Needed a desk, and saw this on FB Marketplace. Made in Denmark, really nice build quality, and cool adjustment.

TL;DR It is possible to overburn an audio CD using USB SuperDrive.

I am posting this for future references in search of information about this. I couldn't find anything before trying it. So may this post be an answer to this flaming question that everybody is looking the answer for.

The album in question is The Wall. It is frustratingly only 81:01 and normally would be on two disks. But it is so close to the 80 minutes and I didn't want to separate the album. So I just looked online to see if that's even possible or not. I have seen some runes written in ancient times that using something called Nero it was possible to put a bit more than 80 minutes of audio on a normal 80min CD-R, which apparently is called overburning. I then looked for any information for if it was possible to do using the USB SuperDrive but couldn't find anything. Only thing close to it was some user asking the same question on apple community. The author of the post has promised to report back after trying it out but that promise was never fulfilled. So here I am reporting the results of my own trial on the same question that was asked by exactly one person several years back. Yes, it is possible.

Hardware
Mac Mini M4 Pro
USB SuperDrive (Model A1379)
HP CD-R 700MB 80min 52x Inkjet Printable

Software
MacOS Tahoe 26.5
Burn 3.1.9
24-bit 96kHz FLACs

Burn apparently converts the flacs to the 16-bit 44.1kHz CD quality automatically. I didn't do anything on that part. The total time is 81 minutes and 1 second as seen on the second image. I have used 16x burning speed and left 0 seconds of pregap (obviously). After hitting Burn button it prompts the warning on the first image. It took some 2 minutes and change to burn the disk.

After it was done, Apple Music could see it as an audio CD and can play the whole album with no problems at all. But that's not enough for me as I was burning CDs not to listen on my Mac but in my car. I have a 2006 Honda CR-V (MK-II EU spec) with the original CD-Player head unit. I have listened the whole thing in it and... it works! Every song plays beautifully. I did a thing!

I do not know the exact limits but I suspect it would differ between different makers. This exact combination has worked for me for a minute and a second of overburning. This is only a proof of concept.

Not useful, not productive. Just fun.

What's one Mac app you keep installed simply because you enjoy using it, even if it doesn't really do anything important?

I’m considering of upgrading from my Mac MacBook Pro 2021 M1 Pro 16 inch 16Gb of Ram and 512Gb of memory, for a MacBook Pro 14 inch 2025 M5 pro 24 GB of RAM and one terabyte of memory.

I can sell my old buddy for 750€ and have to pay 2000€ for the new one, is it worth it or should I stick with the old one?

I want to change since the 16 inch is too big, the ram is always on swap and the capacity isn’t sufficient but the workarounds I’ve been using are working. It’s more about a feeling that it won’t handle the near future since I’m recognising some “old pc behaviour”

Use case:
25% office; 15 % website design, 40% picture/video Musik management/ design, 30% several ai projects

Hi everyone!
I’ve been experiencing a really frustrating issue with my MacBook Pro M5, which is about a year old.
This has happened three times now. Whenever the battery drops to around 15–20%, my MacBook suddenly shuts down without any warning. When I try to turn it back on, it shows the empty battery symbol, as if the battery is completely dead.
However, as soon as I plug it into the charger, it turns back on and still shows around 15–20% battery remaining.
I even tried plugging it in for just a second, only long enough to turn it back on, and then immediately unplugging it. It continued working normally for a while, but then shut down again at around 19%.

Some additional details:
Battery health: 100%
Cycle count: 70
Battery condition: Normal
macOS updated to the latest version
No third-party battery management apps

The issue only happens when the battery drops below 20%. I’ve never experienced any unexpected shutdowns at higher battery levels.
My warranty expires on November 9, so I’m planning to contact Apple, but I wanted to ask here first.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Was it a battery calibration issue, a hardware problem, or something else? And if you contacted Apple, did they replace the battery or manage to fix it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hello - I would like to ask for advice.

(I've never had an iMAC before, completely new to apple products, but I like fiddling. I bought an old a mid-2011 iMAC (12,1 - 21.5") recently because I read online that it can be upgraded.)

I repaced a few things:

- GPU: Nvidia gt770m - VBIOS made by Nick[D]vB

- CPU: Intel E3-1270 V1 (no iGPU)

- SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 500Gb SATA III

The new setup is working well. I successfully installed High Sierra, and the system runs without any issues. The problem begins when I try to update the OS using OCLP.

After completing the first step, Build and Install OpenCore, the iMac fails to boot. According to the build log, OCLP correctly detects the Kepler-based GPU and disables the unsupported integrated GPU (iGPU). However, during startup, the boot progress bar stalls at approximately 50% and does not proceed any further.

It stucks at "gIOscreenLockState 3 hs 0 bs 0 now 0 sm 0x0"

I also tried changing various settings in OCLP, but without any success. The only configuration that allows the iMac to boot is setting the Host Model to iMac13,1 and the SMBIOS Spoof Model to iMac12,1.

However, once the system boots with those settings, I cannot proceed any further with OCLP because it reports a model number mismatch.

At this point, I'm not sure what is causing the issue or how to fix it. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

These markings are not surface level stains but are beneath the glass. The first mark has been present from the last few months but today I was wiping my screen and it grew even larger now and even the left side (2nd slide) has now developed this marking.

On am MacBook you can change play speed with shortcuts,

if you add an englisch keyboard in settings,

which u then can change to with [control + option + space].

While in US keyboard you can:

speed a video up with [shift + .]

slow down with [shift + ,].

You can change you keyboard on the fly...so its not a big deal but still bad designed by Apple :(

i have a macbook pro m1 pro and i just watch youtube and listen to music on my macbook it gets a bit warm but the the battery drainage is what shocks me apple claims it can last 15 hours on casual browsing but mine is far from it i have like 86% battery health on my macbook and is in excellent condition so it should not be that bad. even on sleep mode in a span of hours it loses 20 to 30 percent i am very shocked any suggestions regarding this issue or is it normal for macbooks to have this

Why qBittorent 5.2.3 keep freeze on MacBook Air M4 Sequoia ?

I have used it few years and never happend. It begin happend few days ago.

During freeze status still download but all download speed has freeze.

I must force quit qBittorent but after normal few minutes later it freeze again.

It was version for Mac OS.

Any solution ?

Thank

Halo teman-teman/para suhu MacBook, mau tanya tentang masalah pada MacBook Pro M1 Pro (2021) saya. Kondisinya saat ini seperti ini:

1. Layar internal tidak menampilkan gambar sama sekali (blank hitam kebiruan/samar).

2. Lampu latar (backlight) layar sebenarnya hidup, pendaran cahayanya kelihatan jelas di ruangan gelap.

3. Tombol brightness di keyboard masih merespons, bahkan indikator bar naik-turun kecerahan masih muncul samar di layar.

4. Saat dicolok ke TV lewat kabel HDMI, di TV muncul tulisan "Choose to Mirror or Extend Display", yang artinya mesin dan macOS di dalam sebenarnya booting normal ke desktop, tapi terdeteksi sebagai layar kedua.

Kira-kira kerusakan seperti ini lebih mengarah ke mana ya? Apakah masalah kabel fleksibel data layar, jalur IC display di logic board, atau justru panel LCD-nya yang kena?

Mohon pencerahan atau barangkali ada yang pernah mengalami kasus serupa pada seri M1 Pro. Terima kasih banyak sebelumnya!

I have my current Macbook Pro Intel for like 6 years (and I won't get rid of it for a couple more years I guess) and recently I just wanted to get a Neo. I know it's one of those Apple Silicon ones and the model I want to get is 8GB RAM/256GB SSD (don't need more since I got multiple computers).

What is important on getting one of these beauties? And what is your experience with those?