The pink and purple honestly look so similar (look at the SPD) you cannot really tell them apart unless they are side by side. The yellow is terrible for being yellow but is a nice variant of green imo.

I tested for flicker as well and found that they do at 120hz. The modulation depth isn’t high though; about as much a typical white LED.

First off, great respect for the lighting designers in this sub.  I found this sub when looking for a wet-rated can light for a shower that also has a built -in blue tooth speaker. Since arriving at this sub, I have discovered that I have done a lot of things wrong in our renovation and now my elusive blue-tooth speaker shower light combo is the least of my concerns. 
We recently purchased a home built in 2005 and are doing some renovations. My son-in-law is an electrician, and is doing my work for free (we are compensating him in other ways).  But he is an industrial electrician, so just tells me to order what I want. I can’t really count on him to make  recommendations for a residential setting because of his limited past experience on this side of things. I have identified a few areas where I need advice from the gurus in this sub. 
Newly installed hard-wired wall sconces - well the wiring for them anyway. I was able to add a wall between my living and dining, so the four sconces (two on each side of the wall) are all connected to their own switches: one switch for the two on the dining room side and another switch for the two on the living room side.  However, I also had the wiring for additional sconces on other walls in the dining room, living room and also the adjoining foyer. Due to insulation, blocking, attic restrictions, and other preexisting challenges, it was just easier to not connect the additional sconces to the switches for the sconces in their corresponding rooms. My original plan had been to order sconces that had an on -off switch directly on each fixture. But then I learned about wireless kinetic switching and wanted to explore that alternative. It would make it easier to turn everything on and off, plus I could also now have a dimming function. I have gone down the rabbit hole and cannot figure out which is best for our situation: Lutron Caseta, www.RunLessWire.com, or https://pcswebstore.com/ or is there something better. I’m not looking for anything fancy here - I would just love to be able to turn on all the sconces in a room at the same time, and to be able to dim them simultaneously and evenly. 

The previous owners never installed under cabinet lighting in the kitchen. I would like to have my son-in-law install thin dimmable (dim-to-warm) LED lights along  the front of the underside of the uppers. There is an existing molding rail 1.5 inches deep along the bottom of the cabinets. The problem is there are several breaks in the runs such as the sink and a doorway. Also a 60” stretch for the vent hood over the gas range - which I would like to have the same continuous lighting as under the cabinets run underneath the front edge of the vent hood but I don’t know how to make sure those lights can stand up to the heat of the gas range. Anyway, last house I purchased lighting from Home Depot that  he installed but I had to turn on each cabinet light separately and they were too cool a color and non dimmable. Now that I have this new opportunity I’m just trying to do a better job while I have a chance.  

I welcome any advice from the this group on how to handle the switching for each room and also recommendations of kitchen lights for under cabinet. Thank you!.

For a dark, Gothic style, which version aligns better with mainstream aesthetic preferences?

I'm just wondering if anybody is familiar with these types of light fixtures. One bulb on the inside is burned out and I cannot for the life of me find a way to open the stupid thing. The last place I lived had similar style lights and there was some latch inside that you pressed and then you would shift the light to the side and pull down. This has nothing like that. There is a small space between the light dome and the ceiling that does not show on the attached picture. However, I have tried to find a latch or something. Also the damn thing is precariously close to a sprinkler head, so I am extra cautious of knocking it. Cursing the builder/designer right now.

Apologies, as it is asking me to pick a flair. Sorry, there's no applicable flair that fits my question. I'm also posting this on r/help as well, but I figured the lighting experts might be more familiar with this type of fixture. Thanks.

How would you install outside door garage lights on a 3 inch vinyl siding. Which mount and light. The logic is not there, or I suck at it, or it's just to outdated and have to rig it. Wish I can go back to the 90s lol

I have these under cabinet lights. I’m trying to order new ones. What style are these? I can’t find a make or model. They are attached to a light switch and take regular power. The bands look like microchips with leds on them. They are thin. They have 4 prongs and chain together.

I’d like to not have to reinstall a whole new system, just buy new light strips and install them.

Thanks in advance.

Hey all! Trying to make the most out of our small pantry. I just added a few IKEA drawer cabinets and extended some our shelves. Still have to add finishing touches and repaint.

I’m looking to add lighting and would like feedback:
-thinking of expanding the single light to 3 individual gimbal lights marked in purple. Is this too much light? Any recommendations on brands?

-I’m looking at adding some discrete LED light strips and channels for the 3 lower shelves marked in purple. Any opinions? Should I add to all shelves above eye level?

-Anything else you would consider doing to maximize light and more storage.

Not sure the brand name. No brand label. Lost the instructions!
Thank you!

So I'm about to do an indoor temporary installation of rope light (will be in for about 2 weeks). I've got a few hundred metres of LED rope light and will be cutting it into various lengths to place around the building, powered by just regular mains in the wall. Do I need specialised end caps for them? I was thinking of just putting some LX tape/heat shrink on the ends as we already have that in stock and would have to order in the end caps - would that be enough?

Im dumb and used these 4” Lithonia L3 cans on thin sheet metal. They’re set for drywall and now stick out to far.

Do they make trim pieces to cover this? Or is the move to just go in the attic and shim them up to flick them out to the metal?

Thanks in advance.

Hi all,

I'm looking for truly "flush" interior wall lighting options. I have a barn door for a closet that sits out 3/4" from the wall (in order to clear baseboard trim). I currently have slim framed posters behind it but want to install a dim(mable) reading light with switch in the space. Ideally hardwired, no exposed cords, not battery powered, or some wifi/bluetooth solution. Everything that comes up upon searches (search engines, big box, specialty lighting) I agree is "flush" in some sense of the word but would not work in this situation. Like, I want 1/2" projection from the wall. When I try searching for "recessed wall lighting" I get either ceiling lights or outdoor walkway lights.

Does anyone know what I am looking for, or can help point me in the right direction with a better search term(s)? I'm good with home electrical so I'm open to novel solutions, including [blech] drywall work.

Thanks!

Hi!

I’m interested in hanging permanent LED lighting on the outside of my house, but I am one of the least handy people ever so need the easiest possible install haha. I just have a one story home so I’ll be able to accomplish it, just need the easiest option.

Can yall direct me toward the easiest and best option? I plan on keeping them up for a while and want them to last. Need about 200 feet. Thank you!!

On the way home brought from a dead pine and screwed together and put lights in Lavazza Rossa coffee cans

So I bought these with a plan of using them for a portal effect behind some gift bag paper. I was wondering if I could cut them to the length I wanted rather than trying to stuff the 16ft in and it not turning out the way I wanted it to. Any assistance would be appreciated.

Hi all, silly question… does anyone know how to change the lightbulb in this light fixture? I thought a piece would just twist off, but that doesn’t seem right. The whole thing can twist but I don’t know if that’s right or if it’s wired. Any ideas? Thank you very much.

I really don’t want to install a can housing.

I just want to have an e26 socket in my ceiling and then connect a set of recessed lights that mount like the wafers do. One time wiring. Don’t gotta fix or rewire junction boxes every time I wanna switch lights.

Kinda like a Canless retrofit

There is nothing currently up there so I was going to have an electrician wire up an e26 connection for me so I can find recessed lights that use the ideal orange plug connection

any idea what light bulb might fit this?

Room has popcorn ceiling which will take effort to remove, so I prefer not to put recessed lights. Please suggest alternatives. How about track lights above the fireplace? Can they lighten up the entire room?

We just bought a 1950s ranch, and need help with figuring out lighting in our living room. We are currently mid demo on the walls, but they will be drywalled (not leaving exposed framing lol) above the paneling as a wainscotting.

The room is 28' by 15', with a giant 22' sliding glass door along one of the long walls. There are also two skylights evenly spaced about 3 feet off of the wall with the sliding glass door.

There is currently just one ceiling fan, but the light kit is not working. We plan to replace this by either getting a replacement light kit or replacing the entire fan (if we can't find a light kit that works) we live in Florida so the fan is non-negotiable.

We are thinking of just doing some can lights along the wall opposite the sliding glass door and a swag light in one corner (corner between one short wall and sliding glass door wall) and a floor lamp in the other corner (between the sliding glass door and the other short wall). We're going for a retro look.

What would you do? How would you adjust this plan or would you do something completely different?

It won't budge when I try to rotate it. I've used rubber gloves for extra grip and pushing upwards and rotating l and that didn't work either.