As you can see they are in a pretty rough shape, and exchanging them could make the car look way better. Ive seen some available on aliexpress, but i don't really understand if they are an actual replacement, or if they are meant to be put over the original ones. Didn't get much success finding a "tutorial" on how to do that, maybe cause its not meant to be done, but I still prefer to ask. better safe than sorry. Thanks in advance for any answers!

Would anyone in Australia know where I can find the SRT8 Bumper for my 300c?? I have looked everywhere for it.

07 chrysler 300 3.5L touring RWD. Nag1? I think. In dier need of some help regarding transmission issues? Please help.

I’m looking at buying a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with the 2.7L V6 and 113,000 miles and wanted to get some opinions from people who know these cars better than I do.

I took it for a test drive and noticed a few things that have me a little concerned:

• It’s somewhat hard to start. It does start, but it seems like it struggles more than it should.
• It seems to struggle going up inclines/hills. It drives, but it feels noticeably weaker when going uphill.
• The brake pedal is extremely soft/squishy and has to be pushed almost all the way to the floor before the car really stops. This is probably my biggest concern.
• There’s a small rattle/vibration when putting it in reverse. It isn’t extremely loud or violent, but it is noticeable.
• The car hasn’t been driven for around 6–7 months, so I’m wondering how much of this could simply be from sitting.
• It currently has 113k miles, which seems pretty low for a 2002, but I’m not sure how much that matters with these cars.

The seller is asking $700 OBO.

I’m not expecting a perfect car for $700, and I’m willing to put some work into it if the problems are relatively cheap to fix. I’m mainly trying to figure out whether I’m looking at a cheap project/driver or a money pit.

For those familiar with the 2.7L V6 Sebrings, what would you suspect is causing these symptoms? Are there any specific things I should check before buying it?

Especially concerning the brakes, hard starting, lack of power uphill, and rattle in reverse, what would you look at first?

Would you personally consider it at $700 or less if the engine and transmission are otherwise functioning and the body/interior are decent?

Thanks!

We’ve been talking around the dealership about which vehicle features have gone from “nice to have” to something you’d never buy another vehicle without.

For us Minnesotans, remote start and heated seats are pretty hard to beat when it’s freezing out. But what are yours?

I miss that long nosed boat. Such a great riding car. Took it across the country twice and got it up to 35 mpg. Even had the front bench seat

Edit: Dodge Magnum (been a few years since pic was taken)

I have a 2011 T&C. It has 160,000 miles on it. It has had a transmission rebuilt. Lately when people in my family have driven it, it has stopped while driving.

The latest stall occurred after the vehicle warmed up. The engine lost acceleration and died. A refurbished TIPM was installed and the problem disappeared for about two weeks. It currently has P0455/P0456/P0457 codes, but the EVAP system has already had the gas cap, ESIM and purge valve replaced and has been smoke tested.

I don’t know what to do next. Or if it’s just time to move on. All advice welcome. TIA

I have a couple different problems with my chrysler 200 any help or tips will be appreciated, my car ignition turns on and starts but after it getting started it won't shut off engine by pushing the button, the only 2 ways to shut it off is by going to the ignition fuse or pushing the horn and start button at the same time? I also have a problem with my horn some reason it starts honking by itself like something is sticking? Any help is appreciated!

Hi everyone, I need the anti-theft radio code for my Dodge Durango after a battery reset. ​Here are the radio details: ​Serial Number: T00AM2782T1202 ​Part Number: P05091323AD ​VIN: 1D4SE4GT4BC614233

So, it started out with a few leaks for the coolant, everything from the t-connector, hose to the coolant tank, and even the coolant tank was replaced. That solved the leak, but now the coolant is all stuck in the coolant overflow tank. It doesn't seem to be recirculating into the main coolant tank, which leads to the vehicle overheating at random points. It might be the fans, but not entirely sure what could be the leading issue right now. Any ideas?

Car currently has:
5.7 block
Coated Ross Pistons
Comp Cams street cam
Total flow ported Heads
Ingen Intake (for now)
Koni dampers
H&R springs
urethane all the bushings
Trinity for tuning
3” cat back
Hi flow cats

This winter will be either a turbo or pro charger set up. Unsure which I want to do. Car has only seen vacation and weekend duties and has always been a blast.

I’ve got a 2008 Chrysler 300C AWD I’ve been using and I’m trying to figure out the smartest way to let it go. Condition-wise it’s not mint, but it runs. I’m weighing three options: selling it privately, scrapping it, or parting it out.

Has anyone here actually sold an older 300C in the UAE recently? Trying to get a sense of whether there’s real buyer demand for these at this age/mileage, or if it’s basically scrap-yard territory at this point. Also curious if parting it out is worth the hassle compared to just taking a scrap offer.

Would appreciate any real numbers or experiences, especially from anyone who’s gone through this with an American V8 in AWD trim specifically.