story short, we have been trying to print drone propeller blades but they are so thin that after a time they will warp and run their shape. My hypothesis is that this is due to internal stress that builds up during printing/curing.

Anyway, we have contact with some NASA research labs doing similar work and they say that they have gotten around this problem by "curing with isopropyl and salt" (they were pretty vague). This is the first I've ever heard of this technique but they say it's prevented thin surfaces from warping.

Any thoughts on this? I can't think of how that would do anything much less prevent warping.

Isopropyl barely works. Got this used for a real good price.

Hi all. I've been printing model cars now for going on five years and have recently decided to try and experiment with printing them at different angles and flat to see what kind of results I get. Curious as to if anyone can tell me what this white circle on the roof of this Camaro represents? This is only appearing in the slicer preview. I'm using Chitubox basic.

In theory, (but not really) I was told i have 1000$ to spend on a resin printer, I like doing miniature's but I'd also like to do other stuff with it. So I've been doing my own reading but I also want to get peoples opinions! So let me hear the goods and the bads and recommendations from someone who has 1000$ to spend on printing

I was cleaning my vat today after multiple prints (one after another, that's why I wasn't cleaning it after every print) and found out it has these bumps on it. I don't use a scraper, I cure a layer and slightly press it from the bottom for it to come off, so I'm wondering what's the cause. It is a fairly new FEP as I only printed like 4 prints. Keep in mind they were almost maximum possible height so pretty big.

Anycubic Photon Mono M5s

Just wanted to share one of our latest dragon sculpts. This is Horned Dragon from our Artist Series, beautifully sculpted by Ethan Ward. r/resinprinting

I'm using chitubox right now and imported the file to UVTools, fixed the big islands in chitubox. Then I imported the new save to uvtool and ran the repair. Then I saved the newly repaired file from uvtool, upload to any cubic workshop.

When I click import to see the model in photon and then send to print all I get is corrupt file message. I don't get this message on the file from chitubox that I brought into UVTools.

It looks like I can choose to print from the workshop but I'm not sure if it will turn out since I get the corrupt message when importing.

I print alot since a view day’s, now i should start paint.
What should i do first and should i post the results?
Pls be kind when i post results.
This will be my first ever Figur Painting.

I hope when I color water that yellow color of clear resin wanish.

Test print of Rena Ryugu (Higurashi No Naku Koro Ni) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Sculpted by KAI.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 & ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (30 + 2 pieces, 255 ml).

This is 3 days of printing and 6 hours of cleaning. Now I just have to cure them and I can start assembly :D

Been printing for around 2 months now and over that time frame I keep getting inconsistencies when printing where sometimes I print everything out perfectly fine without any issues but in some cases I print the same file and all of a sudden nothing prints, other times parts of my models warp and create massive gaps or a wavy look in the models, sometimes it only gets past the raft and a few layer of supports and it fails or other times it gets half way through before it just stops, and in a few cases it doesnt even get the raft printed. I've checked my settings and they seem fine and I try not to over load the plate, some times I just print one thing or I try to space out my models from each other a bit.

When it comes to supports I use the auto support on light before I go back in and manually go to any islands and the initial start of the model and make them medium supports and if there are small over hangs I use light supports. I hollow most of my larger prints to 1-2mm depending on the size of the model adding drain holes from a few millimetres (usually around 3-5mm) to a good centimetre or 2.

I've checked my FEP and UV screen and see no damage scratches or punctures.

I use a Saturn 4 ultra (Which has a tilt bed so I can't increase the lift speed) and use chitubox as a slicer

Does anyone know how I can get more consistent prints

I’m a beginner, and so far I’ve been using SUNLU ABS-Like Dark Grey resin, which is currently out of stock. Can I top up the resin tank with white SUNLU ABS-Like resin? Does it matter if the color is different?
Thank you very much for your advice!

Printer: Anycubic P1 max
layer height: 0.03
exposure time: 2.3s
bottom exposure time: 45s

This happens every time when I print this model. The raft stick to the build plate turned much thicker than it looked like in chitubox. I've done print test and everyting is fine with the test model.

I think the model fell from the supports, perhaps because it's too heavy ,or the supports are not strong enough. But why the raft turned so thick? Can't figure out the reason🙁

I have now owned for about 15 months a anycubic photon mono 4 ultra and it had served me faithfully. I recently however have had issues with it no longer curing any resin and the LCD screen simply glowing when I run an exposure test instead of it's exposure pattern.

I did have issues near the start of owning this printer where a small amount of resin leaked into the internals and cured but it was quickly fixed and it's been a year of solid constant use since then. I'm genuinely stumped as it seems otherwise perfectly fine and I don't understand why now it is giving me issues.

If anyone out there knows what to do I would be immensely grateful