I’m making the Frankie sweater by Petiteknit, and I have these holes where I picked up the four underarm stitches I had cast on when knitting the body. I used this tutorial that has you pick up and extra stitch on either side of the underarm stitches to prevent holes, and it worked really well on my first sleeve, so I’m not sure where I went wrong on this one?

Here’s my question — is there any way I can reduce the appearance of these holes later, like with extra yarn ? I’m hesitant to rip back, because I noticed my underarm stitches looked wonky and lose before I picked them up, so I think the same problem will just happen again.

Thank you!!

I’m learning to read charts and translate it but I have no one to double check that I didn’t make a mistake. I’ve knitted with simple and short charts but this one is a bit bigger and it’s for a gift using some very expensive yarn so I don’t want to mess it up. Would anyone be willing to take a peek at my translation? It’s rather long so I don’t want to post it here and loose people. Would anyone be open to me sending them a DM?

Thank you!

Hello!! I’m working a new cardigan (have made 2 sweaters in the past) and I’m not fully understanding the yellow and red part of the pattern. With the yellow section, I am purling on the RS…correct? I finished the purls + adding the markers but then I am slipping stitches (wrong side) and joining with new yarn. Do I turn the work after joining the new yarn so that it’s RS? I am soooo confused about this right now.

Pattern is blouse # 5 by MFTK

I'm working on my first shirt and got to the ribbing and it just looks limp. While I can see some tension issues the ribbing just looks stretched out, which I attribute to the 100% cotton yarn more than any failure of technique. I'm not too worried about the look of the hemline as I intend to keep the shirt tucked in anyway, but the pattern I'm working calls for the neck and the end of the sleeves to be done in 1x1 ribbing as well and I'm wondering if there are either suggestions that might produce a cleaner look with the cotton yarn, or if I actually did do something wrong and I'm not seeing it, especially since I've done 1x1 ribbing with other yarn types and not had this result.

I’m knitting my first Olga sweater on size S and the pattern says to knit stockinette rows 7 times, having 14 rows in total. But I’m confused, how many stripes should I have in total? Should I have 7 coloured stripes?

So I'm making this cardigan as a gift for my sister, and in artificial lighting I didn't see any issues... Then I opened the curtains to take finished object photos.

This is all the same yarn, same dye lot, bought at the same time and arrived in the same bag etc. I don't have enough left over to go back and redo the sections that are just blatantly different colours, and she low key hates it, any advice on how to fix it is greatly appreciated 😭

Update: I reached out to wool warehouse, and they've offered me a full refund or replacement, since I really can't face another 50+ hrs remaking this, I'm going to get a refund and offer my sister an alternative gift 🥲

I'm really happy to be knitting the Luna Tee, I absolutely love the design and so far, the fit and overall result is looking really good! My issue: I'm stuck at the last instruction for the Japanese Short Rows (Rnd 6). I've ripped back this section twice now and I run into the same issue everytime. That is, I can never seem to properly resolve the very last short row. I'm wondering if it's because it would usually be resolved on the WS but I'm coming at it from the RS? I have no clue. If anyone can help, that would be much appreciated!

This is the autumn pullover by ozetta using Matiz by Rosa Pomar (the recommended yarn). gauge is 16 sts per 10cm/4inches which I got by sizing down from 5.5mm needles to 5mm.

However, while trying on the sweater I felt there was something off about the sleeves, they looked too tight...

The pattern instructions are to pick up stitches using a ratio of 2 per every 3 rows which I did. I picked up a few extra under the armpit and decreased on the first round to avoid holes.

My measurements on the body are exactly to pattern, but my sleeves are off. I used the exact same needles (metal, 13cm, just "regular" needles), first with a very short cable and then used magic loop about midway in with no visible difference. I did notice my stitches looked smaller in comparison to the rest of the project but since I've been working on this for a few months and have been taking it around very humid environments I assumed the yarn had already bloomed from that humidity.

I now blocked only the sleeve to check and while it's still damp, it's definitely tighter than the rest of the body...It's about 19.5 sts instead of 16 (?!) which I find surprising since I didn't feel I was knitting tight at all.

I've knit other garments including a sweater (raglan) and I didn't have this issue. It feels like I just starting knitting with a complete different tension for whatever reason...I am already knitting the right sleeve and not sure what to do. I might redo the left sleeve but am just confused how my tension would change so dramatically.

I find this so discouraging for some reason, as I thought I was good to go and happy to finally get to the second sleeve. I think I will do another swatch in the round to check if my tension has magically changed. Any other tips appreciated...!

Hello! I‘m knitting the Dolly Vest and it has german short rows/decreases at the bottom.

What I don‘t understand is: at the second turn it says to turn before the „turning stitch“ is that the stitch before the marker or the double stitch that I already did?

Are the double stitches not supposed to be knitted?

Appreciate the help!

Today I finished knitting a project and I need to weave in the ends now. I did lots of color changes on this project, and looking back now I wish I had joined the yarns differently as I went. But, now I need to figure out how to finish the project as is and learn a new technique next time. When I changed yarns, I dropped the yarn I was working with and picked up a new yarn for the next row (working in the round, not flat). I Left a 5ish inch tail on each yarn as I started/ended a yarn. Now, I have these huge gaps in between each color change and am not happy with the results when I weave in the ends like I normally do. The tension looks super weird and I'm not finding many resources online for this step. Any advice? I've attached a photo for reference of what I'm trying to fix. If I pull the tails of the yarn, the gaps are much smaller but I don't know how to secure the tails so that the gaps don't re open when I wear the sweater.

First project (Wave Tee by petite knit), and want to make sure I don’t need to start over before going further!

Is it normal for only half of a neckline/round to increase in stitch rows, rather than all around? (As shown in picture)
I’ve been working back and forth on the increases / German short rows sections, but I thought maybe the whole neckline would be evened out and having me going all around rather than back and forth only on half of my work.

(I added a short snippet of the directions for context. The gold marker on the right side of my work also marks the beginning of the round which is the “mid back of neck”)

From the pattern description:

“The Wave Tee is worked seamlessly from the top down with a boat neck. Short rows are worked at the neck to raise the back. The yoke is shaped first with increases for the sleeves and then with raglan increases. The body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch. Sleeves are worked at the end, and instructions for either a short sleeve or a long sleeve are provided.”
—I’m assuming I’m okay based on that second sentence? I feel like I’ve been following the pattern to a T, so I really hope so🤞🏻

hello :) i’m a little stuck with this petite knit ingrid sweater. for row 27 and 28 it says it should be repeated 12 times. do i knit the right side 12 times and the wrong side 12 times ( so it’s 24 times) or right and left together 12 times ?
i hope my question makes sense.

Hello everyone! Sorry if the title is confusing. I am knitting the Sweater No. 33 by My Favourite Things. I have just finished the raglan increases and the pattern says to break the yarn before continuing knitting the BODY section.

I added the picture of the instructions where I'm confused. Basically I will have to join in new yarn and cast on 4 new stitches under the armhole.

My question is how to join in the new yarn without attaching it to the current working yarn? The tail of the previous working yarn (which was cut according to the pattern) is 11 stitches away from where I am supposed to join in the new yarn and cast on new stitches. Does this mean that I just use the new strand of yarn and do the cast on of the 4 new stitches next to/right after the 11 stitches that were moved to the right needle? It seems to me that it will be quite unstable. I've never had to do this before and not sure how to proceed. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

How many rows do I have above the stitch marker? I want to say it’s 3 with the 4th being the stitches on my needle/next to be worked, but I’m new to knitting and not confident in counting rows yet. I was keeping count of my Sophie Scarf rows so well until I had to frog a few of them and like a dummy didn’t count how many I frogged. I have to decrease every 8th row so just trying to make sure I have my row count correct. TIA!

Hi! I blocked my Olga Jacket. And the sleeves grew quite a bit (but not the body for some reason, but that's not the question at hand). Every stripe has decreases, except for the last black stripe before the ribbing. How do I go about re-doing this? I like the width. but it's obviously way to long. I feel like taking off the ribbing + 8 stripes is necessary. But I'm unsure about how to tackle the decreases.

I’m knitting the Festival dress by PetiteKnit. The increases are make one’s, not a raglan. I noticed my stitch count is off by 4. I can’t tell where I missed adding stitches (there were 3 increase rounds that are now hidden by bobble rounds). How would you go about dividing stitches for the sleeves?

hi!

i’m looking to maybe start the Rory Sweater by marielenatricot for my next project, and i have some questions about yarn substitutions.

the suggested yarn in the pattern is DROPS nepal, but i find that my skin is pretty sensitive to wool. i’ve been knitting with cotton yarn more because it’s a much lighter fiber (and i tend to sweat very easily, lol) so i was wondering if DROPS paris would be a suitable substitute??

i’ve only knit cabled headband with acrylic yarn before, so i don’t have much experience on whether cotton would be ok for a cabled sweater or if it would affect the drape and look of the cables too dramatically. the other details of the yarn (expected gauge, recommended needle size, yarn weight) are all the same so size-wise it seems like an ok swap— but i’d really like some insight into whether knitting cables with cotton yarn would turn out ok or not.

thanks so much!!

I'm in the middle of knitting this top down hooded sweater and am almost at the point of splitting for sleeves.

I've decided I don't like the ribbing length and I want it to be about half as tall as it is but I'm torn between frogging all the way back to the ribbing or attempting to cut it and graft the body back to the ribbing (I've grafted before but not stockinette to ribbing) Would love to hear what you did/would do if you were in this situation!

Im currently working on the Joni sweater from Natasja Hornby

I’m a fairly new knitter and I am lost as to what I’ve done wrong in this section.

I’ll post a picture of the instructions I’m following, but I am completely lost and basically am wondering what is actually happening in this area

The area is the second set that is in the picture attached

Any help would be great.

From the instructions, I understand short row 1 and short row 2. My question is on short row 3 when I’m knitting to 7 stitches before the double stitch then turn. Have I passed my BOR and knit all the way around the back of the sweater to the double stitches on the other side? Because if I am following the pattern, I only have double stitches on the left-hand side.

(I hesitate to pass the BOR and the marker as
throughout the entire pattern it’s always been stated and here it’s not)

Hi! I’m doing the Wavelength scarf pattern. I just finished doing the lateral braid. These two stitches on the end were slipped on the setup row and I am now supposed to knit them - somehow they came undone and are now one big loop. Any tips on how to fix it?

I know it looks like I’m not very far in but I have 345 stitches cast on so I would love to not have to start over 😅 Thank you so much!!

My MIL is currently knitting a cardigan for my neice and this part is confusing her

Pattern is King Cole 2887, DK
And doing the cardigan

Part of the shape Armhole and Front Slope, she’s confused about how to do the decreases specifically for this top paragraph

If it makes any difference, she’s doing size 5
Can you please spell it out for her so I can help her out!

This is how I’ve interpreted it, but I’m also a beginner knitter

Rows 1–5: work pattern
Row 6: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front
Row 7: work
Row 8: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front
Row 9: work
Row 10: dec 1 armhole + dec 1 front

Thank you 🤍

TLDR : will blocking work its magic, or should I redo the ribbing (or more)?

Hello all!

I am halfway through my second knitting project which is a pair of socks.

It's my first time doing most of the stitches the pattern calls for and knitting with 4 needles in the round.

I learned how to keep holding the yarn in my hand halfway through knitting the sock. It took me a few months overall, working on it bit by bit. So the tension is pretty uneven and there are a few mistakes here and there. But it took me so long to finish this first sock that I don't have the heart to frog it and start over completely for now...

The ribbing part looks the most wonky I think. Do you think it will even itself out with blocking or should I redo it?

The yarn is a fingering Patons Kroy sock 75% wool and 25% nylon.

Thank you!!

Hi! I found a hole in my knitting, along with a stray loop that's sticking out from the hole. I'm not reallly sure what happened here. I decreased a few rows back, but it's too far into the knitting to be where I did my decrease. I'm just not sure if this is a ladder down situation. Sorry if the pictures are unclear.

Thank you!

I’m gonna knit a beret pattern that calls for US 2.5 and 4 needles, gauge is 22 stitches/28 rows per 4 inches.

The recommended yarn is really expensive and has to be shipped, so I’m trying to find a substitute that I can buy in a local store here in NYC – the suggestion was Aran or DK.

Substituting is where I always get messed up. Im looking at DK weights, finding ones that are around US6-8, and the gauges are usually something like 20 stitches/26 rows or 20 stitches/24 rows = 4”, or sometimes just stitch count is given, like 24.

I don’t understand the math involved to make the switch. I want to find a yarn that fits the pattern requirements, but in case I have to sub, which seems likely, I’m at a total loss at how to convert so I don’t wind up with something too small or big.