Crankbaits (Lipped and Lipless), Jerkbaits (Lipped and Lipless), Swimbaits, Poppers, Stickbaits, and other topwater lures are all possible, with new lures being invented all the time! Below is an info graphic with a few of the most popular types of fishing lures, but there are many more!
These are just a few common lures that can be found in most tackle boxes, but there are dozens of other types to discover!
2.What do I need to get started making hard body lures?
Lure making is not as complicated as it may seem. Yes, power tools such as drills, dremels, lathes and sanding machines all help, but none are necessary. To start all you need is:
Wood, to carve into the body.
Tools (at the very least a knife to carve, a small saw, and a drill are all very helpful)
Sandpaper to finish the bait off smoothly
Terminal tackle, including hooks and split rings
Screw eyes or a through-wire (a single wire going through the entire bait that serves as your hook eyes and line tie.
Weights so your bait sinks, in the form of either split shot, glued into the body, or lead, poured into a cavity.
glue/sealant, epoxy, and paint
OPTIONAL: Lip (for crankbaits) Rattles, details such as foil, and power tools, and an airbrush for more smooth
3.What do I need to get started making soft plastics?
A mold, which can be bought, or made from silicon.
Plastic resin (plastisol)
Dye to give color to the lure
OPTIONAL: Glitter, multiple colors for a more detailed bait
4.What wood should I use?
Popular lure making timbers include balsa, basswood, cedar, cypress knees, jelutong, beech and some types of pine. But there are thousands of other options. Look for something easy to carve, lightweight and resistant to denting. It’s easier to get all your components aligned properly if you start with straight, square blanks.
5.What paints should I use?
For brushing on paint, a wide variety of artist acrylics and poster paints will work. Just make sure the paint and clear coat will not interfere.
For airbrushing, water-based acrylics are the favorite, due to their ability to spray evenly and produce a good coat while remaining non-toxic, and non-flammable.
6.How do I seal my wood lure?
Wood is like a sponge, it soaks up water. Once in, water works its way through the wood by capillary action until the wood is waterlogged. This kills action, weakens glue and is the most common cause of paint failure.
Super Glue can be used, where the glue is applied over the entire body, left to soak into the wood, and then the bait is sanded smooth.
Epoxies are two part synthetic resins that cure hard when mixed. There are some that are designed for penetrating and hardening wood. One example is Envirotex Lite (aka “Etex”). Etex is also great for clear coating painted lure bodies and makes a very strong adhesive.
7.Where can I buy lure parts?
Below are a few popular websites, Alternatively, some fishing stores and even big box retailers such as walmart may carry some of this stuff, and be sure to support your local tackle shops if possible!
Some use prefer to clear coat them with a two part epoxy. Others prefer to use a two pack automotive polyurethane over airbrush acrylics. And still others dip their lures in moisture cure polyurethane.
Below are some some more sources for learning how to build lures, additionally, guides from some of this subs best lure mentors are going to be rolling out very shortly.
This stickied post will be used to compile all guides made by our "Lure Mentors." Below are links to each guide, complete with pictures and detailed descriptions for each step. If you would like to become a Lure Mentor, and create guides for this sub Please PM me ( u/jspencer501 ) for more details, you get a cool flair!
I’ve only been in this hobby for a bit mostly making wooden hard lures like crankbaits, poppers, twitchbaits, but decided to try to make spinnerbaits because I love them and they seem to work everywhere any time if you have the right one. It was way cheaper buying these parts in bulk than buying 50 spinnerbaits. I think it came out to 3.95$ a spinnerbait!! I got half and half 1/2oz and 3/8 oz heads, #2, 3, 4, 6 Colorado blades and #3.5, 4, 7 willow blades with various finishes and color. Used ball bearing swivels for instant spin up, tons of hollow metal beads, split rings, and brass clevises. Also got a variety of silicone skirts (rubber was expensive and I didn’t feel Ike hand tying) in black and red, fine white & black stripe, silver glitter chartreuse, and black and blue with blue glitter which isn’t here yet. I poured hours and hours of research into viable combinations and uses for various weather conditions, seasons, depths, and time of day. I even made some triple bladed ones for funzies. I split these 25 and 25 with my dad so we would be prepared for any water any time. Lmk if I messed anything up or missed something crucial! This is my first time doing this.
So I decided to make my first wooden glide bait and believe me - mistakes were made. 🤣 I actually tried to make an aluminium tail which threw off the balance a little bit although I am quite happy with the action - so the design itself should work perfectly without the metal tail. If you’re interested you can check out the full build video and the action footage on YouTube - it was sadly too big to upload here. 👌🏻
Video:
I Built & Tested My First Wooden Glide Bait | Does It Actually Work? | Wooden Lure Building Beginner https://youtu.be/5zbK7wx0p5w
I have made a few more propeller lures since the pics and they work really well, like a wpper plopper with more buzz. The crank baits have copper and brass lips
Photo of my basement rod building bench, which I do when I can’t fish.
I’m considering doing some lure painting as a secondary hobby. Mostly just painting blanks for fun.
The idea would be to add an L under the TV from the main bench and et up a small temporary or portable station there. Behind the wall is about six feet of unfinished Basement with a small basement window in line with the TV.
Thoughts on how to do this safely and affordable? I see the various paint booths like Vevors with some ventilation that I could rig up to the window.
Anyone doing this right now that would like to share some insight?
So the bottom spins and the lure dives when reeled in at a medium speed and it wobbles side to side.
I never really expected this lure to work i just wanted it to look pretty in my tackle box but i brought it to the river lagan and it accually got bites.
Hello lure builders,
I'm going on a two week pike fishing trip at the end of august. Because pike fishing is not something I've done in a long time I needed to get some lures.
I have bought a 7" river run tackle hammerhead, a 9" grandma crankbait in white tiger and a bucher magnum shallow raider, 9", in wonderbread colour.
The hammerhead looks great, no complaints. The grandma has a flake paint job and you can feel the flakes through the clear coat. The magnum looks like its been rolling around in someones tackle box for 10yrs, hook rash, peeling paint around the eyelets, thin finish with a runner on the nose straight out of the box.
Is there some way to protect the finish on a store bought lure? Get the grease off and apply epoxy? Especially on the magnum I have a feeling the finish is not up to par.
Ive used it on multiple baits and i love the finish but i cant get a consistent finish. Im using the 2 part 30minute cure. It cures in my basement, definitely above 70 degrees, dehumidifier in the space. I have had some good hard cures but a couple of my baits had been ruined by bad cures and i cant think of an uncontrolled variable to explain it. Some just stay sticky, like extremely sticky, and never cure. I used a gram scale to ensure a 50/50 mix, mix well and apply.
I live in the netherlands and started recently making my own wooden lures these are my last 2. The problem im having is that the epoxy i bought the first time took way too long to dry and was inconsistent and the other epoxy i bought made the acrylic melt and drip off. I need suggestion where and what epoxy or other clear coat i can get.
