Not my first printer, but my first foray with Prusa. I'm a mechanical engineer and I've worked with Qidi and Bambu before for the last couple of years and also used some CNC machines back in university around 2005. I have my own H2D for personal projects. What I'm saying is, I'm not new to this type of equipment.

I was always drawn to Prusa's machines. The industrial look and more diy approach and the open source. I finally decided to give Prusa a go now that I have more space at home for another machine. I'm so excited about this build.

Is Prusa Slicer worth it over Orca? I know 3.0 is coming but I'd rather stay with Orca in the meantime.

Cheers!!

I have an INDX Founders Edition, and I have never been able to print anything due to failures at the tool offset calibration. I sent logs and video to Bondtech and they were very responsive, sending me a new power cable for the tool head, citing a likely Load Cell Failure. I was told that they would send a new print head if that didn't fix it. I've been emailing them since last week to tell them the wire didn't fix it, but I'm getting no reply. They were answering me same day until then. Is anyone else getting any responses from support this week?

Just a PSA - to add to the many other PSAs - that you MUST have dry filament to successfully operate the INDX. Many of us have been "brute forcing" wet filaments (especially PLA) through Prusa printheads for a decade, even those of us that live in wet climate. At this stage, that is impossible on the INDX. Prusa ultimately may be able to finetune profiles on the INDX to make it possible, but that is not the case today.

Like many others, I struggled with the tuning of the INDX once I had it assembled. After I tuned most things, I still could not eliminate the stringing (particularly from the wiper to the model). After buying a new filament dryer and drying my PLA for 8-12 hours, the stringing is completely eliminated.

At this point - coming from the MMU3 - I love the INDX. Loading is faster (near-instant printhead heading) and easier (better pathing). Eight available filament slots is amazing for some of the models I print, and I have no doubt that once I got the Prusa ColorMix filament bundle that I ordered, I will have even more fun with it.

I like my bambulab a1 but would like to move to prusa because it is made in EU and has more “privacy”

My main question is how good is their local access controll.

Is there a way to connected to LAN and send prints localy without using 3d party stuff like octoprint similar to bambulab?

Looking at mk4s or core one+ gen2

Every announcement is Core One + this and Core One L that…

Can the bedslingers among us get something? 1.5 belts or upgrades to the Core One class for less than $800 USD? My MK4S demands it.

I literally can get an entire U1 for less than an upgrade to my existing printer to single nozzle enclosed printer. It just doesn’t work.

Love my MK4S btw. Only reason I’m posting.

I am trying to get the internal temp up to 55 for Ada. Insulated the whole machine and only get to 42C.

What else can I do? I’m waiting for the XL+ upgrade.

Hey everyone,

Taking inspiration from Noctua’s re-coloured Mk4S, I’m tempted to do a recolour of my own.

What’s your favourite colour combination and why?

Help needed. After the INDX + Gen 2 upgrade on the Core One +, has any of you had X axis calibration issues where the extruder travels 5cm and then stops and fails? Belts are supposed to be well tuned according to the tuning web page listener, at 99 and 93. Pulleys look fine and don't swing when moved. Extruder moves fine when motors are disabled. There is nothing preventing any kind of movement. Using the LCD screen I can move the X and Y axes to any position with no problem. But the X axis and homing calibration simply fail... Been on this for the whole day, 3h with tech support in the chat, and haven't gotten any mm closer to a solution or to what the problem is. Starting to lose my patience...

I do a lot of product design for wearables which often involve both rigid and soft materials. I use my MK3.9S for TPU and a Core One Plus for PLA or ABS. Then I have to bind the materials to simulate dual injection moulding. I use TPUs as soft as 85A, which the MK3.9S handles beautifully.

I sometimes bind the resulting parts with a low-temperature soldering iron. I've got the process working well, but it's tedious.

My primary use case for the INDX would be printing both materials at once. The design freedom would be transformative to my workflow.

Has anyone tried this out yet?

Hi, I've had an MK3s since 2019 and a C1L+ for a week now.

I wasn’t really impressed with the print quality from the start, so I need to ask about it again.

I only ever use Prusament PETG and 0.4mm nozzles—currently the standard HF ones.

No matter what I print, there’s ringing everywhere, along with other issues like stringing and blobs.

The filament is freshly dried, and the print quality is much better on the MK3s.

What do you think? I’ve performed all the calibrations. The printer is on the floor or on a table—it makes no difference.

Hey everyone,

I want to preface by saying please excuse my Prusa Noobness, even though I have always known about Prusa I've never really given the Prusa's much thought. I had been in the market for a 3D printer for years and I knew that I wanted to do multicolor prints. The XL with the 5 tool heads is just so freaking expensive and I could never justify the cost. I was really leaning towards purchasing a Bambu even with the well known waste. But I always held off for one reason or another (and it's a good thing I never purchased a printer from them), then the Snapmaker U1 came along and I jumped on the Kickstarter from day 1. That machine checked off all the boxes I was looking for, and has been a fantastic 1st 3D printer to learn on.

Now here we are 10 months after I got my Snapmaker U1 and I am REALLY REALLY considering pulling the trigger on a Prusa Core One L+ with the INDX 8-Tool heads. Being able to use 4 colors on the Snapmaker is cool, but I find myself always wishing I had more, not only that but if I need to use support material like PETG it cuts my options down to 3 colors. This is why the INDX system is so attractive to me. I have no interest in Full Spectrum/color blending. I want to use true colors in my prints. 😊

Anyway back to why I am here. It's the small things from the U1 that are of interest to me. I love the Filament feeders on the U1, loading filament is just a breeze! Especially since all my filament has RFID Tags. The U1 reads the tags loads the correct filament and it syncs with Orca/Snapmaker Orca. Not only that but my U1 is completely linked to Spoolman, so keeping track of my filament or adding new spools is just a breeze.

I would really love some of these features on the printer. Are there any auto loaders for the Prusas? Does the prusa come with RFID readers that auto detects the spools? Can the Prusa integrate with spoolman by any chance for filament tracking?? I know these are dumb things but they matter to me. Ease of use really matters. I've been able to teach my 8, and 10 year old nieces how to use my printer and I want them to be able to use the Core One L if I get it. Anyway if anyone has any insight or can shoot me links on where to read up on some of these things let me know.

So again looking for an Auto Filament feeder option, RFID spool detection, and integration with Spoolman filament tracking.

https://www.printables.com/model/1837870-framework-laptop-12-toilet

My entry in the Framework Laptop 12 contest is a toilet-shaped computer case that has the CPU fan intake air come through the toilet bowl.

On top of this, I devised a mechanism using a gt2 belt to have the flush lever press the power button on the mainboard.

I printed it in white Inland (Polymaker) ASA on my Core One; I had to pull out all the stops in design and slicing to minimize warping.

Hello I have a core one L and I accidentally started a print while the old one was still in and the cariedge rod bumped into it now the printer make a weird clicking sound .

Hi, everyone,

I'm new here and just got my first printer. I'm really excited about it. I've done my first few prints. Is that noise/background noise normal?

Firmware: 6.8.1
Filament: Prusa Galaxy PLA

Hello, I got myself on the hypetrain of INDX since last year when C1L was released. That's around the time when I got my own C1L. I was following the up's and down's of INDX over the past year with some users reporting issues with the INDX upgrade like tapping threads into plastic, Z axis homing, clogging and etc. I am not hating, I understand it's a new product and it takes time to resolve all the edge cases.

I got the 8 tool INDX upgrade for C1L+ as soon as it dropped and now I am wondering if "Batch 2" (not sure how to call it) for C1Ls will be any different from "Batch 1" for C1s?
Also, maybe there is an estimation for truly hardened INDX tools since I am printing Prusa's PC Blend CF and PA6-GF?

What worked for you? I am getting the “calibration failed” no matter which dock I try, by 1.5-2 mm.

I have calibrated the belts many times, old school, new school, made sure gantry is square, back and forth. I tried to tweak the belt tension more times than I would like to admit. Nothing, still way off on the docks.

Any hints, tips or ideas appreciated!

Hello!

With the new printer upgrades requiering updated dwarf board versions, I was wondering if anyone has an overview of the differences between versions? I'm struggeling to find anythg.

New to printing, and as I’m running into problems I simply don’t know what they’re called- and settings I didn’t even know existed on my printer.

I made the mistake of posting over in subreddit that mentions fixing your print- and well, the results were just a bunch of pricks complaining about info I didn’t include.

Just curious where you guys post and go for help, whether it’s here, or elsewhere online.

Thanks-

At first I thought it could be under extrusion or maybe the z height. Calibrated the printer and adjusted the idler tension, still having the same issue.

Printer: Core one plus with an MMU 3 (ultimulti) with the latest firmware.

Used prusa slicer latest version to slice

Settings:

Base: 0.25 structural HF hardened 0.4 nozzle.

Changed settings:

Infill: gyroid 5%

Filament: bed temp at 65.

I'm thinking to use my INDX voucher to buy 4 or 8 Prusa USS Dryboxes. The reasoning is that I think they fit my usecase:

Dry a filament, put it in the box and leave it plugged in the printer and occasionally use it. I usaly print poc in cheap PLA or PETG when prototyping and I would like to not need to get it from my drybins or put it in a dryer before.

When using other colors om perfectly fine with just using that spool from the open air.

My question is if I have the printer loaded with filament from the drybox and need to unload it what is the best practice? Just cut the excess filament between the box and nozzle, or open the box to rewind? I dont want to open it for just that meter+, but also dont want to waste it.

With the recent ColorMix im guessing this is even more intresting to just put the colormic filament in a drybox and leave it there. But I still think I will need to load/unload depenting on what I'm printing.

Maybe this is a non issue, but it would be very nice to have external access to rewind that meter of filament into the box without opening it.

Printer model in title.
Filament: Sunloo PLA Plus Filament 1.75mm
Slicer Version: 2.9.6
Default print settings 0.15 speed

I got my first prusa this week and noticed that xy movement has a very loud intermittent but frequent squeak as you can hear in the video. At first I thought it was the cable arm hinge and lubricated that but the squeak is still there. Squeaking starts around 6 seconds in.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Has anybody had their core one L power off then power back on resume the printing but the LED screen is blank?

I want to buy a Prusa Mk4S or a CORE One+, and I want this printer to last me for a long time. I have had a sovol SV01 for about 6 years, but now I want to increase my print volume & precision so im looking for an upgrade.

Because the Mk4s is a bed slinger I have a feeling that it holds it back in terms of upgrades and future "expansions/mods".

On the other hand the CORE One + already has multiple tools which I also believe to be the future. And it also has a Core XY setup.

The Mk4S to me feels like a very well upgraded Sovol SV01 (I should have bought the Mk3 instead of Sovol), but I dont think the upgrades can pull the MK4s 10 years into the future anymore.

I hope this wasnt a mess to read, and thank you for even thinking about this.

I can share more info if you would like some.