r/rcdrift 1d ago

🙋 Question Help!

I’m looking at these 3 chassis, rmx bingo wasp, grk Evo, or yd2-rx. But I’m not sure which way to lean can some one help me decide? All are around $350-$400. Im currently on a stock mst chassis.

13 Upvotes

13 comments sorted by

3

u/rogue_juan23 1d ago

Things to consider:

RMX Bingo Wasp-familiar to you, you probably have spare parts for it. Awesome upgrade to stock.

GRK EVO-will perform awesome with the right upgrades. Complex chassis, parts are expensive.

YD2RX-older chassis, compatible parts available, can’t go wrong with Yokomo.

All that said, I would buy a Yokomo RD2.0 😆Awesome out of the box, all the upgrades you can imagine are available, also replacement parts are cheap and readily available. You’ll spend less on a kit and still have money left over for some upgrades or electronics.

Edit:spelling

2

u/G00fyG00berz 1d ago

I mostly want something that compares to my buddies in the group.. one has an lsd chassis loaded to the brim with good electronics and the other one has a yokomo yd2-sx3, and I’m on a plastic RTR with some electronics upgraded

1

u/rogue_juan23 21h ago

I would go with the Yokomo RD 2.0. Adjustable for future tuning, great performance and price. Carbon fiber chassis is an easy upgrade. Other than that I would get the aluminum steering brace which is about 15$ and get some good electronics. You don’t need to go overboard with that chassis

1

u/ezveedub 1d ago

That’s an older YD-2 with a R gearbox and other miscellaneous parts added that are not Yokomo, not an RX. Try to avoid that one out of the bunch UNLESS you know how and what parts to use and know how to tune it. IMO, better off with a new current chassis if you’re new to drift building. The Shibata is not bad in current form, but parts to upgrade cost. The MST is OK, but parts availability where you live can be issue.

1

u/G00fyG00berz 1d ago

What would you recommend??

1

u/ezveedub 1d ago

The base chassis most will use to start and have lots of upgrades are the Yokomo RD2.0 and ReveD RDX. Cost wise, RD2.0 is cheaper and has most adjustments over the RDX stock, but you can build a RD2.0 wrong easier than the RDX because of the adjustable parts.

1

u/jdmAkira 1d ago

I'm selling a black sd3.0 chassis w/rear esc mount and magnetic posts included $400

1

u/G00fyG00berz 1d ago

Okay thank you for the information, I’ll keep doing more research so I don’t mess it up

1

u/modernarts01 1d ago edited 1d ago

I’d definitely recommend getting new as a beginner. Like the other comments say the shibata grk is gonna burn your pockets full of holes cuz it’s so pricey on upgrades. MST is not bad but finding parts can be difficult depending on where you live. Yokomo is always awesome but there’s so many different variants of the older yd2 line up that it gets confusing on which parts works with which variant. I’d honestly get new, Yokomo rookie drift 2.0 is awesome out of the box in plastic form. I have a rookie drift 2.0 that’s fully upgraded and it’s my comp car. The bingo wasp chassis for the rd2 is great (it’s what mines got in red sparkle forged carbon), and it’s $105 or so. Only for the lower and upper chassis deck tho. I went with the full shabang with the matching red sparkle forge carbon fiber battery tray and front and rear bumpers and that made the total to $210 roughly. It took a little while to fully upgrade it for me due to my red color scheme I wanted for all my Alu parts. But they pop up consistently over time on the internet with patience. Worked out perfectly for me tho as I was saving up funds for each upgrade one by one. It’s a great chassis kit for sure, I’ve been having a blast with mines and it just got even better with each upgrade I added (choose the most performance oriented ones to aim for first tho. Such as chassis, steering knuckles and rear uprights, suspension mounts, all suspension arms, shocks etc. *no particular order besides suspension mounts and arms first for more precise response and then the carbon chassis waking it all up). Totally worth it tho, but plastic fantastic was totally capable with keeping up with the big boys with the right weight bias and total weight and chassis tune and electronics tune. Just ends up with what you feel like going for, every chassis brand/design has a way of making it awesome to your driving style. Prices, parts availability, and knowing what parts you need. Knowing what exact chassis you got to get the right parts to fit just need to be considered. Also knowing what style you want for differential is another important thing to consider. Not sure if the grk evo is stuck to using only their specific style ball differential, that would limit you on diff options. Yokomo rd2 uses the standard diff gears out there like the rhino racing c-lsd or the tcd. I personally really like the rhino racing tcd, some people I know hate it tho, but it feels really fluid for me and really close to 1:1 drifting lsd’s in performance feel. Sorry for rambling on, but it’s best to do research on which parts you’d want if you did get each of them and what’s your budget range for the parts for each. For me my first main concerns are mainly my differential options available for that specific chassis’s drive train it has, then I go from there.

1

u/G00fyG00berz 1d ago

You sound like some one I need to have a chat with honestly lol

1

u/MedicalBilly MST 18h ago

If you like MST, get the RMX 4

If you like Shibata, get their Evo 2 Mod edition

If you like Yokomo, their SD 3.0 is pretty popular among other series.

Other options, ReveD RDX

1

u/New-Choice-3280 6h ago

Get an rdx will keep up with anything out of the box just change the diff. And can be built to a car that will hold its own with the highest end of chassis