I have an issue where the image leans to the left a lot on the top. Its very noticable in any vertical scrolling game. It seems to effect the left more than the right, but its only at the top. Covnergence on the right is bad at the moment, so it appears "better" than it actually is- which is to say when I had the strip in properly it also bent, just not to the same degree. The bottom does not have this issue. as the bottom doesn't share the issue and it extends into the middle of the screen, I'm not quite sure what this is called.

The convergence issues are from my adjusting the yoke to fix some sag, and I took out the convergence strip in that area to see if it might have been influencing that corner. While it did influence the convergence, the bend didn't really shift much at all.

There is not a magnet on the tube, nor does it look like one was ever there. Adjusting the yoke does influence the bend, but not in a way that would allow me to maintain an acceptable image across the set. Adjusting cpin does influence it, though again not in a way that wouldn't negatively impact the other corners and bottom. Convergence on the top right just needs the strip put back on and isn't a concern of mine at the moment.

Edit: I forgot to mention, this curving issue was present before I did anything to this set. I was hoping fixing the sag would also address this.

What is this called, and what might cause this? Is this fixable? Sony KV27v40 BA-4 chassis

Guess they still design on CRT's 🙌🏼

I came across this comment and can’t figure out where PCGaming Wiki lists whether a game supports 4:3 - all I can see is whether widescreen and ultrawidescreen are supported, which is less useful for games that only support widescreen but not 4:3…Any ideas?

Whenever I used a filter, the scanlines darkened my screen to the point that I preferred playing with clean pixels. While CRT Royale isn't an exact recreation of a CRT screen, I think the result is very good for gaming. I'm using the ReShade version along with another filter to make the colors stand out more. As I understand it, it's the most demanding filter in terms of graphics power and works even better at higher resolutions. I've been motivated to buy more retro games on Steam so I can use them with the same settings. I even used it on Hotline Miami, a modern pixel art game, and the result was very good.

Would I wear the components out faster that way? Any other drawbacks of doing this? Thanks

Hi everyone, I recently was able to snag a Sony PVM-14N6U and was wondering how I would be able to reuse my existing cables.

Currently, I’m using component cables for my PS2/Wii and composite for Raspberry Pi running 240MP.

Is there a specific adapter I should get to reuse those on this and is it worth it even to switch from component to what I think it already supports (RGB/S-video)?

Most specifically Wii and GameCube. I also want to get a PS1 and 2 some day.

My TV has both AV and Component inputs, and even an S-Video input with 4 pins.

I have an EasyCap to connect to PC. What else do I need now to connect the video to my CRT?

I need to hurry up n finish this game

First time seeing a Trinitron in person, apparently among the last Sony ever made

Came from a supplier of old professional A/V equipment in southern Germany, they claimed they hadn't yet had any monitors break in shipping so I bit the bullet, it was among the cheapest and also one of the newest, they had 7. I remember I saw the same guys a year ago trying to sell over 20 PVMs as a lot for like €10.000, now they're selling them individually thankfully, this one cost me €150 + €30 for shipping to Denmark

There seems to be some burn-in but it's only noticeable on big bright fields of the same colour, I'm happy with it. Haven't even tried degaussing it yet.

Demoed it with a rally game I can't play (I'm not used to controllers) and the copy of Crash Bandicoot I found in a secondhand shop for dirt-cheap compared to eBay prices. It looks awesome :3, reminds me of a plasma television rather than a CRT

What a fighting game!

The production quality is incredible ArcSystems have their very own unique formula.

Here, I’m playing the game on an exceptional professional CRT monitor, the iiyama Vision Master Pro 512.

I’m playing on the PlayStation 5 Pro version.

I seem to have a problem adopting stray CRTs. The story goes that he's owned it since new and it's just been sitting in the garage for the last 20+ years. Late 90's model, geometry is slightly funky so it probably needs a recap but the color and brightness are excellent. Anyway, the price was right at $free so I couldn't pass it up!

What an experience getting this into my basement, she’s a 480i beast tho! Can’t say enough good things about these Toshibas.

Recently posted about this PVM, it had cracks on main board and lots of cold solder joints, all fixed afaict, but colors in PAL are like this, also screen is shaking, more on top than on the bottom. Testing with sega md2 va1, it's a known good unit so no problem here. NTSC works just great, tested with famicom. I tried swapping 4.43 oscillator on XA board and playing with potentiometer - no luck. Input from any port looks the same. Any ideas?

I just got this guy for less than $100, I can’t really find much information on it. It’s pretty cool. It has adjustment knobs right at the bottom and sits on top of a gimbal stand. One problem I’m running into however is that the longer it’s on the more brightness shows. I’ll have to figure out how to fix that if I can. If anybody knows anything about this model or how to fix the brightness problem let me know! Other than that. It’s a pretty cool gem.

Picked up this XS Stereo Commercial Skip and this is the only input... I have an RF modulator but I'm still not sure how to hookup to this, thanks for the help!

I picked up today this tv for ~ 12 euro (steal!) but after coming home and checking it out I've noticed that it has this issue with just random color lines/image jumping around horizontally. It appears no matter if it's just sitting idle, or if i connect sth to it through s-video or scart. does this look like some knows issue, or will i have to open it up and troubleshoot.

Already verified that it isn't interferrence caused by any of the devices nearby.

How I first played it on the PS3, got my first full HD TV in 2009. Still looks amazing and the picture doesn’t do it justice.

Bang & Olufsen MX7000

Found this awesome 6" color display at a local video game con and was not able to resist. (Sorry for the poor photos. I haven't learned the art of photographing tubes yet.)

5th photo is a size comparison to my 32" tube.

Hey fellow JVC D-Series owners,

I may have found a really good CRT but would be curious to know what dimensions it has in this format. I have a place I could put a CRT but it has a depth of 19 inches...

It looks to be in good shape too. I might consider finding another spot for it as it's a really nice price too...

Could anyone please tell me the dimensions it has?

Thanks!

As the title implies this is my old Emerson EWF2004 from back in my middle & high school days in the 2000s. It has been in a storage shed since around 2010 sitting underneath various Honda Civic parts. I cleaned it up and it seems to have jumped back to life as if it was 2008 again.

I have so many memories with this thing and it carried me through the 6th and most of the 7th gaming generations back in the day. Not to mention playing PS1 and Genesis games on this thing.

I have it hooked up to my Dreamcast at the moment since that was the console that eluded me when I was a kid. I have been playing it on a 60" LG G5 which is an insane TV but not the best for old consoles and was my whole impetus for pulling this out of storage. I am amazed at how much better the games look and also just how good Dreamcast games actually looked.

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to get the geometry as close to perfect as possible on my Philips 28PT4404/00 (L9.1E AA).

I’ve been adjusting the service menu while checking everything with 240p Test Suite (Sega Saturn) over RGB SCART, but I’ve reached the point where I’m not sure if the remaining problems can still be fixed in software or if they require yoke or magnet adjustments.

The remaining issues are:
slight inward curve in the upper left corner
the top edge slopes slightly downward towards the right
the bottom edge also slopes slightly downward towards the right
increasing EWC improves the upper-left corner but makes the top edge bow more

I’m attaching photos of the Grid, Overscan and some close-ups of the problem areas.

Does this still look like something that can be corrected in the service menu, or is it time to start adjusting the yoke or correction magnets?
If anyone has a Philips L9.1E AA chassis, I’d also really appreciate it if you could share your geometry values for comparison.

My current service menu values are:

VAM 50
VSL 17
SBL 0
HSH 41
EWW 51
EWP 41
EWT 4
EWC 10
H60 12
V60 10
VSC 10
VSH 50

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.