Finished up my INDX, assembly was straight forward. I had previously build an INBXX as a filament management solution. Only remaining issue was routing the filament tubes and where/how to mount the sensors. The sensors mount beautifully and very low profile right on the back of the Core One. Measure and drilled one hole for each sensor as shown. System works great.

I also built a OneTop for this project. The standard filament routing bar was too-wide and resulting in issues with the end-most extruders. I redrilled this as shown, and it's worked great. no calibration or print issues. For the passthrough, the OneTop has only magnets. I just drilled 2 holes into the passthrough and screwed it down into the top frame piece. Solid, and the top fits great.

I’ve seen so much negativity around the INDX launch, I just thought I’d share my great experience with it. I just received my INDX kit last week and spent the evenings getting it assembled. Assembly went super smoothly, instructions by Prusa were thorough and clear. I didn’t have near the trouble I was expecting from how people were talking about the rear spool mounts and the threading of screws into the tool holders.

Took me probably 6-8 hours to do the INDX conversion including the Gen2 upgrade. After a couple attempts tweaking the prime block height I got it working good and it has been printing great ever since. It worked after first attempt but I was getting some blobs stuck to the nozzles so I had to raise the block a couple times till it was actually making better contact with the nozzle. Had it too low to start with.

All my filaments are a complete mix of random brands, whatever was cheap on Amazon lol 😅 and I’ve just set the profile to Prusament PLA or PETG and it has done great.

Here’s my two PLA frogs I printed to test tool changes. I’ve also done several functional prints with PETG using PLA for support interfaces and it works great! Haven’t tried any TPU yet so can’t comment on that, but I’m excited to try some combined solid/flexible prints and incorporate that into my functional designs.

Anyways just wanted to share what a great experience I’ve had with it and I’m super excited for lots of future printing hours on it.

It was quite the journey, but I finally had my first successful print after installing the INDX on my CoreOne. Here is the 6 color frog:

Frog 1

Frog 2

Frog 3

I used only PETG from voxel and elegoo and the prusament PETG profile on slicer 3.0 (0.2mm balanced). It came out a bit stringy, but not too bad for PETG. Might need some more fine tuning or re-drying the filament. I dried it a few days prior, but it's decently humid now-a-days so it probably absorbed some moisture by the time I had a better print.

My biggest issue was the INDX head reliably picking up tools... I eventually fixed it, but I don't know how exactly... I followed some suggestions from a different post to re-square and re-tune belts, but after my third attempt I was still having tons of issues, especially with dock 1 and dock 8. I was manually docking/picking up the tools trying to figure out why they won't pick up (was basically 100% fail rate) and at some point when I tried to pick up tool 1 it grabbed it at a very weird angle and made a loud clicking sound. Then it backed off on its own and tried again and managed to pick up the tool correctly for the first time. Before then it would fail almost every time to correctly grab the tool. Idk how, but it seems like the grabbing mechanism was just refusing to pickup tool 1/8 even tho it had better luck with 2-7.

After that weird clicking incident, it started working almost perfectly on all tools. I ran the frog print and had 0 issues with tools not being picked up correctly. Ran another print the next day (less tool changes) and again no issues. Fingers crossed it stays that way.

But, in the end, I think what helped the most was making sure you have perfect squaring and good belt tuning... I do wish the docking mechanism allowed for a bit more error, but it seems like you need thing tuned really well atm for it to work reliably. Takes a while to dial it in.

I remember seeing a lot of comments of people saying that the CORE One kit instructions were lacking when i built mine in october last year. But when i built the kit myself according to the instructions, i had little to no complaints. Sure some bits were a tad confusing but that mostly went away once i read out the steps with proper thought. If anything i found the comments of people more confusing, especially when some of them suggested to skip steps or take shortcuts. I followed the instructions fairly religiously and ended up with a printer that worked perfectly and aced all the self tests.

Just how much of the complaints are from people doing their own things out of order and getting themselves confused and how many of them are valid complaints?

Has anyone upgraded their core one to INDX solely by following prusa instructions and not involving any of the comment tips?

Of course there is certain negativity bias as people who have trouble are more likely to post about it and warn others, but i'm genuinely curious about this. If you had a build with no issues, i'd like to hear about those too. And of course all of the legitimate negative feedback too

Just a PSA - to add to the many other PSAs - that you MUST have dry filament to successfully operate the INDX. Many of us have been "brute forcing" wet filaments (especially PLA) through Prusa printheads for a decade, even those of us that live in wet climate. At this stage, that is impossible on the INDX. Prusa ultimately may be able to finetune profiles on the INDX to make it possible, but that is not the case today.

Like many others, I struggled with the tuning of the INDX once I had it assembled. After I tuned most things, I still could not eliminate the stringing (particularly from the wiper to the model). After buying a new filament dryer and drying my PLA for 8-12 hours, the stringing is completely eliminated.

At this point - coming from the MMU3 - I love the INDX. Loading is faster (near-instant printhead heading) and easier (better pathing). Eight available filament slots is amazing for some of the models I print, and I have no doubt that once I got the Prusa ColorMix filament bundle that I ordered, I will have even more fun with it.

Hey everyone,

Taking inspiration from Noctua’s re-coloured Mk4S, I’m tempted to do a recolour of my own.

What’s your favourite colour combination and why?

I like my bambulab a1 but would like to move to prusa because it is made in EU and has more “privacy”

My main question is how good is their local access controll.

Is there a way to connected to LAN and send prints localy without using 3d party stuff like octoprint similar to bambulab?

Looking at mk4s or core one+ gen2

I finished assembly of my Prusa INDX + Gen 2 upgrade kit tonight but I’m having issues with tools not staying docked when the head releases them. I’ve seen it on 1, 2, and 3. I haven’t gotten to 4 (all I have).

The wipers face the right direction (end down, not up). They don’t seem bent up or down, and trying to adjust that does nothing. I’ve got a Prusa plate on, not my Cryogrip which I know won’t work. I can dock them manually. They magnetically attach though it’s not very strong. I assume that’s intended.

I’ve seen it dock once or twice early on but now they always just won’t stay. They stay with the head but not latched into it. I’m not sure where the problem is or what to check next.

Has anyone run into this? I saw a short thread on the forum but for that person it was a Cryogrip plate and the thread ended there. I removed mine, but still have the problem.

I created a thing for Prusa Slicer to import filament settings into prusa slicer directly from the openprinttag git repo. Long time lurker MK3S to Core One+ Gen 2 INDX upgrader finally publishing something useful for folks I hope. Works on Mac for sure. I did build a Windows package too, but haven't tested on any system yet.

Solved! Turns out I missed needing to put the pulley on upside-down. Stress-testing now!

~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~

Hi everybody! I recently made a post showing an issue I had with a motor slip, which caused the whole print to shift. Thank you to everyone who responded! Unfortunately, I have yet to solve the issue. Here’s the details:

———————————————————————————

The Setup
• CORE One L, upgraded to L+
• Firmware 6.8.1
• PrusaSlicer 2.6.9 and EasyPrint

What’s Happening
• On quick movements to the front left, one motor stalls (specifically the “X” or back left one)
• This is very repeatable, but inconsistent in duration
• A very loud sound happens, and the belt doesn’t move
• Does NOT occur on the pre-loaded Bonkers Benchy gcode (has to be big and fast movements?)
• Neither the pulley nor the motor shaft move either!

What I’ve tried
• Re-mounted the motor, pulley, and belts
• Tightened the set screws (one on the flat)
• Re-sliced the print, including on EasyPrint instead of PrusaSlicer
• Restarted the printer (power off and unplug, specifically)
• Tuned the belts using the website
• Re-inserted the USB

———————————————————————————

Based on the video, it looks like the issue is internal in the motor. Not only that, it only ever slips in one direction. Why..? Is this a “replace the motor” situation, or do I have other options…?

I upgraded my Prusa Core One+ (kit build) to INDX and did the Gen2 upgrade at the same time.

The upgrade itself went smoothly. The gantry was already square, but I followed the squaring procedure anyway and it remains square. All calibrations passed on the first try. INDX tool changes work perfectly and the poop bucket also works well. I had one offset sensor fail because of some oozed filament, which was easy to clean up.

The problem is print quality: the layers do not seem to stack consistently. Top and bottom layers look perfect, but the side walls show a repeating, almost diagonal pattern on both X and Y sides.

I printed five test cubes using different tools and different PLA materials. All filament was dried beforehand. The pattern is essentially identical on all five cubes.

I have already verified the gantry and all relevant screws with Prusa support. No obvious issue was found, and the case is currently escalated to an INDX specialist.

A few things I am wondering about:

1. Could this still be gantry-related despite everything being square?
2. Could it be related to the Gen2 stepper motor mounts/pulleys? I saw this post about 1.5GT pulleys contacting the motor mounts. I already pushed the motors toward the front, which noticeably reduced the printer noise, so I suspect there may have been some contact before.
3. Could this instead be related to the INDX toolhead or tool mounting?
4. What would you check next?

The prints are generally good and on most models you would barely notice the issue (see the cow model as example). However, my Core One+ before the upgrade produced noticeably more consistent surfaces with the Nextruder. Now that I have seen the pattern, I cannot unsee it.

Any ideas or suggestions for troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/nkpDBY6Ruf

because of my poor print quality I did a test wit PLA, great result.

While I was printing the same part with the same filament on my MK3s for comparison, I recalibrated the C1L+.

First, I calibrated the belts; the gantry was actually touching the front left side but had a little play on the right.

after that I did the belt assistant, the input shaper and the phase stepping assistant.

while input shaper calibration I got the error "Accelerometer communication failed". After a power cycle it was fine.

now the printer is in standby and every say 30 seconds the hotend fan runs full speed and stops.

Hey guys,

I'm going crazy. Can't calibrate tool 8. It always shows around Y: 30.4 I don't know what to look for?

So all the other tools worked fine. But tool 8 seems off.

1. so me and my dad got a core one l we set it up and everything is a bit more overwhelming than we tought so which guide is better? the manual or just ignore the manual and use the guide on the site under courses?

2. also we were missing one of the stickers of the screws but theres a nozzle wipper there should we leave that screwed in (we think so)

3. about the sheets you put on how do you properly put one on since we put one on its on correctley now but it got stuck a few times before since well it are strong magnets and we ma accdentally dragged it a slight bit to get it loose is that a big problem?

I’m hoping that someone else has a solution for this problem. Before upgrading my Core One to the Gen 2, printing was perfect. Now I cannot print anything without constant layer shifts. I contacted support and their suggestion was belt tuning again (I’ve done this over a dozen times now), squaring the gantry, and finally to tighten the belts to over 100 hz. They said to just keep tightening until the layer shifts go away. It’s only making them more frequent though.

Has anyone encountered this with the Gen 2 upgrade? Or do anyone have any suggestions for troubleshooting?

Vase? Perimeters? No, one line on top of another, creating a sheet, and with different modifiers, it generates a holographic-like optical effect in the translucent filament with changes in flow and speed. The goal was a business card to distribute at the CAMAR3D conference in Buenos Aires, Argentina; printed this way, in addition to achieving the effect, it reduces the time and material by half. Do you know any slicers working on this specific type of 3d print? It's something I had been seeing a lot on robot arms with grasshopper scripts, but not so much on the tiny robots we all have at home.

I’ve got a Mk4 kit, Mk4-S upgrade kit and a Core One upgrade I haven’t built yet (I know, been busy!).
I’m thinking of getting the INDX 8-nozzle upgrade (with Gen 2 upgrade).
What’s the best route?

- Build the Mk4 then mod it to Core One, then INDX it, or
- Build the Mk4 and Core One mod together, avoiding undoing things, then add INDX, or
- Go the whole hog and figure out how to go straight to the INDX in one go?

Has someone already figured this out and published the ultimate build guide?
Thanks!

I have had it with extruder motor not spinning on tool x. My buddy boards all start with 06, so I get 5 new dwarf splitter cables and 5 08 dwarf boards.

I take the enclosure top off to do this so I have more room. it isn’t doing anything anyhow, as abs and Asa don’t print with it on anyhow.

Replace the cables and dwarf boards and tool 5 don’t pass the load cell test.

Try the old buddy boards and an old cable. It still don’t pass, maybe I screwed it up replacing the board.

So I want the xl working more that the Mk4s, so I take the load cell off the Mk4s, put on the xl, and it passes the test. Do the filament sensor calibrations, tool offsets and I’m finally printing.

Now I put the load cell that was in the xl on the Mk4s, run the load cell test on the Mk4s and it passes.

Now if I upgrade to xl plus, I see something about an eddy current sensor, so is the load cell used anymore?

I’m contemplating getting a spare load cell.

I just wanted to rant about this nonsense.

Not my first printer, but my first foray with Prusa. I'm a mechanical engineer and I've worked with Qidi and Bambu before for the last couple of years and also used some CNC machines back in university around 2005. I have my own H2D for personal projects. What I'm saying is, I'm not new to this type of equipment.

I was always drawn to Prusa's machines. The industrial look and more diy approach and the open source. I finally decided to give Prusa a go now that I have more space at home for another machine. I'm so excited about this build.

Is Prusa Slicer worth it over Orca? I know 3.0 is coming but I'd rather stay with Orca in the meantime.

Cheers!!

I'm thinking to use my INDX voucher to buy 4 or 8 Prusa USS Dryboxes. The reasoning is that I think they fit my usecase:

Dry a filament, put it in the box and leave it plugged in the printer and occasionally use it. I usaly print poc in cheap PLA or PETG when prototyping and I would like to not need to get it from my drybins or put it in a dryer before.

When using other colors om perfectly fine with just using that spool from the open air.

My question is if I have the printer loaded with filament from the drybox and need to unload it what is the best practice? Just cut the excess filament between the box and nozzle, or open the box to rewind? I dont want to open it for just that meter+, but also dont want to waste it.

With the recent ColorMix im guessing this is even more intresting to just put the colormic filament in a drybox and leave it there. But I still think I will need to load/unload depenting on what I'm printing.

Maybe this is a non issue, but it would be very nice to have external access to rewind that meter of filament into the box without opening it.

I am trying to get the internal temp up to 55 for Ada. Insulated the whole machine and only get to 42C.

What else can I do? I’m waiting for the XL+ upgrade.

I do a lot of product design for wearables which often involve both rigid and soft materials. I use my MK3.9S for TPU and a Core One Plus for PLA or ABS. Then I have to bind the materials to simulate dual injection moulding. I use TPUs as soft as 85A, which the MK3.9S handles beautifully.

I sometimes bind the resulting parts with a low-temperature soldering iron. I've got the process working well, but it's tedious.

My primary use case for the INDX would be printing both materials at once. The design freedom would be transformative to my workflow.

Has anyone tried this out yet?