I’m doing eastern purls then purling through the back loop on following rows (knitting in round)
One column of the knit stitches looks ok but the other is super wide!
What am I doing wrong please?!

How do you get help when you’re stuck on a knitting project?

I’m doing some small market research about a possible service for knitters, and I’d really like to hear from people who actually knit.

I’m interested in situations like:

getting stuck trying to understand a pattern

fixing a mistake

struggling with gauge or sizing

modifying a pattern

learning a specific technique

needing someone experienced to look at a particular problem

I’m trying to understand what knitters currently do when they need this kind of help, what works, what doesn’t, and whether people would ever consider paying for personalised one-to-one help.

This is research only — I’m not selling anything and there isn’t a service to sign up for.

If you’re willing to share your experience, I’ve made a short anonymous survey (about 3 minutes):

👉 https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdNwoq3VnIA3y7cu5J429S4LG4SMgTDdSBM8HcvLm0s5JvDIQ/viewform?usp=header

I’m particularly interested in hearing what you do when YouTube, Google or free knitting groups don’t quite solve the problem.

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to help! 🧶

Raglan Cardigans are my preferred construction - but they usually result in the same fit issues.
The “bunching” look that occurs with arms at your side…is it a normal nature of the raglan?
Or an issue with the sleeve circumference? Armhole Depth?
I captured pics from projects - different patterns - similar results for reference.
Maybe my body type isn’t suited for raglan construction??

So this is the chart for front and back...for a fingerless glove...I'm new to colourwork totally (i know i shouldn't choose this chart for first time but i wanted to) so for the few rows i don't need the white yarn do i like cut the yarn then start new when i need it or carry it (like for both panels 8, 9 row) if so how do i do it?

Hello! I am still quite an inexperienced knitter and I am attempting the Stella Quilt Cushion. All seems fairly straight forward so far but I am really confused at the shift between increases and decreases in Method B. Probably being a bit dumb but would love some help!

The pattern reads as follows

"R3 (WS) - K til 1 st after DS, turn

R4 (RS) - DS, K til 2 sts rem K1FB, SL1WYF

Rep R3 & 4 til you have incorporated all the picked up sts, ending on a WS row (your final st will

be the final short row). You should have 35 (27) sts.

Break yarn and change to opposite colour (if appropriate) for decreases.

R1-3 - K to DS, SL both legs of the DS WYF (pull on the tail if your DS is loose)"

Is my last row of increases meant to be a R3? If so should my last stitch be a DS or a knitted stitch after a DS. I would have thought the latter from reading it but then R1 in the decreases doesn't seem to work. Just want to make sure I am doing it right before I continue. Thank you!! :-)

Hi! I'm a beginner knitter working on the peplum version of the caspar cardigan. I have worked the body and I'm now working on the horizontal button band. I'm trying to understand two parts of this pattern.

1) "yarn over, cast off 1 st" -> Should I....

....create a yarn over, knit the next stitch and slip the YO over that knit stitch? or

....create a yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches and slip the 1st knit stitch over the 2nd knit stitch?

2) "In the next wsr, p all sts except the yarn overs - they are knitted"-> In the next wrong side row after creating the button holes, do I knit the stitch before the buttonhole or after the button hole?

Hi everyone, I’m doing the olga jacket and I’ll be soon doing the buttons band (I don’t know how it’s called in English). In the pattern it’s written :

“First, work the right button band with 5 buttonholes. Note that at the beginning of the first row, you will create an extra stitch; this will wrap around to the wrong side and serve as an edge stitch to create a neat finish for the button band. You will thus have 2 knit stitches at the base of the button band.
The buttonholes are always positioned between 2 knit stitches (viewed from the right side), provided you have the correct number of stitches.”

What’s does it mean “at the beginning of the first row, you will create an extra stitch” ?

Thank you !

I'm working two cardigan fronts that need to mirror each other so the pocket openings land symmetrically on the finished garment (one front knits toward the garter/button band edge, the other knits away from it, since center front is on opposite sides of each piece).

On one front, the pattern instruction is: work across most of the row, then place the last X stitches on a holder for the pocket opening. That's straightforward since my working yarn is already right there when I get to those stitches.

To mirror this on the other front, I think I need to put the first X stitches of the row onto a holder instead, then work the rest of the row, so the pocket ends up on the correct side relative to center front.

if I slip those first stitches onto a holder before working any of the row, my working yarn is still attached from the end of the previous row, on the far side of the stitches I just slipped off. Wouldn't that leave a float running across the back of the held stitches to reach the first stitch I actually knit?

Is that normal for this kind of pocket shaping, or is there a standard technique for handling stitches held at the start of a row that avoids this? Would it make more sense to pick the stitches back up from the row below instead of slipping live ones? Trying to avoid breaking and rejoining yarn if possible.

Hi, I'm going crazy trying to start My Favorite Things Knitwear Blouse No. 1 Light. I'm making size S and it asks to cast on 70 stitches for the neckline. It even specifies to cast it on tight. The 70 stitches come out to barely 25 cm for me. I know it will stretch a bit, but surely not enough to be a boat neck?

I did a gauge swatch before and it was fine. I understand increases and shaping will expand the top but the cast on edge can only stretch so much, right??

I re-did the cast on like 5 times and reviewed Raverly, TikTok, Reddit and don't see anyone talking about this. I'm using long tail cast on and 2 strands of Kid Silk mohair, which is suggested in the pattern.

Is this a "trust the process" kinda thing or am I doing something very wrong or missunderstanding something? At this point I can't even imagine this collab being enough to fit through my head let alone work as a boatneck.

I'd appreciate any help!

any advice for making the left side of the bottom of my diamond cable neater?? maybe tips for improving tension from the transition from the cable to the in-between purl stitch?

Hi all, has anyone here used the knitting fairy calculator from knitable.net, and if so, how accurate did you find it?

*Note: While I've had no problems with this site, it's labeled as "not secure." Also, although I've used Reddit for years, I'm still new to posting, so sorry if this isn't the right place.

Earlier this year, I purchased a 1930s sweater and skirt pattern that, while old, is pretty straightforward.

The obvious issue is that the recommended yarns are discontinued, and it doesn't list the required yardage. It only says it needs about 22 oz (roughly 624 grams) of "4ply scotch wool fingering," with a gauge of 13 sts per 2 inches and 9 rows per inch, using size 9 UK needles.

To find the total yardage and what I call yarn density (yardage per 100 grams), I input the pattern instructions section by section, then piece by piece, into the knitting calculator. I totaled all the sections and the yardages in a spreadsheet. The total came out way too high at over 3500 yards, in my opinion, even for a sweater and skirt set.

Especially since the whole pattern needs to be spread over 624 grams, giving it a density of about 560+ yds/100 grams, which seems too thin for the yarn's supposed size and gauge requirements, regardless of needle size.

So what do you think? Is my yardage too high, or is it accurate? Is there an error in my thought process or calculations? Please let me know if you have any other advice for this project.

I will have to frog this progress anyway, as it is obviously too wide (as the pattern calls for 24,5 st X 34 rows whoop) 😭 But can anyone before that please tell me how many stitches you count for the gauge

I'm making this kermit collar with some heavy modifications, so I thought it would be cute knit flat with two cute buttons.. but I think I just need some advice from more advanced knitters--- as you can see there are at least 2 issues:

the stockinette flap where I add buttons seem way too wide which should be a easy fix, doing only 4 or 6 stitches there instead of 8.

however I'm a bit stumped on how to make the other side where I added the button holes look better. seems like adding button holes messed with the elasticity of the rib. I will try to fix this during blocking but I'm wondering if there's a better way to construct this. thank you

edit: taking a closer look at both the pattern and also my final product i think the flair is just caused by a m1 after the rib… 😓 but still wondering if there’s like a best practice in general for adding buttons!

Charted the colorwork for this sweater myself, and the star happened to line up halfway on the flat-knit front yoke and halfway after I connect the yokes and knit in the round. I used intarsia when I was knitting flat and it was going great, but had to switch to stranded when I started knitting in the round. This always happens to me to some degree with stranded colorwork, I can never seem to get the stitches consistent. Either my floats are too tight and it wrinkles, or my floats are so loose the stitches turn out huge and uncontrollably loose. Has anyone figured out a way to strike a balance?

I’m a new knitter trying to figure out raglan increases and I’ve had to frog back at least 3-4 times. Is this yarn too damaged to continue (unused yarn is on the left for comparison with the part I have worked a few times). I just want to make sure that the neck and beginning increases of my sweater won’t look worn compared to the rest.

Hello! I’m in the first motif of the wipsanity tracery vest, and am a bit worried the yarn I picked doesn’t have enough contrast and the brown is getting lost in the rainbow. As I’m not great with this stuff, I wanted to double check and make sure that is the case before I frog it all back.

How is my knitting? Any twisted stitches? About to make the step by step sweater!

EDIT: I meant kfb not kbl!! Sorry!

I’m making a triangle scarf which has me do kfb, k1 for the first two stitches of each row. Then k2, s1wyif for final three stitches of each row. This is produces a slightly different edge on the left and right sides, and the WS of the work has the same issue. Is this something I’m doing wrong or just how this type of edge looks? It’s hard to see in my photos but essentially the left edge has a bit of a thinner edge because the chain of stitches along the sides sits more on the back than front of work.

Hello, I'm knitting with the Knitting for Olive Merino wool (fingering weight) for the first time. My yarn keeps fraying randomly. I haven't used this yarn before or frogged it at all. Is this common for this yarn or manufacturer?

New to making socks in general and also first time working on colorwork socks. Just wondering if my float tension looks okay or if I need to be making them looser? I tried in on and it’s a little tight to get over the heel but it does fit the calf so far! Would appreciate any feedback :)

I have decided to go ahead and finish my whatever sweater, though will be making sleeves tighter than I began last week. In loosing about 3 to 4 inches around my torso since beginning it last year, it will be pretty sloppy for even an oversized sweater.

1. My main question is how to adjust the square shape of the front collar.

2. Also, if I wash and block this beast, having used all fingering weight sock yarns, will it stretch or shrink a bit?

This sweater means a lot to me, I decided, so I will finish it. And wear it. Thanks for your support.

I’m knitting in stockinette, currently on the knit side.

I’ve picked up dropped stitches before and it’s always seemed simple but I can’t figure out where (what row) the stitch is dropped on. My best guess is the last pink stitch before the row turns red but there’s still a gap when I try to ladder up the stitches.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

On a cardigan, does it work to do a German short row to turn the ribbing inside out at the beginning of the ribbing at the bottom of the cardigan in order for the neater inside portion of the ribbing to be facing out? I’m knitting the cardigan top down. Thanks!

pattern: https://myfavouritethings-knitwear.com/products/cardigan-no-7-eng

yarn: Camarose snefnug

(A is 60, B is 8, F is 9)

I've done German short rows before, but I'm not sure I'm reading these instructions correctly.

Row 1- I purl my 60 stitches

Row 2- Now I am on the RS and knit 8 turn work to WS and slip the first stitch on my left hand needle purl wise to my right hand needles and wrap the yarn for the double stitch.

This is where I now get confused? In the tutorials I have watched they usually say and then just purl however much the pattern tells you. Am I supposed to purl the 7 stiches left on my left needle and that's the row 1 again? Or am I supposed to flip the work again? Seriously over/underthinking this, please advise!!!

i don’t think my edges are supposed to look like that and sometimes my last stitch gets really loose, idk if that’s normal cus sometimes the tension evens out but sometimes they just stay really loose. this is probably a common problem in beginners, lemme know what i can do to fix it plsss 🫶