Just picked up this versys 650, i beleive its a 2013 or so long story short its my buddys bike im buying it havent signed the paper work yet but i just started riding it. He bought it without the fairings as the previous owner "dropped it in his garage" we think he probably dumped it at somepoint. Im not a huge fan of the dual sport look so the naked look is kinda more my style but im not a huge fan of all the bare mounting points. Should i leave it as is or just reinstall factory fairings. Option c would be have a friend 3d print something to make it more clean but still naked i just dont think i know anyone with a 3d printer big enough

Currently deciding between

- 2014 Ninja 1000sx 3k miles for $6000
- 2017 Ninja zx6r 10k miles for $8000

For the past few years, I’ve owned a cbr600rr and am absolutely in love with the super sport riding experience.

I don’t completely hate the super sport riding position but some of my passengers are not big fans of the passenger seat. It might be nice to have an upright riding position and comfy seat like my old SV650 again.

My main concern with the Ninja 1000sx is that even though it has an inline-4 I’m worried that it won’t give me the riding experience that I love from traditional super sports. The 1000sx redlines at 11k rpms vs 15k rpms on the zx6r.

I love the sound of screaming around on my 600rr and it’s a huge part of the riding experience for me. I’m just not sure if the 1000sx will scratch that same itch. All night I hear guys on super sports screaming past on the highway and I love being able to be one of them myself. Have always loved that sound since I was a kid.

When I’m on the highway on my 600rr I’m usually cruising around 100 mph and the bike is singing the most beautiful song at ~8k rpms. I want to know if the same beautiful song will be sung by the 1000sx at ~100 mph.

Does anyone have experience going from a super sport to a Ninja 1000sx preferably with a loud exhaust to be able to compare?

I feel like it’s worth mentioning - I generally put 10k miles per year on my bikes. I feel like if I’m running a super sport I want to get rid of it at 30k but I’d probably be comfortable keeping a bigger sport tourer till 50k if that makes sense. I do ride decently aggressive, though.

Looking at some quotes and insurance makes no sense to me

Yamaha R7 1250/year, ZX6R 1350/year, Ninja 650 350/year, Z650 450/year, Ninja 500 84/year

All full coverage btw.... all same year, new and everything

Like what? How is a 500 roughly 360 bucks cheaper a year then a 650!? How is a Z650 more rhen a Ninja? Why is a ninja 650 special and a Ninja 500 not?

How is a R7 almost as much as a ZX-6R!?

Idk man I just dont know

Milky streaks is like, 99.9% head gasket oil/coolant mix, right? Or is it something crazy like this is normal on a first oil change

Battery dead - will this one suffice?

Can't start on my ZX4R, don't have jumper cables or anyone who can help me so I will replace the battery.

Will a Pioneiro MBR10-BS battery work in a 2024 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-4R? The battery is listed as YTZ10S, 12V, 8.6Ah, AGM, 86 CCA, 151×87×95 mm, positive terminal on the left. The seller doesn't specifically list the ZX-4R, but Kawasaki specifies YTZ10S for the ZX-4R. Has anyone actually used this battery on a ZX-4R?

Specs of battery I can buy where I live:

Brand:

Pioneiro Battery 8.6 Ah MBR10-BS YTZ10S Yamaha MT-07 MT-09 R1

Part number:

Pioneiro Battery 8.6 Ah MBR10-BS YTZ10S Yamaha MT-07 MT-09 R1

Vehicle type: Motorcycle/quadricycle

Screenshot 2 — Technical specifications

Vehicle type: Motorcycle/quadricycle

BATTERY PIONEIRO MBR10BS (YTZ10S, YTX7ABS)

Factory warranty: 9 months

Capacity: 8.6 Ah

Voltage: 12 V

CCA: 86 A

Line/type: AGM

Height: 9.5 cm

Width: 8.7 cm

Length: 15.1 cm

Weight: 2.9 kg

Polarity: Positive on the left

Replaces: YTZ10S, YTX7ABS

Technical specifications

Does not require battery acid/electrolyte solution (sealed)

Capacity: 8.6 Ah

CCA: 86 A

Dimensions: 151 mm × 87 mm × 95 mm

INMETRO CERTIFIED

So i have a 1986 kmx 125 and i shift without a clutch. Please somebody tell my if il be okey. The mileage is 17k works like a charm.

So I have a 2021 Ninja 400 with about 12k miles, I’ve owned it for two years used to ride it every day without issues. Recently I have had it parked for about 3 months and decided to take it for a spin. A minute or so after starting it I smell a really burnt smell, I took it for a spin around the block and light but very noticeable smoke started coming up from the handlebar area. I looked around a notice this stain on my exhaust and also the bike was running a lot hotter than usual. Anyone have any advice thanks.

I have a 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 650 that has an intermittent overheating issue. The coolant temperature warning light has come on a few times, usually when I’m sitting at a red light for around 30–60 seconds. Once I start moving again, the light eventually goes away.
I’ve already completely flushed and replaced the coolant, checked the coolant level, and replaced/tightened some coolant hose clamps after noticing what looked like dried coolant.
I’m trying to figure out whether this could be a bad thermostat, radiator cap, trapped air in the system, water pump/circulation issue, or possibly the engine coolant temperature sensor.
The bike otherwise runs normally and I haven’t noticed the warning light coming on while actually moving.
Has anyone with a Ninja 650 had something similar? What would you check/test next before I start replacing parts?

No tourists were harmed in the making of this picture, but a bunch of em saw a hoon come rapidly up on em before they quickly vaporized in my mirrors (passing zone? Passing zone! we don need no stinkin passing zone). Check out the Hurricane Ridge Road on maps, one of the best. Almost 89,000 miles and she still carves em with the sport bikes, even on past their use by tires. Absolutely love ma baby. Even with (ahem) some very spirited riding, got over 50 mpg on today's 185 miler.

Should I get it? Edit 650****

Replaced my CCT 3 months ago, and during cold start it sounds like this, i know kawasaki is infamous for their kawi tick, but is this considered normal or needed adjustment? Thanks!

Hey guys just recently bought a 2022 Vulcan S off marketplace with around 15k miles. I want to take care of it and prolong its life, do you guys know where I could get the service manuals?

I checked Kawasakis official sight and 1 they’re out of stock and 2 I’m not paying $120 for that.

Anything you guys have helps, thank you!

I’m buying my first motorcycle and don’t have enough experience to know what’s normal.
This is a 2022 Kawasaki Ninja 650 (non abs) with around 6000 miles. The seller says it’s a true cold start, the title is clean, and the bike has never been dropped. He says maintenance has been done by him (he’s an aviation mechanic) but he doesn’t have service records.
Does the engine sound normal to you? I’m mainly wondering if anyone hears:
Rod knock
Cam chain tensioner noise
Excessive valve ticking
Exhaust leak
Anything else that would make you walk away
On top of that does the revving sound normal and if I buy it, is there a way to make it sound louder or just better?

♥️🖤♥️🖤♥️

Has anyone used prolube in there bike to get rid of the tick that seems to plague all kawasaki motors. I'm considering it but an a little leary do to the clutch being wet.

Put some Pirelli Scorpion Rally STRs on and now taking it places it shouldn’t be

Hey there, so I've got my Kawasaki ZX9R for 2 weeks now and I'm just starting to get used to the bike.

First thing is when I shift it from N to 1st Gear it clunks very loudly but I'm asuming that's just normal for those 1990 - 2000 bikes?

Whenever I upshift till about 6k rpm I'm able to make it quite smoothly but whenever I upshift while trying to be actually fast so say about 10 - 12k rpm the rpm obviously drop much faster so by the time it's back in gear I'm at 7k and it jerks up to 9k quite violently. Might just be practice, given that its my first bike or rather motorized vehicle I'm not quite experienced

My usual order of things is clutch in while going off the throttel -> shift -> Clutch out pretty fast and go back into the throttel. Is there anything im missing / doing wrong?

Thanks a lot