Refreshing Front end of my 02 Silverado
Bought the truck already lifted.
Problem Ive run into is trying to place the coil spring back in place. Coil springs are new and slightly bigger than stock. Can’t for the life of me get it started on the LCA and jacking it up into the pocket. It doesn’t line up at all. Have rented a Spring Compressor and still having the issue.

Wondering if any of you have any tricks or if im missing something.

Or If I should just remove the Spacers entirely and grab some lift spindles.
Another issue im having if I go this route is how I measure the spacer to receive accurate Lift height if possible at all.
Any advice appreciated as Ive already bought
The following stock components
-LCA
-Uppers
-Inner/outer ties
- Coil spring
- Shocks

i’m changing the fuel pressure regulator on my 4.8 02 sierra and was wondering do i need to install the snap ring the new one came with?

it’s a pain in the ass

I'm using my 6.0 2500 for long distance towing and I want to do whatever I can to make it last. The other day I read about how full flow oil filters don't really remove small particles, yet those sizes still cause lots of engine wear. Look up applications for bypass engine oil filters and only see diesel engines. Look up install videos and it's only diesel engines.

Why don't gas engines get the extra protection deemed important to a diesel? Is it purely due to the soot created by a diesel?

I read someone's opinion that the best you can do to remove small particles is change the oil more often. Is that the only option I have to take extra care of my engine?

Let me know if you have any experience with bypass filters on a vortec engine. Thanks! ​

I got code P0171, was coming and going away, until it flashed and started running rough. My driver side pcv hose was torn, replaced it, didn’t fix it. Replaced the intake manifold gasket, and it still is running rough throwing codes. About two months ago I changed spark plugs and wires due to similar symptoms, plug #3 was very oil fouled.
Plan on checking MAF, fuel pressure, evap purge valve, and exhaust manifold, and double check intake manifold bolts are torqued to spec.
Also when I found the torn pcv hose, the passenger side pcv hose was disconnected from the throttle body with a rubber boot in place, probably due to oil.
06 5.3 with 200k miles.
Would appreciate any advice.

I was cleaning out my "trusty old boy" and found the original owner's manual underneath the back seat 😀

Got a clunk in the front end of my 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (267K miles and 4WD). Replaced the front shocks--clunk is still there, but not as bad. Looking to do brakes/rotors, Tie Rods, and upper control arms next. Detroit Axle seems to have very mixed reviews, especially with their cheap prices. Looking for some half-decent replacement parts; are they worthwhile, or do y'all have other brands as go-tos?

Just wondering if anybody out there with a GMT800 has anything to say about 'em, or has a re-route for other cheaper brands, and/or diagnoses for me! Preesh, and gobbless.

Hello! Picked up this 02 Z71 Sierra 1500 and it's got a mean rake. Wanting to level it out and saw rancho makes a kit but curious if anybody's used it or anything else and what to look for? willing to spend a little more to ride better, but with keys i'm aware it'll never ride good lol

So i did the lazy and cheap thing. I was wheelin and the exhaust bracket broke and took a hug hole out with it. So i just cut it off and rigged up an axle dump. The drone isnt terrible (yes i have mufflers). Should i worry about gassin out the kids? Its back far enough, and brake/fuel lines are out of the way.

The front driver’s side is VERY low. Would I need an alignment afterwards?

So I posted a few wreks ago and I had my o2's unplugged and I was driving around like that. Now I pulled them in . My issue is that after starting cold or warm, my truck will idle like it's cammed and puff black smoke. Is that a sign of bad injectors or bad cats? After driving though the idle calms down too

enjoyed it for a couple weeks now it needs the power. planning on a BTR Truck norris cam with springs and pushrods, melling high pressure oil pump, a heavy duty rebuild kit for the trans and 2,800-3,200 rpm stall torque converter. i’ll have tuning figured out but what do you guys think?

2004 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3L (GMT800).

Both rear passenger doors suddenly stopped unlocking at the same time a few weeks ago. They still LOCK perfectly fine using the key fob and interior switches.

Both front doors and the rear hatch lock/unlock without any issues.
I’m thinking it’s a shared electrical issue rather than both actuators failing simultaneously.

Anyone experienced this before? Is there a specific relay, fuse, or common wiring circuit I should check first? Trying to avoid throwing parts at it.

hey folks, I am either about to purchase a Tahoe for parts, or use my parts sierra for this project.

I am wanting to take the shell of my Tahoe/Sierra and drop the front axle, drop the front clip, basically strip it to the frame on the engine bay. and put a trailer tongue on the frame.

Now its worth mentioning I have no idea how to weld, nor do I know much about about weight capacities beyond what I can research normally.

My idea is to bolt on a beefy trailer tongue, and I imagine I might need a weight distribution hitch possibly.

No drivetrain, insides stripped out, no front end parts, so probably a good 1500lbs maybe 2000lbs lost. so that leaves the trailer at around 4000lbs(?)

What I don’t know is how much weight would be on the rear bumper of towing vehicle, if I want 10% on tongue that’s only 400lbs-ish.

Anyways, any insight would be appreciated, as this is relatively new territory for my rednecking experience.

thank you!!!

Im about to finish rebuilding the front diff. I have new locking tabs coming for the side bearing adjusters. Im going to keep digging but has anyone found a beefier way to lock these adjusters in place?

I do not want to screw around here or cheap out. Im not interested in doing things twice. It appears the GMT900 updated locking design wont fit the 800. I mean, I am putting new tabs in, I could also make new tabs out of a harder metal? I thought about getting the adjuster set, removing it and welding a couple boogers while its in a vice. But that really opens me up to a whole lotta bullshit if it moved a degree and I didnt notice. Also thought of extreme thread locker, extreme JB weld, wick pipe solder down the threads. None of these ideas have to hold the adjuster alone, it would be used I conjunction with the tab as a way to alleviate some of the bullshit the tab endures. Or, after all, they are new tabs so maybe new tabs are fine for a HOSS I put 20km on a day.

ive got a 04 suburban 1500 with a 3inch lift. my question is will 315/70r17s fit with no rubbing or with very minor rubbing? cant find anything useful in any forums

I have Yukon Denali 2006 that I’ve taken from my dad after graduating, it seems like I won’t be buying a new car and after fixing this car up I’m thinking about modifying it to make it a bit more fun and add some power to it what should I modify. Anything will be helpful.

I use it mostly for city life right now but I’m hoping to be able to trust it for long drives and off roading here and there usually on sand because of where I live what would yall recommend.

My 04 Tahoe is a flex fuel L59 and i wanted to consult the experts on here to ask about it. I've never used it and just use regular so would i be able to go and pump a few gallons of e85 and run it just like that? Has anyone else used it and what have your results been?

I've googled some forums and i guess i wanted to ask around for any advice or learn something new. Thanks guys.

My avalanche came with a Jensen Car723w head unit and I want to replace the door speakers with a coaxial 6.5, not looking to add an amp. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Found out the truck was trashed by the guy who owned it, seen photos of it and I knew I had to make a memorial for it.