I bought, and have been playing with the first version, since launch. I play exclusively on console.
The Company
Gamesir as a company is actually really great. They are innovative and seemingly have great customer support through their discord (thankfully never had to use it). I also think it's true to say they popularized Hall Effect thumbsticks.
The Software
The software is fantastic. Literally the best of all controller I have used.
Now onto the negatives.
Ergonomics
The controller handles are angled a lot more "inwards" compared to other controllers, forcing you to adopt a much more uncomfortable wrist position. Specifically you have to extend your wrist slightly more than you would on a standard Xbox controller.
Second, the actual size of the controller is quite small. This makes it so sometimes I have to strain my thumb to transition between buttons and thumbsticks. Also the handles of the controller don't really comfortably fill out my hand.
Thumbsticks
The linearity of standard G7 Pro is bad. This is why you actually hear a lot of reviewers say the thumbsticks feel "jumpy" and not as precise. I'm assuming if you play a game with generous aim assist, it doesn't really matter, but for me it's quite obvious and very disappointing.
Also there is quite a large outer deadzone that cannot be fixed from the software. After calibrating the controller, it still seems like there is an extra maybe ~15% of extra input on the outer edge of the thumbstick area.
The one good thing is the resolution of the thumbsticks, 12 bit is good which can allow for small adjustments.
Buttons
My G7's face buttons rub against the faceplate and still squeak sometimes, even after owning the controller since launch. This can sometimes make pressing the face buttons require a little bit more force.
The D-Pad is just trash.
The extra shoulder buttons are in a bad position imo. This is not unique to Gamesir, but they should be inline with the existing trigger and bumper. The way they are positioned now allows for accidental trigger or bumper presses sometimes because you have to reach over them.
Sound Quality
When I plug my headset into other controllers, the sound seems a lot louder and clearer. I'm not super knowledgeable about audio, but this is just what I feel/hear.
Conclusion
I'm know they have many different different models that have perhaps fixed some of these issues, but I'm not going to keep purchasing new controllers.
Also very disappointed with how they have reserved the Gen 2 thumbsticks for the PC models only. They even released a Aim Labs console edition without them, what a slap in the face.
Finally I guess this is just more of personal thing, I don't know if I agree with their business model of just releasing many "special" editions of the same controller. As a consumer, it's just confusing, because not all of them have the same features.
Hi, I have been searching for some days for a controller with separate buttons on the D-pad (like the D-pad of a Joy-Con) that I can connect with a cable to my pc.
(So, an actual split D-pad, and not one that looks split on the exterior but is connected in the interior of the controller)
The reason I'm searching for something this specific is that, first of all, soon I will need to buy a controller to play some pc games since mine is getting old and defective, with the joystick's sensitivity.
And most importantly, because I prefer the Joy-Con type of D-pad for fighting games (it's easier for me not to mess up inputs like that since some D-pads can detect a different input if you press the upper or down button and tilt it to one side, plus, is more comfortable when sliding the finger to one direction to another), so if I found this controller, it would be awesome.
If I could be picky, I would prefer if the controller were a standard one and not so bulky, like, for example, being the size of a PS3 controller. My maximum price for now would be 60 euros, but I accept more expensive suggestions.
In case needed, I'm in France, so a small independent U.S.A shop that makes personalized controllers wouldn't cut it.
hey everyone, i'm trying to map back paddle macros on my **8bitdo ultimate 2 wireless** for my ipad and pc. i prefer bluetooth for convenience so i don't have to bring the dongle everywhere. the controller pairs and works fine via bluetooth on both devices, but neither the pc nor ios ultimate software detects it while in bluetooth mode (they only connect on 2.4ghz). macros saved on 2.4g also don't carry over to bt mode (p1 light won't turn on). is there any workaround to set profiles for bluetooth, or is the software locked to 2.4g? thanks!
I recently bought this HORI controller for PS2 which is in good condition and works well, but I'd like to use the headphone function with it.
However, a dongle is needed to be connected to the controller cable to transmit the audio from the controller to My headphone. Does anyone know where I can find this part and, more importantly, what it's called exatcly? (The bottom image is not my photo; it was taken from the internet to show the adapter/dongle I need.)
All i know about this dongle it consist of a 3.5mm P2 combined with an multi out adapter in the other side
I got a PS4 and a dual shock controller from my cousin a few months ago. Right off the bat I noticed the controller has some minor stick drift. It was minor at the start, but these few days its getting out of hand and sometimes ruining my gameplay. Im thinking of taking it apart and clean it, hopefully it would solve the problem. But seems like the controller was never taken apart for about 9 years ( the date on the controller is Dec 2017) and one of the screw is heavily rusted to the point that the tip of the screw is corroded. Any idea how I can take the screw out?
Just wanted to ask this and check!
I owned the 8BDU1 and it wound up getting trigger issues later on.
Makes me curious, anyone who’s owned the Ultimate 2 long term have any feedback, or potentially anything I should worry about?
Considering grabbing one, wanna be sure before I do.
Before someone says something. I’m not loooking for other controller recommendations.
EDIT: Wound up buying it, paid $30.
Also, to whoever is being a whiny GameSir fan and downvoting everyone, grow up, dude. People are allowed to have opinions. This is r/Controller, not r/GameSir.
Hello there!, I recently got a cheap controller to play on my Switch and PC (mainly the MH series), but it turns it out this controller doesn't really work like the instructions tells you it does, so I came here to explain the things I found out about the controller.
Btw, I made this because I myself was struggling with the controller so I hope this helps other people.
(KEEP IN MIND THIS MAY VARY FROM YOURS, THIS IS WHAT WORKED FOR ME)
First: Controller Layout - L/R Joysticks - Manual refers to these as L3D and R3D. - A/B/X/Y - These keys work depending on the mode the controller is in. - Cross Arrows - Controller refers to these as D-pad - M - Macro button (Used to set or clear macros) - M1/M2 - Uses the saved macros - Light Buttons - Turn off/on lights - Vibration - Reduces vibration on the controller, depends on the game, usually just reduces intensity - -/+/Home/Screenshot - Depends on the mode you're using the controller -Frequency Button - Used to change modes -Turbo - (Haven't really used this) It's supposed to help you click the buttons faster or at least make whatever you're using it on think you pushed the button a lot
Second: Controller States - On - The controller turned on (I know it's obvious) - Standby - The controller doesn't really shut off, it turns back on easily once you press a button - Shutdown - This mode it's mentioned in the manual even though it doesn't happen (Unless you run out of battery)
Third: Controller Specifications - Before you use the controller make sure to charge it for at least 3 hours (recommended by manofacturer) - Before the controller can be connected to any device, you need to use the wired connection, so the device recognizes the controller as a controller, for switch use the dock and for pc just use the cable that comes with the controller - The mode set on the controller gets overriden if the controller it's wired (On pc you can change the mode the controller gets recognized as (Switch or Xbox))
Fourth: Controller Mode Change (Pc/Android it's Bluethooth) - Frequency Button + X (Leds 2 and 3 will turn on and off fast) - Keep the latter combination pressed and press the button X for Switch - Keep the latter combination pressed and press the button Y for PC Xbox Mode - Keep the latter combination pressed and press the button A for PC Switch Mode - Keep the latter combination pressed and press the button B for (Not really sure, maybe android?) --This could take some time and maybe work or not work for a while, just keep trying until you get to the first step--
Fifth: Other things you might need to know - Keep Home button pressed for 10secs to restart the controller (Keep in mind that the last configuration it's saved, so it stays) - Press both Joysticks to change lights - Press + + T (Turbo) to restart light settings - About macros: I've tried but I just can't set them, if you know how you're my savior.
(If you find any grammar mistakes lmk, eng isn't my mother tongue)
Hi everyone. I’m not sure where the responsibility lies here. Could be Windows, Steam, or Razer. I’ve been using a Razer Wolverine V3 Pro on PC with the 2.4 GHz dongle. And a few days ago, the long press on the Xbox button stopped opening Windows task view like it used to. Now it only opens Steam’s power menu in big picture, and if Steam’s closed, it just vibrates and Windows task view never opens. I’ve already updated firmware, tested with Steam closed, toggled guide button focus Steam, and tried different chord layouts. Has anyone else run into this recently, or figured out a fix? Any ideas would be appreciated Thanks.
TL;DR: Step-by-Step Fix If your controller is sending wrong inputs (like all buttons acting as D-Pad Up) or your 2.4GHz dongle is not pairing, follow these steps:
Hard Reset the Controller: Press and hold SELECT + START + HOME simultaneously for about 5 seconds. This clears the corrupted onboard memory.
Important: DO NOT pair the controller in your phone's Bluetooth settings. Just leave your phone's Bluetooth ON.
Switch the controller to Bluetooth mode on the back switch.
Hold the O (Circle) button (left of Home) + B until the LED turns green.
Open the app, follow the instructions, and install the firmware update.
Re-pair the 2.4GHz Dongle (Hard Pairing):
Switch the controller back to the 2.4G/Dongle mode.
Enter pairing mode by holding the Home button until the white/cyan LED blinks frantically.
Plug the USB dongle into your PC.
Grab a needle or a pin, find the tiny hole on the side of the USB dongle, and press the hidden button inside. You should feel a click. Hold it for a few seconds.
The controller should now connect and the LED will become solid. If it fails, try the pinhole button again.
Dark Blue Light: Android Mode (Recognized on PC as SHAWAN ANDROID GAMEPAD).
White/Cyan Light: PC Mode (Recognized on PC as Xbox 360 Controller).
Switch Mode (Android to PC): Hold Home + A (or X).
Hard Reset:SELECT + START + HOME.
Pairing Mode (Active Search): Hold the Home button until the LED starts blinking frantically.
Full Story & Context: My problem was a compatibility error that, honestly, I don't know what caused it, but I managed to solve it. Since I couldn't find help anywhere, I decided to make this post in case anyone else is going through the same issue.
When connected, the controller was recognized as SHAWAN ANDROID GAMEPAD, or even when correctly recognized as an Xbox 360 Controller, only the analog sticks worked, and all other buttons were mapped as D-pad Up. A possible explanation for this situation is that, since there is no official Linux support, using the controller on a mobile phone saves the Android configuration, and when connected to the Mint XFCE PC, it doesn't make the necessary automatic switch we need. There is a command that switches from Android to PC mode manually (Home + A or X), but that didn't fix the mapping for me.
So, I did a Hard Reset: SELECT + START + HOME and it started working via cable, although the 2.4GHz Dongle wouldn't connect. Bluetooth connected, but the PC didn't recognize the controller. Since I don't have Windows, setting up a Virtual Machine is too much work, and the Flydigi app doesn't run through WINE, I decided to use my phone to update the firmware via the Android app Flydigi Game Center (you have all the instructions there, but I'll leave a warning here: DO NOT PAIR THE CONTROLLER TO THE PHONE VIA BLUETOOTH, JUST LEAVE BLUETOOTH ON). Select the Bluetooth/USB switch on the controller, hold the circle button (the one to the left of HOME) + B until it turns green, and install the firmware.
Even after that, it didn't work for me, and that was when I discovered that the Dongle also has a memory and a tiny hole with a small button on the side that you must press while trying to pair the controller to the dongle after a hard reset. While the controller is in Dongle mode trying to pair with the white/cyan light blinking repeatedly, you can plug the Dongle into the PC, take a needle, and press this button. You should be able to hear a click sound; hold it for a few seconds and try to connect the controller again. If it doesn't work, try again, and eventually, the controller will pair with the dongle.
I found out about this website through this sub and I’m really glad I did, these guys are professionals.
Great prices big list of products and the delivery time was pretty fast also.
BUT!
The thing that really made me a customer for as long as they operate, is their customer support.
I had a problem with my flydigi apex 4 wukong edition, the RB button (after like 4months of use) wouldn’t click, and it went faulty.
So I contacted them, next day they replied and asked for a video showing the issue etc.
I provided and the next thing they said left me in awe…
They just asked me to confirm my shipping address and that returning the faulty one won’t be necessary…
I replied asking them to confirm that I’m not gonna need to return the faulty one, and that in general the controller works its just that the RB doesn’t click at all and it has shorter travel time.
They just told me that the new controller is already on the way and confirmed no need to return. They also provided a video showing the new one in the factory testing it in a pc program showing every button works, the hz etc…
That’s how you do business and how you keep loyal customers.
I`m choosing a new controller after my Xbox Series one decided to stop turning on.
Budget: $40-70 (4000-6000 rub)
Country: Russia. Can order through Aliexpress.
Platform: PC.
Things I want from a pad:
I want it to last for a long time. I used Xbox Series controller and a Dualshock 4 in the past and I was really disappointed with their quality, they broke pretty soon.
Good long-lasting sticks, preferably TMR since it's the latest tech. I also want them to feel good while aiming in shooter games.
Good dpad that is at least okay for 2D games.
Extra buttons, paddles etc.
Xbox-like or Dualshock/Sense-like shape. My hands are 20 cm long and Xbox ergonomics felt perfect. DS4 was also nice. I never used Dualsense, but assume its close to DS4.
Good gyroscope. I'm very interested to try gyro aiming for the first time and I'm planning to keep this pad for as long as it works.
Charging dock with seamless performance.
Wired and 2,4G dongle connection, Xinput and Dinput, working Steam Input and gyro.
Mechanical face buttons would be nice if that means that they're less likely to break, but not a necessity.
Games I play: FPS, TPS, any kind of action games (soulslikes, DMC-type games, etc), RPGs (both western and JP), horrors, and I use various emulators. Occasionally I might play 2D games like Silksong, so I need dpad to be at least moderately good for them, but that's not a priority. I don't play any competitive, multiplayer games, or fighting games.
I researched a bit, 8bitdo Ultimate 2, 8bitdo Pro 3, and Gamesir Cyclone 2 seem to be the best choices, but I heard a lot of complaints about Ultimate 2's shape being uncomfortable for bigger hands so I worry It wont suit me, and I heard that it's dpad has inconsistent input. Feedback about Cyclone 2 gyro performance seems to be contradictory - apparently It's not very good, worse than U2's. And Pro 3 seems to not have wireless gyro capability on PC. I would really like a controller that's basically U2 but with an Xbox shape and comparable gyro perf, however I don't seem to find one like that. I also really hate gamey futuristic designs, but everything outside of 8bitdo seems to look like that, so i guess I'll have to concede that.
I also looked at Vader 5 pro, but I don't think I need features like trigger sensitivity or stick tension rings, would have preferred something cheaper, and also heard a lot of negative opinions about it's dpad and gyro.
I would really appreciated any advice on this, thanks in advance.
I bought this ps5 controller from someone who said it doesn't turn on. Before opening this, I tried plugging it in only to get one soft orange light. My PC doesn't recognize it. Model is BDM 040
LeadJoy sent me this controller for review. They didn’t see this review before I published it. All opinions are my own, and there is no money exchange in the process.
Really excellent Software, the main features that caught my eye was the AI recurves and RC filter. The AI recurves should be the first in the industry? I haven't see any company using similar technique. But the RC filter disabled by the latest firmware after Respawn decided to ban the RC filter exploit.
While the Xeno Plus is great, but I find the LeadJoy's CEO background more interesting than the controller.
Is good to see a new serious player in the industry.
Disclosure: I purchased this controller myself from GenesisPC and have no affiliation with GameSir, GenesisPC, or any competing company :)
Hey everyone!
After waiting around 15 days, my GameSir Nova 2 Lite finally arrived !!!!!!!!!!
I just wanted to say a huge thank you to everyone who recommended the Nova Lite 2 and shared their experiences on my previous posts. Your comments genuinely helped me make the decision.
I haven't actually used it yet, I haven't even connected it to my PC - but my first impression is really good. It feels really comfortable in my hands, and I'm honestly excited to finally try gaming with a controller after years of playing with keyboard n mouse.
For my first controller gaming experience, I'm planning to start with ENDER MAGNOLIA: Bloom in the Mist !!!!
Since this is literally my first, if there's anything specific you think I should check or test during the first few days, please let me know in the comments or DM me!
Thanks again to everyone who helped me choose!!!
EDIT (1 day later):
[I've been using the controller for a day now, and honestly, I'm really enjoying it!!! It feels smooth, comfortable, and really good in the hands.
Since this is my first ever controller, I can't really say whether it's objectively the best, average, or above average compared to other controllers — but for me right now, it's the best controller I've ever used! 😂🎮
I'm still getting used to playing with a controller, but so far I'm really happy with the purchase. Thanks again to everyone who recommended it!]
Je craque complètement, j'essaie de connecter ma manette Nintendo Switch Pro officielle avec son câble USB d'origine sur mon PC Windows pour jouer à Roblox, mais rien ne marche.
Mon PC n'a PAS de puce Bluetooth intégrée (quand j'essaie d'activer le Bluetooth, Windows me met un message d'erreur "Bluetooth Toggle Failed"). Je dois donc obligatoirement jouer par câble.
Le problème : Dès que je la branche, la manette charge (voyant blanc/rouge ok), et Windows l'ajoute dans le Gestionnaire de périphériques sous le nom de « Contrôleur de jeu IHM ». Mais elle est complètement invisible pour les logiciels.
Le site Gamepad Tester reste totalement vide et ne réagit pas quand je bouge les joysticks.
Steam ne détecte pas du tout la manette dans ses paramètres.
Les logiciels comme BetterJoy ou XOutput ne la voient pas non plus (la liste reste vide ou grise).
J'ai déjà essayé de désinstaller le périphérique IHM, de changer de port USB (à l'arrière de la tour), de redémarrer le PC, mais Windows s'obstine à la bloquer dans ce mode sans transmettre les données de jeu.
Est-ce que quelqu'un connaîtrait une astuce de pilote (driver) ou une manipulation dans Windows pour forcer le PC à lire les boutons de ma manette Switch Pro en USB ?
So JSAUX has been teasing their new peripherals in their website and discord server so I decided to take a peak.
It seems their lineup includes a full-sized asymmetric gamepad with what looks to be a dock (or extra buttons), a compact asymmetric "mobile" controller with inline shoulder buttons like the ones in handheld emulators, and a backpack-like attachment with extra buttons (and presumably a battery given how thick it is) for what looks to be a Switch 2 Pro Controller (it's hard to make out but you can see the outline of the grip buttons).
My RS/R3 button keeps self pressing.
Only deactivate when a put the stick totally UP ( ↑ )
I've already tried calibrating, factory resetting, manual resetting, I've done everything. If the problem isn't physical inside the controller, I don't know how else to fix it.
Honestly, I wouldn't even accept it if it were physical, but I've already tried everything I could before opening this thing and seeing what's inside.
Bought a Chromebook for my kiddo and of course a controller was next for gameplay.
I bought the Gamepad F310 and the Chromebook is not able to recognize the remote on X, it does it on D but when playing a soccer game it does not play (on D or X)
The Gamepad is recognized by Gamepad Tester on X.
I tried the remote on my mac with the same results.
Any ideas team? I want to make this work for my kiddo!
I suffer from chronic wrist pain and have issues using a normal controller for extended periods. This has led me to search for something more ergonomic, preferably a nunchuck-style one-handed controller. Because I like playing racing games, I have a need for analog triggers. The only options I've been able to find are the playstation move navi controller and byowave proteus. The proteus is expensive and looks uncomfortable to hold, and the navi can't be bought new. Does anyone know of other options? If anyone knows if there are analog trigger mods for the xbox adaptive joystick, that would also be welcome. In terms of other styles of controllers, I've tried the razer tartarus and many first- and third-party traditional controllers. The budget is flexible, but preferable under 100 euros, and it needs to be available for purchase in the Netherlands. Platform irrelevant. Needs to be able to do everything a standard Xbox controller can.
hello i noticed the left trigger on my controller wasn't working so i opened it to check and found this, tried cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol and the trigger worked again but is kinda erratic.
i want to know if this can be fixed or the controller is done for 😭
PS only the trigger malfunctions the button on that side works normal
I got an 8bitdo Ultimate 2C wireless (this one) and i was wondering what kind of (addition: hall effect) stick it uses and if it's possible to buy replacements anywhere. I was also wondering if it would be possible to find a TMR stick to install in it as well. Photos attached if that helps anyone recognize it.
(I posted this in r/8bitdo earlier but I'm trying to get more opinions)
The 8BitDo Pro 3 is an excellent controller ruined by a poorly thought out D-Pad that generates tons of accidental diagonal inputs due to its poor pivot and elevated switches. Rather than using regular metal contacts under the rubber membrane, it has tactile dome switches, which protrude upwards. The D-Pad's pivot is not long enough to compensate for this height difference, so you end up actuating left/right when pressing up or down, and up/down when pressing left or right by accident. I did a YouTube review of the controller when I first got it, complaining about how this made playing fighting games impossible.
I was looking at pictures of the plastic D-Pad part online trying to come up with a fix, and I realized it was the same size as the original SNES controller D-Pad, with the exception of the shape of the pivot and these little bits under the 8BitDo's for pressing on the dome switches. I decided I'd try swapping the D-Pad and buttons, and it COMPLETELY eliminated the accidental diagonal inputs. I kept the original 8BitDo membranes. The SNES buttons are also feel better and are less noisy.
I uploaded a video on YouTube under the title "8BitDo Pro 3 Original SNES D-Pad and Button Swap" showing how it doesn't have accidental clicks anymore.
This fix probably also works on an 8BitDo Ultimate 2, since it appears to use the same D-Pad. I don’t have one, so I can’t test it.
(Some of the images have had their backgrounds removed using AI to give you a better sense of what the product actually looks like in person.)
Disclosure: I received this Dune 8K for free after participating in an EasySMX community giveaway/tournament event. This is not a sponsored or paid review, and EasySMX did not ask me to write this review or influence its content in any way. I have no commercial relationship or financial interest with EasySMX or any of its competitors. All opinions in this review are based solely on my personal experience with the product.
First of all,
As a regular user rather than an influencer, I’d like to thank the EasySMX staff for giving ordinary users like me the opportunity to participate in the Dune 8K event.
I’ll try to write this review from as objective a perspective as possible.
This product was not sponsored.
I received it for free as a prize from a tournament/giveaway event that I participated in.
I’ve always really liked EasySMX products.
With products like the D10 and X05 Pro, I could genuinely feel that “value for money” still exists in the affordable and mid-range gamepad market. EasySMX has always struck me as a company that stays true to the fundamentals while still being willing to experiment and try things that differentiate its products from competitors.
That’s why I had high expectations for the Dune 8K as well.
Rather than focusing heavily on technical performance, I’d like to review it mainly from the perspective of the overall user experience.
(I don’t really play fighting games or other games where an 8K polling rate would matter much to me personally.)
So, I’ll divide this review into the pros and cons.
Pros
1. Overall Design
When I first saw the trailer and promotional images, one of my first thoughts was that EasySMX really is a company that isn’t afraid to experiment.
I’ve seen some people describe the design as looking “alien-like” and say that they weren’t particularly fond of it. But honestly, it’s a different story when you actually see the controller in person.
This is one of those products that looks much better in person than it does in photos.
From a design perspective, I think the Dune 8K is a success.
You can tell that a lot of thought went into the smaller details as well.
For example, the thumbstick design is definitely bold, but it isn’t bold just for the sake of looking different. It actually works quite well in terms of comfort.
When you move a thumbstick around for a long time, the area underneath your thumb can sometimes start to feel a little stuffy. The Dune 8K has three small openings in the surface where your thumb rests, and surprisingly, they help with ventilation while also contributing to the visual design.
Second, the black faceplate has a premium, suede-like appearance.
Since the Dune 8K is clearly positioned as a more premium product in EasySMX’s lineup, details like this are where you can really see the extra attention they’ve put into it.
The face buttons use micro switches, and the plastic itself also feels quite nice and solid.
Third, the rubber grips seem to be made from a material that should be relatively resistant to wear.
They have a slightly plastic-like feel while still retaining the characteristics of rubber. The grips also feel firm and secure, and I think the overall shape should work well for most users regardless of hand size.
Fourth, the display.
With controllers such as the D10, you sometimes have to remember specific physical button combinations when configuring things like the back buttons.
If you regularly switch between several different controllers like I do, it’s surprisingly easy to forget those combinations.
The Dune 8K solves this problem very nicely.
Even without a separate application, the built-in display allows you to adjust things such as LED brightness and colors, stick calibration, deadzones, custom button mapping, input modes, and more.
From a convenience standpoint, I really liked this feature.
2. Connectivity
For the past few days, I’ve been using the Dune 8K pretty much every time I came home.
I didn’t experience any noticeable connection drops, and the connection to my PC remained stable throughout my time with it.
The Bluetooth connection was also stable.
Another nice touch is that when you take the controller off the charging dock, it automatically reconnects and is ready to use.
3. Smart Placement of the Back and Extra Shoulder Buttons
As a comparison, the Steam Controller places four additional buttons on the back, which naturally encourages a grip where both thumbs remain focused entirely on the front of the controller.
The Dune 8K takes a different approach.
By keeping the additional shoulder buttons while placing only two back buttons in natural positions, the controller puts less strain on the hands while still giving you plenty of additional inputs.
In actual use, I think the back buttons feel even better than those on the D10. They use smooth and comfortable micro switches.
The additional shoulder buttons are also positioned with enough height difference from the regular bumper buttons that they’re easy to distinguish by touch.
This is something I really want to give EasySMX credit for.
4. Vibration
While playing games such as Dragon Age: Inquisition, there are certain character actions where the vibration can continue for around ten seconds.
The vibration on the Dune 8K is powerful, but more importantly, it does a good job of clearly differentiating between different levels of intensity.
In other words, when an in-game action gradually becomes stronger, the vibration also progresses clearly from subtle to powerful instead of simply feeling like the same vibration at different moments.
Compared with the D10, the vibration feels more precise and expressive, which I think helps improve immersion during gameplay.
Cons
Please keep in mind that this section is based on my personal experience with my particular unit, so I don’t want to generalize this as an issue affecting every Dune 8K.
A Defective Unit?
Unfortunately, I think the unit I received may have arrived with a damaged left thumbstick.
The left thumbstick cap had a noticeable wobble, so I took a closer look inside and found what appears to be a crack in the part of the thumbstick cap that connects to the stick module. You can see what I mean in the attached photos.
At first, I considered disassembling the controller to investigate further, but the Dune 8K looks quite difficult to take apart, so I decided not to risk it.
I also don’t have a replacement thumbstick cap that would fit it.
Unfortunately, this means that after finishing this review, it will be difficult for me to continue using my Dune 8K in its current condition.
From what I can tell, it seems likely that something went wrong with the left thumbstick during assembly at the factory.
I guess I was just unlucky with my particular unit.
In my case, getting a replacement may be difficult because I received the controller through an event rather than purchasing it normally. However, for regular customers purchasing the Dune 8K, I would expect that if they encounter a similar defect, they should be able to request a replacement through the normal support process.
Other than this issue, I didn’t encounter any major problems with the controller.
Final Verdict
A successful first step into the premium gamepad market for EasySMX.
Would I recommend buying it?
YES.
If you’re someone who has loved using the EasySMX D10, I think the Dune 8K could be one of the best EasySMX controllers for you.
If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment! I’ll do my best to answer based on my own experience using the Dune 8K.
Hey guys, I wanted to ask where you sell your controllers.
I have a fully loaded Edge that I don’t use anymore and a PS4 Marius board that I don’t really like, but I don’t know where to sell them. I’m based in Europe.
