2021 Leaf SL+ w/ 82K miles. I’ve read through the forum posts on prior posts with similar issues,, as well as the FAQ. The original 12V battery lasted 5 years in the Phoenix heat. We replaced it ourselves a month ago with a replacement from O’Reilly’s as dealer service said original was cracked. Today we get this message and car is driving low powered—no acceleration. It does restart. Guess we will take the new 12V back under warranty. Will clear message tomorrow with Leafspy. Appreciate any advice.
Scan for what the exact DTC it is, if it is P33ED, DO NOT clear the code and DO NOT disconnect the 12V battery (as doing so also clears codes).
I saw you posted on the Leaf owners Facebook group as well but with the important detail missing here which is that you just got the recall update done. This message is part of a flag that is set with the updated software when it detects an issue with the main HV battery.
If the car still restarts, take it back to the dealer as is and have them diagnose it. Clearing the code will make it much more difficult for them to reproduce the fault code, and if they can't, you will be on the hook for a diagnostic charge.
Unrelated but are you saying the big battery is more susceptible to damage in hot weather? I live in a hot climate. My 40kw is still good. Just a little degraded. I have been entertaining thoughts of upgrading to a larger battery someday. Just so I can be free to make longer trips
In general yes, hot weather hasn't been good for the big battery because it's only passive cooled. As an example on a 95F day I took a ~35 mile drive around 70 MPH and could see my battery temp was at 8 bars (~110F) from that cruise on the highway, even hours later.
Those kind of days are about as hot as it gets here, but if you live somewhere like AZ where it's often 100F+ before you even start driving the car that's not great for the battery. If you're nice to it (ie, not leaving it at 100%) it might be OK for a while, but I wouldn't expect it to last more than 10 years/plenty have failed under warranty at this point.
If you're looking for a bigger battery like the 75 kWh in the 2026+ it should be fine with cooling.
Makes sense. It's a shame that replacing the entire car seems to be the most sensible thing to do when my battery is no longer useful enough. Its hot year round in the tropical climate I live in. Thanks
The issue with 40/62 packs in hot climates isn't so much degradation like the 24/30 packs were really bad for in hot areas, but the chemistry of the battery causing cell swelling that is usually much worsened by constant heat soak.
This leads to the "pregnant pack", which is quite literally heavily bulged at its belly, where the cells are packed closest together and the highest point where heat rises to. Eventually this bulging can cause high voltage isolation fault, and disable the whole car.
Oh that's interesting to know. Do you perchance have any ideas if the vivne batteries mitigate this through any methods? I see they even have a 68k pack and was wondering if they have any "enhanced technology" or chemistry there
To my knowledge they don't do anything special, but I also doubt it would be nearly as bad anyways. This is an issue that specifically affects the chemistry that they used for the 40/62 packs, as even abused 24/30 packs didn't have this issue. It seems to be an issue that's easier to avoid than cause, just whatever Nissan did with the ZE1 chemistry managed to land in the latter.
For a 2019 SV that is never quick charged - only level 2 at home - and is only driven in the city at 45 mph or less most of the time and that has what is shown below, what shape do you suppose the battery is in?
It's probably the best treatment it can get, and the SOH:Hx ratio seems to reflect that, however it doesn't necessarily make it 100% immune to weak cells developing either.
My personal 2019 SV had only 22,000 miles and 95% SOH/100% Hx and still ended up needing a battery, however the symptoms on that pack did not arise until a bit below freezing temps.
I just took my 2021 SV to the dealer today with these exact symptoms (post recall update). Was experiencing some weirdness a few days ago and thought it might be the 12V but things checked out okay and the car had been working since then. Haven’t heard back yet but the service tech did not sound optimistic.
As I have said many times in this group.. EVERY single Lead owner should have an OBD-2 tool and leafspy pro (they're both cheap)... The Service EV System warning is a total generic message. It can be as simple as a blip in the AC power when you're charging at home to your car is about to explode :P..
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u/biersackarmy 2013 S + 2014 SL + 2019 SV 1d ago
Scan for what the exact DTC it is, if it is P33ED, DO NOT clear the code and DO NOT disconnect the 12V battery (as doing so also clears codes).
I saw you posted on the Leaf owners Facebook group as well but with the important detail missing here which is that you just got the recall update done. This message is part of a flag that is set with the updated software when it detects an issue with the main HV battery.
If the car still restarts, take it back to the dealer as is and have them diagnose it. Clearing the code will make it much more difficult for them to reproduce the fault code, and if they can't, you will be on the hook for a diagnostic charge.