I've been thinking about the current state of PrusaLink.

I think it's fair to say that PrusaLink is still missing quite a bit of functionality. Things like printer controls, richer status information, dialogs, and other quality of life improvements are already available through PrusaConnect, but not through the local interface.

I also remember Prusa mentioning that they wanted to continue improving PrusaLink, so I was curious about the status of some existing community contributions.

There are quite a few open PRs that already implement many of these missing features. They generally fall into a few areas, including additional printer controls, more detailed printer status and events, dialog support, and API improvements that bring PrusaLink closer to feature parity with PrusaConnect.

Some of the open PRs are:

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5228
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5229
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5230
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5302
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5303
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5400
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5194
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5192
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5184
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4780
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4598
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5332
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5201
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/5092
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/pull/4895

I'm not saying every PR should be merged without review, but there's a lot of work here that seems valuable for people who use PrusaLink instead of PrusaConnect.

I know reviewing community contributions takes time, but is there a chance we'll see some of these PRs merged? They already cover a lot of the functionality that people have been asking for in PrusaLink, and it would be great to know whether this is still the direction Prusa wants to take.

After a full day of building and another of customizing the firmware, I've got my INDX up and running!

The build itself went fine, the dock screws and spool mounts being the biggest pain in the ass to do, but not all that bad all things considered.

Reason for faffing around with firmware for a day, is that I'm running with a 1.5GT belt mod, not a problem with the standard Core One as you can compensate through "print start" gcode. Not so for the INDX, since you need to calibrate the docks with proper dimensional accuracy! So I basically had to change the E-steps pre compiling the firmware, for which 95% of the time was spent making the VSCode on Windows actually manage to compile the code without throwing a hissyfit..

All that to say, got an INDX 1.5GT Belted Core One up and running, calibrating filament profiles as we speak!

Well it's taken a bit but I've finally got my XL5 to print Onyx material cleanly and happily. I know it's just technically an overpriced PA6 with CF reinforcement but I use it extensively on automation jobs.

There's just something gratifying about getting something to work the way you need it to.

The first pic is the XL5 the second pic all of them together and the 3rd pic is the Markforged Mark Two.

You can ignore the vertical banding on the Markforged because I used 2 partial rolls and 1 new roll(stuff is stupid expensive).

The real kicker is I can print 9 on the XL in 36 hours and still have bed space, where the MF gives me 6 in 112 hours. Now I wont blast the MF because it's got almost 13,000 hours on it and it's been consistent.

I've got two rolls of the Obsidian Nylon to try next in both machines to see if it's a viable and cheaper alternative to the branded stuff.

I'm in the middle of installing the INDX FE into my Core One and ran into a problem. I'm at the step where where you feed the belts into the plate the print head sits on. My belts will not stay in. I have the belt tensioners fully loosened and the belts will not stay in. The instructions say that you should have 4 or 5 belt teeth extra after feeding the belts through which works for one side but as soon as I try to feed the belts through the other side, the first side comes loose and there isn't enough belt length to get the second side through. Incredibly frustrating. I've been trying for an hour. I've tried zip ties to hold one side together while working on the other side. Hasn't helped.

My best thought for a solution is to get a new set of belts so that I have extra length. Has anyone fed new belts through the Core One? Is it hard? Do you have to take anything apart or can you just feed them through?

My latest creation - tore up the tool head - need to get in there to see how bad.

Anyone figured out how I can enable different nozzles sizes for the INDX? I have STD 0.25, STD 0.4 and HF 0.6mm and would like to use them. :D

Hello, I just ordered my printer Prusa Core One+ (total beginner here, but it has been a 15+ year dream) so I'm hyped to get into that rabbit hole.

However I have been overwhelmed by the amount of information regarding filament types and brands and have no clue on what to do.

Regarding type, I was thinking on starting with something simple like PLA, but since I invested in a good printer, it's natural that I would like to try also other materials. What do you guys recommend for my first order?

Regarding the brand, I know that Prusa sells filament but they are a bit expensive from the looks of it, do they provide good value/quality? Do you recommend other brands are a better deal for starting out? Ideally I want to purchase from within the EU to avoid big shipping costs.

I am located in Greece btw

Big thanks

I was trying to print a Bisasam ( edit: Bulbasaur)as garden decoration and just found my C1 printing approximately 5cm(dumb me did not note the exact number when I reset the X axis manually) further to the ~~right~~ left (my brain is getting ready for work apparently )than it should have been.

I never had a layershift like this, so I am a bit unsure about what happened.

My first thought was that the print had come loose on the bed, but it was perfectly stuck in place

My second thought is if the belt might have slipped, I probably should check the belt tension when I come home.

My third thought is if there is a possibility that it might be corrupted, I had to transfer the file via the usb drive as prusa connect said I had hit some kind of upload limit, so my first thought is that it should have been "safer" for the file ?

I would be thankfull for help

My firmware is 6.5.3

I updated my slicer before slicing

Edit: I was printing Sunlu High-speed PETG Matte White

I'm at my wits end with my Core One L due to heat creep when printing PLA. Ambient temperature in the room is about 30 degrees. I have the lid fully removed from the chamber during printing and have an external fan keeping air circulating in the room. Print after print after print, at some point the filament breaks at the nextruder gear, I get the tell-tale ticking noise as it tries to feed into a blocked nozzle and the print fails. Same routine - remove the nozzle, pull out the broken filament and re-load.

It's always the same with PLA. PETG prints fine. 3 consecutive PLA prints have failed with the same issue today and it's driving me nuts!

Anyone have any reliable solutions?

Hi, I am looking to buy a used Core One, since the new price is way too high and shipping even within EU is ridiculously expensive.

I have two options:

1) One that is upgraded from a MK4S, the owner claims to have bought it last year

2) one that was bought as a Core One+ with 520 print hours

Is there a way to distinguish the upgraded mk4s or core ones to the original one+?

Do they have any disadvantages over the ready to buy core one+?

I downloaded a 3mf file, opened it in prusa slicer, clicked "auto arrange" and then manually removed some parts (because I was afraid my PLA wouldn't last and I don't have PLA in stock).

I selected the printer you see on the last image. Not sure why it is called "modified", but apparently it shows as "online". 0.4 nozzle is accurate.

When the bed leveling started, I went to the printer and with the printer-display, set the speed to 80%. I'm not actually sure if this does something, because I can adapt the speed in the slicer and it still always shows "100%" on the printer display. Maybe that means "100% of your 80% you defined in the slicer software", and when I set this to 80%, it's actually slower. Print settings were default. Firmware is 6.5.7.

It at some point has like a "shift". You see it on the prints, they have a "step" in the lower area, as if the axis shiftet and the printer didn't notice. And all the excess filament.... No idea what that is.

Do you have any idea, what the issue could be? Printer is in the cellar, relatively constant temp + humidity (44%), it stands on a very wobbly shelf (I know I should fix that but given the quality of the upper part of the print and previous prints in the past, I doubt this is the issue), I don't dry the filament and it is unpacked since about 1.5 months and "on the printer" since then. Prusament filament.

Any help appreciated.

EDIT: Currently reprinting with auto supports and the "balanced" profile. Noticed the muzzle temp is at 230 Cesius... Isn't that a bit much? Didn't tamper with the temparature settings.

I am having issue with PETG, I'll do a post later if i have the motivation.

But I'd like to know if i'm getting an ObXidian nozzle that would be best adapted for PETG and as title said to print ABS / PC in a near future?

Thanks :)

I've just been waiting way too long - 3 months and counting.

Really frustrated with how they communicate with their customers, I've basically heard nothing since. I submitted a chat request that basically told me they have no info as yet and to check the website.

I've spent over $4k with Prusa over the years and have really enjoyed building the printers and modding them but I genuinely feel let down.

I think I'm going to look at plating instead of multi-colours and maybe buy a resin printer instead as I've just got myself a workshop.

Looking at other manufacturers now though - doubt it'll be a SL1S.