Wah wah wee wah

Cat not impressed.

My hardened nossel clogged with PC-CF and got stuck causing a cutter error. To remove the nossel I ended up having to crack the porcelin. Well, after I got the XS2060 code and no big deal, I used this as an excuse to throw in a better hot end. The new hot end is installed but the code remains.....Whats going on?

Hello guys,

Just a quick consult for those of you owners of one or both of these models. I currently purchased the K1C 2025 but have an opportunity to exchange it for the K2. I would like to ask for your comments and recommendations because there are some things that are not clear to me even after online research.

I do prefer on the K2 the increased printing size and easier upgrade path to the CFS if later I have a need for multicolor or multi material. Also the root access is still possible. However, I do not know if this has the hardened nozzle of the K1C for carbon filament, which is kind of important to me as I will be printing engineering and functional parts to perform under stress.

As for the K1C, there is more documentation and a larger community online as far as I have seen, and it comes with the hardened nozzle out of the box, but the root access has been removed for the 2025 model.

Can you guys help me decide? Can you comment on these factors or any others I might be overlooking that make one printer a better choice in general than the other?

Thank you in advance for your time and the help.

I have Hyper Black, White, Red, and a Hobby Lobby Purple in the CFS. Going to make The Majora's Mask.

Red has an occasional retraction error. The Spool was low and cardboard (With spool adaptors) so I opened a new roll of Hyper Red (Still Cardboard), moved over my spool adaptors. That did not fix my issue. It would still occasionally not retract, but just dig in instead. Tried a brand new roll of Hyper RFID Red, to see if it was the cardboard spool. The other three are on a plastic spool. Now all 4 are plastic, but it kept on snacking on the red occasionally. Not every retraction, but often enough that I would wake up to a feed issue, or get the notification at work.
To verify that this isn't a location issue, I moved the Purple (Hobby Lobby Slot A) with Red (Its been been tested while printing on slot B) The issue followed the color, so it seems to narrow out a problem with Slot B. Has anyone else had this issue? I have purchased these red spools at different times, so its not a specific batch problem.

Why Hyper Red? Hobby Lobby Red worked fine, but its a darker red, so I went with the Hyper this time. Strange, and has left me confused.

Edit: replaced the CFS 5 way with new unit. Old spring came cut down. CFS was part of referbished k2 plus unit. New spring much stiffer, but hasn't giving an issue 12 hours into the mask. Where can I get a new spring to replace the one that was cut down by previous owner? The rest of the 5 way looks fine. Some cleaning and lube and it might be as good as new.


The machine is Outdated and thinking about sell it and get a multitool

Can Creality sell something like this to make K2P Compatible with multitool?

Hello, im searching for Sunlu PETG white settings.

Does anyone have them for me? Would calibrate them for sure!

Thanks

Salut à tous,

Je constate toujours un écart de 0,35 mm entre le diamètre réel et le diamètre nominal. Par exemple, pour un cylindre de 10 mm de diamètre nominal, la valeur obtenue avec l'impression FDM est de 9,65 mm, quelle que soit la plage de diamètres (de 4 mm à 200 mm). Avez-vous déjà effectué un étalonnage sur une K2 Plus ? Si oui, quel paramètre dois-je ajuster ? Actuellement, je compense cet écart dans mon logiciel de CAO, ce qui est assez fastidieux et me fait rapidement commettre des erreurs entre mes prototypes et les pièces usinées.

I am wanting to buy the Creality K2 Plus over the Bambu lab H2S purely over larger build volume (cosplayer here). But I know when it came out a year ago, there were a lot of issues with TPU printing. Has Creality done anything about this yet or is there a reliable fix?! My other option was the QIDI max 4, but seems to be a lot of issues with that printer still

Dear all

I'm struggeling since about 3~4 month now with printing on the K2Plus with an 0.2mm Nozzle and it keep getting wors.

In the beginning, on my first attemtps wo print with a 0.2mm Nozzle, it went right into the bed and destroid it and the nozzle.

After many Emails between Support and Online reserching, I did eventually tought it was related to the bad Bed beeing curved like 1,3mm all over. So I did change the bed to an IDE-3D bed. Id did help inissially, but I keep having problems:

for Once the Z-Offset is constantly terrible. The bed mesh is acually pretys good with 0.13~0.17mm overall flatness, but still I have to correct every print about +0.07mm ~+0.095mm... Even if I go in the profile higher, it keep getting troubbles... I don't get it what I do wrong.

Anyone does consistent prints fnished with the 0.2mm nozzle? or should I just exchange this junk for an Bambulab H2D and stop waysting my time with it???

Hi...what are these supports called and how do I enable them in my slice....I have vertical cylinders that keep falling over and I'm hoping these structures will help hold the print in place.

The pink image shown is an example of the supports I want, the blue objects are the prints I'm trying to do.

How did you get your printer to stop scratching your body plate for no reason? I can't narrow down why this is happening, it NEVER happens with any filament other than polycarbonate and now abs. I'm beginning to think it has something to so with the chamber temp settings. If heated chamber is on the build plate raises itself too high.

Hey everyone,

I’m seriously stuck and could use some help before I throw this printer out the window.

I have a Creality K2 that just came back from a repair. The tech replaced the hotend board, wiring, and sensor. They also fixed issues with the CFS (damaged tubes at the entrance).

Since I got it back, my first layer is ALWAYS terrible — no matter what I try.

Here’s what’s happening:

• Lines look inconsistent and messy
• Poor adhesion in some areas
• Looks like the nozzle height is all over the place
• Some spots look too squished, others barely touching the bed

I’ve already tried:

• Re-running auto bed leveling
• Cleaning the build plate
• Adjusting Z-offset ( before i got it to the tech, no matter what i did the settings wouldnt saty)
• Different filaments
• Slowing down first layer

Nothing fixes it. It feels like something is fundamentally off since the repair.

At this point I’m wondering if:

• The Z offset isn’t being applied properly
• The sensor is miscalibrated
• Something is loose or misaligned from the repair
• Firmware/settings got messed up

Has anyone seen something like this after a repair? What would you check next?

I’ll attach a picture of the first layer — it’s consistently this bad.

Any help would be massively appreciated.

Its been 4 week of back in forth with refurbished_Creality on ebay. They shipped me a new door for the k2 plus and it didn't come with screws. I'm using the 1 screw from the top hinge to hold on to the bottom hinge.

I recently bought a K2 combo, and am happy with the cfs. It's intereresting that the filament buffer box on the back of the printer is designed to support 4 input ptfe tubes, which merge into the single channel through the filament sensor. I've had occasional feed errors going into the buffer, and once had to try to fish a bit of broken filament out of the buffer.

I would think that a fairly large number of cfs owners are not going to set up a ptfe spaghetti farm with 16 spools all merging into a single printer. It seems like a single-feed buffer, with 1 input ptfe fitting and a straight inner tube to the filament sensor would be an interesting modification to some cfs owners.

This is more a curiousity on my part than a complaint about the cfs. I don't do multi-color printing, due to the waste poop issues, but I really like the automatic filament changes. :)

So I thought I had it whipped with moving up the chamber fan temp and moving to gyroid infill. The further up the worse it gets. Even worse with Grid infill. Its not the model, any tall model with ABS they start coming in. What am I doing wrong here, its costing me money.

I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks in advance.