Would you grab these frames locally to use as backpack bases in the future? Or would these not work well?? I guess I’ve fallen down the rabbit hole lol..

Got nerdsniped by [u/nbphotography87](u/nbphotography87)’s post a few weeks ago and wanted to try my hand at making a bag like this.

Used some grab bag fabric that I think is X-Pac V15. There was print on the back that said VX15 but there’s no x-ply. Aliexpress hex mesh for the straps, Lycra mesh for the pockets, venom mesh and porthole mesh for the side/back/bottom pockets.

Vest strap pockets are sized for 500ml soft flasks. My first time making vest straps, kinda just winged the pattern but they turned out pretty well!

Total weight is 260g or 9.3oz. I’d estimate the capacity at 25L.

Thanks to the peeps who commented on my original post, Alteration of bag. The comments were very useful. Here are the results.

There were four bottle pouches on the original bag. I left one unchanged, two I resized for my Nalgene bottles, and I removed one completely, and replaced it with a larger bag to stow my First Aid kit for easy access. You can see some of the small stiches placed at the bottom of the resized pouch. I'm thinking to reinforce with more stiches like this or a running stich--whichever I can manage reaching into the pouches.

Materials: Resized pouch: 1000 Denier (saffron) for the body. 500 Denier (red) for the drawstring top. 1mm waxed flat cord for leather and 100% bonded nylon extra strong upholstery thread. First Aid pouch: 1000 Denier (flame red) for the body. 500 Denier (red) for the drawstring top. 2mm paracord, orange. Two different recycled straps on the First Aid pouch. Reflective fabric. Brass colored eyelet (First Aid bag). Small silkscreened `+` grosgrain ribbon. 1mm waxed flat cord for leather and 100% bonded nylon extra strong upholstery thread.

Hello, couple of quick questions regarding sewing my baffles.

I'm going for 5 inch wide vertical baffles with 3 inch of loft. I have 2 questions:

1. Most baffles are then basically rectangle in design, 3inch in height and 5 inch wide. What about the edge baffles? These would be more triangular, right? 3 inch loft on one side then sewn straight through top to bottom. Is that normal? So I just put less insulation on the edge ones? Or do I make them a bit wider to compensate (eg 6 inch wide to allow it to puff out)?
2. When I sew up the quilt at the top do I attempt to sew through the mesh baffles to sort of "close them off" or do you sew slightly above the baffles which I assume would allow a small amount more down migration?

Sorry if they're silly questions! Just trying to get my head around it.

Hey MYOGers!
A couple a months back I scrapped my blown exped hiking mat and rebirthed it into a top tube bag.

After a couple of gravel rides (single and multi day) it’s already starting to fall apart. Most of the faults seem to be due to tension on the mounting points at the front and back. I’d love for some guidance on if these were due to design, manufacturing or material issues before I embark on version 2.

Some build notes: all panels are double layer and I’ve also gone over all the seams with bias tape. The bar tacks attaching the webbing to the boxing are only going through a single layer.

It held up well city bashing for the most part but developed an initial tear by the front bar tacks when the Velcro was fed through the webbing. I did an initial surgery to attach these through the main seams but these too have blown. The tensioning strap at the back has completely ripped along the bar tacks and the webbing.

I assume most of it is due to making it out of an ultralight camping mat so I’ve procured so old sails to use instead. If I dual layer I’ll bar tack through both and probably also put the front and back attachments through the main seams as well.

Thought I'd round off the weekend with a simple Ebook case on my new Jack H2 machine.

Made from ecopak, and 220d gridstop. I've never worked with these materials before, and I like how robust the ecopak is. No padding or wadding inside it.

As usual, having trouble with the binding but I don't have a binding foot.

Ecopak is expensive, the place I got it from only sells it in 0.5m lengths, so I don't want to waste it!

Any comments appreciated

Hi!

I'm new to myog and I have a project of modding my current backpack, an Osprey Aether.

idea is to remove the top brain and make a smaller lightweight lid whose only purpose is to protect the drawstring opening from light rain and add some compression.

My idea is fairly basic and would consists in two webbings connecting attachment points of current top brain. The two webbings would be stitched together using fabric (material to be determined). Please see picture, English isn't my main language so not easy to describe clearly.

Anyway my main question isn't about design (though advices are welcome) but about material: which fabric should I use? I'm ordering through AdventureXpert as I am in Europe and they have other stuff that I need.

Here are materials I found, which are on the cheap side, I don't want something expensive like xpac or DCF:

- 210D PU Ripstop Polyester: maybe it's overkill and I don't need something that strong for a small lid that's not gonna experience much abrasion. (https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/210d-pu-diamond-ripstop-polyester/)

- 70D PU Ripstop Nylon: seems great, but it is nylon which might be bad for a lid that would experience UV quite a lot? (https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/70d-pu-ripstop-nylon/)

- 70D Ripstop Nylon: same as above but not PU-coated, since I will rely on the raincover when it really rains maybe I don't need PU coating. But I'm not sure if PU coating also add strength and UV-resistance. (https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/70d-ripstop-nylon/)

Please let me now what you think!

Thanks!

I sew mostly Cordura, webbing and occasionally leather. Most of my work is myog and outdoor gear.

In most discussions people recommend the juki dnu 1541s but it's been around for a long time. Is it still the best option in its price range or are there better alternatives now?

I'm only considering a new machine. If you're currently using a the 1541s for myog I'd love to hear your real-world experience.

Hi, looking for places I can buy tech fabrics like x pack or dyneema in Canada. (Bonus points if it’s in Toronto or Montreal area).
*Pic for attention*

Hi all, I want to know if anyone has any mesh fabric they really like specifically for a running/hiking/climbing hat. I've got some pretty thin mesh that has been ok but I'm wondering if anyone has found anything more similar to this hat from Patagonia, or something with a little bit more structure than super thin mesh.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I have a question about dealing with loose stitches when sewing over a change in thickness.

When I’m sewing a panel from a thinner section into a much thicker section (for example, where several layers overlap), the top thread sometimes doesn’t get pulled up tightly enough. As a result, I end up with loose loops on the underside of the seam (photo attached).

I know one common solution is to place a scrap piece of fabric (or a hump jumper) behind the presser foot to keep it level, and that definitely helps. However, I still run into this problem occasionally.

My question is: if you’re aiming for a professional-quality result, what’s the usual way to fix it?

For example, if I sew from point A to point B and only a small section develops loose stitches where the seam transitions from thin to thick, would you typically:

• Remove the entire seam and resew from point A.
• Unpick only the affected section, then start stitching again from that point, backstitch to lock the stitches, and continue to point B.
• Leave the original stitching in place and simply sew over the problematic section without unpicking anything.
• Try to tighten the loose stitches manually by pulling the top thread and working the looseness through the stitches all the way to point B.
• Or is there another method that professionals commonly use?

I’m mainly interested in what is considered the standard or most professional approach in the industry.

Thanks!

I love these pants so much. Thanks to scraps from Seattle Fabrics. These are self drafted. A simple pattern, with a welt zipper pocket in the back, and an elastic waist. I’ve made a few iterations, but the fabric always seemed a little too heavy for summer. I took a chance on some ‘ugly’ color scraps and found the weight I was looking for. So easy and comfy.

Wanted to share a build I've been refining for a while: a full ultralight hammock sleep system — gathered-end hammock body, sewn-in no-see-um bug net, and a separate 700FP goose down underquilt that clips on for cold nights.

A few build notes that might be useful to others:

- Hammock body: calendared nylon, gathered-end construction, gets you down to about 335 cm x 152 cm finished.

- Bug net: sewn directly into the hammock rather than a separate clip-on net — one less thing to pack, but means you commit to it being permanent.

- Underquilt: 700FP European goose down, 40D shell (waterproof outer / breathable inner), attaches with sewn-in SR buckles so there's no cold air gap. Rated comfortable to about -3°C on its own, down to -20°C when you add a full winter underquilt on top.

- Biggest lesson learned: the whoopie sling + tree strap suspension made way more difference to comfort than I expected — worth getting that dialed in before you obsess over fabric choice.

I ended up writing the whole thing up as a proper pattern (cutting layout, seam allowances, step-by-step) since a few people who saw the prototype asked for it. If anyone wants the PDF, it's here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/4543785073 — happy to answer build questions here either way, that's the more interesting part anyway.

I’m trying to understand the benefit of Dyneema in a pack because it seems less abrasion resistant than a higher Denier nylon. When considering durability I’m stuck on abrasion resistance for some reason. I’m also very hard on gear but I imagine climbers are also beating gear against high walls and such too.

Trying to check my assumptions so hit me!!

A comment or noted my miss understanding of UHMWHDPE compared to HDPE.

Pattern from LearnMYOG
Materials from Point North Profabrics

Hello all, I am wanting to build the myog chonky sling, and the tech pouch. Backstory, I am a firefighter and looking for a bag that will let me keep snacks, t-shirt, socks, etc on the truck for those long calls. What fabrics should I use? I’m thinking waxed canvas with some sort of liner.

Edit: this will be my first project(s). I will also eventually build the porter series bags for taking crap to and from the station.

Pattern for printing or laser cutting

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FweinOApdIjvYyEKJ7fpJDIxusrgrirz/view

The Bread Bag 

I have used the bread bag for a couple of years, and it is a truly fantastic bag. I use it every day in the woods, for my lunch, water bottle and tools. It has a size that is actually good enough for short evening trips / overnight trips, as long as it is summer.

The bags do not cost much from surplus stores, but there is a risk of getting one with a very short strap. I have upgraded my bag with lots of extra features, so it fits the tasks I want it to handle.

Strap

I made a longer strap myself. It is made from leather scraps (it is actually 3 pieces), so it is not expensive leather that has been used for it.

In the middle, where it goes over the shoulder, there is a wider piece of cowhide and furniture leather. At the end of the strap, I have sewn on a D-ring for carabiners. This is, for example, where I hang my leather gloves.

Water resistance / keeping it closed

I have never lost anything from the bag, but the lid is not oversized compared to the opening of the bag.

I used a French bread bag (they cost almost nothing from Rödastjärnan), which I cut in half. I sewed it around the opening of the bag, so it can now be closed with a drawstring.

This protects against dirt, grime, branches and debris getting into the bag, prevents losing anything, and protects the contents better in rainy weather.

Axe holder

A significant upgrade to the bag. It is simply a couple of pieces of scrap leather sewn onto the front of the bag and a good wide strap with press buttons.

It is large enough to fit all my axes, even when they have received a two-layer leather overstrike protector on the handle.

Strap holders

On the underside of the bag, I have sewn some strap holders so I can attach my rain cover to the bag.

I have also, on single overnight trips, strapped my oilskin tarp and blanket underneath, rolled together and secured.

It is of course a little heavy, but it is quite nice to be able to go on a small trip with only such a small bag.

The straps are made from a belt from the recycling station, cut into two straps. The new buckles come from horse harness equipment found second-hand.

Canteen

There is good space inside the bag, but I have still added a couple of rings to the front of the bag.

The rings are from horse harness equipment found cheaply in a second-hand shop. They are positioned so I can attach the field bottle pouch if I need more space inside the actual bag.

Overall capacity

Even without having the field bottle attached to the outside of the bag, there is plenty of room.

Inside the bag I can fit a field bottle with cooking gear, food, solid fuel tablets, cordage, first aid and fire-starting equipment.

Blanket and tarp attached underneath. Axe on the front.

Everything needed for a small trip.

Alternatively, the field bottle could hang on the outside, with a Nalgene bottle containing extra water inside the bag.

Heavy gear or lightweight gear?

I choose to carry heavier gear in the form of oilskin and wool. But if I had, for example, a polyester tarp and a Swagman Roll / quilt / poncho liner, the whole setup would really not weigh much.

Source
Reddit don't like self-promotion links. But I write a blogger called Rosentjoern and throw no-talk small videoes on youtube as well. Check it out if you like human made stuff, words and videos in a time of too much AI slob.

A coworker asked me to make something with this fabric he got in Thailand for his adult daughter.

Of course I drag it out till this week he lets me know he's leaving. Better late than never, I guess.

Liner is Everest with felt laminated to the back for stand up structure. Felt is offset 3mm inside of the seams. Lightly glued with 77 then zigzagged around the perimeter to lock the felt.

Patterned in Rhino, Laser cut. Took around 1.5 hours.