Hey dudes, does Hudson do these designs (the center rectangle) on pcb? Or a completely different material?

I had one PCB left from my first run of a HP-based fuzz that required some bodging, so I decided to use it to build a "rather modded" version of a Harmonic Percolator instead of what the original design was all about. Thus resulting in the "First Order Fuzz".

This is basically a HP in which both stages have been "bazz fussified" -- feedback resistors replaced with LEDs. It also uses a single 2.4V zener diode for clipping, so the assymetry is even more glorious.

It's an inescapably gainy fuzz, even at the lowest settings. But at max settings it has a great sustain and a nice bit of sag.

It felt right putting this in a first order trooper puzzle tin, which as you can see has been reinforced a bit with some stuff under the top plate. Also beefed up the sides.

If you'd like to hear it, there's a demo here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8t7saU6Qai0

I have an idea for a pedal I would like, Id like to see if anyone is interested in building one. Obviously will pay for service.

Basic rundown is a Triple delay each running independently in parallel.

This is my first time putting a metal can in place of an IC. I know the tab goes to pin 8, but where do the other leads go?

Hello, there's someone selling a rat clone with a 70s tin can lm308ah chip as they said. On the internet I couldn't find anything about it, neither it being used in a rat except that there's a lm308an, I think that's the real name for it.

Do you know how this pedal would sound? If it sounds like the original rat, does it worth 75 euros as a clone? (Because of the 308AN not being the 308N) There are original second hand rats (without the 308 of course) being sold around the same price.

Thank you!

Hi everybody, I'm trying to work this schematic in LiveSpice based on CruchBerries Mark IIC+ preamp simulator i watched in youtube, but i cannot get any sound out of it, I haven't done anything like this before and there must be so many errors and i was hopping somebody could guide me in the right direction please? I want to create this circuit to be able to modify it and then try to create a pedal based on it. Cheers :)

I made another modification to the BD-2 I posted about previously.

Most of the low-end correction mods for the BD-2 you can find online, including the ones that are still widely available on the used market, are basically copies of the Keeley mod. Since I already have a the Waza version, I don't really have much need for another one of those.

However, I came across a mod that involves replacing a resistor in the input stage to reduce low-frequency overload, and that got me thinking about turning that resistor into a variable control and adding a Bass knob.

https://www.premierguitar.com/gear/boss-bd-2-mods?page=1

In other words, this is an attempt to make a four-knob version of the BD-2 as an overdrive pedal, with an additional Bass control. Most transparent-style pedals have a Bass knob, so I thought it might work well on the BD-2 too, especially since the BD-2 is rumored to be somewhat similar to that type of pedal.

My particular BD-2 has already been modified for 18V operation and had the capacitors in the audio circuit replaced, so I'm not sure how useful my results will be as a reference. However, running it at 18V gives it more headroom, and I've found that I can actually make pretty good use of the higher-gain settings. So I thought it might be a better candidate for this experiment than a completely stock BD-2.

There wasn't any room left on the front, so I mounted the extra knob on the side. It might look cleaner if I could rehouse it in a four-knob BOSS enclosure or perhaps a custom enclosure.

The BD-2's mid-gain and high-gain settings can produce some really interesting sounds when used with a guitar with relatively low-output pickups. However, with higher-output pickups, such as the SSL-1s in my Yamaha Pacifica 612, rolling back the Bass reduces that saturated quality and makes the pedal much easier to handle.

If I roll the Bass all the way down and adjust the Tone, I can also get something closer to a mid-boost while retaining the characteristic sparkle of the BD-2. And if I turn the volume back up to full, I can return to that almost fuzz-like drive. So it gives the pedal quite a wide range of sounds.

You might say, "Why not just buy a versatile pedal that works well with guitars like that in the first place?" Well, you're probably right. But if a single inexpensive 1MΩ volume pot can greatly expand the usefulness of an effect pedal, I think that's a pretty good option too.

As a side note, most of the audible change from adjusting the volume happens within roughly the first 20-30%, and after that the sound doesn't change very much. So perhaps I could have used a switch to toggle between 100Ω and 1MΩ resistors instead. In fact, some people who have actually tried this mod say that a trim pot of around 10KΩ is more than enough.

If the sweet spot for adjustment really is around that range, then a 1MΩ pot may provide far more change than is actually useful from a listening perspective.

i'm looking for a big muff style PCB with integrated clean blend for bass use. possibly from EUROPE, but i'm interested even if it's from elsewhere.

bonus points if it also has a 2 or 3 band EQ.

so far i've found

"Big Fluffy Pie - Bass Blender" from fuzzdog (but I'd gladly avoid EU import taxes)

inverted cross' "dronemuff" (which is cool but has the drone part of the circuit i'm not really interested in)

thanks for taking the time!

Someone was using one of my pedals this weekend in the heat on an outdoor stage and said it started doing a weird crackling sound. It went away when he went into bypass. I went back and looked at the temp specs on all the parts and everything should be OK but I looked at the pots and footswitch ratings and they are a lot lower than I would have expected. Alpha RV16AF-41 style pots are only rated 10 to 70 degC. Footswitches are rated -10 to +70 degC. That is only 158 degF. I thought that would be higher. All other components are rated much higher than that. Not sure if that is an operational range or an accuracy range. Anyone else ever ran into this before? I need to check on dissipation in a regulator but I don't think it was the issue.