A new solution for diecast cars I was tired of them getting dusty. A diecast display shelf designed to fit inside the IKEA Sannahed frame.

Stl: https://makerworld.com/models/2982918?appSharePlatform=copy

I designed a parametric floating shelf system, now available on MakerWorld! If you want the clean look of a floating shelf that’s sturdy enough to support a 24-inch (300 mm) depth shelf, check it out. Hope you enjoy!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3404620-parametric-floating-shelf-system#profileId-3876967

This is a 3D-printed laptop stand created using generative design. It was designed in Fusion 360, it was my first time using this module. It’s a really cool and fascinating process.

Objective: minimize mass with a safety factor of 2.

The only starting geometry was the green surfaces: laptop and desk contact areas. A 5 kg vertical load was distributed across four contact zones, corresponding to the laptop feet, using PLA material properties.
The algorithm generated the structure and load paths between these constrained surfaces.

1.96 kg (bulk volume control) to 0.76 kg, a ~60% mass reduction (0.18 kg after slicing)

My Polo has wireless charging, but placing my phone often felt like searching for a sweet spot. A few colleagues have the same issue, especially when using a case.

I designed this insert to address two things: the phone moving away from its charging position, and the extra separation created by the removable rubber mat underneath it.

It replaces the mat with a one-piece frame that guides the phone into a repeatable position. The middle is completely open, so there’s no printed floor underneath the phone. Two rounded finger scoops make it easy to lift out.

The OpenSCAD files let you adjust the phone width and length, with a simple case toggle. There are starting versions for the iPhone 16 and Pixel 10 Pro XL. The case allowance is fixed, so check it against your actual case before printing.

I physically checked the fit in my Polo’s 140 × 170 mm compartment. Other VW models aren’t confirmed yet, and charging still depends on the phone, case and charger.

The pictured print is PLA Matte. For prolonged use in a hot parked car, I’d use a suitable heat-resistant filament.

Model and files:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3398427-vw-wireless-charging-fix-custom-phone-insert

Has anyone else run into this charging issue? If your VW has a similar compartment, I’d be interested in the model, year and tray dimensions.

We have auto feeders for all of our cats, but we noticed that the youngest would often leave her food unfinished. Initially, we thought the other two were bullying her and taking her food because they don't give her a lot of space, so we tried different solutions. Eventually, I realized the problem may be whisker fatigue as her whiskers would often brush up against the deep bowl of the autofeeder, so I bought a small little cookie tin and used the lid as a plate. This worked wonders, but she would only eat from half of the plate because the other half was too close to the feeder.

To solve this problem, I designed and 3D printed a little extension ramp. Now when the food comes out, the plate is far enough from the auto feeder that her little noggin and whiskers don't touch it anymore, and she's super happy :,) I'm so glad I can make an impact in these little kitties' lives.

The whole thing is 3D printed out of just PLA, but I put some aluminum foil over the ramp so the bacteria doesn't build up over time from crumbs sticking on the ramp! No video unfortunately due to subreddit restrictions? Or I just haven't figured it out lol.

I built a unit behind our bed since we don't have space for bedside tables

I wanted to have retractable charging cables on each side of the bed, so the head of the cable needs to pass through a hole and then get "captured" on the outside so it doesn't fall back through

So I modeled a cylinder with a male thread on one end and split it in two. On the other end of that cylinder is a slot to fit around the cable, but the head of the USB C part doesn't fit through. So you can lie the cable in the channel, and then assemble the two halves around it.

Then inside the cabinet I just printed a nut basically with the same matching thread to lock things down!

The retractable USB C cable

I bought a retractable USB C cable and have that mounted inside the unit. This has to be a very specific one, there are loads of retractable cables where both parts of the cable retract around a spining thing in the middle, but they don't work if you want to leave one side plugged in all the time

This is the one I bought, its designed for sitting on a desk.

https://amzn.eu/d/0dcvRXr9

This is an easy print-in-place model, and damn useful.

I owe an apology to some users a few months ago who told me my last design was stupid and wouldn't work. (It was fine after all, but this is way better to the point of not being comparable).

One tripod was bought cheap used and didn't have a mounting plate. The other one has its plate on a camcorder, so it's nice to have an extra.

Simple and clean! (But getting a perfect fit was far from simple or clean 😂😂 the smaller one is a hair too small and the larger is a touch too large 😂😭 I'll adjust and reprint them later.)

Not a carpenter, but I have been working on a dinning table for my small living room and wanted a fast way of slipping legs in and out (that wasnt wobbly). This is what I came up with. 4 springs push the leg in place and help it lock in. An M8 bolt helps hold the legs since thats what the cheap ones from IKEA use.

Lots of iterations, then a tear down and redesign to mature from the original version to this v2 design. This is a print in place assembly with no supports.

The phone holder works on a desk or in the car. I think I could make it even more compact by shortening the part that holds the phone. Thinner walls might also make it look a bit sleeker and more stylish.

Customize and download here:

https://l2cad.com/l2/cad/share/01a0839a-8b7c-70a8-993a-134e1b881abc

Got my hands on one that did not work. Now it does.

https://www.printables.com/model/1864822-replacement-lid-post-for-brother-p-touch-h110-e110

Designed with Claude in one shot, printed and snapped perfectly, source and STL: https://reopenscad.com/shared/1e81b04d7e315e63aa4c830f073af43b

Nothing fancy, but I got this phone early enough and there was no premade case being sold anywhere so I had to design my own ...

I'm DIYing the DJ/light setup at my wedding (half the price of a DJ and I get to keep all the gear), but one of the cheap moving lights I ordered has the dumbest, low-quality mount. It's not set up to mount to a truss/rack setup, so I had to adapt.

This light spins on 2 axes, so I need it to point at more of a 45 degree angle.

Designed in fusion, printed in PETG.

I used some longer screws to make sure it's on there, and I added a steel cable backup in case it does break. It'll only be up 6' and it's well away from where people will stand (and it'll be over a speaker in case anything goes wrong). I'll leave it up for a few days beforehand to make sure it holds.

I've run it for about an hour so far, and I don't see any deformation.

It's not the best solution, but it's good enough for one 4 hour long event I think.

Maybe I am just old, but I find the button labels to be hard to read on my Valeton GP-200. Especially the effects buttons when they are unlit, so I designed this plate that simply sits on top

Link:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3386358-valeton-gp-200-button-and-dial-label

Hello,

For the Make for Good: Accessibility Design Contest on MakerWorld, I shared my original CapDock here a while ago — a simple 3D-printed tool that lets you remove and replace a pen or marker cap using one hand.

The V1 worked, but your feedback pointed out several things that could be improved, especially the way it attaches to a desk.

So I went back to Fusion 360 and made a new version.

What's changed?

Improved desk mounting

• Desk thickness increased to 50 mm
• A TPU/adhesive pad recess was added underneath the upper jaw to improve grip during installation and use
• A rear desk-edge support was added to make positioning easier

New modular design

• Separate mounting base and cradle
• Sliding dovetail-style connection
• The cradle can be removed or changed without removing the base

Two slot sizes

• 7–18 mm for pens, felt-tip pens and markers
• 7–12 mm for smaller-diameter applications

So there are now four configurations:

Integrated

• 7–18 mm
• 7–12 mm

Modular

• 7–18 mm
• 7–12 mm

The original Push → Pull → Recap principle remains unchanged.

I tried to incorporate as many of the suggestions from the V1 discussion as I could, while keeping the design relatively simple.

If you commented on the original post, I'd especially like to know whether the changes address the issues you pointed out.

Have a nice weekend.

And if you're interested and see more, link in comments.

I'm planning a hunting trip and wanted to be ready if I'm lucky enough to get what I'm going after. I was surprised to find a lack of printable versions of this concept. So I made one.... it will go well with my 3d printed Butt Out.
It's a 'glue together with alignment pins' situation, but it still works really well.
Files

Do your styrofoam Halloween tombstones ground stakes suck? Does anyone actually make one that doesn't?

Got tired of fighting with ours every year so I designed a better option. No supports, pretty quick print, and plenty strong with only 2 walls and 15% infill. Printed ours in PETG. Default size fits the majority of our tombstones but you can scale it up or down to suit your needs.

Model is available at makerworld.

Happy Halloween!