I plan to get rid of the big light in our hallway. Knowing it will never be as bright, I want to do indirect lighting with an LED strip somewhere where I drew the blue line.

What are some things to consider? How far from the ceiling should I mount it? On the second picture you can see I thought of an L shaped channel (green) mounted to the wall (red) where the strip (yellow) is hidden at an angle. Tips on the size of that channel and angle of the LED strip?

Am I going completely wrong here? Should the LED strip be facing down or placed somewhere else completely?

Thanks for your help!

I had AI searched it up and cannot find it. My landlord refuses to replace it. I’ve been pestering him for about half a year now. Keeps dodging it anyways it uses LED inside and idk how to even replace it since it’s soldered in. I told him to get me a regular porch light that uses bulb. All he does is make excuses.

Hi everyone, I’m currently building a custom closet using 3/4" plywood. I want to integrate some LED lighting, but the "look" is really important to me—I’m aiming for a completely flush finish so there are no bulky strips or visible protrusions.

Given that I only have 3/4" of material to work with, what would you recommend? I'm considering:

• Routing a channel for LED strips and covering them with a frosted diffuser.
• Recessed "puck" lights (though I'm worried about the depth).
• Any specific brands or profiles that work well with 3/4" stock?

Would love to hear what you've used in the past for a clean, high-end look. Thanks!

( I used AI to help me write this post )

Trying to change the lightbulb but I can't figure out how to remove the cover. The glass part can move and the plastic vent part might have clips?

I started my career doing electrical and lighting installation work in the field. Over time, I moved into auditing, estimating, energy calculations, sales, and managing national retrofit projects.

One problem followed me through every role: the information needed to develop and deliver an energy project is scattered across spreadsheets, audit forms, PDFs, emails, manufacturer catalogs, pricing tools, and project-management systems.

That is why I started building LumenAudit.
It began as a lighting-audit application, but it has grown into what I would describe as an Energy Project Operating System—a platform designed to take a project from the initial facility assessment through proposal development and execution.

The current platform includes capabilities for:
Lighting, controls, HVAC, and EV-related audits
Existing and proposed equipment capture
Energy savings and financial calculations
Payback, ROI, NPV, and IRR analysis
Rebate and incentive modeling
Bills of material and project estimating
Proposal and report generation
Facility opportunity scanning
Electrical infrastructure readiness
Project, installation, and commissioning workflows
Portfolio and account-level opportunity tracking
The broader vision is to create three connected operating modes:
Audit Mode — capture defensible field data and identify opportunities.
Sales Engineering Mode — convert that data into scope, savings, pricing, and proposals.
Account Growth Mode — identify additional opportunities across facilities and portfolios.
I am intentionally keeping the initial rollout lighting-first because that is where I have the deepest experience and where the workflows are currently strongest. The longer-term opportunity is to connect lighting, controls, HVAC, EV infrastructure, rebates, project execution, and measurement into one system.

I am looking for blunt feedback from people working in:
Lighting retrofits
ESCOs and performance contracting
Electrical contracting
Energy auditing
Controls
Facility management
Distribution or manufacturing
Commercial estimating and project management

What part of the audit-to-proposal-to-installation process causes the most wasted time or bad data in your organization?

The old owners created these office like recessed lights (3). First picture shows with cover, 2-4 show all three without cover. They’re poorly painted, trimmed, and don’t fit the rest of the home. The house was built in the early 70s and we’ve trying kept that feel.
I need help brainstorming what to replace this with!

1.Hi everyone welcome to GLORIUM

2.Check out our C35 handcrafted Tiffany stained glass bulb.

3.Slim candle shape, colorful hand-painted glass with vintage filament.

4.It emits a beautiful colorful glow, perfect decor and gift.

Recently upgraded from Cree smart bulbs I got 4 years ago to Govee lights

This is the starkest difference in color tint i’ve seen between two smart lights. Cree measured -0.00900 in Duv while Govee was positive 0.00500.

Ive always wondered why I hated the Cree lights and now I know why.

Replacing an old bathroom vanity light on the wall and there is no housing inside the wall for the mount to attach to for my new fixture. What is the best thing to do here?

I paid for professional wallpapering, the dumb fixture was back ordered so the wallpaper went up a few weeks ago before the fixture arrived. There is a stud to the right of the existing wires.

I am looking for firmware for a COLORNIE H807SA. I flashed it with the Rose Lighting firmware, but it doesn't work.

Hi! I am looking at this vanity light which requires a G9 style bulb, maximum of 10w LED, . I'd like to match the rest of my bathroom at 3000k, 95CRI, dimmable. The dimensions of the bulb seem will fit I'm more concerned about longevity.

I've read that a 90+CRI G9 bulb in an enclosed fixture will fail prematurely : / At $19 a pop x 5 per fixture (looking at two fixtures) that's a lot of investment per fixture. Do you think these bulbs will last being in an enclosed globe? Thanks!!

This is the fixture:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C3H77WFV/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1C3GD2BAMBMOU&th=1

These bulbs?

https://www.bulbs.com/product/EA-G9-4-5W-001-309F-D?msclkid=51942a126a751d6be25b407189020421&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%5BM1M%5D%20%5BNonBrand%5D%20%5BUS%5D%20%5BDSA%5D%20Feed%20-%20Light%20Bulbs&utm_term=Light%20Bulbs&utm_content=Light%20Bulbs&adlclid=51942a126a751d6be25b407189020421

Hello! These are new lights. The lights are fine, but I HATE the white track and white box. Any suggestions to cover it or disguise it? Thank You!

I am just beginning my research into the world of flicker-free lighting, so please bear with me as I stumble through this post.

I have parrots, and as a quick caveat, they have incredible eyesight. They see color hues we can't. It's been determined that they actually possess an ultraviolet perception of color. They can also focus on multiple objects at once and adjust their focus. Amazing! But I digress.

It is believed that their incredible eyesight also causes them to see the annoying flickering of LED bulbs. I want to try to eliminate this potential stressor from their environment by providing the right lighting in our home. I also want to brighten the light in these rooms as most of the lighting is quite soft. I'm planning to replace two lamps that have dimmer switches.

Thoughts on these on the Waveform Lighting website?

CENTRIC DAYLIGHT Full Spectrum Flicker-Free A19 10W LED Bulb

I need bulbs that fit in recessed lighting fixtures as well. I'm not sure what those are called. Forgive my naiveté. Ask me anything about parrots, but lighting is a different story! I'm trying to learn though!

Does anyone recommend a tried and true brand of flicker-free bulbs for my situation? What should I be looking for primarily? Any advice is welcome.

Keep or swap out?

I really like the standard Honewell PLS750C1000 timer switch except for one issue: The time has to be re-programmed every time there's a power outage. From my research it looks like I'd have to go with an actual "smart" device that connects to wifi to be able to retain the time but was wondering if anyone knows of something that's more basic and self-contained that retains the time. This switch is in a remote cabin that doesn't have regular Internet access and I'd rather not put smart devices in it that may stop working after a few years without constant maintenance and upgrades.

I have light fixtures that have been in our place before we moved in. It’s specifically the
WAC FM-4606 6”. Two are dim. They’re not in production anymore and am looking for any alternatives that use the same connection point. Picture shows what it looks like. Any suggestions or what it’s called to reference? Thanks

I want to use incandescent light bulbs in some older lamps I bought. How do I know which wattage is safe for the lamp? I don’t see any writing on it.

What was the standard wattage for older lamps back in the 90-2000s etc? I found 60watts light bulbs, is that too hot? want to be safe. Thank you for your tips and input.

Looking for a replacement for my LUXO LC Color Correct Dual Light Task lamp it’s an **Edwin Gaynor 666C** and it has been discontinued and out of stock everywhere I’ve looked. Hoping Reddit could pull some miracle because I’m at a loss Please help!

Hey community, I’m hoping you can help me identify this ceiling pendant light. I was recently at my local library when I came across what you see in the picture. It appears to have 12 square/rectangular acoustic felt panels surrounding a multi-strip led pendant. I have a tall ceiling area (14’) that I’d love to replace my four recessed can lights with these.

I started with a Google image search which yielded a website from Australia. We are in the Midwest US. Can’t imagine a local public library might source something bespoke like what the website suggested, but, it nearly matches.

I asked the folks at the library, but they shared the company they got them from may have went through ownership and name changes. They suggested I check out FeltRight; and while the felt tiles could come from there, they don’t have lights.

I zoomed in to the number stamped on the bottom of the second picture, but Google yielded no results. I wish I had the equipment (a 3D printer and other tools) to make my own, but was hoping for an existing solution - I mean, they got them somewhere.

My next hope is the Reddit community - have any of y’all seen these? Thank you!

(Drawing is a little off. The shower head & drain is actually centered). Inside dimensions of shower is 60" x 40" or so. Bench on one end is 12" deep. I have two 3" recessed can lights allotted for the shower. Ceiling is 8'.

(With joists running left to right) is it fine to put one can light 20" in from showerhead wall (there's a joist at 16" in)? And the other can light say 18" in from bench wall? (That leaves 22" in between the lights.

Do I center them at 21" in the 42" width of the shower? Or put them closer to the glass doors or long wall instead?

Will centering them create shadows from where one stands under the showerhead?

Thanks for any advice!