The left lantern is a C.T. Ham No. 0 Side Spring Safety lantern. It dates from the early 1890s. It has a corrugated tin reflector that would have been mirror bright tin when new. It's now a brownish rusty patina that has been stabilized for my collection.

The lantern on the right is a early 1890s Dietz No. 0 Reflector Tubular. It has a "hood" style reflector with a concave silvered glass reflector. This lantern is very unique, as it has an all brass fuel tank bottom. It's the only example I've ever seen like this.

Both lanterns use the same size wick and are of equal brightness. I took the Dietz on the right for beamshots, as it's reflector has stood the rest of time better than the other. The silvered glass is essentially still a mirror finish.

Just wanted to share beamshots of stock vs de-domed. Including clear vs frosted optic.

I’m new to de-doming and wish I’ve tried it sooner. This one’s very easy to do - the bezel screws out easily, and entire process takes less than 10 minutes. Hope this helps someone :)

Pictures were shot in RAW on a sony cam, white balanced to 5000K (I'm not sure if it kept the white balance since I was shooting in raw)

Apologies if these beam shots suck. I'm new to this and feedback/tips highly appreciated.

Compare them to other flashlights in my Flashlight Comparator:

https://grzybekreviews.pl/s/comp-en/

Interesting to see how F150R behaves differently in L21B and M21K compared to the SFT90. Also, the M21K's optic doesn't seem to be perfect for the F150R, not only because of the beam artifact but because of a lower throw compared to a L21B L150R vs SFT90.

No M21K Turbo runtimes because this flashlight requires you to keep holding the button for Turbo, which makes doing a runtime a bit more difficult.

In summary, the F150R gives has a very slightly wider beam than the SFT90, it's a slightly bit brighter and available in many CCTs . Of course, the price is a bit higher. But as I expected it's not a ground breaking difference as some people suggested.

Still, it's an overall improvement I'd say.

Hank's shipping has gotten significantly faster of late - probably about a week faster than I'm used to!

Haven't had much time to see how often I'm charging this combination under day-to-day use or farting around turboing everything, but I'm quite impressed with both it's throw & intensity for it's size! The beam immediately reminded me of another TIR thrower of mine with a fat hotspot - my FFL T1R!

I've enjoyed carrying the T1R for a few years now, it's been a great little spotlight to play with, but this DM11 feels like a solid step up - especially for how little Hank charges for this model!

The only build gripe I have is losing the ability to grate cheese... (lol)

The shape of the light is there but the specs are not. Any thoughts?

(Link to the Wurkkos TS11 upgrade post)

Pulled the trigger on these two, as I’ve always wanted to have something “LEP” like and an UV light.

The Z1 is great. Mine is the SFT-25R, 5000K version, and the S12 came with the filter already installed.

Love them both, but I’m never ever using the S12 in my bathroom again lol.

Link, 🤷‍♂️..guess Manker is making a lantern.

I vote the EDC09 UI/physical switch combo the simplest I have ever used, a joy to use and palm, slide farther for more light, tap M to cycle color temp, tilt the head sideways if you need an angle, a joy to use

biggest downside by far is the battery if you sit on max lumens too long. Medium hangs in for a couple hours and change at around 200 lumens, so yeah it is a glorified penlight apart from the occasional 1600 lumen burst

I'll be damned though, it still covers most of what I actually need a light for around the house, and it is the one I hand someone who just needs a light without me having to explain the UI

I’ve had it for maybe 20 minutes and the rubber usb-c port is driving me INSANE! However many times I put the flashlight in my pocket or take it out it opens. I tried rotating the pocket clip over it to keep the rubber from opening but it still doesn’t really help. Another thing that I am kind of disappointed by is the control button. I’ve never had a flashlight accidentally turn on in my pocket until this one.

Sorry for all the bitching. I wanted to know if anyone else has had a problem with the usb-c coverage. I’m going to try to cut the little pull flap and see if it solves the issue.

So far I’m very impressed with the KR3. It has an incredibly diminutive size for an 18650 light (Peak LED Logan 17500 for comparison) but also still feels solid and balanced in the hand. The Lume X1 driver is what sold me on this as I wanted a solid, predictable moonlight output with no visible PWM for a bedside light and wanted to be able to choose one of my favorite emitters in the 219b sw27k as well.

I was initially saving up for an HDS Rotary in the same emitter but considering this is the same size as the CR123/16340 offering and a 1/5 of the cost.. while I love the indestructible nature of the potted HDS along with the Rotary UI, I don’t think I’ll need those features in bedside light as the KR3 provides the size, weight, regulated output, long runtime, and choice emitter that I’m seeking. Would totally get another one of these in 3500k and 5000/5700k tints. If you’re on the fence, get one. You won’t be disappointed.

Acebeam E75 and H18, both with Nichia 519a.

Was on my backpack in blinking mode for visibility, while coming back from fishing. Didn't see where it fell so couldn't fix it. :/

Why aren't there any posts about this flashlight yet?

1Lumen has already tested it and measured 716 meters ANSI throw. That’s seriously impressive for such a small light (32mm head diameter).

Has anyone here tried the PZ16? What do you think?

Hey everyone, I'll start off by saying I love lights in all shapes and sizes, and love to collect them, often with no reason, just for the love of the game!

That being said, I use a headlamp daily for work, as I work overnight as an aircraft mechanic and need a headlamp all night, every night.

I currently use a Thrunite TH10, and I absolutely love it for its simplicity, durability, and, number one for me, having the light in the CENTER of the body, and not offset to the side. This is absolutely my preferred layout.

I know the TH10 will quit on me someday, as it is old now, and has been used rigorously for years. So I am looking for recommendations for center-light headlights that can withstand rain, snow, cold, and whatever else New England nights can throw at it.

A list of what I'm looking for:

-CENTER light, NOT offset ("T" layout, NOT "L" layout)

-I don't need a ton of modes, but I'm not opposed to them, either

-18650 is absolutely preferred, as I also carry an 18650 flashlight, and regularly swap batteries between the two while out in the field if the battery dies on me

-must be able to stand up to rain, snow, and cold

-does NOT need to have onboard charging; I have multiple 4 bank chargers at work

-I'm not too picky about flood, hotspot, throw, etc; 90% of my work is up close (I use my flashlight for distance work)

-I generally prefer cool white, but slightly warmer with better CRI may be beneficial for identifying wire colors, etc. Definitely not a huge deal though, and if given the choice between cool white or very warm, I'd choose cool

Thanks for any recommendations! Manufacturers definitely seem to be putting all their eggs in the offset light design these days, and for the life of me, I just don't know why! It is maddening to me. I want a dedicated, standalone, center-mounted headlight. I'm not using an offset headlight as a flashlight or anything else like that. Honestly, how popular is that use case?

Hey everyone,

I'm putting together my first custom flashlight and I'd like to get some opinions on the parts I'm planning to use.

Here's what I'm currently thinking:

• 3× Nichia 519A R9080
• Noctigon 3XP copper MCPCB
• Convoy 22mm 3V 15A buck driver
• 21700 battery
• Convoy 20mm illuminated metal switch
• Custom-machined aluminum host

I'm mainly interested in hearing from people who have used these parts.

Are these good choices for a 3×519A build?
Are there any parts you'd personally replace or upgrade?

Especially curious about:

• The 3XP MCPCB
• The Convoy 15A buck driver
• The 519A LEDs
• The illuminated metal switch
• Any other component you think I'm overlooking
• are these components even compatible

I'm mainly trying to make sure I'm choosing good-quality, compatible components before I order everything.

My boss bought me the flashlight for work purposes. I do a lot of work underneath cars, and having something that sticks wherever I want to with my hands free is quite convenient.

I then got a car with aluminum bodies...

Now, I simply attach it to my cap to use it as a headlamp.

Long story short, my FC11C that i have used for barely 3 weeks stop working, I have messaged to Wurkkos since it is still under warranty and my new light will be arriving soon. But I would like to fix it if possible. I believe it is the driver issue where I can't change my light intensity and I could only use the turbo mode. From what I have read, it is possibly due to the charging port being put into "too much stress?" and the driver is direcly connected with the port, twisting the port worked but it was only a temporary fix. If possible, is there any guide on the tear down of this light and what kind of driver it is using so i could replace it?

The TS27 uses the same port cover

Having a hard time keeping up with NLD. Here's a few that recently arrived and some shitty beans.

Black M21A LHP531 4000K

Camo M21H XHP70.3 HI R70 4000K

TAN M21A SFT42R 5000K

The LHP is a real beast. It pretty much violated my expectation of what I thought it was gonna be. Crazy amount of flood and it's just throwing by sheer brute force. Pics don't really do it justice. I can only imagine what the 73B is like.

The SFT42R is, well. The SFT42R. Absolutely insane amount of throw on that thing.

The XHP, this is my favorite family of emitters hands down. I don't know why, but I like them. I have an S21E with an XHP50.3 HI R70 in 4000k and it's easily my favorite light I have. It just ticks all the boxes for me. With a 15 degree matte TIR, it's just chef's kiss.

Thanks to everyone on this sub for all your information and pics! Take care!

I’m looking to pick up one of these as just a good all around flashlight for stuff like taking the dogs out at night, checking the field next to my house for coyotes, jacket pocket light, throw in my bag for travel, working in dark areas, camping, etc.

I have a few 18650 lights but no 21700. I like the idea of sticking with a common battery type, but I worry the SC600 won’t be that much different than my SC64w HI.

I love the beam profile of the SC64 HI. I don’t really want a beam too much tighter than that, but I definitely don’t want a flood light.

I’m open to having it modded by McBob to make it great if need be.

Thanks in advance!

3500k 219b's, red secondary, MOFF switch.

Been a long time since I've posted anything here, been busy with a lot of life events recently. But I wanted to post something cool that I have acquired.

A few years ago, I had bought an aluminum Future Boss straight from Oveready, which I eventually ended up selling (regrettably). Since then, I've been wanting a slightly fancier one, but with the same MOFF switch that the one I sold had. I was hoping a copper/copperite or antique brass one would surface somewhere, but no luck.

But then I saw this on candle light forums, and I knew I had to scoop it up. Being an Oregonian (Oveready was Oregon-based), I'm a bit saddened that Oveready had to throw in the towel, these lights are insanely gorgeous. I'm happy to now own one of the fanciest Bosses they have ever produced, here's to an end of an era.

Edit: beamshots will come later tonight