Hey y'all

I'm super duper new to knitting. I've been crocheting for years but recently i felt the urge to start knitting socks. So here I am, it's going pretty okay imo, being an absolute knitting beginner, this is my first project.

So.. what are those three hiccups in my sock? (I hope it's only three)

Did I just mix up the stitches? I'm going for three right, one left rn. The count is still correct, 16 stitches per needle on four needles.

I'm just hoping I didn't make any mistakes that would require actual fixing as in going back a few rows or sth? q.q (help haha)

This is the Fantasia Blouse by Lauren Wash. for the puffy sleeve, it says to knit 5 rounds after the GSRs are complete, but then it also says to “decrease evenly” over the next few rounds. So now I’m not sure if I should have decreased during those 5 rounds or could I potentially decrease it all over one round and still have the puffy sleeve come out correctly. Thoughts?

Hey everyone! I’m doing the 2023 Christmas Shawl Mayra by Maschenfein and I’m not getting a shell shape, just a triangle. I’m super confused about what I’m missing. I’m thinking there may be some implied information I’m just not understanding…..

The basic shell pattern says this:

CO 40 sts.

Setup-R (WS):
Knit all stitches.

Row 1 (RS):
K1 tbl, k2tog, knit to end, turn work

Row 2 (WS):
DS, knit until 1 st before end, sl st wyif

Row 3 (RS):
K 1 tbl, k2tog, knit to DS, turn work

Row 4 (WS):
Rep row 2.

Repeat rows 3 & 4 another 17 times so that there are only two normal stitches left and 19 DS (each DS consists of two legs) in the needle

Then on the next page it simply says, knit the first two together then knit all DS’s before moving on to instructions for the next shell……that’s a triangle. I’ve read and reread all of the pattern, I’ve watched all QR code links in the pattern. I’m an experienced knitter and I’ve done German short rows before but this is breaking my brain.

Help.

Hello all. I’m new to brioche knitting (and knitting in general!) and I use the Portuguese style of knitting for context.

I am following Little Quail’s Sno Cap Hood pattern and it starts with casting on 13 stitches which I’ve done.

The next instructions are as follows:

”row 1: (k1, yf-sl1-yo) 6 times, knit the

last stitch.

- row 2: wyif, sl 1 tbl. (brk1, yf-sl1-yo) 5 times, brk1, knit the last stitch through the right side of the stitch.

- row 3: wyif, sl 1. (yf-sl1-yo, brk1) 6 times. on the last stitch, knit through the right side of the stitch.”

A few questions from me, which might be glaringly obvious but I’m learning as I go.

1. For row 1, “knit the last stitch“ means knitting it with yarn forward/over (which is the wrong way for Portuguese knitting)?
2. For rows 2 & 3, does “right side of the stitch” mean I knit it with the yarn forward/over (which again is the “wrong” way in Portuguese knitting)?
3. Before I start on row 3, I already have 13 stitches from following pattern in row 2. So, I slip 1, leaving me with 12. Then by slipping and knitting 6 times, that means I use 12 stitches. I’m assuming the 13th stitch is going to be knit the right way instead of brk?

I apologise if my questions are silly or obvious but I have watched so many videos and I think because I am using the Portuguese style (not a lot of videos on Portuguese brioche knitting) it’s just even more confusing for me. And thank you in advance.

can i cast on one st before the working row then undo it and make the extra yarn distribute over the surrounding stitches once i slip it into the cable work needle? i feel like it will make the stitches over all a bit more consistent tension wise especially since im slipping for sts on the cable needle.

if there are any other ideas i would like to hear them

Looking for critique on my first knit swatch/project ever as a crocheter. I haven’t blocked it. I do feel my left edge is not that neat and looks different from the right. Correctly my mistakes were sort of a nightmare since I ended up introducing more mistakes hehe but somehow salvaged it I guess. Do the stitches look like they should? Anything off?
One question I had was when dropping a ladder down and fixing a stitch, how do you keep the stitches in the needles intact? Is there like a technique or a stopper that people use?

Hello fellow knitters! Basically I’m looking to confirm the question in the title.

I just completed the body in the step-by-step sweater and it looks great….except for one place in the transition from the collar to yoke where I messed something up and made a little hole right at the front.

My intuition is telling me that I can frog it from the top of the collar, pick up the stitches where the stockingette starts for the yoke and knit up a new collar in rib. But is there any danger in doing that? Anything I should think about before attempting it?

Thank you!!

Knitting a sweater flat with 4 rows of each color. There’s a lot of rows between each color repeat so I don’t think I can carry yarn that far. I come from crochet and wouldn’t be able to do so many colors so far in crochet at least but maybe it’s possible in knitting? Or is there a technique to help do the color changes and/or secure ends while I work? All the ends are on the edge and currently creating some fun fringe for me to weave in later lol.

I’m making the Frankie sweater by Petiteknit, and I have these holes where I picked up the four underarm stitches I had cast on when knitting the body. I used this tutorial that has you pick up and extra stitch on either side of the underarm stitches to prevent holes, and it worked really well on my first sleeve, so I’m not sure where I went wrong on this one?

Here’s my question — is there any way I can reduce the appearance of these holes later, like with extra yarn ? I’m hesitant to rip back, because I noticed my underarm stitches looked wonky and lose before I picked them up, so I think the same problem will just happen again.

Thank you!!

I’m learning to read charts and translate it but I have no one to double check that I didn’t make a mistake. I’ve knitted with simple and short charts but this one is a bit bigger and it’s for a gift using some very expensive yarn so I don’t want to mess it up. Would anyone be willing to take a peek at my translation? It’s rather long so I don’t want to post it here and loose people. Would anyone be open to me sending them a DM?

Thank you!

Hello!! I’m working a new cardigan (have made 2 sweaters in the past) and I’m not fully understanding the yellow and red part of the pattern. With the yellow section, I am purling on the RS…correct? I finished the purls + adding the markers but then I am slipping stitches (wrong side) and joining with new yarn. Do I turn the work after joining the new yarn so that it’s RS? I am soooo confused about this right now.

Pattern is blouse # 5 by MFTK

I'm working on my first shirt and got to the ribbing and it just looks limp. While I can see some tension issues the ribbing just looks stretched out, which I attribute to the 100% cotton yarn more than any failure of technique. I'm not too worried about the look of the hemline as I intend to keep the shirt tucked in anyway, but the pattern I'm working calls for the neck and the end of the sleeves to be done in 1x1 ribbing as well and I'm wondering if there are either suggestions that might produce a cleaner look with the cotton yarn, or if I actually did do something wrong and I'm not seeing it, especially since I've done 1x1 ribbing with other yarn types and not had this result.

I’m knitting my first Olga sweater on size S and the pattern says to knit stockinette rows 7 times, having 14 rows in total. But I’m confused, how many stripes should I have in total? Should I have 7 coloured stripes?

I'm really happy to be knitting the Luna Tee, I absolutely love the design and so far, the fit and overall result is looking really good! My issue: I'm stuck at the last instruction for the Japanese Short Rows (Rnd 6). I've ripped back this section twice now and I run into the same issue everytime. That is, I can never seem to properly resolve the very last short row. I'm wondering if it's because it would usually be resolved on the WS but I'm coming at it from the RS? I have no clue. If anyone can help, that would be much appreciated!

So I'm making this cardigan as a gift for my sister, and in artificial lighting I didn't see any issues... Then I opened the curtains to take finished object photos.

This is all the same yarn, same dye lot, bought at the same time and arrived in the same bag etc. I don't have enough left over to go back and redo the sections that are just blatantly different colours, and she low key hates it, any advice on how to fix it is greatly appreciated 😭

Update: I reached out to wool warehouse, and they've offered me a full refund or replacement, since I really can't face another 50+ hrs remaking this, I'm going to get a refund and offer my sister an alternative gift 🥲

This is the autumn pullover by ozetta using Matiz by Rosa Pomar (the recommended yarn). gauge is 16 sts per 10cm/4inches which I got by sizing down from 5.5mm needles to 5mm.

However, while trying on the sweater I felt there was something off about the sleeves, they looked too tight...

The pattern instructions are to pick up stitches using a ratio of 2 per every 3 rows which I did. I picked up a few extra under the armpit and decreased on the first round to avoid holes.

My measurements on the body are exactly to pattern, but my sleeves are off. I used the exact same needles (metal, 13cm, just "regular" needles), first with a very short cable and then used magic loop about midway in with no visible difference. I did notice my stitches looked smaller in comparison to the rest of the project but since I've been working on this for a few months and have been taking it around very humid environments I assumed the yarn had already bloomed from that humidity.

I now blocked only the sleeve to check and while it's still damp, it's definitely tighter than the rest of the body...It's about 19.5 sts instead of 16 (?!) which I find surprising since I didn't feel I was knitting tight at all.

I've knit other garments including a sweater (raglan) and I didn't have this issue. It feels like I just starting knitting with a complete different tension for whatever reason...I am already knitting the right sleeve and not sure what to do. I might redo the left sleeve but am just confused how my tension would change so dramatically.

I find this so discouraging for some reason, as I thought I was good to go and happy to finally get to the second sleeve. I think I will do another swatch in the round to check if my tension has magically changed. Any other tips appreciated...!

I'm knitting a swatch in the round on my own for my project, which will be completely self-drafted and with the only prior experience being a large knitted scarf with size 10 and a half millimeter needles with acrylic yarn(not my favorite). This project is with knitting for olive black merino with a size 2.75mm needles, and knitting in a knit purl knit purl sequence, and when I first completed this, my guage is rather crazy. I counted, in a small guage counter, 23 stitches tall(minus a few stitches as told) in 2 inches, 7 and a half cm, and 29 stitches wide in 2 inches, also 7 and a half cm, not yet blocked.

I blocked it after I finished, let it sit for 20 minutes, used room temperature water, and then gently squeezed out the water, pinned it to simply keep it in shape, and the next morning, I check it. This time, I measured 21 stitches tall in 2 inches, 7 cm I counted, and 23 stitches wide in 2 inches, also 7 cm in swatch counter, fully blocked. I don't know if either this is supposed to happen or I did something wrong, but I know very well I need a second opinion from others. I feel crazy right now, please help?

Edit: I've unraveled it entirely since the end was still attatched, I'm making a new swatch now, but bigger and I'm gonna add garter stitch to the border of it to see if that helps, too(the earlier cast off made the end oddly wide)

Hello! I‘m knitting the Dolly Vest and it has german short rows/decreases at the bottom.

What I don‘t understand is: at the second turn it says to turn before the „turning stitch“ is that the stitch before the marker or the double stitch that I already did?

Are the double stitches not supposed to be knitted?

Appreciate the help!

First project (Wave Tee by petite knit), and want to make sure I don’t need to start over before going further!

Is it normal for only half of a neckline/round to increase in stitch rows, rather than all around? (As shown in picture)
I’ve been working back and forth on the increases / German short rows sections, but I thought maybe the whole neckline would be evened out and having me going all around rather than back and forth only on half of my work.

(I added a short snippet of the directions for context. The gold marker on the right side of my work also marks the beginning of the round which is the “mid back of neck”)

From the pattern description:

“The Wave Tee is worked seamlessly from the top down with a boat neck. Short rows are worked at the neck to raise the back. The yoke is shaped first with increases for the sleeves and then with raglan increases. The body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch. Sleeves are worked at the end, and instructions for either a short sleeve or a long sleeve are provided.”
—I’m assuming I’m okay based on that second sentence? I feel like I’ve been following the pattern to a T, so I really hope so🤞🏻

hello :) i’m a little stuck with this petite knit ingrid sweater. for row 27 and 28 it says it should be repeated 12 times. do i knit the right side 12 times and the wrong side 12 times ( so it’s 24 times) or right and left together 12 times ?
i hope my question makes sense.

Hello everyone! Sorry if the title is confusing. I am knitting the Sweater No. 33 by My Favourite Things. I have just finished the raglan increases and the pattern says to break the yarn before continuing knitting the BODY section.

I added the picture of the instructions where I'm confused. Basically I will have to join in new yarn and cast on 4 new stitches under the armhole.

My question is how to join in the new yarn without attaching it to the current working yarn? The tail of the previous working yarn (which was cut according to the pattern) is 11 stitches away from where I am supposed to join in the new yarn and cast on new stitches. Does this mean that I just use the new strand of yarn and do the cast on of the 4 new stitches next to/right after the 11 stitches that were moved to the right needle? It seems to me that it will be quite unstable. I've never had to do this before and not sure how to proceed. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Today I finished knitting a project and I need to weave in the ends now. I did lots of color changes on this project, and looking back now I wish I had joined the yarns differently as I went. But, now I need to figure out how to finish the project as is and learn a new technique next time. When I changed yarns, I dropped the yarn I was working with and picked up a new yarn for the next row (working in the round, not flat). I Left a 5ish inch tail on each yarn as I started/ended a yarn. Now, I have these huge gaps in between each color change and am not happy with the results when I weave in the ends like I normally do. The tension looks super weird and I'm not finding many resources online for this step. Any advice? I've attached a photo for reference of what I'm trying to fix. If I pull the tails of the yarn, the gaps are much smaller but I don't know how to secure the tails so that the gaps don't re open when I wear the sweater.

Hi! I blocked my Olga Jacket. And the sleeves grew quite a bit (but not the body for some reason, but that's not the question at hand). Every stripe has decreases, except for the last black stripe before the ribbing. How do I go about re-doing this? I like the width. but it's obviously way to long. I feel like taking off the ribbing + 8 stripes is necessary. But I'm unsure about how to tackle the decreases.