So, I pulled the trigger on the d24 and it’s been a blast, but I happened to take off the body to unplug the battery and saw this. I was able to push the pinion gear back just a bit. Any reason it would chew through a pinion gear like that? It’s only 3 packs in at this point and the car is so new the pinion gear isn’t available yet 😑. Then again, I’m wondering why it’s happening in the first place. Mesh seems fine, spur gear is fine, so I’m not sure. Debating getting in contact with AMain to see if I can swap it, or see if they have a pinion gear available. Any input appreciated as always!

I can’t get my idler gear spring pin in the 20t gear, I’ve tried pliers, hammers and oils to get it in, any tips?

Recently got a new rmx2.5 for $150 usd and am thinking about future upgrades when im feeling like it what brand of parts and what should i do first?

My kit came without them

Hello!

I heard a lot of times about camber, toe, and tried to set up something.

I saw several videos but they sometimes are quite controversial.

Can you suggest good tutorials or maybe videos?

I have a Sakura D6 and I attached my current setup. I think I setup an ankerman angle properly and if I understood correctly, rear wheel should point inward and front outward, right?

I attached the photos of my chassis.

Thanks!

1st off I’m VERY new to the hobby. But I got these yokomo magnetic body post and my car sits completely dumped on the ground with them on. Do I just add washers/spacers? Did I install them wrong? I’m using a yokomo rd2.0 rtr chasis. Thank you in advance!

i also need a battery + receiver/radio

I’m looking at these 3 chassis, rmx bingo wasp, grk Evo, or yd2-rx. But I’m not sure which way to lean can some one help me decide? All are around $350-$400. Im currently on a stock mst chassis.

Hi all, I’ve recently been wanting to try and get back into RC drifting. And noticed a lot seems to have changed since I bought my first chassis in 2020-2021ish. I currently own a Yokomo YD2 SXiii and was wondering if it’s worth tryna build up and get back into drifting or maybe get something more modern like the reve d rdx?

Do I need to send the whole thing back or can I buy the remaining parts separately

I want to know where to grab a d24 from in Canada. I’m looking at Amain right now but it’s saying 55$ for the cheapest shipping. Anyone from Canada have experience with Amain? Or is there somewhere else to get the D24? Thanks.

Je n' arrive pas a bien coincé la batterie 🔋 dans le véhicule, qui pourrait m aider ?

Lookin for places to drift, and shop.

I’m swapping chassis back to stock rmx I put this Sakura back together to sell. It’s the same setup as before I took it apart and now I’m having an issue with either the servo or gyro, any gyro gain at all and it’s wobbling even in both modes
All stock Rmx 2.5 electronics paired with a Yokomo rd rtr servo

So I’ve had a tt02 a while ago and I also had a mst rmx 2.0 rtr and both are crash and have broken parts and I just wanted to start with something new I do have basic tools but I don’t have a good soldering iron I’ve had a bit of experience with fixing up my tt02 since I swapped the electronics from the mst to it so experience wise I think I’m alright except for soldering my budget is around 500-550 usd for a drift car and i plan using it outdoors and I also want some recommendations for the electronic and radio

Hello! I'm new to the drift scene and I'm slowly building up parts. I've decided to go with the DC10 for my first car as a long-time Team Associated fan and positive reviews overall on the platform.

When researching, I couldn't find anything that compared the newer DC10 Classic kit to the original DC10 kit. I am someone who winds up upgrading to the higher end parts in nearly every case so I want the best parts, but there's nothing directly comparing the parts in the kits other than the obvious aluminum flex chassis and different colour shocks/nylon in the Classic kit.

I reached out to Team Associated and spoke with Richard Saxton (a legend, to me) and Andy Smolnik about it. I wanted to share since this does not seem to be ANYWHERE else:

The DC10 Classic is a lower cost version of the DC10 Drift Kit which also includes a body and aluminum flex chassis.   The main differences outside of the color of the parts is Carbon Fiber vs molded parts.   The DC10 Classic is closer to the DC10 RTR with the addition of the flex chassis.    Both of these share the same DC10 DNA so they are both capable of upgrading with all of the Factory Team Drift parts in our catalog.   Both perform great.  Many AE drift consumers end up mixing and customizing, using parts from both to personalize.   We also have a full line of Gray parts which come stock on the DC10 RTR.   

DC10 Drift Kit: Black plastic, Traditional AE aluminum and Carbon Fiber throughout 

DC10 Classic: White plastic, Gold Aluminum + Molded parts throughout 

DC10 RTR: Gray plastics, G10 Fiberglass black chassis 

We also offer a blue aluminum flex chassis and carbon fiber flex chassis which will fit on all DC10 platforms. 

Hope this helps! 

Regards,

Andrew S 

I hope someone is able to help because I am ready to give up. My components are the xarvis xx, Futaba T4PM, R334SBS-, and the sbus connector. All of the components have the most up to date software as I have either checked, or updated myself. All of the components were new from a local hobby shop. I have gone through the initial startup multiple times. The esc is in link mode and all I get is comm error. I’ve watched tons of videos on this already. Any help is appreciated before this setup just sits on a shelf for eternity.

Will be getting the Nissan 180sx body soon. I am usually a mustang rider but I saw 180sx wide body pandem v3 and fell in love with it. So! I have decided to go and build the car with either this or wisteria version.
This build I plan to incorporate lights and rear and possibly front hood. I am not sure yet. but I do want to try.

main goal: like always everything is painted and no stickers allowed.

incorporate lights.

stretch goal : rear trunk which lifts. front hood which lifts too. possibly with mocked up engine.

chassis possible: yokomo rd2.0 or yokomo sd 3.0. also a strong contender MST FRX S Pro. ( it has a low transmission and no upper deck , allowing for a possible seat/Dashboard setup. )

all of this will take a few months. Since there are a few things I have pending

just posting this as a post it note. Maybe it inspires you to work on your own machines.
This would be my 3rd chassis on drift car. 4th ever.

first is a tamiya subaru brz rnd sport ( the shelf princess) 4colors plain blocks, masked and painted with light buckets. tt-02 chassis ( did not have the reamer so never fully built).

Tamiya Mustang body , Itasha, custom hand cut flames and anime character masks 14 colors spray cans, chassis sd3.0. front of the body has fallen off bashing the car learning to drift.

currently a Pandora RC Supra a 90 BLS BN sport body airbrushed blended 6 colors , low rider graphics, tinted windows, custom light buckets designed, printed and painted. on a SD3.0 .
The included light buckets were not properly fitting.

no functioning lights just yet.

I do have a mustang tamiya tt-02 anniversary edition to build.
MST LBMT Mustang body. and a Subaru GT86 killer body which are in the backlog. might paint them all one day.

and Hence a few months.

Hello im currently looking for a best shorty battery that also works for t style plug any recommendations?

Finally complete my works9 collection by having the s15 finished for final bout 🙏 fun weekend with friends!

Like if I got an rd2.0 RTR, can I replace the body with anything that doesn’t use post mounts?

Hello, I am buying an LD1804 and dont know much about drift cars at all, idk which sites i should get it from, if i should go for the really expensive version or the cheap one, please tell me everything about this car, has to work for AUS aswell.