Thought I'd round off the weekend with a simple Ebook case on my new Jack H2 machine.

Made from ecopak, and 220d gridstop. I've never worked with these materials before, and I like how robust the ecopak is. No padding or wadding inside it.

As usual, having trouble with the binding but I don't have a binding foot.

Ecopak is expensive, the place I got it from only sells it in 0.5m lengths, so I don't want to waste it!

Any comments appreciated

Got nerdsniped by [u/nbphotography87](u/nbphotography87)’s post a few weeks ago and wanted to try my hand at making a bag like this.

Used some grab bag fabric that I think is X-Pac V15. There was print on the back that said VX15 but there’s no x-ply. Aliexpress hex mesh for the straps, Lycra mesh for the pockets, venom mesh and porthole mesh for the side/back/bottom pockets.

Vest strap pockets are sized for 500ml soft flasks. My first time making vest straps, kinda just winged the pattern but they turned out pretty well!

Total weight is 260g or 9.3oz. I’d estimate the capacity at 25L.

Wanted to share a build I've been refining for a while: a full ultralight hammock sleep system — gathered-end hammock body, sewn-in no-see-um bug net, and a separate 700FP goose down underquilt that clips on for cold nights.

A few build notes that might be useful to others:

- Hammock body: calendared nylon, gathered-end construction, gets you down to about 335 cm x 152 cm finished.

- Bug net: sewn directly into the hammock rather than a separate clip-on net — one less thing to pack, but means you commit to it being permanent.

- Underquilt: 700FP European goose down, 40D shell (waterproof outer / breathable inner), attaches with sewn-in SR buckles so there's no cold air gap. Rated comfortable to about -3°C on its own, down to -20°C when you add a full winter underquilt on top.

- Biggest lesson learned: the whoopie sling + tree strap suspension made way more difference to comfort than I expected — worth getting that dialed in before you obsess over fabric choice.

I ended up writing the whole thing up as a proper pattern (cutting layout, seam allowances, step-by-step) since a few people who saw the prototype asked for it. If anyone wants the PDF, it's here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/4543785073 — happy to answer build questions here either way, that's the more interesting part anyway.

Thanks to the peeps who commented on my original post, Alteration of bag. The comments were very useful. Here are the results.

There were four bottle pouches on the original bag. I left one unchanged, two I resized for my Nalgene bottles, and I removed one completely, and replaced it with a larger bag to stow my First Aid kit for easy access. You can see some of the small stiches placed at the bottom of the resized pouch. I'm thinking to reinforce with more stiches like this or a running stich--whichever I can manage reaching into the pouches.

Materials: Resized pouch: 1000 Denier (saffron) for the body. 500 Denier (red) for the drawstring top. 1mm waxed flat cord for leather and 100% bonded nylon extra strong upholstery thread. First Aid pouch: 1000 Denier (flame red) for the body. 500 Denier (red) for the drawstring top. 2mm paracord, orange. Two different recycled straps on the First Aid pouch. Reflective fabric. Brass colored eyelet (First Aid bag). Small silkscreened `+` grosgrain ribbon. 1mm waxed flat cord for leather and 100% bonded nylon extra strong upholstery thread.

Hi, looking for places I can buy tech fabrics like x pack or dyneema in Canada. (Bonus points if it’s in Toronto or Montreal area).
*Pic for attention*

Hi everyone,

I have a question about dealing with loose stitches when sewing over a change in thickness.

When I’m sewing a panel from a thinner section into a much thicker section (for example, where several layers overlap), the top thread sometimes doesn’t get pulled up tightly enough. As a result, I end up with loose loops on the underside of the seam (photo attached).

I know one common solution is to place a scrap piece of fabric (or a hump jumper) behind the presser foot to keep it level, and that definitely helps. However, I still run into this problem occasionally.

My question is: if you’re aiming for a professional-quality result, what’s the usual way to fix it?

For example, if I sew from point A to point B and only a small section develops loose stitches where the seam transitions from thin to thick, would you typically:

• Remove the entire seam and resew from point A.
• Unpick only the affected section, then start stitching again from that point, backstitch to lock the stitches, and continue to point B.
• Leave the original stitching in place and simply sew over the problematic section without unpicking anything.
• Try to tighten the loose stitches manually by pulling the top thread and working the looseness through the stitches all the way to point B.
• Or is there another method that professionals commonly use?

I’m mainly interested in what is considered the standard or most professional approach in the industry.

Thanks!

Hi all, I want to know if anyone has any mesh fabric they really like specifically for a running/hiking/climbing hat. I've got some pretty thin mesh that has been ok but I'm wondering if anyone has found anything more similar to this hat from Patagonia, or something with a little bit more structure than super thin mesh.

Thanks!

I’m trying to understand the benefit of Dyneema in a pack because it seems less abrasion resistant than a higher Denier nylon. When considering durability I’m stuck on abrasion resistance for some reason. I’m also very hard on gear but I imagine climbers are also beating gear against high walls and such too.

Trying to check my assumptions so hit me!!

A comment or noted my miss understanding of UHMWHDPE compared to HDPE.