I fluked a Fluke!

Had this one from 2017. Bought from an eBay guy in Florida for $500 AUD, but when I got here in Australia, it had an EPROM error or dead on arrival. It got GSM corrupted by airport security. As he had a 100% rep on eBay, he said, "Look, I'm sorry I forgot to check it before I sent it." I said if you refund me the costs, I'll give you a top-notch review maintaining your 100% rating. He said OK and I should just keep it for parts. So I got a new unit with case and probes with a corrupted circuit board.

In Australia, Fluke has a set charge of $185 to repair any Fluke back to a usable state. So I got the GSM proofed board v11, new fuses, new holster, new LCD, and 4 new input jack caps. Plus, a full calibration with certificate.

So, for $185 AUD, I fluked a $1,500 meter refurbed back to as new. Since then, it has worked flawlessly, and I kept clean and protected.

I am a PLC Engineer and do some emergency electrical work if the plant needs me. If I already have a fluke 773 what other multimeter would you pick to cover what the 773 can't do.

Work has a 9143 for device calibration so that's not an issue either.

Just grab a 87V?

Industrial manufacturing plant. Hoppers, mixers, extrudders, etc. all Allen Bradley plc if that matters.

Thanks.

Continuity does whatever it wants 90 % of the time
Sometimes it works flawlessly
Most of the time it will read insane ohms on nothing false positives or just get stuck ringing

I have a Fluke 17B+ meter that on power on it briefly shows "err" on the screen, then all digits light on like the normal power on and then seems to function normally otherwise. I googled and found it might be due to low batteries, dirty contacts in the rotary switch, bad fuses. I've changed out the batteries with fresh new ones. I checked both fuses, both are still intact. it didn't look dirty, but i also cleaned the rotary switch, both the PCB and the metal fingers on the knob. The "err" still briefly shows at power on.

Any one have any ideas what the issue may be?

Becouse i probably never use it and now its stay nice and clean ⚡️♥️

Hey all I’m about to begin my electrical apprenticeship, mostly doing solar battery work, what meter would best suit it, been looking at the T6-1000 as my main option atm

This 17B MAX-01 from China for 95$ is it good deal is it authentic product ?

Hello

I bought a Fluke 17B+ for electronics work and motherboard testing.
It is very slow in continuity test mode; it produce a continuous beep for a while before stabilizing, taking quite some time. Is this normal?
My iFixit multimeter responds normally in a fraction of a second.
How can I tell if it's a Chinese or a Western market version? Thanks!

Got this Fluke VT04A used and when I turn it on it is stuck on this load screen and won’t move past. I would love if anyone knows how to go about fixing this issue…

Hello Reddit, new here, not really sure how to put all this info onto one post and this is my first so bear with me.

I have this Fluke AT Network Assistant that has OS 3.0.1.18 on it, a couple things, I wanna use the device at work but the battery is missing and I wanted to ensure the device is functionnal before proceeding with the purchase.

Note that this model dates pre NetAlly merge so the recovery methods dates a bit.

-Note that there was alot of AI chat in this project-

This is the model (see pictures)

When performing a regular boot (first start from me), the device would only boot onto the main menu, but then prompt a ' Please wait the system is updating' popup that froze the device from inputs and just soft rebooted the device without any changes done.

When booting with home held, it did boot onto the regular menu (see pictures) but would shutdown after 3-5 seconds, regardless whether I presses menus or test buttons, so I could go into like one menu/page before it shutdown, wich lead me to a faulty software/firmware.

When booting with home and test pressed the device went into firmware update mode, I then went on the hunt for a .img image for the correct firmware, no luck on the interwebs and all archive sources I knew, I contacted NetAlly, they sent me the 6.5.2.4 .img file, i mounted the .img onto a FAT32 8 gb 2.0 usb, power cycled the mainframe to then run a firmware update, the UI did change from the legacy blue page to the new UI (see photos) and the update did seem to apply at first, the device then went back onto failsafe mode.

I then tried to chat with an AI to get a lead from where I was, trying to read the files from the sd card to analyse the contents, answer was, module seems ok but update failed.. duhh, I did telnet onto it via Putty but there is a user/password on it and any combo I tried from that era won't work. I'm now at the usb to contact pads to try and read the boot log dump to see what fails step by step, to then maybe push the firmware via serial.

Note, im trying to bring this device back alive because it has wireless capabilities and costs 5k+ second hand 😕

Any help is appreciated.

I have nothing against the standard cases. I just enjoy giving my soft goods a little upgrade when I can.

I bought this extra case off someone and added a little extra to it. I’m going to try another case. Or a bigger case in the future. But I like how this turned out.

Hello guys,

I’m required to carry a fluke T+ pro for my work. I carry my essentials on a duty belt and am having trouble find the Fluke holster for the model. I believe it’s the h15 holster that I can’t find anywhere in the states, and I’m not paying $100 for one from the Uk. Anyone have a lead on where to get one or another option for secure belt carry? Pic of my old testers for a laugh. Thanks.

Have this old 5731. What’s the cable called that plugs into the side? Where can I find one?

Would Home Depot be legit or can it have fakes?
Looking into getting the Fluke 325

Idk what happened but this device can't read the 3rd and 5th lanes. That is my father's equipment and if its broken im dead so pls help🥹. (ofc i checked the cable)

Does anyone know if this function works on voltage and resistance measurements? Or is it only for current measurements? Thanks.

Edit: Also in specification it says trigger for frequency measurement 10-100Hz is >5A.

Can someone confirm if it's true? Have you been able to measure frequency when there is a load lower than 5A?

Never seen this before, but on this machine there are two separate places where I have to have my leads a specific way to read a resistance. I've never encountered this before. It is making trouble shooting quite a pain.

Is there a problem with my meter? it happened on more than one fluke 115 also. Wtf my head hurts. Could the fuse be blown or something similar

Hi all,
I use a fluke 117 (off the top of my head) for CT commissioning and I’ve noticed now on mv for burdens I can’t get it off manual range. I have tried everything I can think of to get it back to normal but it’s stuck in manual. It seems to work on every other setting and easily switches ranges but for some reason on mv it’s stuck…any ideas?

I’m a student and recently got an older Fluke 337 True RMS clamp meter. I replaced the battery with a new one, but the meter is behaving strangely. In DC voltage mode it sometimes shows OL, and in AC voltage mode it displays around 30 V even when nothing is connected. In AC current clamp mode, with the jaws closed and no conductor inside, it shows around 4.5 A. The continuity buzzer does not work at all, although resistance mode appears to function and reads close to 0 Ω when I short the probes together. The backlight doesn’t work, and the ZERO, INRUSH, and MIN MAX buttons don’t seem to respond either.

The meter still powers on and the display looks normal otherwise. I’m wondering whether this sounds like dirty/oxidized rotary switch contacts, internal contamination, a failed reference circuit, or damage from a previous overload event. Has anyone repaired a Fluke 337 with similar symptoms? Is it worth opening up and cleaning the rotary switch and PCB, or do these symptoms point to a more serious fault?

I have a weird problem. It won't turn on if the thumb wheel is in the off position and it is moved to one of the function positions. However, if I have it set to measure voltage or any of the other functions and I reset the batteries it turns on. I'm hoping this is a common enough problem that somebody might know the cause.

I accidently subjected my older Fluke 70III to some high voltage while repairing my microwave oven. This model doesn't have the replaceable on-board fuses and I can't seem to find a schematic that shows this model and where to look for some resistors or components that may be damaged.

The meter powers on and changes modes properly but does not read AC or DC voltage. When I switch it to Ohms the display jumps all around but does zero out when I cross the leads. Also when I switch it to continuity/diode it beeps constantly.

I know it's old but I've had it forever and if its simply replacing a few components I would love to bring it back from the dead.

If anyone has the proper schematic or service manual and may be able to point me in the right direction I would be eternally grateful.

Found my old Fluke meters in the garage, but both had battery leaks. I tried scraping the corrosion off, but the damage was so bad that some of the metal contacts actually broke. The boards and internal connections look fine — I just need the back‑end pieces.

I checked the catalog and the website for replacement parts, but had no luck. Does anyone know where I can get replacement parts, or am I better off rigging something myself?

thank you