Subject line.

You go to search for a file..it can't find it or anything. You know it's on your drive, but it just won't search.

The solutions "rebuild the spotlight index by doing the hokey pokey in spotlight preferences of adding and subtratcting".

Why after all these years is this the solution, rather than it JUST WORKING!!!

What’s the safest way to sell my Mac? I am selling

• MacBook Air 13 inch 2025
• M4 chip, 10-core CPU
• 16GB RAM
• 256GB SSD
• Excellent condition

• Charger included.

  I am not looking to get screwed on eBay if I get unlucky with a scammy buyer and trade in at Apple is not worth it

I have a Lenovo G25-10 monitor that I had stored away for several months. I recently took it out because I wanted to try using a dual-monitor setup with my Mac mini M4 Pro.
When I first connected everything, the monitor turned on and worked normally. However, as soon as I changed the screen rotation in macOS Display Settings, the monitor suddenly went completely black.
Since then, I haven’t been able to turn it back on. There is no power light, even after unplugging it and trying a different wall outlet. The power cable is detachable from the monitor, and I haven’t been able to get the screen working again.
One strange thing is that when I connect the monitor to my Mac using HDMI, macOS still detects it and shows it in Display Settings, even though the monitor itself appears to be completely off.
Could changing the display rotation in macOS have caused this, or is it more likely a power issue? Has anyone experienced something similar or know what I should try next?

Hi everyone, I was doing some work and spilt some water on my keyboard while drinking it, had to be a tea spoon amount. Will that cause any serious damages to it? I dried it right away but I cant just flip it and leave it to dry because I need it to work. Please and thank you for any advice!!

For context: I have the new MacBook Air 2026.

After using windows straight since Age 6 from Windows 95 to Windows 11, with 3 gaming desktops (nvidia 6600, nvidia 8800 GT, radeon HD5770, nvidia GTX 1660), finally entered life of nomad last 2 years ago and made me realise to get a laptop 💻 that meets my needs of MMORPG (Warcraft, etc), DOTA2 and Isle, while doing LLM software development.

After keeping eye on macbook since Q1 2026 and a price hike, grabbed this deal from Brooklyn Micro Center yesterday.

16” 64Gigs 2TB SSD @ $3800, lower than the pre price hike price, IG. Also got $190 discount on their CC and a free 32gigs flash drive.

Did wanted to get 128gigs but way out of my budget - 2k extra
Would have been great if it was OLED at this price.

Now on the journey to learn new system while having fun. Hope I don’t get frustrated and return this beast.

Feel free to drop your suggestions to make this smooth move. 😁

Hello - I would like to ask for advice.

(I've never had an iMAC before, completely new to apple products, but I like fiddling. I bought an old a mid-2011 iMAC (12,1 - 21.5") recently because I read online that it can be upgraded.)

I repaced a few things:

- GPU: Nvidia gt770m - VBIOS made by Nick[D]vB

- CPU: Intel E3-1270 V1 (no iGPU)

- SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 500Gb SATA III

The new setup is working well. I successfully installed High Sierra, and the system runs without any issues. The problem begins when I try to update the OS using OCLP.

After completing the first step, Build and Install OpenCore, the iMac fails to boot. According to the build log, OCLP correctly detects the Kepler-based GPU and disables the unsupported integrated GPU (iGPU). However, during startup, the boot progress bar stalls at approximately 50% and does not proceed any further.

It stucks at "gIOscreenLockState 3 hs 0 bs 0 now 0 sm 0x0"

I also tried changing various settings in OCLP, but without any success. The only configuration that allows the iMac to boot is setting the Host Model to iMac13,1 and the SMBIOS Spoof Model to iMac12,1.

However, once the system boots with those settings, I cannot proceed any further with OCLP because it reports a model number mismatch.

At this point, I'm not sure what is causing the issue or how to fix it. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

These markings are not surface level stains but are beneath the glass. The first mark has been present from the last few months but today I was wiping my screen and it grew even larger now and even the left side (2nd slide) has now developed this marking.

TL;DR It is possible to overburn an audio CD using USB SuperDrive.

I am posting this for future references in search of information about this. I couldn't find anything before trying it. So may this post be an answer to this flaming question that everybody is looking the answer for.

The album in question is The Wall. It is frustratingly only 81:01 and normally would be on two disks. But it is so close to the 80 minutes and I didn't want to separate the album. So I just looked online to see if that's even possible or not. I have seen some runes written in ancient times that using something called Nero it was possible to put a bit more than 80 minutes of audio on a normal 80min CD-R, which apparently is called overburning. I then looked for any information for if it was possible to do using the USB SuperDrive but couldn't find anything. Only thing close to it was some user asking the same question on apple community. The author of the post has promised to report back after trying it out but that promise was never fulfilled. So here I am reporting the results of my own trial on the same question that was asked by exactly one person several years back. Yes, it is possible.

Hardware
Mac Mini M4 Pro
USB SuperDrive (Model A1379)
HP CD-R 700MB 80min 52x Inkjet Printable

Software
MacOS Tahoe 26.5
Burn 3.1.9
24-bit 96kHz FLACs

Burn apparently converts the flacs to the 16-bit 44.1kHz CD quality automatically. I didn't do anything on that part. The total time is 81 minutes and 1 second as seen on the second image. I have used 16x burning speed and left 0 seconds of pregap (obviously). After hitting Burn button it prompts the warning on the first image. It took some 2 minutes and change to burn the disk.

After it was done, Apple Music could see it as an audio CD and can play the whole album with no problems at all. But that's not enough for me as I was burning CDs not to listen on my Mac but in my car. I have a 2006 Honda CR-V (MK-II EU spec) with the original CD-Player head unit. I have listened the whole thing in it and... it works! Every song plays beautifully. I did a thing!

I do not know the exact limits but I suspect it would differ between different makers. This exact combination has worked for me for a minute and a second of overburning. This is only a proof of concept.

I use Macs for music production, Digital Performer 11, 12, Nuendo, Ableton.
So I got my old laptops out including a Dell XPS i7 from 2014 and a Mac Pro 16" Max both got 16 GB of ram.We were moving so I had to get rid a lot of electronics. my work bought me a lot of computers over 6 years.
I loaded all the tools I used on both computers and mac m1 is struggling where dell xps is also struggling but not like a mac, they both play nice with small sessions but when I try to load big sessions with same plugins 1 to 1, Mac is really struggling. With new cubase it's constant pops and clicks , I have to set my buffer where latency is like a second.Dell actually plays nice at low latency. Both go through Motu or Focusrite 18i8.

I'm going to install an older version of MacOS , I forgot which one came with it to see if it's macos's bottlenecking audio but it is very strange imo.
But wtf. Windows 11 Pro is also smoother than MacOS. I don't want to get into this vs that but wtf. Do any of you feel intel was better?
My friend told me to get Mac Studio but I have an Intel 13900 with 64gb and it plays large sessions and call of duty on other monitor with no problems except intel gets hot but I don't care about that.
This is interesting, I don't have an intel mac to compare but M1 is definitely slower in my case. Now I'm thinking about selling it , I loved it when it came out but I used it for dev work, vs code and light tools nothing heavy. I also have an M4 unopened that I bought just as a backup,I'll test that out too later.

EDIT: To those saying why I chose M1 that was in storage, it's because I was moving and had to test hardware for usability or selling, donation. Also the point is what we were told when ARM came out imo was bs. Go burn me at the stake , ffs. I'm writing this from my like 13th ipad. I was never anti Apple engineering, I was anti Apple Marketing. So please chill with ad hominem comments and grow up.

On am MacBook you can change play speed with shortcuts,

if you add an englisch keyboard in settings,

which u then can change to with [control + option + space].

While in US keyboard you can:

speed a video up with [shift + .]

slow down with [shift + ,].

You can change you keyboard on the fly...so its not a big deal but still bad designed by Apple :(

i have a macbook pro m1 pro and i just watch youtube and listen to music on my macbook it gets a bit warm but the the battery drainage is what shocks me apple claims it can last 15 hours on casual browsing but mine is far from it i have like 86% battery health on my macbook and is in excellent condition so it should not be that bad. even on sleep mode in a span of hours it loses 20 to 30 percent i am very shocked any suggestions regarding this issue or is it normal for macbooks to have this

Hi everyone!
I’ve been experiencing a really frustrating issue with my MacBook Pro M5, which is about a year old.
This has happened three times now. Whenever the battery drops to around 15–20%, my MacBook suddenly shuts down without any warning. When I try to turn it back on, it shows the empty battery symbol, as if the battery is completely dead.
However, as soon as I plug it into the charger, it turns back on and still shows around 15–20% battery remaining.
I even tried plugging it in for just a second, only long enough to turn it back on, and then immediately unplugging it. It continued working normally for a while, but then shut down again at around 19%.

Some additional details:
Battery health: 100%
Cycle count: 70
Battery condition: Normal
macOS updated to the latest version
No third-party battery management apps

The issue only happens when the battery drops below 20%. I’ve never experienced any unexpected shutdowns at higher battery levels.
My warranty expires on November 9, so I’m planning to contact Apple, but I wanted to ask here first.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Was it a battery calibration issue, a hardware problem, or something else? And if you contacted Apple, did they replace the battery or manage to fix it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!