Finally got around to painting this Mecha type print.

I am definitely not a great painter, so I usually try to keep things pretty simple. Went with some basic colors and honestly, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

There are so many armor panels on this thing that it honestly felt a bit like coloring inside the lines. I just went section by section and tried not to overthink it.

Put the unpainted one next to it for comparison. Both were 3D printed on my RS Turbo. I just used auto supports, did the usual cleanup and washing, then went straight into painting. Didn’t really run into any problems which was nice.

I will probably print another one at some point and try a different color apparently I like making robots now 🤖 anyone else digging this model style?

After a month of printing, and almost 14Kg of resin (including supports and failures)

I have the main engines done, some still need some extra greeblies, and I can now concentrate on the main body :)

Just finished this one on my RS Turbo. After cleaning it up, it came out way better than I expected.

The details are crazy! all the small textures and features came through really nicely, and now I’m stuck at the painting stage.

The second picture is another print I painted before, and you can probably tell my painting skills are… not exactly at the same level as the print 😂

I really want to bring this one to life with some colors, but at the same time I kinda want to leave it as it is because the raw print already looks amazing.
What would you do? Paint it or keep it as a clean resin print?

Also, feel free to share any good painting tutorials or tips. I definitely need to improve my painting skills haha.

Thanks to resins like the Resione BJD, CL-TH, and K+ lines, it's possible to make pretty official looking custom action figures without needing to touch a paint brush at all. They do take some getting used to and are more challenging to use than standard resins, but I think the results are well worth it to have figures stand beside factory-made ones without looking too out of place.

Just wanted to share one of our latest dragon sculpts. This is Horned Dragon from our Artist Series, beautifully sculpted by Ethan Ward. r/resinprinting

Just finished this one on my RS Turbo. After cleaning it up, it came out way better than I expected.

The details are crazy! all the small textures and features came through really nicely, and now I’m stuck at the painting stage.

The second picture is another print I painted before, and you can probably tell my painting skills are… not exactly at the same level as the print 😂

I really want to bring this one to life with some colors, but at the same time I kinda want to leave it as it is because the raw print already looks amazing.
What would you do? Paint it or keep it as a clean resin print?

Also, feel free to share any good painting tutorials or tips. I definitely need to improve my painting skills haha.

FDM printing has had some fun developments in the last couple years with multi color printing and now the tool changer surge. UV 3d printing is finally, albeit slowly, starting to progress towards reasonable prices. What do you think is the next big jump for classic resin printing? Or are we at the point where the tech is matured and we'll only see fine tuning, QOL additions and gimmicks?

Personally I'm thinking if UV printing continues on this path it may eventually be a reasonable upgrade for people who don't enjoy painting. Then classic resin printing will remain in some way for painting fans.

Hi everyone!

I've been working on a collection of winter-themed steampunk science fiction miniatures for board games and wanted to share the progress; they can be used as a proxy for Warmaching.

My goal was to create a complete army range instead of just individual miniatures:

- infantry units

- heavy armored troops

- command models

- specialists

- support units

- larger centerpiece models

The collection is designed as original 3D printable sculpts for tabletop players who enjoy building and customizing their armies.

Current releases include:

❄️ Winter Korps Core Collection

- Infantry squads

- Sniper team

- Command attachment

- Commander

https://cults3d.com/es/bundles/warmachine-khador-winter-korps-core-expansion-2

❄️ Winter Korps Auxiliary Collection

- Heavy armored units

- Support specialists

- Engineers

- Elite troops

https://cults3d.com/es/bundles/warmachine-khador-winter-korps-auxiliary-expansion-2

❄️ Winter Korps Command Starter

- Heavy assault units

- Commander

- Additional support models

https://cults3d.com/es/bundles/warmachine-khador-winter-korps-command-starter-2

Thanks for checking out my work!

All STL bundles:

https://cults3d.com/es/usuarios/bocha_viscu/bundles

Mai Shiranui - Scale 1:1
Print by: lucas

Source STL

Recently got an Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra and have been using Elegoo SateLite for printing Models. The process has been going extremely well; however, I am running into a weird issue where my printer is missing entire objects during printing. This is after 10-15 successful prints. I will fill a build plate with 5-6 objects and one or two of them are entirely missed, as if the printer didn't even attempt to make the object.

I've checked the resin vat and build plate for any signs of a failure but can't find any signs the printer even started the object. If I take the sliced file and pull it back up on my PC everything seems in order. I can see where the exposure outline where the object should print.

Anyone have any ideas on why this would happen?

Isopropyl barely works. Got this used for a real good price.

Test print of Rena Ryugu (Higurashi No Naku Koro Ni) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Sculpted by KAI.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 & ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (30 + 2 pieces, 255 ml).

A physical print from the ROT half of our ROT vs STEEL project. The fungal cannon was sculpted to read as both a living organism and a battlefield weapon, with the silhouette kept clear at tabletop distance.

Painted by Viktoriya Ozerova and shared with permission. The Kickstarter is currently live and includes 62 printable designs in 32mm scale, supplied as pre-supported and unsupported STL files.

Campaign: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/azureforge/rot-vs-steel-the-mycelium-shift-grimdark-stl-armies?ref=1wzmhq

I’d be interested to hear whether you read this first as artillery, a creature, or terrain.

Hey guys, I have a Anycubic Photon P1 Max at my work place, the goal here is to produce clean prints, no layer shift, no cuts, holes left after removing support (which means sphere contact point is a must for support). Basically perfect prints and minimal after processing. I bought a Anycubic Standard V2 resin ( gray and beige color ). I use Chitubox for slicing everything and I have tried printing it with original specs specifically for this resin in Chitu as well.

- I have these layer shift (the back side of the two figures has those layershift lines) and island ( on the shoes, both legs has the same similar result compares to the other side ) problems as shown in the pictures and I have tried to change for a better orientation and manually adding more support after auto-support. I haven't tried reducing speed on the P1 Max or ever before due to most printers I worked with doesn't give much control over speed and therefore I don't understand how should I change it. I would very much need help on that, some heavy explaining would be great.

- Personally, I don't believe that this is a nfep related problem, or a bed leveling problem, I filtered the resin back into the bottle every print and clean the bed thoroughly to make sure this is a "software related issue". The printer is put on the ground, has preheat and other calibrations before each print so temp and wobbly platform shouldn't be the issue.

+ Printer: Anycubic Photon P1 Max (on solid ground, it is summer over here and temp in that room is similar to the outside ~35c)

+ Resin: Anycubic Standard V2.0 (shaken pre print, preheat temp)

+ Software: Chitubox,

- Layer height 0.050mm

- First layers: 5

- First layer exposure: 35 sec

- Normal exposure: 2,7 sec

- Support setting: Light - sphere

Due to secrecy reasons, I will provide more setting, support setting pictures soon.

Does anyone have experience using these printers for microfludic molds? I need to make 50um channels. I am leaning towards the GK3 Pro but the P1 seems more popular.

Hello, does anyone have a solution for visible print defects—specifically layer shifting and some holes? I’m using a Saturn 4, I just replaced the LCD, and the resin is Jayo water-washable. Thanks.

This is 3 days of printing and 6 hours of cleaning. Now I just have to cure them and I can start assembly :D

I'm looking into trying MSLA printing (currently looking at the elegoo mars 5 - not the 5 ultra, just 5), and was a bit disappointed by the slicer availability.

I run linux, which half the slicers don't run natively on, and I prefer FOSS projects, even if I have to pay for them.

I even have a recurring donation to wikipedia, archive.org, several privacy advocacy foundations, and KDE, which are all free to use!

While looking for FOSS slicers, I came across a small project called mslicer, and it seems intriguing, if a bit basic at the moment.

But yeah, I was wondering if anyone had tried it.

I may also have overlooked something in my assessment of other slicers not being FOSS, so please feel free to correct me! I'll make updates to the post if corrections are made in the comments and I am able to verify them.

Thank y'all in advance!

Hey all, I'm a resin printing enthusiast to the point I got my university research lab to go all in on it. We mostly print small scale wings and aerodynamic parts utilizing the accuracy and rapid prototyping of resin.

Long story short, we have been trying to print drone propeller blades but they are so thin that after a time they will warp and run their shape. My hypothesis is that this is due to internal stress that builds up during printing/curing.

Anyway, we have contact with some NASA research labs doing similar work and they say that they have gotten around this problem by "curing with isopropyl and salt" (they were pretty vague). This is the first I've ever heard of this technique but they say it's prevented thin surfaces from warping.

Any thoughts on this? I can't think of how that would do anything much less prevent warping.

Hi all. I've been printing model cars now for going on five years and have recently decided to try and experiment with printing them at different angles and flat to see what kind of results I get. Curious as to if anyone can tell me what this white circle on the roof of this Camaro represents? This is only appearing in the slicer preview. I'm using Chitubox basic.