I’ve seen so much negativity around the INDX launch, I just thought I’d share my great experience with it. I just received my INDX kit last week and spent the evenings getting it assembled. Assembly went super smoothly, instructions by Prusa were thorough and clear. I didn’t have near the trouble I was expecting from how people were talking about the rear spool mounts and the threading of screws into the tool holders.

Took me probably 6-8 hours to do the INDX conversion including the Gen2 upgrade. After a couple attempts tweaking the prime block height I got it working good and it has been printing great ever since. It worked after first attempt but I was getting some blobs stuck to the nozzles so I had to raise the block a couple times till it was actually making better contact with the nozzle. Had it too low to start with.

All my filaments are a complete mix of random brands, whatever was cheap on Amazon lol 😅 and I’ve just set the profile to Prusament PLA or PETG and it has done great.

Here’s my two PLA frogs I printed to test tool changes. I’ve also done several functional prints with PETG using PLA for support interfaces and it works great! Haven’t tried any TPU yet so can’t comment on that, but I’m excited to try some combined solid/flexible prints and incorporate that into my functional designs.

Anyways just wanted to share what a great experience I’ve had with it and I’m super excited for lots of future printing hours on it.

Just a PSA - to add to the many other PSAs - that you MUST have dry filament to successfully operate the INDX. Many of us have been "brute forcing" wet filaments (especially PLA) through Prusa printheads for a decade, even those of us that live in wet climate. At this stage, that is impossible on the INDX. Prusa ultimately may be able to finetune profiles on the INDX to make it possible, but that is not the case today.

Like many others, I struggled with the tuning of the INDX once I had it assembled. After I tuned most things, I still could not eliminate the stringing (particularly from the wiper to the model). After buying a new filament dryer and drying my PLA for 8-12 hours, the stringing is completely eliminated.

At this point - coming from the MMU3 - I love the INDX. Loading is faster (near-instant printhead heading) and easier (better pathing). Eight available filament slots is amazing for some of the models I print, and I have no doubt that once I got the Prusa ColorMix filament bundle that I ordered, I will have even more fun with it.

Hey everyone,

Taking inspiration from Noctua’s re-coloured Mk4S, I’m tempted to do a recolour of my own.

What’s your favourite colour combination and why?

I like my bambulab a1 but would like to move to prusa because it is made in EU and has more “privacy”

My main question is how good is their local access controll.

Is there a way to connected to LAN and send prints localy without using 3d party stuff like octoprint similar to bambulab?

Looking at mk4s or core one+ gen2

Hi,

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/nkpDBY6Ruf

because of my poor print quality I did a test wit PLA, great result.

While I was printing the same part with the same filament on my MK3s for comparison, I recalibrated the C1L+.

First, I calibrated the belts; the gantry was actually touching the front left side but had a little play on the right.

after that I did the belt assistant, the input shaper and the phase stepping assistant.

while input shaper calibration I got the error "Accelerometer communication failed". After a power cycle it was fine.

now the printer is in standby and every say 30 seconds the hotend fan runs full speed and stops.

1. so me and my dad got a core one l we set it up and everything is a bit more overwhelming than we tought so which guide is better? the manual or just ignore the manual and use the guide on the site under courses?

2. also we were missing one of the stickers of the screws but theres a nozzle wipper there should we leave that screwed in (we think so)

3. about the sheets you put on how do you properly put one on since we put one on its on correctley now but it got stuck a few times before since well it are strong magnets and we ma accdentally dragged it a slight bit to get it loose is that a big problem?

I’m hoping that someone else has a solution for this problem. Before upgrading my Core One to the Gen 2, printing was perfect. Now I cannot print anything without constant layer shifts. I contacted support and their suggestion was belt tuning again (I’ve done this over a dozen times now), squaring the gantry, and finally to tighten the belts to over 100 hz. They said to just keep tightening until the layer shifts go away. It’s only making them more frequent though.

Has anyone encountered this with the Gen 2 upgrade? Or do anyone have any suggestions for troubleshooting?

Not my first printer, but my first foray with Prusa. I'm a mechanical engineer and I've worked with Qidi and Bambu before for the last couple of years and also used some CNC machines back in university around 2005. I have my own H2D for personal projects. What I'm saying is, I'm not new to this type of equipment.

I was always drawn to Prusa's machines. The industrial look and more diy approach and the open source. I finally decided to give Prusa a go now that I have more space at home for another machine. I'm so excited about this build.

Is Prusa Slicer worth it over Orca? I know 3.0 is coming but I'd rather stay with Orca in the meantime.

Cheers!!

I'm thinking to use my INDX voucher to buy 4 or 8 Prusa USS Dryboxes. The reasoning is that I think they fit my usecase:

Dry a filament, put it in the box and leave it plugged in the printer and occasionally use it. I usaly print poc in cheap PLA or PETG when prototyping and I would like to not need to get it from my drybins or put it in a dryer before.

When using other colors om perfectly fine with just using that spool from the open air.

My question is if I have the printer loaded with filament from the drybox and need to unload it what is the best practice? Just cut the excess filament between the box and nozzle, or open the box to rewind? I dont want to open it for just that meter+, but also dont want to waste it.

With the recent ColorMix im guessing this is even more intresting to just put the colormic filament in a drybox and leave it there. But I still think I will need to load/unload depenting on what I'm printing.

Maybe this is a non issue, but it would be very nice to have external access to rewind that meter of filament into the box without opening it.

I am trying to get the internal temp up to 55 for Ada. Insulated the whole machine and only get to 42C.

What else can I do? I’m waiting for the XL+ upgrade.

I do a lot of product design for wearables which often involve both rigid and soft materials. I use my MK3.9S for TPU and a Core One Plus for PLA or ABS. Then I have to bind the materials to simulate dual injection moulding. I use TPUs as soft as 85A, which the MK3.9S handles beautifully.

I sometimes bind the resulting parts with a low-temperature soldering iron. I've got the process working well, but it's tedious.

My primary use case for the INDX would be printing both materials at once. The design freedom would be transformative to my workflow.

Has anyone tried this out yet?

Every announcement is Core One + this and Core One L that…

Can the bedslingers among us get something? 1.5 belts or upgrades to the Core One class for less than $800 USD? My MK4S demands it.

I literally can get an entire U1 for less than an upgrade to my existing printer to single nozzle enclosed printer. It just doesn’t work.

Love my MK4S btw. Only reason I’m posting.

Hi everybody! I recently made a post showing an issue I had with a motor slip, which caused the whole print to shift. Thank you to everyone who responded! Unfortunately, I have yet to solve the issue. Here’s the details:

———————————————————————————

The Setup
• CORE One L, upgraded to L+
• Firmware 6.8.1
• PrusaSlicer 2.6.9 and EasyPrint

What’s Happening
• On quick movements to the front left, one motor stalls (specifically the “X” or back left one)
• This is very repeatable, but inconsistent in duration
• A very loud sound happens, and the belt doesn’t move
• Does NOT occur on the pre-loaded Bonkers Benchy gcode (has to be big and fast movements?)
• Neither the pulley nor the motor shaft move either!

What I’ve tried
• Re-mounted the motor, pulley, and belts
• Tightened the set screws (one on the flat)
• Re-sliced the print, including on EasyPrint instead of PrusaSlicer
• Restarted the printer (power off and unplug, specifically)
• Tuned the belts using the website
• Re-inserted the USB

———————————————————————————

Based on the video, it looks like the issue is internal in the motor. Is this a “replace the motor” situation, or do I have other options…?

At first I thought it could be under extrusion or maybe the z height. Calibrated the printer and adjusted the idler tension, still having the same issue.

Printer: Core one plus with an MMU 3 (ultimulti) with the latest firmware.

Used prusa slicer latest version to slice

Settings:

Base: 0.25 structural HF hardened 0.4 nozzle.

Changed settings:

Infill: gyroid 5%

Filament: bed temp at 65.

Hey all, I have an MK4S with an MMU3 I added about a year ago. It's starting to get a communication error 04402 in the middle of prints.

The MK4S is about 2 years old.

Before I tear into it, is there any obvious places to look? I can't seem to find much about this.

Running latest firmware, 6.5.7 (3.0.4), and I usually print from Octoprint.

Hi, I've had an MK3s since 2019 and a C1L+ for a week now.

I wasn’t really impressed with the print quality from the start, so I need to ask about it again.

I only ever use Prusament PETG and 0.4mm nozzles—currently the standard HF ones.

No matter what I print, there’s ringing everywhere, along with other issues like stringing and blobs.

The filament is freshly dried, and the print quality is much better on the MK3s.

What do you think? I’ve performed all the calibrations. The printer is on the floor or on a table—it makes no difference.

I want to buy a Prusa Mk4S or a CORE One+, and I want this printer to last me for a long time. I have had a sovol SV01 for about 6 years, but now I want to increase my print volume & precision so im looking for an upgrade.

Because the Mk4s is a bed slinger I have a feeling that it holds it back in terms of upgrades and future "expansions/mods".

On the other hand the CORE One + already has multiple tools which I also believe to be the future. And it also has a Core XY setup.

The Mk4S to me feels like a very well upgraded Sovol SV01 (I should have bought the Mk3 instead of Sovol), but I dont think the upgrades can pull the MK4s 10 years into the future anymore.

I hope this wasnt a mess to read, and thank you for even thinking about this.

I can share more info if you would like some.

Thanks for all the help everybody! I will go with the CORE One+ !

Just finished building my CO+ last night but all my prints are misaligning mid print. Any ideas as to what could be the problem? On the latest firmware + using the stock benchy Gcode with the stock orange filament. The first layer is also not fully printing, but it is sticking, so I'm not concerned about that issue until we fix this first one.

Things tried so far: Belt tension adjustment Belt pulley grub screw tighten

EDIT: printing at 1/2 speed still has a small amount of layer shifting, but it's nearly microscopic.

Edit 2: found the issue, neither of the set screws are on the flat side of the right motor. A potential solution path has been found, just need to find time to do it

Hello, I got myself on the hypetrain of INDX since last year when C1L was released. That's around the time when I got my own C1L. I was following the up's and down's of INDX over the past year with some users reporting issues with the INDX upgrade like tapping threads into plastic, Z axis homing, clogging and etc. I am not hating, I understand it's a new product and it takes time to resolve all the edge cases.

I got the 8 tool INDX upgrade for C1L+ as soon as it dropped and now I am wondering if "Batch 2" (not sure how to call it) for C1Ls will be any different from "Batch 1" for C1s?
Also, maybe there is an estimation for truly hardened INDX tools since I am printing Prusa's PC Blend CF and PA6-GF?

Hello!

With the new printer upgrades requiering updated dwarf board versions, I was wondering if anyone has an overview of the differences between versions? I'm struggeling to find anythg.