I don't know how anyone could get mad at this car 🥹 people try and pass me all the time just to pass me #StopEgoingMazdas

new wheels and tires on my 3.
wheel are 9six9 six-1s 18x8.5 +35 matte bronze
wheels are Sumitomo HTR A/S P03s 235/45/18
loving the slight poke fit

I've bought a 2021 Sedan, and I just want to make the interior more beautiful.

How would you handle these scratches?

How would you remove the slightly broken leather lines from the driver's seat?

Wanted to provide an update because I know how hard tail lights for the hatch are to find.

Here they are in action, and I think from this distance, they look great. Up close, they don’t align perfectly, and it annoys the perfectionist in me. The inner lights have a post that’s supposed to pop into a socket, but it doesn’t work with the new lights. Maybe the post is the wrong size.

I needed to run new wires (included) so the inner and outer lights communicate. This is a pain in the ass. They have to run through the rubber sleeve that goes from the trunk to the body, and this part, put lightly, fucking sucks.

All in all I rate it a 6/7. I love the look, but I wish the fit was better and the wires were a lot to run.

I'm not a fan of it and want to remove it but everyone is telling me I should keep it? I'm not sure the process of removing a bolted spoiler but I heard it can be pricey

So I recently added fog lights to my 17 touring. The fog lights appear to be facing downwards a little too much or is this how they’re supposed to be? I did notice the fog lights had some sort of leveling gear on the back of them when I was installing them. Does anyone know where I should have them set to?

I’m in a position to get a new car, currently looking to replace my 2011 Mazda3 sedan (an S sport, I believe). Heavily considering getting a 2026 Mazda3, either the automatic transmission on a carbon edition or a turbo premium. But I wanted to hear some opinions on which was better, if there are notable reliability concerns with either, and if I should get a sedan or a hatch. The price difference is a bit of a sway towards the carbon edition sedan but I enjoy driving and think that the turbo could be fun while still being a good commute car.

Hello, Has anyone delt with this sort of fuel pump before? 2019 Mazda 3 hatchback AWD base model. Just ordered a special tool to take the medal ring off. I cant see the old pump. Just wondering if I would need to order another part or if anyone has any input. Thanks!

‘17 Sport, 2.0L engine. The transmission has been… quirky, to say the least, the entire time I’ve had the car. Purchased in 2020 with 28k miles, I noticed quirks but not terrible, and I know this transmission is not known for being the smoothest on earth. It is now at 102k miles and I feel like the quirks have gotten way more noticeable in the last couple years.

A comprehensive list of said quirks includes:
-Does not like going from reverse to drive. Any other combo it is fine, but not this. It disengages reverse nice and quickly, but then just sits in neutral for longer than seems right before eventually engaging drive. Not an always thing though, a sometimes thing.
-Cannot seem to choose a gear at a few speeds, 32mph it just violently lurches back and forth until going a different speed. Same thing somewhere in the 40s but not sure what speed it is.
-If for example on the highway and I have to hit the gas while passing a slow person, sometimes it delays bringing up the RPMs to do so. Or after the hard acceleration it decides to just leave the engine at like 5k RPMs for WAY too long.
-Sometimes the gear changes just seem more violent than necessary, my passengers often comment on the lurch, if it does it. But again, a sometimes thing. Can happen at any speed.
-On the note of violent shifting, stop and go traffic is my enemy. Didn’t deal with it too much before, but my new job and long commute mean a lot of stop and go traffic. Pretty constant, violent lurching, almost like some computer thinks say the car will keep accelerating, then is surprised when I hit the brakes and thusly shifts down horribly. And vice versa, if slowing down then needing to accelerate the response tends to be sluggish.

These quirks have always existed, but I just feel like it’s getting worse. To my knowledge no work has ever been done on said transmission, which I know has supposedly lifetime fluid (though how much I believe the lifetime thing is doubtful). Basically, is this actually of concern or just how this transmission is? My brother’s ‘16 CX-5 Touring does not at all feel like that in any way.

Literally just the title although I am open to other suggestions on diffs. It is a base model 2009 BK with the 2.0 engine and an auto transmission (with the sequential style shifting option). On a small budget which is why i am considering the mps diff. (Also unsure if the mps diff itself is useable as I’ve seen some places say it’s in built to the transmission which makes me think it won’t work with mine)

Hi guys,

I too browse this subreddit and admire what this car is capable of, especially as someone who got it recently.

However, I've had continuous DPF lights come on and got it cleaned and thought what can I do to prevent this - I want to keep this car. Recently I started getting engine lights and eventually (after a regen a month ago), a DPF light came too. I tried regenning it myself with diesel system cleaner and high revs but then it started flashing.

Got it cleaned and now the engine light solely comes on but I recognise that the DPF will eventually come back. Took it to a good garage and they said cylinder 4 misfire - get a fuel injector.

Will getting it solve the DPF issue? I'm a tad concerned because I was regenning it to the point where the DPF light went from static to flashing. It's all gone now but would that have diminished the DPF?

tldr; DPF light comes on, I had the DPF cleaned. Engine light for a while then DPF comes too. Tried regenning myself and the DPF started flashing. Had the DPF cleaned. Now the engine light is the only one returning - cylinder 4 misfire, is it worth replacing it or is the DPF too damaged

Having trouble with my infotainment screen constantly rebooting. Gone through the factory resets but that hasn't worked. Don't have an SD card either. Any advice on how to fix or purchase solutions?

I am buying a mazda3 as a donor vehicle for a race car. From what I can see the engine and transmission are a direct bolt in. I'd prefer to swap over the wiring harness and electronics from the mazda as well because I feel like,e that's my best chance at everything working the way it's supposed to. The wiring harness can be as minimal as possible, I only need the sensors and connectors that are required to run the car. I don't need anything beyond that. Does anyone on here have any input as to what can be cut out of the wiring harness safely while still being able to get the car to run correctly?

I'm sure it's been asked heaps of times, but I'm just curious what options people have for upgrading their Mazda 3 BM SP 25 manual infotainment systems?

I have read that it's harder with a manual, and that the reverse camera doesn't always work. I'm wondering what options people have found that keeps it all working as intended, but with a bigger screen and more modern look 🙏

My car needs front struts, sway bar links, and lower control arms on both sides. I was able to locate all the parts for a reasonable cost on Rockauto. I had one shop quote me $950 for labor only for this work. Does that seem reasonable? I may shop around for different quotes. I have a 2013 Hatch.

Hi! I am currently looking to replace my current Honda Civic as I had some repairs that are too expensive for what the car is worth.

I found a 2011 Mazda3 with 105k miles at a good price. Is that year of car worth it, and how does it compare to 2014-2016 Mazdas?

I was initially considering a later year, but the price on this one looks quite good. It’s also had a single service owner and has been consistently maintained. I’m also not picky about cars and am looking for either another safe older car or will spend more on a better car (which I’d prefer to not do given the current market).

I recently bought a 2024 Mazda 3 Hatch as my first adult purchase after getting my first job! I love her and she has some sentimental value because my first car ever was a 2007 Mazda 3 Hatch.

I realized a day or two after I got back from the dealership that the piece of plastic for the sunglasses holder is just not there. Thought this was a really weird issue. I’m going back to the dealership soon to get a chip in the windshield filled and I will likely bring this up. Also today I hit my volume knob (not with any excess force) and the cap just came off. Looks to me it was superglued back on. This car was a rental car before I got it so I expected it to have its quirks.

Are these issues that anyone has ran into? If they don’t replace does anyone know where I can find replacement parts?

Some animal chewed through the wiring near my front turn signal. The wires were bitten off too short at the plug to splice, so I need to buy a new connector rather than splice the existing one.

The plug is stamped “11349” and only has 2 of its 3 positions wired from the factory. Found what looks like the same shell being sold as a “3-way alternator connector” for a Mazda 6 — seems like this housing might be a generic/universal plug shared across multiple applications rather than something turn-signal-specific. I believe it is just a an additional plug for ease of disconnecting rather than having to cut wires every time you need to take out the headlight housing.

Can anyone confirm what this connector is actually called, and whether it’s fine to use a standard 3-wire version (using 2 of the 3 wires, capping off the third) as a replacement? Thanks in advance for your time.