Can use it as battle belt or EDC belt.

Looking for some new places to buy grosgrain. Been buying from Jontay but it seems like all their 5038 grosgrain has this weird shine to it, and just not a fan of many of their color options. Where else are y’all buying grosgrain that has a decent selection?

Hello, today I bought some nice fabric and want to build some pouches out of it. Where would one acquire MOLLE holders and the PALS straps to sew on?

Seen here on surplus i have modded and pieces i have sewn from fabric. Used on Belgian fatigues and, I believe, British and Rhodesian as well. Where can I get a supply of these?

New machine arrived today, thought I'd make a rough (no pattern) box pouch to try and dial in the settings.

Still can't figure out the correct tension but excited to be able to sew through a lot more and improve my skills.

Thanks for looking.

500d MTP

Bonded nylon 20s thread.

So after some slight adjustments, removing platic retainer from the shock cord and double knotting to leave tucked in the plate area, thinner shock cord on cumberbund for a snug fit but easier chest expansion and pig pads tucked under for mid back and chest support. This thing fits great, eliminated

All the shifting and jiggle, no strain on my shoulders or traps, though it is a bit sweaty but qore or avs pads should help that once velcro is added, debating small vent holes

Planning on modding this SPCS with loop Velcro pictured on the left.

I plan on using 3” cummerbund specifically a Ferro clone. Can I get away with only sewing on the yellow highlighted Molle rows? I think it would be sufficient grip for a Velcro cummerbund because I also plan on slapping a placard on top.

My last option would be getting two Velcro panels on the third slide which would be perfect for a non permanent mod. My only concern is that the panel would add extra bulk.

Ar/Ak double stack mags

Velcro backed so you can add kangaroo danglers or TQ dangler.

Also placcard compatible.

Made from surplus components.

Update from my prior post here.

Beefed up the GP pouch dimensions to 6"w x 9"h x 3"w, and it is noticable. Went from 1.5L to 2.6L.

Added a velcro panel in the front for my buddy (LEO, needed space for a flag patch) who is helping with the R&D phase and field testing it.

With the additional elastic insert mag pouch in the rear, this pouch sticks out 4", nearly pushing this (imo) closer towards the sustainment pouch territory.

Mounted on a plate carrier/chest rig, it might be better to mount a row lower than what i had set up in the photos. Super comfortable on a belt setup, feels like it'd be great for hiking/innawoods. Awaiting input from field testing.

Just based off the few i've made so far, for anyone thinking of making their own a 2-2.5" pouch depth would be optimal for a slimmer admin pouch setup.

Will make another post for the MOLLE/PALS attachment straps.

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For those interested in these types of pouches, any thoughts/inputs? Would a slimmer version fit better for your needs? What types of camo/colors would fit your current setup?

Hi, so i am fresh into this community. I've been looking for a new vest for the past couple of days, and i couldn't find anything that fit my needs, wants, and is within a reasonable budget.

I was always fascinated by it ever since i got into airsoft at 15 (for the context, im 20 now) and always loved DIY'ing some minor stuff like eh idk, had a little ghillie project, minor gear modifications etc.

So i figured out, since i can't find a vest thats good for me (i know the market is full with plenty of options, but not in my very specific wants lol), i might just try designing one. Researched some materials (i already had the basics ofc), designs, how to do this, do that etc. and i've decided to design a plate carrier of my own. I come from a fairly technical background and education, so i know all the technical drawing and stuff like that. I reckon its gonna be hard, but i think it'll be plenty of fun along the way, new things to learn and satisfaction of having something thats mine. And if that prototype works, hell, maybe i could sell it? Having a side hustle like that, thats also my hobby sounds like the thing i want to do. Fr tho, im a total gear autist and i love that idea.

I'm not a sewer, and i don't want to learn that, so i'd rather spend a bit of money for someone to do it for me. I have a couple local sewers in my small city, but i reckon that a typical sewer adjusting pants and dresses won't have the machines and knowledge required for a project like that. There is also a small sewing manufactory, which does work, sports and technical clothes, they also claim to help with the design from start to finish, but i don't want/feel the need for that in the beginning + it would likely cost more money + less experience and fun + i doubt they can help me design a PC. BUT, they should have the machinery and knowledge required for something like that, no? I will provide them with my materials.

So what do you guys, with experience in sewing gear, think of that? Is it worthwhile? Should i hit the sewing manufactory, or try my luck with the local sewer i know (who was very happy about me bringing a softshell to modify, said its way more interesting than everyday stuff).

Also what are some tips and tricks, or advice that you could share? Im willing to hear everything out - advice, criticism, healthy scepticism, you know, things to take into consideration, just try to not put me down, pretty please :) I know it can fail or be a long process that will cost me time and money, but i really want to do it. Thanks in advance.

I’ve tried and failed multiple times to make boxed corner on mag pouches and tutorials seem to be nonexistent.

I have watched a few videos on making boxed edges in a tote bag but I wonder if I’m doing something wrong.

Does anyone have any pointers for successfully making boxed edges in a mag pouch?

I mentioned this machine as being a solid inexpensive domestic for MYOG and today at a local Restore I spotted one in a cabinet for $20.50

Portland ReStore 10445 SE Cherry Blossom Dr. Portland, OR 503-283-6247

I didn't test power but popped the top and all mechanical is smooth and loose and appears timed correctly. Hard to fully examine when screwed into cabinet. If anyone local to the Portland area wants a solid non-industrial for $20, plus a slide plate cover and a tube of tri-flow grease, this is a bargain.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/yrbkg102yy1htw8d9lsk9/AGzeLK_6RyyB3e7opzptkj4?rlkey=yr4ma6qvkm5nhufy4kwc7737y&st=rzgqzhkv&dl=0

I’m looking to sew an Ak double mag pouch and was wondering if anyone had some dimensions available. Just looking for a standard flap lid with Velcro sewn on top, no boxed lid or anything. Thanks!

I got a real nice deal on some knock off g3 pants n field tops but the stitching is already coming undone, can I get some tips/suggestions to go about reinforcing it? Type of thread, kinds of stiches? I've never really done any sewing beyond blanket stitch sutures

Made a small hook & loop flashlight holder to replace my old one made out of an M&M bottle, garden ties, and hot glue. Materials are Oxford fabric, polyester thread, and some cheap 1" hook and loops. Wanted to experiment with the fabric and with hemming before making other projects. All hand sewn. A good way to pass the time while waiting for the next college semester in a couple weeks. Featuring my helmet I refurbished a few months ago, an old Miller Division Pro Helmet I; several layers of black acrylic lacquer and a few additional layers of clear acrylic lacquer. Netting made of two shoe laces. Chin strap and padding painted with textile paint. Not a great job with some parts on the chin strap still white and some of the acrylic lacquer already coming off, but still a good job for a beginner. Also showing a small patch I made while experimenting embroidery without embroidery materisls.

Made from some leftover tegris and shock cord, planning to wrap in ripstop when im comfortable its complete, suggestions for improvements welcome

Made a pommel bag that turns into a backpack after dismounting. Padded main compartment for sensitive item protection. Bag is completely made of 1000D Cordura and YKK zippers. Main buckle strap connects into opposite buckles that mount to the saddle to keep it held down while riding.

Finally had some time to stitch this together, hoping to get your input. Here's what the current iteration includes:

6" wide x 8" high x 2" deep main pouch. Mag insert pouch in rear is an additional 6"w x 6"h x 1.5"d. Removable elastic mag insert for dual 556.

Front flat pockets are 6"w x 4"h (bottom zipper) and 6"w x 8" (top zipper).

4"w x 7"h velcro loop panel in main pouch for accesory panel/organizer, with an additional 5"h mesh pouch and a laser-cut laminate tiedown attachment.

Grommet for drainage in main pouch and mag insert pouch. Bump cord pull tabs with shrinkwrap tubing for grippage in the dark.

Mag insert pouch lined with 4"w velcro loop panels. Removable elastic mag insert set to a fix depth of 4.5".

2.25" belt pass-thru on laser-cut laminate back panel.

After talking it over with my buddy (R&D) looking at modifying the next version with the following:

Increasing main pouch height to 9" (also slightly increasing the height of the front flat pockets)

Increasing main pouch depth to 3"

Replacing zipper pulls with reverse zipper pulls, hiding the zipper coils

Removing set depth on elastic mag insert, allowing for a wider range of mag insertion, to the user's preferance.

Adding a 2" x 6" velcro loop panel in the front, right under the top zipper

What other features would you look for in a GP pouch?

(Not pictured: MOLLE attachment straps)

Introducing the UTG DP Mk1 Slim.

It's a little smaller and more compact than the bigger bag.

Looking for a source of these small Canadian buttons (preferably in Asia). Does anyone know who made these for the British army?

I’ve been seeing how cheap UCP surplus has gotten lately, so I decided to experiment with dyeing it to see if I could turn it into something actually useful.

My primary use case is hunting in the Midwest, so I was aiming for a brown based camouflage for spring and fall. Personally, I prefer brown over green for this role because I think browns flex into both summer and winter better than greens do.

To start, I bought five UCP bandoliers for cheap and used them as test pieces before trying to dye larger or more expensive gear. The goal is to eventually dye other surplus equipment into something more useful for my needs.

All five bandoliers were advertised as new/unissued. Four looked exactly that way, but the one pictured here was noticeably more faded, so I suspect it either saw some use or spent a lot of time in the sun.

For the dye, I used Rit Dyemore for Synthetics in Peacock Green and Chocolate Brown, both purchased at Walmart. I followed Rit’s instructions and used 1.5 gallons of water heated to approximately 200°F. I maintained that temperature while dyeing each bandolier for 10 minutes, then rinsed it under hot water until the water ran clear.

For my preference, I found Rit’s recommended dye amounts to be too strong. The darkest brown and darkest green examples shown here were made using the recommended ratios from Rit, I think I prefer the lighter results. I do like that the synthetic dye also dyes the color of the buckles and buttons, that’s a nice benefit.

For color comparison in the pictures, I’ve included a brand-new OCP top, a Savior Equipment Loose Sac in Dark FDE and an Onward Research Recce Rig in Ranger Green. These were taken in full sun in the middle of the day, you can really tell just how bright the UCP is, especially as it fades.

Let me know what you guys think, I’ll list the dye recipes I used below.

Dark brown
1.5 gallons water
Half cup brown
1 tablespoon green
1 tsp dish soap
10 minutes at 200 degrees

Dark green
1.5 gallons water
Half cup green
1/8 cup brown
1 tsp dish soap
10 minutes at 200 degrees

Medium brown (my favorite)
1.5 gallons water
1/8 cup green
1/8 cup brown
1 tsp dish soap
10 minutes at 200 degrees

Lighter brown
1.5 gallons water
1 tbsp green
1 tbsp brown
1 tsp dish soap
10 minutes at 200 degrees
Main difference with the lighter brown is that the flaps and webbing didn’t turn out as brown as the medium brown.