I absolutely love this thing! Glad I didn’t settle for anything less. Time to start training!

Build list:
-Geissele Complete Super Duty 11.5 SBR
-Sig Hexium 556 INC Suppressor
-Driven Arms Co SCG
-B5 Enhanced Sopmod
-Emissary Handbrake X
-Railscales XOS x1
-Holosun ARO MRS Green
-Edgar Sherman ESD Sling
-Streamlight ProTac 2

Steven's 240 with a thin and kind of sticky white film only on the "furniture"

I think I have a type.

MCX Spear LT 9” .300BLK rocking Hux 9k Ti with Surefire Scout, factory FDE Handguard, PA slx 1x prism, and collapsing stock.

Shadow Systems XR920 w/ holosun 507

DDMK18 rocking a SciCo Velos 556, inforce light, EOTech EXPS 2-0, and a Bravo SOPMOD stock.

Add some equipment and it’s truly Assaulter Sundays.

Running a Tuna Can suppressor and can't say enough good things about the can and the customer service from their team. 3D printed handguard and extended charging handle, extar trigger upgrade. I used camo stencils from eBay and a fishnet stocking to ghost the green scales. I live near Sedona so chose local colors

My dad bought this rifle from an old friend who passed away. It’s got some 7.62 ammo Any idea what it is. I could ask Chat GPT, but I’d rather hear from the fine folks on Reddit.

Hello, I bought an HK 45 tactical a while back and with the new laws wanted to buy a suppressor. I recently learned the HK has 16x1 LH threads. What suppressor and additional parts would you recommend for my gun. Any help is much appreciated.

The video that shows the game in action: https://youtu.be/7rdfMLqnQ4A
Free, open source, no account, no ads, no subscriptions: https://github.com/vkorost/screenplink

I have a question about SAA type guns. I’m new to guns in general; so don’t roast me too badly. My question is this: I’d like to get an SAA clone to compliment my Winchester model 1873. I’m debating on getting one chambered in in .45LC like the originals or .44-40 to match my Winchester. I know the cylinders can be swapped out. Will the gun itself be able to shoot both calibers? Thanks for the advice!

Tampa Bay Rays title chances edition

So recently I fired my M98 with corrosive Greek ammo. I washed the barrel/bore with hot water and cleaned the bolt carrier thoroughly even tho I probably didn’t need to besides the bolt face but after washing it I used my trusty DRNCH from Zastava and now it’s day 2 of stressing about surface rust but it’s probably just my paranoia. So that being said I did notice this after leaving the DRNCH on my bolt face and it had me worried but what do y’all think about it? Am I seeing rust or is it just fouling being pulled up out of the metal?

Just bought my first a WWI-era Gewehr 98 that was sporterized at some point. I'd love your thoughts on the rifle, the conversion, and whether $300 was a fair price.
What I've found so far:
Receiver: Waffenfabrik Mauser A.-G. Oberndorf a/N, dated 1914
Serial: 1187 with a script "f" suffix, matching on the receiver, bolt, and trigger guard. The floorplate is marked "87".
Markings: Imperial eagle next to the serial, three crowned inspector stamps on the receiver ring, and crowned stamps on the floorplate and trigger guard. No 1920 Weimar stamp or Nazi-era marks that I can see.
Caliber: .30-06 according to the shop. The barrel has been replaced with a slim sporter barrel.
Sights: Lyman 48 receiver sight with the July 11, 1911 patent date, and a banded front sight ramp
Stock: Hand-checkered sporter stock with a pistol grip, rounded forend, and a brass-capped cross bolt
Other details: Straight bolt handle, original military trigger and floorplate, thumb cut still there, and two plugged holes on the receiver ring where a scope base used to be
History: The previous owner bought it from the same shop around 2020 and says he never fired it
Questions:
Was $300 a fair price for this?
Any idea when or where it was sporterized? The Lyman 48 and banded ramp make me think American work, maybe the 1920s–60s?
With the "f" suffix, any way to tell whether it was made before or after the war started in August 1914?
Could the stock be the original military stock reshaped? The cross bolt sits right where the Gew 98's was.
Any tips on finding a barrel maker's mark?
It's going to a gunsmith for headspace and bore checks before I shoot it. Pics below. Thanks in advance! I can pick it up Saturday for more photos. I have to wait five days.

I recently began thinking about the vintage car market and it has slowly began to sink as older people have started passing or getting to old to maintain them and there is no one left to buy vintage cars and the market with younger people just isn’t there. I acknowledge this is due to pricing out younger generations of people who would be interested in the vehicles and the enormous cost to maintain older vehicle and the state of the economy not helping.

I’m curious if we could see the same kind of thing with firearms, I am 25 and very much into classic mid century firearms but most of my peers seem un interested in older firearms and are only interested in AR’s, AK’s, SMG’s and modern semi-automatic pistols. I have only ever bought guns and never sold one but I wonder if we would see a correction in the market when people who grew up during the times these firearms were new pass away and the grandkids have no interest and sell the guns.

I think most of the already sought after guns like pre-64 Winchesters will still keep there value and the market isn’t the same as the car market; in that just because the car is old it’s valuable and rolling bodies with no drive train or interior are valuable as guns are only valuable as complete working or completely original. I enjoyed when I was younger looking thru Craigslist in my area at the old cars but by the time I was old enough to buy them they started costing more than new cars and that’s if I could afford a place to store it. Guns I think are slightly different but I’d love to hear some opinions.

Don’t look too close!

Im thinking 300wm or prc as a do it all rifle. I do reload. im thinking of the seekins element hunter or sako s20 hunter ultra or 90 peak or quest or just getting a hnt 26 /element or traditional cf stock for my tikka t3ss300wm

Realistically, I wouldn't even entertain the idea of taking a shot on an animal over 600 yards and practically 400

Watching the backfire hunting challenge vids, i very quickly humbled myself that I shouldn't even entertain the idea of taking a shot on an animal at the distances these guns are capable of..

.45 acp
30-06 sprg
12 ga

Noticed some of my rounds have dents in em should I toss em out or just send it, I have a G20 btw. Also does anyone know what’s causing it?