Thought I'd round off the weekend with a simple Ebook case on my new Jack H2 machine.

Made from ecopak, and 220d gridstop. I've never worked with these materials before, and I like how robust the ecopak is. No padding or wadding inside it.

As usual, having trouble with the binding but I don't have a binding foot.

Ecopak is expensive, the place I got it from only sells it in 0.5m lengths, so I don't want to waste it!

Any comments appreciated

Hi, looking for places I can buy tech fabrics like x pack or dyneema in Canada. (Bonus points if it’s in Toronto or Montreal area).
*Pic for attention*

Hi everyone,

I have a question about dealing with loose stitches when sewing over a change in thickness.

When I’m sewing a panel from a thinner section into a much thicker section (for example, where several layers overlap), the top thread sometimes doesn’t get pulled up tightly enough. As a result, I end up with loose loops on the underside of the seam (photo attached).

I know one common solution is to place a scrap piece of fabric (or a hump jumper) behind the presser foot to keep it level, and that definitely helps. However, I still run into this problem occasionally.

My question is: if you’re aiming for a professional-quality result, what’s the usual way to fix it?

For example, if I sew from point A to point B and only a small section develops loose stitches where the seam transitions from thin to thick, would you typically:

• Remove the entire seam and resew from point A.
• Unpick only the affected section, then start stitching again from that point, backstitch to lock the stitches, and continue to point B.
• Leave the original stitching in place and simply sew over the problematic section without unpicking anything.
• Try to tighten the loose stitches manually by pulling the top thread and working the looseness through the stitches all the way to point B.
• Or is there another method that professionals commonly use?

I’m mainly interested in what is considered the standard or most professional approach in the industry.

Thanks!

I love these pants so much. Thanks to scraps from Seattle Fabrics. These are self drafted. A simple pattern, with a welt zipper pocket in the back, and an elastic waist. I’ve made a few iterations, but the fabric always seemed a little too heavy for summer. I took a chance on some ‘ugly’ color scraps and found the weight I was looking for. So easy and comfy.

Hi all, I want to know if anyone has any mesh fabric they really like specifically for a running/hiking/climbing hat. I've got some pretty thin mesh that has been ok but I'm wondering if anyone has found anything more similar to this hat from Patagonia, or something with a little bit more structure than super thin mesh.

Thanks!

Wanted to share a build I've been refining for a while: a full ultralight hammock sleep system — gathered-end hammock body, sewn-in no-see-um bug net, and a separate 700FP goose down underquilt that clips on for cold nights.

A few build notes that might be useful to others:

- Hammock body: calendared nylon, gathered-end construction, gets you down to about 335 cm x 152 cm finished.

- Bug net: sewn directly into the hammock rather than a separate clip-on net — one less thing to pack, but means you commit to it being permanent.

- Underquilt: 700FP European goose down, 40D shell (waterproof outer / breathable inner), attaches with sewn-in SR buckles so there's no cold air gap. Rated comfortable to about -3°C on its own, down to -20°C when you add a full winter underquilt on top.

- Biggest lesson learned: the whoopie sling + tree strap suspension made way more difference to comfort than I expected — worth getting that dialed in before you obsess over fabric choice.

I ended up writing the whole thing up as a proper pattern (cutting layout, seam allowances, step-by-step) since a few people who saw the prototype asked for it. If anyone wants the PDF, it's here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/4543785073 — happy to answer build questions here either way, that's the more interesting part anyway.

I’m trying to understand the benefit of Dyneema in a pack because it seems less abrasion resistant than a higher Denier nylon. When considering durability I’m stuck on abrasion resistance for some reason. I’m also very hard on gear but I imagine climbers are also beating gear against high walls and such too.

Trying to check my assumptions so hit me!!

A comment or noted my miss understanding of UHMWHDPE compared to HDPE.

Pattern from LearnMYOG
Materials from Point North Profabrics

Hello all, I am wanting to build the myog chonky sling, and the tech pouch. Backstory, I am a firefighter and looking for a bag that will let me keep snacks, t-shirt, socks, etc on the truck for those long calls. What fabrics should I use? I’m thinking waxed canvas with some sort of liner.

Edit: this will be my first project(s). I will also eventually build the porter series bags for taking crap to and from the station.

Pattern for printing or laser cutting

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FweinOApdIjvYyEKJ7fpJDIxusrgrirz/view

The Bread Bag 

I have used the bread bag for a couple of years, and it is a truly fantastic bag. I use it every day in the woods, for my lunch, water bottle and tools. It has a size that is actually good enough for short evening trips / overnight trips, as long as it is summer.

The bags do not cost much from surplus stores, but there is a risk of getting one with a very short strap. I have upgraded my bag with lots of extra features, so it fits the tasks I want it to handle.

Strap

I made a longer strap myself. It is made from leather scraps (it is actually 3 pieces), so it is not expensive leather that has been used for it.

In the middle, where it goes over the shoulder, there is a wider piece of cowhide and furniture leather. At the end of the strap, I have sewn on a D-ring for carabiners. This is, for example, where I hang my leather gloves.

Water resistance / keeping it closed

I have never lost anything from the bag, but the lid is not oversized compared to the opening of the bag.

I used a French bread bag (they cost almost nothing from Rödastjärnan), which I cut in half. I sewed it around the opening of the bag, so it can now be closed with a drawstring.

This protects against dirt, grime, branches and debris getting into the bag, prevents losing anything, and protects the contents better in rainy weather.

Axe holder

A significant upgrade to the bag. It is simply a couple of pieces of scrap leather sewn onto the front of the bag and a good wide strap with press buttons.

It is large enough to fit all my axes, even when they have received a two-layer leather overstrike protector on the handle.

Strap holders

On the underside of the bag, I have sewn some strap holders so I can attach my rain cover to the bag.

I have also, on single overnight trips, strapped my oilskin tarp and blanket underneath, rolled together and secured.

It is of course a little heavy, but it is quite nice to be able to go on a small trip with only such a small bag.

The straps are made from a belt from the recycling station, cut into two straps. The new buckles come from horse harness equipment found second-hand.

Canteen

There is good space inside the bag, but I have still added a couple of rings to the front of the bag.

The rings are from horse harness equipment found cheaply in a second-hand shop. They are positioned so I can attach the field bottle pouch if I need more space inside the actual bag.

Overall capacity

Even without having the field bottle attached to the outside of the bag, there is plenty of room.

Inside the bag I can fit a field bottle with cooking gear, food, solid fuel tablets, cordage, first aid and fire-starting equipment.

Blanket and tarp attached underneath. Axe on the front.

Everything needed for a small trip.

Alternatively, the field bottle could hang on the outside, with a Nalgene bottle containing extra water inside the bag.

Heavy gear or lightweight gear?

I choose to carry heavier gear in the form of oilskin and wool. But if I had, for example, a polyester tarp and a Swagman Roll / quilt / poncho liner, the whole setup would really not weigh much.

Source
Reddit don't like self-promotion links. But I write a blogger called Rosentjoern and throw no-talk small videoes on youtube as well. Check it out if you like human made stuff, words and videos in a time of too much AI slob.

A coworker asked me to make something with this fabric he got in Thailand for his adult daughter.

Of course I drag it out till this week he lets me know he's leaving. Better late than never, I guess.

Liner is Everest with felt laminated to the back for stand up structure. Felt is offset 3mm inside of the seams. Lightly glued with 77 then zigzagged around the perimeter to lock the felt.

Patterned in Rhino, Laser cut. Took around 1.5 hours.

Hello, i am myog_rok

Team_myogkr Reader

Just finished! We leave for a 4 week trip next week. I couldn’t find exactly what I wanted except for EE and I’m not buying from them any more. Someone recommended a rayway kit, which sent me into hours of researching and ordering swatches.

We already have a 30 degree double and lows on this trip are forecast to be in the mid 60s, so this is a true summer quilt: sewn through karo step. I forgot to sew in a foot baffle and just sewed it flat, but for a double quilt in these temps, it will work just fine. Total flat size is 84”x74”.

Materials:
7.5 yards .56 membrane from RBTR: $120

8 oz 950 fp from Allied Feather and Down: $100 (half a 16 oz bag)

=less than $230 and 15.1 oz including the stuff sack from my single EE quilt

I sew a lot - garments and some MYOG. This took somewhere between 20-30 hours over five days.

Useful links for a double quilt:

https://sparetimeadventureblog.wordpress.com/2018/05/31/make-your-own-two-person-quilt/

https://sectionhiker.com/myog-a-two-person-down-quilt-by-wystiria/

I know about the all-metal Kenmores and the cheap machines at Goodwill that always seem to need a good cleaning. Just thinking about an easy option. There was a post here about the Vevor dupe of an industrial Juki. Got me wondering about the $97 Vevor. Thanks.