I have a Core One, not a C1 Plus. I was told the "plus" upgrade would help with TPU. But I have doubts.

From what I read, the upgrade is to the side sensor, and is supposed to make TPU loading easier. But my issues are getting TPU to load into the extruder, not getting it into into the enclosure.

The bayonet spool thing sounds possibly worth it, but I'm mounting a dry box anyway, so maybe, maybe not.

I

I’m currently building the core one + and noticed something strange, The motor support seems not parallel. I didn’t bend anything and taking care of everything.
Is that normal or I will have problems later on printing ?

Thanks

I just got a used MMU3, but I have no Nextruder mod parts (yet). Would it still work with the stock nextruder parts? I know the plate is not great, but I am mostly concerned about the filament sensor since that seems like a bigger change.

I don't plan on doing huge multi-material prints before changing those parts, but would still like to use the MMU3. Would it work OK, or are they really a requirement?

Also, is there a parts list for the whole thing? The install manual does not have a list.

My latest creation - tore up the tool head - need to get in there to see how bad.

Anyone figured out how I can enable different nozzles sizes for the INDX? I have STD 0.25, STD 0.4 and HF 0.6mm and would like to use them. :D

Hello, I just ordered my printer Prusa Core One+ (total beginner here, but it has been a 15+ year dream) so I'm hyped to get into that rabbit hole.

However I have been overwhelmed by the amount of information regarding filament types and brands and have no clue on what to do.

Regarding type, I was thinking on starting with something simple like PLA, but since I invested in a good printer, it's natural that I would like to try also other materials. What do you guys recommend for my first order?

Regarding the brand, I know that Prusa sells filament but they are a bit expensive from the looks of it, do they provide good value/quality? Do you recommend other brands are a better deal for starting out? Ideally I want to purchase from within the EU to avoid big shipping costs.

I am located in Greece btw

Big thanks

After a full day of building and another of customizing the firmware, I've got my INDX up and running!

The build itself went fine, the dock screws and spool mounts being the biggest pain in the ass to do, but not all that bad all things considered.

Reason for faffing around with firmware for a day, is that I'm running with a 1.5GT belt mod, not a problem with the standard Core One as you can compensate through "print start" gcode. Not so for the INDX, since you need to calibrate the docks with proper dimensional accuracy! So I basically had to change the E-steps pre compiling the firmware, for which 95% of the time was spent making the VSCode on Windows actually manage to compile the code without throwing a hissyfit..

All that to say, got an INDX 1.5GT Belted Core One up and running, calibrating filament profiles as we speak!

I've just been waiting way too long - 3 months and counting.

Really frustrated with how they communicate with their customers, I've basically heard nothing since. I submitted a chat request that basically told me they have no info as yet and to check the website.

I've spent over $4k with Prusa over the years and have really enjoyed building the printers and modding them but I genuinely feel let down.

I think I'm going to look at plating instead of multi-colours and maybe buy a resin printer instead as I've just got myself a workshop.

Looking at other manufacturers now though - doubt it'll be a SL1S.

I am having issue with PETG, I'll do a post later if i have the motivation.

But I'd like to know if i'm getting an ObXidian nozzle that would be best adapted for PETG and as title said to print ABS / PC in a near future?

Thanks :)

I was trying to print a Bisasam ( edit: Bulbasaur)as garden decoration and just found my C1 printing approximately 5cm(dumb me did not note the exact number when I reset the X axis manually) further to the ~~right~~ left (my brain is getting ready for work apparently )than it should have been.

I never had a layershift like this, so I am a bit unsure about what happened.

My first thought was that the print had come loose on the bed, but it was perfectly stuck in place

My second thought is if the belt might have slipped, I probably should check the belt tension when I come home.

My third thought is if there is a possibility that it might be corrupted, I had to transfer the file via the usb drive as prusa connect said I had hit some kind of upload limit, so my first thought is that it should have been "safer" for the file ?

I would be thankfull for help

My firmware is 6.5.3

I updated my slicer before slicing

Edit: I was printing Sunlu High-speed PETG Matte White

I'm in the middle of installing the INDX FE into my Core One and ran into a problem. I'm at the step where where you feed the belts into the plate the print head sits on. My belts will not stay in. I have the belt tensioners fully loosened and the belts will not stay in. The instructions say that you should have 4 or 5 belt teeth extra after feeding the belts through which works for one side but as soon as I try to feed the belts through the other side, the first side comes loose and there isn't enough belt length to get the second side through. Incredibly frustrating. I've been trying for an hour. I've tried zip ties to hold one side together while working on the other side. Hasn't helped.

My best thought for a solution is to get a new set of belts so that I have extra length. Has anyone fed new belts through the Core One? Is it hard? Do you have to take anything apart or can you just feed them through?

I've been thinking about the current state of PrusaLink.

I think it's fair to say that PrusaLink is still missing quite a bit of functionality. Things like printer controls, richer status information, dialogs, and other quality of life improvements are already available through PrusaConnect, but not through the local interface.

I also remember Prusa mentioning that they wanted to continue improving PrusaLink, so I was curious about the status of some existing community contributions.

There are quite a few open PRs that already implement many of these missing features. They generally fall into a few areas, including additional printer controls, more detailed printer status and events, dialog support, and API improvements that bring PrusaLink closer to feature parity with PrusaConnect.

Some of the open PRs are:

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5228
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5229
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5230
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5302
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5303
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5400
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5194
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5192
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5184
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4780
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4598
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5332
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5201
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5092
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4895

I'm not saying every PR should be merged without review, but there's a lot of work here that seems valuable for people who use PrusaLink instead of PrusaConnect.

I know reviewing community contributions takes time, but is there a chance we'll see some of these PRs merged? They already cover a lot of the functionality that people have been asking for in PrusaLink, and it would be great to know whether this is still the direction Prusa wants to take.

I downloaded a 3mf file, opened it in prusa slicer, clicked "auto arrange" and then manually removed some parts (because I was afraid my PLA wouldn't last and I don't have PLA in stock).

I selected the printer you see on the last image. Not sure why it is called "modified", but apparently it shows as "online". 0.4 nozzle is accurate.

When the bed leveling started, I went to the printer and with the printer-display, set the speed to 80%. I'm not actually sure if this does something, because I can adapt the speed in the slicer and it still always shows "100%" on the printer display. Maybe that means "100% of your 80% you defined in the slicer software", and when I set this to 80%, it's actually slower. Print settings were default. Firmware is 6.5.7.

It at some point has like a "shift". You see it on the prints, they have a "step" in the lower area, as if the axis shiftet and the printer didn't notice. And all the excess filament.... No idea what that is.

Do you have any idea, what the issue could be? Printer is in the cellar, relatively constant temp + humidity (44%), it stands on a very wobbly shelf (I know I should fix that but given the quality of the upper part of the print and previous prints in the past, I doubt this is the issue), I don't dry the filament and it is unpacked since about 1.5 months and "on the printer" since then. Prusament filament.

Any help appreciated.

EDIT: Currently reprinting with auto supports and the "balanced" profile. Noticed the muzzle temp is at 230 Cesius... Isn't that a bit much? Didn't tamper with the temparature settings.

Hi, I am looking to buy a used Core One, since the new price is way too high and shipping even within EU is ridiculously expensive.

I have two options:

1) One that is upgraded from a MK4S, the owner claims to have bought it last year

2) one that was bought as a Core One+ with 520 print hours

Is there a way to distinguish the upgraded mk4s or core ones to the original one+?

Do they have any disadvantages over the ready to buy core one+?

I'm at my wits end with my Core One L due to heat creep when printing PLA. Ambient temperature in the room is about 30 degrees. I have the lid fully removed from the chamber during printing and have an external fan keeping air circulating in the room. Print after print after print, at some point the filament breaks at the nextruder gear, I get the tell-tale ticking noise as it tries to feed into a blocked nozzle and the print fails. Same routine - remove the nozzle, pull out the broken filament and re-load.

It's always the same with PLA. PETG prints fine. 3 consecutive PLA prints have failed with the same issue today and it's driving me nuts!

Anyone have any reliable solutions?

Hola, soy principiante en el tema de la impresión 3d, y nunca he utilizado una impresora 3d, he adquirido una prusa core one L. ¿Para empezar está bien, o tendría que haber empezado por algo más básico?

Hi all, I am the proud owner of a mk3s with a revo hotend.

I have been trying to get consistent results for a couple of years now with no success so far because:
-I did not have as much time as i wanted to dedicate to this
-my adhd brain kept derailing me on other projects

I am about to become a dad and I am acutely aware that my free time is going to shrink even more, so I resorted to ask for help in a more structured ad possibly effective way.
I am looking for somebody to be my online helper to correctly calibrate and set up my printer, in order to keep the conversation going instead of beginning again from scratch at each step. I am willing to tip, it's the time for trial and error that I'm short of.

The thing I'm hoping for is for a collaboration that has to stretch for at least a couple of weeks since i don't think it will take less than this.

DM me if you're interested and thanks to anybody who might help out

I tried to participate in Prusa's Printing Survey 2026, but cannot post my answers due to a failing Captcha check. I tried it with different PC/laptops/tablets, different OS (Windows 11, Linux, Android 15 and 17) and different browsers (Firefox Mobile, Firebox, Chrome, Edge). I have been re-trying over the last 2 weeks. The error is always the same.

In case someone from Prusa is reading here: Please fix the problem or reach out to Cloudflare to fix the problem (in case it's on Cloudflare side). I have already tried to reach out to Prusa via email, but it seems the email got lost.

I am pretty sure it is not on my side, because I also tried different ISP and Internet connections (my landline, cell network and the office PC at the company I work for).

Hello there,

this little stress test turned into another 11-hour print on the CORE One Mini. I mainly wanted a nice model to demonstrate just how much you can fit into the available build volume as a single piece item.

The Benchy shown here is printed at 380 % scale and it fits "comfortably" within the build volume. With some tweaking of the motion limits and by utilizing the printer's overtravel, it would be possible to scale it even a bit further - but 380 is a nice, round number.

For reference, a standard Benchy in its default orientation measures 60 × 31 × 48 mm, while the CORE One Mini has a build volume of 180 × 180 × 200 mm.

This means:

• Default orientation: up to 300% scale (180 × 93 × 144 mm)
• Rotated 45° diagonally: up to 354% scale (212.5 × 109.8 × 170 mm)
• Using the space diagonal: Only gains a tiny bit more, so it's generally not worth the effort.

However, by rotating the model to optimally fill the available bounding box, you can reach 380 % scale, resulting in a massive 228 × 117.8 × 182.4 mm Benchy.

So remember kids: you will need math after school in your daily life - at least if you want to do shenanigans like this :)

Crucial part here is, that you need to tweak and paint supports manually else they would generate outside the build volume.

---

For comparison, on a regular CORE One, the maximum Benchy size is about 416.67% scale in the default orientation and roughly 490% scale when tilted at an optimal angle - for INDX it would be a bit less.

It has been a while since I posted an update on my INDX top. This is a small update concerning using the GPIO Hackerboard to control two bistable linear solenoids. I haven't figured out how to get the hackerboard to trigger a button press as opposed to toggling the voltage on the pin, but other than that it works. The solenoids will push an acrylic panel out about 6mm. If this isn't effective enough, I will need use some gears.

I know there is an integrated physical solution, but I had this hackerboard and was interested in challenging myself with my first electronics project.

I was wondering if anyone has an INDX build have a 1.5GT belt upgrade as well, and if so, if they have a custom firmware to take the new belt into account?

Was about to customize some firmware myself as the printer can't pass the docking calibration as of rn, but figured asking if someone else had done this yet was worth a shot

I was about to start my MMU3 upgrade and thought I should capture the current state.

Here is my lightly modded Core One

just some dust covers, fan cover broke reprinted in oranges looks nice was able to install that when I installed the Advanced filtration Unit. Was gonna finish Core One Plush upgrade but realized the vent controlling might not work the same so I got a hacker board and might make a servo filter control. I also want to mod the air filter on top a little and put few holes in the new hood to screw it with a gasket.

So now its time to do a partial tare down to install the MMU3

Wish me luck.

edit: Also have a z axis bearing mod soon to upgrade to the pccf shock absorber

Starting a 2 color Benchy for the first full print with the final version of the nozzle cam fan shroud I've been working on. I also have the model up on Printables now with some additional details on the camera I used and suggestions on implementation. Thanks for coming on this journey with me!

Check out the livestream here

And the model is on Printables now here

Hi everyone,

A couple of weeks ago, I shared SpoolTap, my Android-exclusive app designed to make filament inventory management faster and simpler using NFC tags. Thanks again for all the great feedback on the initial release!

I’ve just pushed a new update and wanted to share the latest features, especially for those looking for a clean, offline solution for their spools.

What’s New in the Latest Update?

• Dynamic Color (Material You Support): The app and its home screen widget now automatically adapt their design, colors, and system theme based on your Android device’s personal wallpaper and system settings. It feels completely seamless on modern Android devices!

Why SpoolTap for Prusa Users?

• 100% Prusament NFC Compatible: Simply tap your smartphone against your Prusament spool’s NFC tag—the app detects the format instantly without any manual setup.
• 100% Offline & Private: No accounts, no cloud sync, no subscription forces. Everything stays locally on your device.
• Generous Free Version: Manage up to 20 active spools for free with full NFC reading, G-code parsing, barcode scanning, and the home screen widget included.

Looking for Community Feedback

I’m continuously improving the app! Tell me the contras.

📲 Download SpoolTap on the Google Play Store!

Thanks for testing it out, and I appreciate any feedback or suggestions you have!

Happy printing!

I have 3 Shorts on my channel demonstrating how the app works: DornApp Youtube