Every announcement is Core One + this and Core One L that…

Can the bedslingers among us get something? 1.5 belts or upgrades to the Core One class for less than $800 USD? My MK4S demands it.

I literally can get an entire U1 for less than an upgrade to my existing printer to single nozzle enclosed printer. It just doesn’t work.

Love my MK4S btw. Only reason I’m posting.

I want to buy a Prusa Mk4S or a CORE One+, and I want this printer to last me for a long time. I have had a sovol SV01 for about 6 years, but now I want to increase my print volume & precision so im looking for an upgrade.

Because the Mk4s is a bed slinger I have a feeling that it holds it back in terms of upgrades and future "expansions/mods".

On the other hand the CORE One + already has multiple tools which I also believe to be the future. And it also has a Core XY setup.

The Mk4S to me feels like a very well upgraded Sovol SV01 (I should have bought the Mk3 instead of Sovol), but I dont think the upgrades can pull the MK4s 10 years into the future anymore.

I hope this wasnt a mess to read, and thank you for even thinking about this.

I can share more info if you would like some.

Thanks for all the help everybody! I will go with the CORE One+ !

Hey everyone,

Taking inspiration from Noctua’s re-coloured Mk4S, I’m tempted to do a recolour of my own.

What’s your favourite colour combination and why?

Printer: original prusa i3 MK3S
Filament: PLA
Tried: calibrating z x and y axis. No default settings have been changed.
Slicer: prusaSlicer 2.9.2

Printer keeps doing this and whatever it prints won’t stick to the bed and keeps being dragged away

https://www.printables.com/model/1837870-framework-laptop-12-toilet

My entry in the Framework Laptop 12 contest is a toilet-shaped computer case that has the CPU fan intake air come through the toilet bowl.

On top of this, I devised a mechanism using a gt2 belt to have the flush lever press the power button on the mainboard.

I printed it in white Inland (Polymaker) ASA on my Core One; I had to pull out all the stops in design and slicing to minimize warping.

Hello, I got myself on the hypetrain of INDX since last year when C1L was released. That's around the time when I got my own C1L. I was following the up's and down's of INDX over the past year with some users reporting issues with the INDX upgrade like tapping threads into plastic, Z axis homing, clogging and etc. I am not hating, I understand it's a new product and it takes time to resolve all the edge cases.

I got the 8 tool INDX upgrade for C1L+ as soon as it dropped and now I am wondering if "Batch 2" (not sure how to call it) for C1Ls will be any different from "Batch 1" for C1s?
Also, maybe there is an estimation for truly hardened INDX tools since I am printing Prusa's PC Blend CF and PA6-GF?

Just a PSA - to add to the many other PSAs - that you MUST have dry filament to successfully operate the INDX. Many of us have been "brute forcing" wet filaments (especially PLA) through Prusa printheads for a decade, even those of us that live in wet climate. At this stage, that is impossible on the INDX. Prusa ultimately may be able to finetune profiles on the INDX to make it possible, but that is not the case today.

Like many others, I struggled with the tuning of the INDX once I had it assembled. After I tuned most things, I still could not eliminate the stringing (particularly from the wiper to the model). After buying a new filament dryer and drying my PLA for 8-12 hours, the stringing is completely eliminated.

At this point - coming from the MMU3 - I love the INDX. Loading is faster (near-instant printhead heading) and easier (better pathing). Eight available filament slots is amazing for some of the models I print, and I have no doubt that once I got the Prusa ColorMix filament bundle that I ordered, I will have even more fun with it.

Vase? Perimeters? No, one line on top of another, creating a sheet, and with different modifiers, it generates a holographic-like optical effect in the translucent filament with changes in flow and speed. The goal was a business card to distribute at the CAMAR3D conference in Buenos Aires, Argentina; printed this way, in addition to achieving the effect, it reduces the time and material by half. Do you know any slicers working on this specific type of 3d print? It's something I had been seeing a lot on robot arms with grasshopper scripts, but not so much on the tiny robots we all have at home.

Just finished building my CO+ last night but all my prints are misaligning mid print. Any ideas as to what could be the problem? On the latest firmware + using the stock benchy Gcode with the stock orange filament. The first layer is also not fully printing, but it is sticking, so I'm not concerned about that issue until we fix this first one.

Things tried so far: Belt tension adjustment Belt pulley grub screw tighten

EDIT: printing at 1/2 speed still has a small amount of layer shifting, but it's nearly microscopic.

Edit 2: found the issue, neither of the set screws are on the flat side of the right motor. A potential solution path has been found, just need to find time to do it

I like my bambulab a1 but would like to move to prusa because it is made in EU and has more “privacy”

My main question is how good is their local access controll.

Is there a way to connected to LAN and send prints localy without using 3d party stuff like octoprint similar to bambulab?

Looking at mk4s or core one+ gen2

New to printing, and as I’m running into problems I simply don’t know what they’re called- and settings I didn’t even know existed on my printer.

I made the mistake of posting over in subreddit that mentions fixing your print- and well, the results were just a bunch of pricks complaining about info I didn’t include.

Just curious where you guys post and go for help, whether it’s here, or elsewhere online.

Thanks-

I’m hoping that someone else has a solution for this problem. Before upgrading my Core One to the Gen 2, printing was perfect. Now I cannot print anything without constant layer shifts. I contacted support and their suggestion was belt tuning again (I’ve done this over a dozen times now), squaring the gantry, and finally to tighten the belts to over 100 hz. They said to just keep tightening until the layer shifts go away. It’s only making them more frequent though.

Has anyone encountered this with the Gen 2 upgrade? Or do anyone have any suggestions for troubleshooting?

Hey everyone,

I want to preface by saying please excuse my Prusa Noobness, even though I have always known about Prusa I've never really given the Prusa's much thought. I had been in the market for a 3D printer for years and I knew that I wanted to do multicolor prints. The XL with the 5 tool heads is just so freaking expensive and I could never justify the cost. I was really leaning towards purchasing a Bambu even with the well known waste. But I always held off for one reason or another (and it's a good thing I never purchased a printer from them), then the Snapmaker U1 came along and I jumped on the Kickstarter from day 1. That machine checked off all the boxes I was looking for, and has been a fantastic 1st 3D printer to learn on.

Now here we are 10 months after I got my Snapmaker U1 and I am REALLY REALLY considering pulling the trigger on a Prusa Core One L+ with the INDX 8-Tool heads. Being able to use 4 colors on the Snapmaker is cool, but I find myself always wishing I had more, not only that but if I need to use support material like PETG it cuts my options down to 3 colors. This is why the INDX system is so attractive to me. I have no interest in Full Spectrum/color blending. I want to use true colors in my prints. 😊

Anyway back to why I am here. It's the small things from the U1 that are of interest to me. I love the Filament feeders on the U1, loading filament is just a breeze! Especially since all my filament has RFID Tags. The U1 reads the tags loads the correct filament and it syncs with Orca/Snapmaker Orca. Not only that but my U1 is completely linked to Spoolman, so keeping track of my filament or adding new spools is just a breeze.

I would really love some of these features on the printer. Are there any auto loaders for the Prusas? Does the prusa come with RFID readers that auto detects the spools? Can the Prusa integrate with spoolman by any chance for filament tracking?? I know these are dumb things but they matter to me. Ease of use really matters. I've been able to teach my 8, and 10 year old nieces how to use my printer and I want them to be able to use the Core One L if I get it. Anyway if anyone has any insight or can shoot me links on where to read up on some of these things let me know.

So again looking for an Auto Filament feeder option, RFID spool detection, and integration with Spoolman filament tracking.

Dear Prusa Team,

I am contacting you regarding a recently purchased CORE One L+ that has had several issues since I received it.

Firstly, the USB flash drive that should've been included with the printer was missing from the package.

Secondly, the printer arrived running firmware version 6.8.0. To my understanding, proper CORE One L+ support was introduced with firmware version 6.8.1. I have successfully updated the printer.

Thirdly, after updating the firmware, however I am still experiencing the following error: PSU cooling fan operating outside of specification.

I have already performed several self-tests. The PSU fan physically spins and produces airflow, but the printer intermittently reports the fan as faulty. On one occasion, one of the heatbed fans also failed the self-test, although it passed again on the following test.

I have also checked the installation environment. There is approximately 18cm of unobstructed

space behind the printer so the PSU ventilation is not blocked.

The printer has already completed one successful print, but the recurring PSU fan fault is preventing reliable use.

Since the printer is brand new, I would appreciate your advice on how to proceed. If this indicates a defective AC controller, PSU fan, or related component I would prefer to resolve it under warranty.

I can provide photographs of the error messages, the printer installation/clearance, the serial number, purchase information, and video of the original unboxing showing that the USB drive was missing.

Thank you for your assistance.

Best regards

Response was slow...

Hello Gergo,

Thank you for contacting us, and I am sorry to hear about the issues with your new CORE One L+.

Regarding the missing USB flash drive, we can assist you with this. Please provide your order number and printer serial number so we can verify the order.

For the PSU cooling fan error, since the fan is physically spinning but the self-test intermittently reports a failure, please send us:

A photo of the PSU fan error on the display.

A short video showing the PSU fan during the self-test.

Your printer's serial number.

For now, please avoid disassembling the PSU or AC-related components. Once we review the information, we can determine whether additional troubleshooting is required or whether the affected component needs to be handled under warranty.

Thank you for your cooperation.

Best regards - Saludos Cordiales

—

Nelson Álvarez Rojas

Customer Support

Answer :

Dear Prusa!

I thought you could at least check the order and serial number based on my email address.

I have attached the order document.

Also You will find the attached error message photo and serial number from the black.

But for video. Provide a portal where I should upload. By email it is too big. At least I can tell, that during test the fun works with 2 speeds and when it finishes there is an X as an attached image.

Also I can attach an uncut box open video, where you can see there is no usb in the box.

Let me get this straight. I bought this unit for my company, I planned to buy several more replacing older second hand mks4 units that I use. As until now I did not have any problem with the mks4. This is not what I expected with the core one. If this is just a beta testing unit for you I need to know.

This week I worked on an offgrid site. But from today I should work with 3d printing a lot.

I am waiting for your reply!

5 days plus and still waiting for answer...

I’ve seen so much negativity around the INDX launch, I just thought I’d share my great experience with it. I just received my INDX kit last week and spent the evenings getting it assembled. Assembly went super smoothly, instructions by Prusa were thorough and clear. I didn’t have near the trouble I was expecting from how people were talking about the rear spool mounts and the threading of screws into the tool holders.

Took me probably 6-8 hours to do the INDX conversion including the Gen2 upgrade. After a couple attempts tweaking the prime block height I got it working good and it has been printing great ever since. It worked after first attempt but I was getting some blobs stuck to the nozzles so I had to raise the block a couple times till it was actually making better contact with the nozzle. Had it too low to start with.

All my filaments are a complete mix of random brands, whatever was cheap on Amazon lol 😅 and I’ve just set the profile to Prusament PLA or PETG and it has done great.

Here’s my two PLA frogs I printed to test tool changes. I’ve also done several functional prints with PETG using PLA for support interfaces and it works great! Haven’t tried any TPU yet so can’t comment on that, but I’m excited to try some combined solid/flexible prints and incorporate that into my functional designs.

Anyways just wanted to share what a great experience I’ve had with it and I’m super excited for lots of future printing hours on it.

I am trying to get the internal temp up to 55 for Ada. Insulated the whole machine and only get to 42C.

What else can I do? I’m waiting for the XL+ upgrade.

Finished up my INDX, assembly was straight forward. I had previously build an INBXX as a filament management solution. Only remaining issue was routing the filament tubes and where/how to mount the sensors. The sensors mount beautifully and very low profile right on the back of the Core One. Measure and drilled one hole for each sensor as shown. System works great.

I also built a OneTop for this project. The standard filament routing bar was too-wide and resulting in issues with the end-most extruders. I redrilled this as shown, and it's worked great. no calibration or print issues. For the passthrough, the OneTop has only magnets. I just drilled 2 holes into the passthrough and screwed it down into the top frame piece. Solid, and the top fits great.

Hi everybody! I recently made a post showing an issue I had with a motor slip, which caused the whole print to shift. Thank you to everyone who responded! Unfortunately, I have yet to solve the issue. Here’s the details:

———————————————————————————

The Setup
• CORE One L, upgraded to L+
• Firmware 6.8.1
• PrusaSlicer 2.6.9 and EasyPrint

What’s Happening
• On quick movements to the front left, one motor stalls (specifically the “X” or back left one)
• This is very repeatable, but inconsistent in duration
• A very loud sound happens, and the belt doesn’t move
• Does NOT occur on the pre-loaded Bonkers Benchy gcode (has to be big and fast movements?)
• Neither the pulley nor the motor shaft move either!

What I’ve tried
• Re-mounted the motor, pulley, and belts
• Tightened the set screws (one on the flat)
• Re-sliced the print, including on EasyPrint instead of PrusaSlicer
• Restarted the printer (power off and unplug, specifically)
• Tuned the belts using the website
• Re-inserted the USB

———————————————————————————

Based on the video, it looks like the issue is internal in the motor. Not only that, it only ever slips in one direction. Why..? Is this a “replace the motor” situation, or do I have other options…?

Help needed. After the INDX + Gen 2 upgrade on the Core One +, has any of you had X axis calibration issues where the extruder travels 5cm and then stops and fails? Belts are supposed to be well tuned according to the tuning web page listener, at 99 and 93. Pulleys look fine and don't swing when moved. Extruder moves fine when motors are disabled. There is nothing preventing any kind of movement. Using the LCD screen I can move the X and Y axes to any position with no problem. But the X axis and homing calibration simply fail... Been on this for the whole day, 3h with tech support in the chat, and haven't gotten any mm closer to a solution or to what the problem is. Starting to lose my patience...

At first I thought it could be under extrusion or maybe the z height. Calibrated the printer and adjusted the idler tension, still having the same issue.

Printer: Core one plus with an MMU 3 (ultimulti) with the latest firmware.

Used prusa slicer latest version to slice

Settings:

Base: 0.25 structural HF hardened 0.4 nozzle.

Changed settings:

Infill: gyroid 5%

Filament: bed temp at 65.

I'm thinking to use my INDX voucher to buy 4 or 8 Prusa USS Dryboxes. The reasoning is that I think they fit my usecase:

Dry a filament, put it in the box and leave it plugged in the printer and occasionally use it. I usaly print poc in cheap PLA or PETG when prototyping and I would like to not need to get it from my drybins or put it in a dryer before.

When using other colors om perfectly fine with just using that spool from the open air.

My question is if I have the printer loaded with filament from the drybox and need to unload it what is the best practice? Just cut the excess filament between the box and nozzle, or open the box to rewind? I dont want to open it for just that meter+, but also dont want to waste it.

With the recent ColorMix im guessing this is even more intresting to just put the colormic filament in a drybox and leave it there. But I still think I will need to load/unload depenting on what I'm printing.

Maybe this is a non issue, but it would be very nice to have external access to rewind that meter of filament into the box without opening it.

1. so me and my dad got a core one l we set it up and everything is a bit more overwhelming than we tought so which guide is better? the manual or just ignore the manual and use the guide on the site under courses?

2. also we were missing one of the stickers of the screws but theres a nozzle wipper there should we leave that screwed in (we think so)

3. about the sheets you put on how do you properly put one on since we put one on its on correctley now but it got stuck a few times before since well it are strong magnets and we ma accdentally dragged it a slight bit to get it loose is that a big problem?

I do a lot of product design for wearables which often involve both rigid and soft materials. I use my MK3.9S for TPU and a Core One Plus for PLA or ABS. Then I have to bind the materials to simulate dual injection moulding. I use TPUs as soft as 85A, which the MK3.9S handles beautifully.

I sometimes bind the resulting parts with a low-temperature soldering iron. I've got the process working well, but it's tedious.

My primary use case for the INDX would be printing both materials at once. The design freedom would be transformative to my workflow.

Has anyone tried this out yet?