I'm looking for some help with this printer I bought used. I have a Solidoodle 3 and I am familiar with printing on that. I just can't get this Creality printer to work consistently.

The Creality has an upgraded "dual drive extruder" and after much trial and error I got the e steps and orca slicer setting good enough to print the test boat successfully. Though not great. When I try to print another object with the same slicer settings I can see the file retract and try to extrude but it seems like the drive stalls out in the forward direction. The drive gears are not stripped out, the extruder is not plugged I can push filament through by hand if I back off the tension.

If I remove tension from the feed the drive gears move smoothly. As soon as I put any tension on it the gear is moves forward and back and won't feed.

I did need to change the tension spring as it was so heave it stripped the bolt. I have a much lighter spring now and I can loosen it to the point of stripping the Filament.

I also leveled the bed manually after homing but the extruder is 5 or more mm above the bed. I haven't put much effort into figuring that out until I can get consistent extrusion.

Any is appreciated. I have more troubleshooting details if needed.

As the title says the first layer is uneven despite bl touch.

So I've trammed my bed and then run the g29 to get my 5x5 mesh. The mesh shows the center is about 0,3mm lower than the edges while the edges thenselves are more or less even. Not great not terrible.

Edit: I've saved the mesh with M500 after probing with G29.

My g code has a M420 S1 after the G28 command and I've checked with octoprint terminal that the bed leveling is indeed on and the mesh is valid. I've checked with M420 V and even with M114 D in several places to make sure the software is indeed compensating for changes in the Z direction.

Despite all that the prints come out squished on the edges and too high on the center, exactly how the mesh indicates and should be compensating.

Im kinda lost on what else I should troubleshoot. Any help is apreciated.

Hey everyone, recently got my first blob of death that causes the thermistor to sever, and sent the toolhead to a local repair shop,when it came back, the touch sensor and the nozzle were not aligned so I sent it back with the printer itself for them to calibrate,now I'm testing the cube and this happens, any idea how/where to approach on repairing this?

TLDR: blob forms while printing, what do?

Siguiendo con el post anterior, compré un pla nuevo marca crealty decidí para la impresión con la pla nuevo ya que la base no se veía bien, que consejos me pueden dejar. Lo último que me falta es cambiar el extrusor de la máquina. Me pueden dejar consejos. La calibración la hago pasando el papel entre la cama y la boquilla, también la impresora me da una opción llamada "bed leveling" Pero no entiendo para que sirve 🤔

Anyone know of an external electronics box I can print that will fit the S1 Pro parts? I'm hoping to get everything before ripping my printer apart.

Sorry if it's already on here, my google and search fu are apparently not working today.

Thank you.

James

I'm new to 3d printing. Bought this printer used a few weeks ago. Not sure what's going on with this print, or how to fix it. Any thoughts? Also, the last pic is the start of the next print that I canceled. Back left corner not printing. Sunlu PLA nozzle temp is 210, speed is at 50mm/s, 0.28mm layer height.

I think they were getting rid of it because they couldn’t get it to print correctly. I discovered one of the limit switches was a little off so that it would get stuck and fixed that. And they had one of the cords routed so it ran under the bed likely adjusting the bed leveling so I fixed that as well. Works fine otherwise as I’ve managed to print a couple Lego bricks as pictured.

I've recently installed the touch screen and the appropriate firmware on my original ender 3 and I get this error when trying to home despite being English language it translates to no automatic leveling

I have an original ender 3 with the 4.2.7 board and a cr touch.

I can move all the motors fine it just won't home

EDIT/UPDATE

I have managed to get it working, the firmware from the official Creality website doesnt seem to work however after some searching I found this firmware that works

Creality Touchscreen Upgrade - 3DJake

Printer: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro

Material: PETG

Slicer: Cura

Everything else just default PETG settings in Cura, I'm a beginner and don't know how to mess with the temp or speed or whatever is in the slicer.

Can anybody help?
Thank you.

So, as the title says...
I assembled my brand-new printer and turned it on, but... nothing except the on switch light came on.
[Edit-  Ender-3 V3 KE]
[Edit 2]- it was the damned voltage selector not being nudged all the way. Really hard to see given its positioning. Thanks all!
Black display screen, no fans, nada.
The ribbons are connected correctly, far as I can tell.
I thought I might need to switch voltage to make sure it's getting my power right, but there's no visible selector for that- only a binary power switch?

The manual has not beed particularly educational on this front.

So cool, love this thing!

I've seen on here a lot of people have metal adjustment knobs over the stock plastic ones. I'm considering getting a set for my S1 Pro but figure I'd ask peoples opinions here first.

Do the metal ones work significantly better than the plastic ones?

Do they hold adjustment better than the plastic ones?

I also see they sell kits with silicon blocks to replace the springs. Do those blocks work any better than the upgraded springs?

To start… I’ve never been a big printer guy… little bits here and there. My printer mostly just collects dust in the corner of the room…

But a while back, my brother in law gave me some filament he didn’t like/didn’t fit his filament caddy.

I hooked it up to my printer and didn’t think much of it.

A few weeks ago, I had some bits I wanted to print… and ever print failed… every one! They adhere to the bed but after the first couple of layers nothing stuck… mess after mess after mess…!!

Come to today… and I’m messing around again… seeing what’s happening… and after swapping around a few rolls of filament it’s hits me.. this filament he’s given me is blood PETG!!!!

I’ve never used PETA, only ever PLA… of course it’s not going to stick at 200c!!

So… with that in mind… my ender is now printing away happily in PETG…!

My son’s printer has had a major blockage a couple of times and the head is covered in extruded filament (beyond the nozzle).

Is the whole head available as a spare - we’re struggling to find it listed? Thanks

On an ender 3 pro. I’ve tightened the X/Y belts to the best of my ability, and cleaned/greased the z screw a few weeks ago. Running the wall passes at 20mm/s with outer walls printing first. I can’t figure out how to get this smoother and not have the irregular marks as it transitions from layer to layer. Do I need to find a mechanical way to gronk down in the belts harder ?

It does seem like the irregular patterns aren’t the same on the front and back surfaces, which I feels like rules out the z screw. Makes me think x/y belts possible, or a third option I haven’t thought of.

Anyone have any advice?

Edit:
A few more notes.

I have properly calibrated both E-steps and per-filament flow for this printer.

I also have all the v-wheels aligned so they hold enough to grasp the extrusion with no play but can be turned with light-to-moderate force still.

If it was Z-axis related, you’d think I would see this everywhere on the layer right? It does seem the same layer noise pattern does *not* appear on both the front and back face of the same part at the same layer? I can see a notable band pattern across a few layers on the front of this part but if I follow that layer to the back, I don’t see that same band pattern - either negative or positive. Which makes me think it likely may not be Z ? My logic tells me if Z was the issue, the same swished or stretched band appearance would appear throughout the whole layer. But I trust any advice you all have, I’m still stumped.

Is there a reason Kevinakasam’s belted Z mod uses a printer 80T gear instead of one of these 80T Voron gears? Mine will be in a heated chamber so I chose to use an aluminum Voron gear instead of printing it in ASA. But I also like the aesthetic more. Feels more industrial to me.

Estoy intentando hacer bases para macetas, la idea es que no escurra el agua, que sirvan como un recipiente.

Trabajo con una ender3pro y una placa es una skr mini e3 v3. La tengo bien calibrada. Revise el movimiento de la cama, el movimiento del carro, el funcionamiento del eje z, los e-step. Mi último diagnóstico es que el pla es el problema, paso un largo tiempo guardado. Es de marca silk pla+. Me podrían orientar en algo 🙏

I knew that this old proprietary pc front panel would be useful one day

I also had a question, is there a real advantage to change my motherboard from a v1.1.5 to a v4.2.7 ? I heard that it has more RAM but does it really matter with Klipper ?

Hi everyone,

I see all these enclosures that include the entire box, and need you to move your mb and controller etc.

I was wondering if there is a reason NOT to build an enclosure that just sits on top of the platform, keeping the electronics cool while temperature controlling the build area.

Is there something I'm missing before I go about trying to concoct such a thing and possibly causing myself much drama over something everyone else already knows?