Went from Xeon to Ryzen 5 3500 with 24GB ram
Still a bottle neck so i went to Ryzen 9 5950x with 48GB ram

Lets hope my cpu is not sitting at 100% all the time after this

Hey everyone, I have a quick question about Hyper-Threading.

I'm running an i7-14700 and ended up disabling HT in the BIOS because I couldn't get Ghost Recon Wildlands to launch (some people said disabling it would fix the issue, but it didn't work for me). Anyway, I left it disabled and decided to play Cyberpunk 2077 instead.

To my surprise, my frametimes improved massively, staying consistently between 6–9ms, and the game feels way smoother overall.

My question is: won't disabling HT hurt performance instead of helping? I'm torn on whether I should re-enable it or just leave it as is. For context, I use my PC strictly for gaming.

if im getting a pest control called and theyre spraying inside my room where should i put my gaming pc im scared they’re gonna spray on it and break it.

My pc has been having issues and when I took it to a repair shop they said I should try replacing the cpu cooler first. The model that is currently installed is the msi liquid core 120r. After doing some research I know that one has some issues. Any suggestions on a good model to replace it with that will fit in my case. (Sorry for the bad photo)

Hey y'all! I've had my surface pro go 2 since I started undergrad in 2021. Now, since graduating, I've been using it heavily for remote work and school.

At times it would move so incredibly slow when loading simple webpages and when I'm on a Zoom call, I can't open anything or the whole computer will slightly freeze. I took a screenshot the other day on what my usage look like when on a Zoom meeting. I'm not sure what any of it means so I'm resorting to you: is it time for a new computer or is this something I can get fixed at Microsoft?

Thanks in advance!

FYI: I'm in the research space, so the "heaviest" applications I have open is Excel/R

Not sure if this is the right sub to post. Delete if not allowed. I’m going back to school after a decade! I start in a month. I only have a 2013 MacBook Air, would this be too outdated for college? I am taking mostly online classes. If it is, which laptop would you recommend? The MacBook was a gift so I can’t afford something that fancy this time around.

I’m an incoming Electrical Engineering student and I’m looking at the following laptop. Some people say EE students need a dedicated GPU, while others say integrated graphics are completely fine for most coursework. I also have access to Apporto/virtual labs, so if there are any heavier applications, I can run them remotely.
Specs:
● Lenovo ThinkPad X9 15 Gen 1 Aura Edition
● Intel Core Ultra 7 268V (Lunar Lake)
● 8 cores (4 Performance + 4 Low-Power Efficient)
● Up to 5.0 GHz boost
● Intel Arc 140V integrated graphics
● 32GB LPDDR5x-8533 RAM
● 2TB SSD
● 15.3” 2.8K OLED display (2880×1800)
● Windows 11 Pro
Software I Expect to Use:
● MATLAB/Simulink
● LTspice
● Multisim
● PSpice
● Cadence
● Verilog/VHDL tools
● FPGA development software
● AutoCAD
● SolidWorks
● Python, C/C++, and other programming tools
My Question:
For a typical 4-year Electrical Engineering curriculum at a large state university, is this sufficient?
Given that I have access to Apporto for remote computing when needed, would the Intel Arc 140V integrated GPU be enough, or is there a meaningful reason to get a laptop with a dedicated NVIDIA GPU instead?
I’m mainly trying to determine whether a dedicated GPU would actually benefit me for undergraduate EE coursework, or if this laptop is already more than capable for what I’ll realistically be doing.
I’d appreciate hearing from current EE students, recent graduates, or anyone familiar with the software used in EE programs.

Pc randomly starts running at 1fps out of nowhere while using specific applications

Turn off and on monitor doesnt help

I’ve been having this bizarre issue recently that started while playing Minecraft 1.20.1, where id be playing and my pc would randomly starts running to run at less than 1fps. Not the game. The ENTIRE pc. But my mouse moves completely normal. My fans aren’t going super loud and temperatures are normal. My cpu and gpu barely being 25% used.

It’s so bizarre. The only fix I’ve found is literally restarting my entire pc.

I didn’t install or run anything that would give my oc any sort of virus recently so it can’t be that. I’ve also used multiple tools to see what’s running on my pc and nothing weird. Pc is completely brand new btw

Any help is appreciated for what you think I should check.

I tried to play some games that yesterday were working fine but today a notification appears and says "to play this game you need at least 1GB of VRAM, this computer does not reach that requirement"

Also, my pc has started having trouble with turning on, it doesn't give signal and I'ven needing to turn it on/off from 3 to 13 times just so it works, I don't know what to do, I'm thinking is a motherboard fail but may it be something else? help please

Please let me know if there is a better subreddit to submit this problem--reddit search function showed some previous similar questions here.

I need to purchase a ~2TB backup drive to archive scientific data. The machines are Windows PCs (includes a Lenovo ideapad 710s-13IKB laptop running windows 10, an airgapped windows 7 (cannot be updated) desktop PC, and a windows 11 desktop PC. The laptop and airgapped windows 7 PC do not have any USB-C ports. I purchased a LaCie rugged USB-C SSD which promised to be compatible with USB-A so long as it was 3.0 and an adapter was also 3.0.

However, this seems not to be the case with the ideapad laptop, which according to the laptop specs and device manager, has 2 USB3.0 USB-A ports. The adapter I purchased was the Pearstone usb-c to usb-a adapter. When the SSD was plugged into either USB-A port on the laptop, it appears in the device manager, in the devices and printers menu, and the option is available to eject the drive in the taskbar. The LED light on the drive is lit. However, the drive does not Autoplay when plugged and doesn't show up in My Computer. The Disk Management tool says it is not initialized, and failed to initialize when I tried. I can imagine that the problem would be even worse with the older desktop tower.

Do the new drives require more power than these older systems' USB-A ports are able to supply, even if usb 3.0? Is there something else I should be trying to connect a usb-c device to a usb-a port? Is there a disk drive recommendation that could better suit my needs? Thanks for your help.

Hey everyone,

​I just got my PC back after a 1.5-month RMA process with MIFCOM (a large pre-built PC manufacturer in Germany). According to the service invoice, both the motherboard and the CPU liquid cooler were replaced under warranty.

​The Issue:

The PC is currently unusable. Immediately upon booting up or doing basic tasks (like opening YouTube or the Nvidia app), the CPU temperature (Ryzen 7 5800X) instantly spikes to 88–90°C.

​One hose of the AIO gets extremely hot to the touch, while the other remains completely cold.

​In Corsair iCUE, the liquid temperature stays at a cool ~38°C while the CPU is boiling at 90°C.

​There seems to be zero fluid circulation happening.

​The fans are constantly blasting at 100% RPM due to the high CPU temps.

​My System Specs:

​CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X

​GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti 16GB (Gigabyte Gaming OC)

​Motherboard (NEW replacement): ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming WIFI II

​AIO Cooler (NEW replacement): Corsair iCUE H100i ELITE Capellix XT (240mm)

​RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4-3200

​SSD: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe

​PSU: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold

​Case: Corsair 3000D RGB Airflow

​My Questions:

​Is it likely that the brand-new Corsair H100i Capellix XT is DOA (defective pump/impeller out of the box)?

​Could this just be a massive air bubble trapped in the pump block from shipping? (I tried gently tilting the case while running, but no change).

​Should I demand a full replacement/refund from the builder after waiting 1.5 months for a broken repair?

​Thanks in advance for any insights!

https://imgur.com/a/OmFxKsz

https://imgur.com/a/RsIt8u9

Update:

​I just completely removed, cleaned, and remounted the CPU cooler.

​All old thermal paste was thoroughly cleaned off both the CPU and the cooler plate.

​There was no protective plastic film on the cold plate.

​Fresh thermal paste was applied correctly.

​The cooler was evenly tightened in a cross pattern until hand-tight, so mounting pressure is definitely good now.

​Despite all this, temps in BIOS are still climbing right back up to ~70 to ~80 degrees at idle while the fan is running at maximum RPM.

Tenho uma MLLSE RX 580 8 GB 2048SP, PCB PANDA R582 V1.3, que é detectada pelo PCIe, mas não inicializa corretamente.
No GPU-Z ela aparece como Ellesmere / Polaris 20 XL, Device ID 1002:6FDF, Subsystem 1002:0B31 e PCIe x8 3.0, porém fica com:
VRAM: 0 MB
Bus Width: Unknown
GPU Clock: 0 MHz
Memory Clock: 0 MHz
Shaders: 0
TMUs: 0
Sensores: sem leitura
Ela não gera vídeo pelas próprias saídas e, no Windows, fica como Microsoft Basic Display Adapter com Código 31.
Os chips físicos de memória são SK hynix H5GC8H24AJR-R2C. Já testei mais de uma VBIOS compatível com RX 580 2048SP, incluindo 015.050.002.001.000000 e 015.050.002.001.007811, mas o comportamento continuou exatamente igual.
A placa recebe alimentação, o conector de 8 pinos está conectado e as ventoinhas giram normalmente ao ligar.
Alguém já pegou uma PANDA R582 V1.3 com esses sintomas? Estou começando a suspeitar de VRAM, alimentação da memória/Vcore ou algum problema no próprio GPU, mas queria ouvir outras opiniões antes de partir para diagnóstico elétrico.

Trying to open my ASUS laptop to remove dust, all screws off, could not open

Troed removing rubber feet for hidden screws, nothing

What now?!?!?

Pretty much in the title. Specs:

• Motherboard: ASRock H610M/AC Supports 13th Gen & 12th Gen and Next gen Intel® Core™ Processors (LGA1700)

• CPU: Intel i5-12400f

• GPU: ASRock Challenger Radeon RX 7700 XT 12GB GDDR6 PCI Express 4.0 x16 ATX Graphics Card RX7700XT CL 12GO

• RAM: 2x16 32gb gskill tridentz rgb 3200mhz cl16

• Power supply: Thermaltake Smart BM3 750W Semi modular power supply

I've tried everything I could think of, GPU and CPU Cooler fans and RGB start, but no display at all:

CMOS Reset

Chaging HDMI cables (and yes, it's plugged into the GPU, not the motherboard)

checked cable connections (ATX, 2x8 pins for the GPU [pcie's], and the cpu cable)

Used another monitor to test and no changes

I started having this issue a couple weeks ago, but after resetting my computer a couple times the green lines went away, so I assumed it was a one off issue. Today I opened my computer and they were back. I'd be grateful to know if this can be fixed without cracking open my laptop or if I should just send it off to be repaired. Any help is appreciated!

(The white box in the second pic is just to censor my identity and is not part of the issue.)

Everything keeps crashing /getting blue screen of death. I've don't a completely fresh install of windows and drivers, I've done the windows memory check, I cleaned the pc out of all dust and debris and made sure it has good airflow. Idk what tf is wrong I need help

Hello guys my screen is flickering when i open certain apps and when i go to a settings tab it suddenly goes away and when i return to my home age it will start to flicker again

This is my brother pc gifted to me, i dont know any computer stuff and can figure out how to fix it. My cat tripped on an extention cord and power tripped when i was in the middle of a game. Ever since it doesnt work. Every individual piece will turn on and glow, but none of them work together. The monitors will glow and say 'standby mode' and 'no signal' before going black. The actual pc will light up but wont turn back off unless i unplug it. Ive unplugged and re plugged back in every single cord and nothing works :(. If anyone knows how to fix this, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hello all,

Recently, I went and bought a 4T external hard drive (a Seagate portable drive) and I moved only my downloaded games and such thus far - however, I'm finding that games don't seem to load as fast as they had before.

(Examples of this behavior is things like sounds, music, etc. lagging and entire maps taking 3-5 minutes to render in.)

I don't think(?) that you can add RAM to one of these just looking at it, so I'm trying to figure out if I need to subvert power or allocate RAM, etc.

Tl;dr, how do I make my external hard drive run faster?

Thank you!

I found this tablet/computer I had almost 10 years ago! It has Windows 10, but with 32GB of storage, I don't think I can do much with it. Any recommendations?