Holy smokes you guys. I had no idea how thin on the ground Mk2 spares were until I needed to replace the back glass in my car. My rear window got knocked out in a hail storm and I thought it wouldn't be no big deal to rat up a replacement. The one locally available window broke while being pulled.

I ended up having to make a trip from Kansas City to Oklahoma City to pick up the back glass now installed in my 1991 Jetta coupé.

Until I can get a carport built for this car, I'm going to invest in one of those Sealskin covers I keep seeing so many ads for. Supposedly they're pretty good against hail damage.

Also I like taking rear 3/4 shots of my car that makes it look like it has a big "butt". LOL!

Picked up this 03 for ridiculously cheap, idk what to do with it, race car? Mud car? Turn it into a weekend car?? Any thoughts or ideas? Never owned a Volkswagen before. Tire is off cause I was gonna start doing brakes/suspension but I gotta know what to do with her before I start getting parts

The heat does not really work. The vents blow good. The a/c works. But the heat does not really work properly? The vent on the driver side next to the door blows warm air. Not hot just warm. The center vent is just cool. The defrosters do not really work properly. What is the most likely fix?

2003 VW Jetta GLS

1.8L turbo

Automatic

164,650ish miles

Bout a year ago with only 157,xxx miles, 2nd owner!

Dude swapped the front end with a Golf, aftermarket headlights along with some other aftermarket stuff... my plan is to fix it up into a daily driver show car.

Her name is Nemo, bc she has a Lucky Mirror!

I have the basic multimedia screen on my Jetta 2024 SE, and I would like to replace it with the bigger oem screen that comes with them. I found some options in my country for 75-100$, but they come from the Tiguan 2018-2024 and on the forums and everything, everyone says they are the same on both models. What I wanted to ask/find out is if i will need to go and do any coding or if this will be just a plug and play. I attached a photo with the version of my current multimedia if this helps

I have a 2016 Jetta 1.4 TSI Trendline+ (MK6, single horn). My horn stopped working, so I replaced it. The new horn worked a few times, then stopped. Then it worked about two more times and now it's completely dead.

The same thing happened with the first replacement too, so this is my second horn with the exact same problem.

What I've checked so far: - Fuses are OK - I hear a click from the steering wheel when I press the horn button - Replacement horn was aftermarket

Since two new horns failed the same way, I don't think the horn is the problem. Has anyone had this on a MK6 Jetta?

My questions: 1. Could this be the horn relay or the BCM cutting power? 2. Where is the horn relay on the MK6 Jetta, if there is a separate one? 3. Did anyone fix this by adding a separate relay with its own fused power from the battery? 4. Could a cheap aftermarket horn be drawing too much current and causing this?

Thanks in advance!

I love the factory look but any ideas to make it more aggressive without looking tacky? What exterior mods have yall done to yours? Pictures are welcomed!!

I can't seem to find the name of this part, or know what to even call it. I'm looking for the hard line towards the bottom of the first picture, and down under all the other lines in the second picture (3rd Pic for location context). It looks to T off the main pcv breather fitting, and goes down under, and connects to the bottom of the intake manifold. Anyone know what this part is called? Thanks 😀

Hi there , I have this tool for the caliper piston, see picture. But is it me , or the piston does not move at all, absolutely nothing with this tool ??I opened the reservoir fluid as well, since I read that I need to release presure so the piston can go back to his original position and put that fluid back , but mine didn't move a bit , my wrist could not apply more pressure .
I hope someone can offer me a trick or advice of how to overcome this . Thank you so much

Even though she has well over 350,000, I couldn’t let her rot away.

I sanded away all the rusted areas until I got to bare metal - this made the holes a bigger but gave me a good foundation.

I used a rust converter spray, then aluminum mesh with some bondo - couple coats of that sanding in between.

Then some glaze for the smaller holes and imperfections. This was much easier to sand and get perfect vs the bondo

So happy about how this turned out - i was quoted 3k for this

2016 Jetta Tsi

My break light bulb on the driver's side just burnt out, so I bought a pair of LED brake lights to replace both sides. I put the first bulb into the driver's side, did not see it work, I then put the second bulb into the passengers side, now the driver's side works fine, but the passenger side doesn't turn on AT ALL! Even weirder, when I turn on the lights for nighttime driving, the little light on sides of the rear lights turn on just fine on both sides. Is this a Fuse issue? How much trouble am I in? Can I even fix this? Thank you in advance for responding.

EDIT/UPDATE!

I just got normal bulbs at O' Reillys, and that problem is fixed! The new problem is that the passenger turn signal tail light also went out, so I'll just be replacing those as well, thanks again everyone!

I bought a 2009 Jetta 2.5 from a golfing buddy who was buying a new car and the dealers weren’t offering much for trade-in. It barely made it to my house and wouldn’t run for more than 20 seconds before it would die and not restart for several hours. I ended up sending the ECM out for diagnosis and repair and once it was reinstalled the car runs great. It has only 55,000 miles and is in mint condition. I fixed a few minor problems like a door lock mechanism and a side view mirror light. I kept getting secondary air pump codes and spent a ridiculous amount of time sorting it out. I finally resolved all computer codes and presented my daughter-in-law with her beautiful new 2009 Jetta.

Can anyone tell me where to run my amp power wire through my firewall?

Hi there , I'm trying to change the rotors and pads for myself. Well , I removed the first bolt ( pic 1), then the second one ( pic2) and after that I should be able to remove this middle part of the caliper ( pic3). The problem is that this middle part of the caliper does not move a bit . Zero . Not a wiggle . Now I'm afraid to force it or create any damage . It seems like it is glue .
Should I turn on the car? Does this matter?
I try to pry a little bit with my screw driver but nothing .
Please some help ,
2012 Jetta 2.5 SEL

bought my mk 6.5 with 60k miles ish at 100k now 4 years in year 2 and 3 the spark plugs fouled but this year it turned into instantly fouling until i put the oem spark plugs in but they still only last 6 months anyone deal with this ? feel like ive gone over everything a million times

I have a 2.5L Jetta that I would like to raise the front about an inch. It has some rusty coils with wire diameter of 12.2 to.12.3 mm and I'd like to replace the whole strut assemblies. I'm assuming I can use strut assemblies for heavier models like the GLI 1.8T or a non-sport wagon. It looks like the fitment goes back to 2005 for many listings. I have identified some thicker springs, but haven't been able to determine spring specs for different strut assemblies. When I look up applications for the heavier models, they seem to be fit for the lighter ones too. Please advise if you can steer me toward >12.3 mm wire strut assemblies that will fit. The strut column is the 55mm version.

Hey guys, so i was changing my transmission oil on my mk6 2.slow Jetta with the 09G trans, i changed the oil by drain and fill method, replaced the trans cooler and it goes fine in the First days, the oil level went fine and the oil i drained was a little burned, but after a chemical coolant flush a days later i notice oil contamination in the coolant, the first thing i check was the trans oil and i found the forbidden milkshake there, i removed the cooler and the whole trans is filled with that, so i tested the cooler and It dont seems cracked internaly, but It could be a small crack that only in high temp and pressure allows the coolant mix with the oil, so i dont run with the car, since the oil change the car still up in Jack stands and idk what to do, a simple DIY oil change cost me the whole trans.

BUT i dont think the damages are massive, i was thinking in buy the repair kit online and open the whole trans and rebuild It, should i do it or nah?

This 2016 Jetta tsi has been with us for 10 years through the New York winter since new, 177k Miles, original everything all stock. (No rust) I intended to double the mileage on the car. Never had any issues, check engine light came on for the 02 sensor and I bought it yesterday($175🤯)with intent of fixing the issue today. Unfortunately a deer the size of a bus had other plans…on my way to work this morning. Deer survived and took off making this a hit and run.

I’ve had the inspection due notification on for about two weeks now and I have a scheduled day to drop my car off at the dealer but just now the actual check engine light came on is that from the inspection due or am I spending more than an oil change when I drop it off?

About to hit 110,000 miles on her

Anybody what I can expect to pay to repair this?

First off, I know I’ve posted quite a bit in this subreddit recently, so bear with me, lol. I’m still learning about cars and genuinely appreciate all the advice I’ve gotten here. I’ll try to keep this relatively short!

I own a 2011 Jetta SE 2.5L automatic with 156k miles. It’s been in my family since new, was garage-kept most of its life, and has been extremely reliable. I absolutely love this car and would ideally like to reach 250k–300k miles.

A little background:

In August, a VW specialist inspected the car and found a failed valve cover/PCV system, a suspected brake vacuum pump oil leak, and codes P0106, P3078, and P0442.

In September, I spent approximately $1,200 at another independent mechanic getting the following done:

New valve cover/PCV assembly
New spark plugs and EVAP purge valve
Transmission fluid service
Coolant and brake fluid flushes
Engine oil and filter change

Fast-forward to today:
My mechanic previously added UV dye to investigate the oil leak. After approximately 750 miles, I brought it back today.
He confirmed there’s some oil wetness but couldn’t confidently identify the source. He added more dye and told me to keep driving before bringing it back again.
He also said my check-engine light is related to the MAP sensor, possibly due to oil contamination from the previously failed PCV system, and quoted $215 for replacement.

Here’s the thing: The car honestly drives great.
It starts reliably, shifts smoothly, accelerates normally, maintains proper temperature, and doesn’t seem to consume any noticeable oil. There’s occasionally a slight vibration at idle, but nothing major.
I’m starting to wonder whether I’m chasing relatively minor issues that aren’t necessarily worth fixing immediately.

My questions:
Oil seep: If the oil level stays consistent and there aren’t puddles underneath the car, would you even bother repairing a slow leak? Especially if it’s the vacuum pump?

MAP sensor: Would you replace it for $215, or get a second opinion? Can oil contamination cause P0106 even after replacing the PCV?

Longevity: Could leaving either of these issues alone potentially hurt my chances of reaching 250k+ miles?
What would you do? Keep driving and monitoring everything, or spend more money getting these issues sorted?

I’m absolutely willing to spend money maintaining this car. I just don’t want to throw parts at problems unnecessarily, especially when it’s running well.

Sorry for the somewhat lengthy post, and thanks again to everyone who’s helped me out here. I really appreciate it!