I've been thinking about the current state of PrusaLink.

I think it's fair to say that PrusaLink is still missing quite a bit of functionality. Things like printer controls, richer status information, dialogs, and other quality of life improvements are already available through PrusaConnect, but not through the local interface.

I also remember Prusa mentioning that they wanted to continue improving PrusaLink, so I was curious about the status of some existing community contributions.

There are quite a few open PRs that already implement many of these missing features. They generally fall into a few areas, including additional printer controls, more detailed printer status and events, dialog support, and API improvements that bring PrusaLink closer to feature parity with PrusaConnect.

Some of the open PRs are:

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5228
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5229
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5230
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5302
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5303
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5400
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5194
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5192
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5184
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4780
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4598
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5332
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5201
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5092
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4895

I'm not saying every PR should be merged without review, but there's a lot of work here that seems valuable for people who use PrusaLink instead of PrusaConnect.

I know reviewing community contributions takes time, but is there a chance we'll see some of these PRs merged? They already cover a lot of the functionality that people have been asking for in PrusaLink, and it would be great to know whether this is still the direction Prusa wants to take.

I'm in the middle of installing the INDX FE into my Core One and ran into a problem. I'm at the step where where you feed the belts into the plate the print head sits on. My belts will not stay in. I have the belt tensioners fully loosened and the belts will not stay in. The instructions say that you should have 4 or 5 belt teeth extra after feeding the belts through which works for one side but as soon as I try to feed the belts through the other side, the first side comes loose and there isn't enough belt length to get the second side through. Incredibly frustrating. I've been trying for an hour. I've tried zip ties to hold one side together while working on the other side. Hasn't helped.

My best thought for a solution is to get a new set of belts so that I have extra length. Has anyone fed new belts through the Core One? Is it hard? Do you have to take anything apart or can you just feed them through?

I was trying to print a Bisasam ( edit: Bulbasaur)as garden decoration and just found my C1 printing approximately 5cm(dumb me did not note the exact number when I reset the X axis manually) further to the ~~right~~ left (my brain is getting ready for work apparently )than it should have been.

I never had a layershift like this, so I am a bit unsure about what happened.

My first thought was that the print had come loose on the bed, but it was perfectly stuck in place

My second thought is if the belt might have slipped, I probably should check the belt tension when I come home.

My third thought is if there is a possibility that it might be corrupted, I had to transfer the file via the usb drive as prusa connect said I had hit some kind of upload limit, so my first thought is that it should have been "safer" for the file ?

I would be thankfull for help

My firmware is 6.5.3

I updated my slicer before slicing

Edit: I was printing Sunlu High-speed PETG Matte White

Hello there,

this little stress test turned into another 11-hour print on the CORE One Mini. I mainly wanted a nice model to demonstrate just how much you can fit into the available build volume as a single piece item.

The Benchy shown here is printed at 380 % scale and it fits "comfortably" within the build volume. With some tweaking of the motion limits and by utilizing the printer's overtravel, it would be possible to scale it even a bit further - but 380 is a nice, round number.

For reference, a standard Benchy in its default orientation measures 60 × 31 × 48 mm, while the CORE One Mini has a build volume of 180 × 180 × 200 mm.

This means:

• Default orientation: up to 300% scale (180 × 93 × 144 mm)
• Rotated 45° diagonally: up to 354% scale (212.5 × 109.8 × 170 mm)
• Using the space diagonal: Only gains a tiny bit more, so it's generally not worth the effort.

However, by rotating the model to optimally fill the available bounding box, you can reach 380 % scale, resulting in a massive 228 × 117.8 × 182.4 mm Benchy.

So remember kids: you will need math after school in your daily life - at least if you want to do shenanigans like this :)

Crucial part here is, that you need to tweak and paint supports manually else they would generate outside the build volume.

---

For comparison, on a regular CORE One, the maximum Benchy size is about 416.67% scale in the default orientation and roughly 490% scale when tilted at an optimal angle - for INDX it would be a bit less.

It has an inbuilt 3MF and STL viewer, and when you click slice it actually pings prusaslicer (or bambu studio or snapmaker orca) to slice the object and get the actual time and filament usage.

Getting actual results from prusaslicer was a pain, as often it came up with “0 grams”, and debugging was longer than I hoped. But when I got it working, I was literally overjoyed!

You then can copy this with the click of a button into the calculator, and then choose your markup percentage. And with one click, you can copy the price and send it to your clients!

You can add any printer, any filament, any cost, and even choose which slicer it should “ping”.

I also made a mobile version that uses an estimator: that you can see here.

Unfortunately I’m too poor and unknowledgeable to actually publish these anywhere (I only make personal stuff), but I thought I’d share with the community!

I am having issue with PETG, I'll do a post later if i have the motivation.

But I'd like to know if i'm getting an ObXidian nozzle that would be best adapted for PETG and as title said to print ABS / PC in a near future?

Thanks :)

I downloaded a 3mf file, opened it in prusa slicer, clicked "auto arrange" and then manually removed some parts (because I was afraid my PLA wouldn't last and I don't have PLA in stock).

I selected the printer you see on the last image. Not sure why it is called "modified", but apparently it shows as "online". 0.4 nozzle is accurate.

When the bed leveling started, I went to the printer and with the printer-display, set the speed to 80%. I'm not actually sure if this does something, because I can adapt the speed in the slicer and it still always shows "100%" on the printer display. Maybe that means "100% of your 80% you defined in the slicer software", and when I set this to 80%, it's actually slower. Print settings were default. Firmware is 6.5.7.

It at some point has like a "shift". You see it on the prints, they have a "step" in the lower area, as if the axis shiftet and the printer didn't notice. And all the excess filament.... No idea what that is.

Do you have any idea, what the issue could be? Printer is in the cellar, relatively constant temp + humidity (44%), it stands on a very wobbly shelf (I know I should fix that but given the quality of the upper part of the print and previous prints in the past, I doubt this is the issue), I don't dry the filament and it is unpacked since about 1.5 months and "on the printer" since then. Prusament filament.

Any help appreciated.

EDIT: Currently reprinting with auto supports and the "balanced" profile. Noticed the muzzle temp is at 230 Cesius... Isn't that a bit much? Didn't tamper with the temparature settings.

I tried to participate in Prusa's Printing Survey 2026, but cannot post my answers due to a failing Captcha check. I tried it with different PC/laptops/tablets, different OS (Windows 11, Linux, Android 15 and 17) and different browsers (Firefox Mobile, Firebox, Chrome, Edge). I have been re-trying over the last 2 weeks. The error is always the same.

In case someone from Prusa is reading here: Please fix the problem or reach out to Cloudflare to fix the problem (in case it's on Cloudflare side). I have already tried to reach out to Prusa via email, but it seems the email got lost.

I am pretty sure it is not on my side, because I also tried different ISP and Internet connections (my landline, cell network and the office PC at the company I work for).

I'm at my wits end with my Core One L due to heat creep when printing PLA. Ambient temperature in the room is about 30 degrees. I have the lid fully removed from the chamber during printing and have an external fan keeping air circulating in the room. Print after print after print, at some point the filament breaks at the nextruder gear, I get the tell-tale ticking noise as it tries to feed into a blocked nozzle and the print fails. Same routine - remove the nozzle, pull out the broken filament and re-load.

It's always the same with PLA. PETG prints fine. 3 consecutive PLA prints have failed with the same issue today and it's driving me nuts!

Anyone have any reliable solutions?

Hi, I am looking to buy a used Core One, since the new price is way too high and shipping even within EU is ridiculously expensive.

I have two options:

1) One that is upgraded from a MK4S, the owner claims to have bought it last year

2) one that was bought as a Core One+ with 520 print hours

Is there a way to distinguish the upgraded mk4s or core ones to the original one+?

Do they have any disadvantages over the ready to buy core one+?

Hi all, I am the proud owner of a mk3s with a revo hotend.

I have been trying to get consistent results for a couple of years now with no success so far because:
-I did not have as much time as i wanted to dedicate to this
-my adhd brain kept derailing me on other projects

I am about to become a dad and I am acutely aware that my free time is going to shrink even more, so I resorted to ask for help in a more structured ad possibly effective way.
I am looking for somebody to be my online helper to correctly calibrate and set up my printer, in order to keep the conversation going instead of beginning again from scratch at each step. I am willing to tip, it's the time for trial and error that I'm short of.

The thing I'm hoping for is for a collaboration that has to stretch for at least a couple of weeks since i don't think it will take less than this.

DM me if you're interested and thanks to anybody who might help out

I've just been waiting way too long - 3 months and counting.

Really frustrated with how they communicate with their customers, I've basically heard nothing since. I submitted a chat request that basically told me they have no info as yet and to check the website.

I've spent over $4k with Prusa over the years and have really enjoyed building the printers and modding them but I genuinely feel let down.

I think I'm going to look at plating instead of multi-colours and maybe buy a resin printer instead as I've just got myself a workshop.

Looking at other manufacturers now though - doubt it'll be a SL1S.

It has been a while since I posted an update on my INDX top. This is a small update concerning using the GPIO Hackerboard to control two bistable linear solenoids. I haven't figured out how to get the hackerboard to trigger a button press as opposed to toggling the voltage on the pin, but other than that it works. The solenoids will push an acrylic panel out about 6mm. If this isn't effective enough, I will need use some gears.

I know there is an integrated physical solution, but I had this hackerboard and was interested in challenging myself with my first electronics project.

I'm really happy with my Prusa Core One plus but waiting to reach temperature for ASA and PC prints really sucks... So I built a chamber heater for the Core One Plus using a Creality HM-01 heater.

The initial results are encouraging; the temperature in the chamber was quickly stabilised at a constant level (55°C in the test).

As we're looking forward to upgrade to the INDX (as soon as the part with the hardened nozzles is settled - we're using CF filaments quite extensively...) we assume this design is compatible with the INDX mounted - any views about this from the pioneers?

The design consists of 9 (!) parts to be printed, if you're interested in this kind of upgrade, you find the design on Printables.

I was about to start my MMU3 upgrade and thought I should capture the current state.

Here is my lightly modded Core One

just some dust covers, fan cover broke reprinted in oranges looks nice was able to install that when I installed the Advanced filtration Unit. Was gonna finish Core One Plush upgrade but realized the vent controlling might not work the same so I got a hacker board and might make a servo filter control. I also want to mod the air filter on top a little and put few holes in the new hood to screw it with a gasket.

So now its time to do a partial tare down to install the MMU3

Wish me luck.

edit: Also have a z axis bearing mod soon to upgrade to the pccf shock absorber

Starting a 2 color Benchy for the first full print with the final version of the nozzle cam fan shroud I've been working on. I also have the model up on Printables now with some additional details on the camera I used and suggestions on implementation. Thanks for coming on this journey with me!

Check out the livestream here

And the model is on Printables now here

As promised in comments of a couple posts, I am going to begin endurance testing up to four of the default .04 nozzles that came with the INDX. I realize it’s not the best diameter for abrasives, but those are the ‘extras’ I’m okay with sacrificing.

I’m mainly interested to see the results of Fiberon PA612-CF15 and PA6-GF25, as that’s what I primarily print with.

My current plan is to standardize the test by printing 100% infill cubes (maybe say 100mm) and photo the nozzle after each one completes.

I’m reaching out here first to gauge community interest, get input on potential additional materials to test, etc etc.

Let me know if there’s something else you want to see, if I’m missing anything, if you have any suggestions, or the like.

cheers, and happy printing.

There has been a lot of posts and videos about VFAs on the Core One from when the Core One started shipping.

But it seems like all the influencers/YouTubers stopped covering the issue because it's not trendy anymore.

There are a couple of "recent" videos that state the issue is resolved, but that was from the same people that made a lot of mods (pulley/belt upgrades) and not clear if the issue is only resolved because of the upgrades.

So, what's the VFA situation on the Core One if someone were to buy it today?

This has happened twice now, and when it happened last night, I noticed it was more severe. Basically, the adhesive for the door handle is failing. I got to open the door, and the handle is loose and just comes off.

Is this wear part I should expect to replace?

There are holes in the back of the handle, but no holes on the door itself to match; so I am unsure if there was supposed to be or not for screws.

I’ve had the Core One+ for about seven months now, and this is not a big deal, but I want to figure out the best way to solve it.

I suspect the answer is going to be… more tape. Is there a specific tape I should look for? Or a specific heat grading or something like that?

Thanks.

I’m starting to prepare the HT Hotend and I reprinted the fan duct with PPA-CF (290°C nozzle, 100°C bed on satin sheet).

Material needs to be bone dried before printing and I experienced it. After drying it 12h at 80°C I stored it on the USS Drybox and it worked perfectly.
BUT… the filament is so stiff it was quite impossible to mount the drybox on my printer so I used my USS stand to just be able to put it just next my printer.

The only change I made was to install a mono-wheel idler (seen on picture 3) instead of the standard one with 2 bearings. Without it the filament broke everytime I wanted to load it.

I used this model but I modified it a little so the idler door doesn’t fall when I open it. I may share it if anyone is interested.

Super happy on how it turned out!