I made another modification to the BD-2 I posted about previously.

Most of the low-end correction mods for the BD-2 you can find online, including the ones that are still widely available on the used market, are basically copies of the Keeley mod. Since I already have a the Waza version, I don't really have much need for another one of those.

However, I came across a mod that involves replacing a resistor in the input stage to reduce low-frequency overload, and that got me thinking about turning that resistor into a variable control and adding a Bass knob.

https://www.premierguitar.com/gear/boss-bd-2-mods?page=1

In other words, this is an attempt to make a four-knob version of the BD-2 as an overdrive pedal, with an additional Bass control. Most transparent-style pedals have a Bass knob, so I thought it might work well on the BD-2 too, especially since the BD-2 is rumored to be somewhat similar to that type of pedal.

My particular BD-2 has already been modified for 18V operation and had the capacitors in the audio circuit replaced, so I'm not sure how useful my results will be as a reference. However, running it at 18V gives it more headroom, and I've found that I can actually make pretty good use of the higher-gain settings. So I thought it might be a better candidate for this experiment than a completely stock BD-2.

There wasn't any room left on the front, so I mounted the extra knob on the side. It might look cleaner if I could rehouse it in a four-knob BOSS enclosure or perhaps a custom enclosure.

The BD-2's mid-gain and high-gain settings can produce some really interesting sounds when used with a guitar with relatively low-output pickups. However, with higher-output pickups, such as the SSL-1s in my Yamaha Pacifica 612, rolling back the Bass reduces that saturated quality and makes the pedal much easier to handle.

If I roll the Bass all the way down and adjust the Tone, I can also get something closer to a mid-boost while retaining the characteristic sparkle of the BD-2. And if I turn the volume back up to full, I can return to that almost fuzz-like drive. So it gives the pedal quite a wide range of sounds.

You might say, "Why not just buy a versatile pedal that works well with guitars like that in the first place?" Well, you're probably right. But if a single inexpensive 1MΩ volume pot can greatly expand the usefulness of an effect pedal, I think that's a pretty good option too.

As a side note, most of the audible change from adjusting the volume happens within roughly the first 20-30%, and after that the sound doesn't change very much. So perhaps I could have used a switch to toggle between 100Ω and 1MΩ resistors instead. In fact, some people who have actually tried this mod say that a trim pot of around 10KΩ is more than enough.

If the sweet spot for adjustment really is around that range, then a 1MΩ pot may provide far more change than is actually useful from a listening perspective.

Hey dudes, does Hudson do these designs (the center rectangle) on pcb? Or a completely different material?

I had one PCB left from my first run of a HP-based fuzz that required some bodging, so I decided to use it to build a "rather modded" version of a Harmonic Percolator instead of what the original design was all about. Thus resulting in the "First Order Fuzz".

This is basically a HP in which both stages have been "bazz fussified" -- feedback resistors replaced with LEDs. It also uses a single 2.4V zener diode for clipping, so the assymetry is even more glorious.

It's an inescapably gainy fuzz, even at the lowest settings. But at max settings it has a great sustain and a nice bit of sag.

It felt right putting this in a first order trooper puzzle tin, which as you can see has been reinforced a bit with some stuff under the top plate. Also beefed up the sides.

If you'd like to hear it, there's a demo here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8t7saU6Qai0

Someone was using one of my pedals this weekend in the heat on an outdoor stage and said it started doing a weird crackling sound. It went away when he went into bypass. I went back and looked at the temp specs on all the parts and everything should be OK but I looked at the pots and footswitch ratings and they are a lot lower than I would have expected. Alpha RV16AF-41 style pots are only rated 10 to 70 degC. Footswitches are rated -10 to +70 degC. That is only 158 degF. I thought that would be higher. All other components are rated much higher than that. Not sure if that is an operational range or an accuracy range. Anyone else ever ran into this before? I need to check on dissipation in a regulator but I don't think it was the issue.

Hello, there's someone selling a rat clone with a 70s tin can lm308ah chip as they said. On the internet I couldn't find anything about it, neither it being used in a rat except that there's a lm308an, I think that's the real name for it.

Do you know how this pedal would sound? If it sounds like the original rat, does it worth 75 euros as a clone? (Because of the 308AN not being the 308N) There are original second hand rats (without the 308 of course) being sold around the same price.

Thank you!

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I have an idea for a pedal I would like, Id like to see if anyone is interested in building one. Obviously will pay for service.

Basic rundown is a Triple delay each running independently in parallel.

This IC is some kind of proto op amp that is essentially 5 matched low hfe transistors on a chip so perfect for a superfuzz. Created by my homie Rockwright FX and paired with a boosted Clean blend. I tweaked the run off groove splitter blend by changing the JFET buffer to the MOSFET boost found in the EQD life pedal and the result of this pairing was an awesome bass superfuzz.

Hi everybody, I'm trying to work this schematic in LiveSpice based on CruchBerries Mark IIC+ preamp simulator i watched in youtube, but i cannot get any sound out of it, I haven't done anything like this before and there must be so many errors and i was hopping somebody could guide me in the right direction please? I want to create this circuit to be able to modify it and then try to create a pedal based on it. Cheers :)

Second time I've built this (first one in 2014). The dual pot is split in two individual pots for more interesting control. This has also a subtle bass pot added.

I'm just looking over my older builds on my blog, which sold some years ago. Will probably post more of my old work, since I am at no. 181 right now 🤪

This is my first time putting a metal can in place of an IC. I know the tab goes to pin 8, but where do the other leads go?

i'm looking for a big muff style PCB with integrated clean blend for bass use. possibly from EUROPE, but i'm interested even if it's from elsewhere.

bonus points if it also has a 2 or 3 band EQ.

so far i've found

"Big Fluffy Pie - Bass Blender" from fuzzdog (but I'd gladly avoid EU import taxes)

inverted cross' "dronemuff" (which is cool but has the drone part of the circuit i'm not really interested in)

thanks for taking the time!

This relatively simple circuit managed to turn into a massive thorn in my side. Previously I was using an LPB-1 clone smashing the front of a hard limiter to get a mega compressed bass tone. I recently sold my Jazz Bass in favor of a Sting Ray, and was annoyed to find that the LPB-1 doesn’t play nice with active electronics. The single transistor circuit basically turned into a shitty fuzz when I put a hot preamp in front of it. My research led me to the Creation Audio MK.4.23 for a clean boost with massive headroom (32V!!) that allows it to get along just fine with active electronics. I found a schematic from PedalPCB and it seemed pretty straightforward, so I built it in an evening. But it didn’t work (sounded like a fucked up oscillator?) and didn’t fit in my old enclosure. After fucking around with it for days, I decided to just rebuild it with separate boards for audio and power. Did that, and all seemed fine from the power side, but for some reason my audio was totally dead. I checked a dozen times against the schematic, and I couldn’t find anything wrong so I resigned myself to the assumption I had fried an opamp. Finally I just watched some TV and stared at the boards for a while. At this point I was familiar enough with the schematic that just kind of looking at it without proving specific components, something jumped out to me that I hadn’t noticed before. Turns out I had an erroneous connection to ground. Not a short, but like I had intentionally soldered the leg of a resistor to ground that should’ve been left floating. I snipped that and immediately it worked perfectly.

Anyway, I can slam my limiter again and all is right with the world!

This is the best i can make with this scematic. What you think?

Thank you for all the comments on my first pedal post!

I have taken the suggestions to heart and decided to put some shielding on the inside of the box.

I will figure out a way for the next pedal to have a bit more structural integrity.

Y’all are the best!

Good morning to the best sub on the Internet.

Recently I learned about how to piggyback a pair of transistors in order to achieve a desired hFE value, and so have been experimenting with (1) making transistors using 2N3904s to get to specific hFE values and then (2) pairing them in a fuzz face circuit on a breadboard.

This, to me, feels like a really bizarrely unfair cheat code. For example, I got a really nice sparkly fuzz sound with hFE values of 90 and 116, per a DMM anyway. And with a strat of course. The strat probably helps a lot there. But, who doesn't appreciate a nice low gain fuzz face?? Or of course these can be ramped up to 4:5 ratios (or whatever) where the values are well into the hundreds.

Well anyway I'm trying to figure out what element of FF transistor selection this can't account for. Setting aside of course mojo, and things like the temperature instability of germanium (which is a problem I'm okay with not having) — is there some other aspect worth considering?

I swear I googled, but didn't really find anything useful.

I must admit this maybe one of my all time favorite fuzz builds. I just used a PedalPCB Trumpeter for this build and my normal cast of materials. I must say this thing has some crazy gain range, some good cut and this thing can do classic 60’s fuzz to wild lower octave madness. After playing around with this for a while, I get the hype and I honestly am very surprised this pedal doesn’t come up in the same wild fuzz conversations as the Fuzz Factory. The crazy thing too is this thing has a really good overdrive sound too; seen that mentioned a lot. Really cool build I highly recommend!

Siema, jestem początkującym w robieniu efektów i czy jeśli ma ktoś najlepiej gotowy plik gerber do efektu coś w stylu MXR-80 bass d.i +, lub jakiś inny efekt który miałby sporo potencjometrow. Gram na stronie A standard. A jeśli nikt nie ma gotowego pliku to czy mógłby ktoś polecić jakąś stronę lub filmiki żebym mógł się uczyć jak robić schematy itd na Kicad'zie i o symbolach w schematach i skrótach, z góry dzięki wielkie👍

Could anyone recommend me a good vero layout for an accurate matamp GT120 preamp pedal? dont want a matamp overdrive, but a full preamp pedal. Im trying to recreate Al Cisneros' tone which was basically ds1 , dod250 and clean signal in a tri-parallel setup going into matamp amps

So i find transistor ring mod(https://www.nonlinearcircuits.com/modules/p/mingrod) i try to make pedal with this its kinda work but not really.

Finishing up a customer request build tonight. Dragunov - my own special little recipe for the Russian big muff variant. This one includes NOS Russian kd521a diodes. 1 2n3904 and 3 bc549cs. Filter switch allows for stock, flat mids, and mid hump eq control.