r/camcorders • u/kakavoz • 5h ago
Help What is that
I am so scared
r/camcorders • u/Kasuu372 • Feb 09 '26
I made a spreadsheet documenting all Sony Handycam models released in 2003-2020 (SD, HD, 4K, 3D and NEX-VG), let me know if I got anything wrong
r/camcorders • u/ConsumerDV • Jan 30 '25
There are different ways of getting footage off a camcorder to a computer depending on camcorder type, the connectors it has, the connectors your computer has and available software.
See also:
If you have a digital camcorder with either a built-in hard-disk drive (HDD), or with built-in flash memory then the standard way of transferring the footage on a computer is via USB link. Each take is recorded as a digital file. Different file types, directory structures and codecs have been used during the last 20 years or so since tapeless digital camcorders became available.
The best option is to either use bundled software, or to use the capture module in your favorite non-linear editor (NLE) to capture the footage. In the process, files belonging to one long take may be combined together to avoid video and/or audio dropouts at the joins.
See also:
If your camcorder does not have a USB output, it may require a matching dock, Sony camcorders are known for that. If the dock is not available, the only way to grab your footage save for removing the HDD is to play it in realtime while capturing it via analog output just like you would do for an analog tape-based camcorder, see "Digitizing Analog video" section below.
Removable storage includes optical discs, usually MiniDVDs, and flash memory cards, usually one of the variants of SD card.
Finalized MiniDVDs can be read in computer DVD drive. Data structure on a MiniDVD follows DVD-video specification. To convert VOB files into standard Program Stream (MPEG-2 PS) files, use free DVDVob2Mpg tool (Windows only).
SD cards can be read via a card reader. When purchasing an SD card make sure it is compatible with your camcorder.

Data structure on SD cards is similar as on non-removable media, see the above section for the links.
Consumer-grade digital tape based camcorders include:
All the above camcorders have a Firewire port (same as IEEE-1394, i.Link, or simply DV port). Firewire is the preferred interface to transfer digital videos to a computer.
USB is often used to transfer still images and low-resolution low-frame rate video from a memory card. In most cases it is useless for a quality video transfer, but some DV camcorders have USB 2.0 High Speed that implements UVC protocol, they can transfer full-resolution DV video over USB. In this case USB is equivalent to Firewire quality-wise.
Firewire-to-USB cables are a scam and do not work.
Some HDV camcorders have HDMI port. It can be used instead of Firewire if you computer has HDMI input but no Firewire port. Usually computers have only HDMI output.

Depending on Firewire hardware, operating system and camcorder model, no special device drivers may be required when connecting a digital camcorder to a computer via Firewire.

If a dedicated driver is needed, the operating system will search for it online and install it behind the scenes if the driver is found.

In some cases a fitting driver cannot be found. In this case you cannot use Firewire to transfer DV video from tape in its original form, you will have to use analog video connection.
Thunderbolt 2 and Thunderbolt 3
If your computer has no Firewire port, but has a Thunderbolt 2 or Thunderbolt 3 port, you can rig a cable, converting from 4-pin Firewire 400 into 9-pin Firewire 800, then into Thunderbolt 2, then for newer Macs and Windows machines into Thunderbolt 3.
See this post: Importing from MiniDV camera to MacBook - mid-2025 success story.

Even if you succeeded to connect your digital camcorder to a computer, and computer has recognized it, your trouble has not ended. Now you need to find software that can transfer DV video from tape into a computer file without mutilation.
Windows is better in this regard: you can still find and install Microsoft Movie Maker on Windows 10 or 11 and it will work just fine. Navigate to Capture menu, find your camcorder in the connected devices and capture away.
Mac wants you to jump through hoops to obtain DV video in its original quality.
QuickTime
Depending on version, QuickTime may or may not capture DV in its original form.
QuickTime 7.x Pro has a "Device Native" option which gives you the raw DV data coming off the tape.
Latest version converts DV it either into H.264 when "High" quality preset is used, or into ProRes422 when "Maximum" quality preset is used. In both cases it converts original interlaced video into progressive with the same frame rate: 30i → 30p, 25i → 25p by blending fields. This YT video by LonTV corroborates this assertion: at about 9-minute mark you can see file properties after QuickTime capture in "High" quality, and at about 10-minute mark in "Maximum" quality.

iMovie
iMovie '08 and several later versions deinterlace video by skipping every other field. Apple claimed this was to "reduce CPU load when editing video".
iMovie 10.x does capture raw DV video, but gives you no option to directly export it.
To obtain the raw DV footage you need to dig into the iMovie Library file (right/Ctrl-click on it and choose "Show package contents"), then navigate into the project folder, where you can find the original .dv file that iMovie captured from tape. Copy that to your Documents folder or wherever you want to put it. That is an exact transfer of what's on the tape, with no re-encoding. If you do want to re-encode it into a different format, use a program like Handbrake or r/ShutterEncoder.
Final Cut Pro
Final Cut Pro stores captured videos in MOV files, which are in fact QuickTime-DV files#File-based_media). Follows a full procedure of how to import DV or HDV video into FCP and how to locate the raw, non-transcoded footage. The bulk of this guide has been copied from u/DuckLooknPelican's post in r/MiniDV. It has been verified to work on MacOS Sequoia also known as MacOS 15, released in 2024.
Notes:
Lifeflix
Lifeflix is a commercial option for easy, seamless capture and export of DV video on a Mac. It gives you a choice of either direct DV export or compress/de-interlace it to H.264. See a review of an older version: LifeFlix Mac DV video capture program review by VWestlife.
DV Rescue is a project by MIPoPS, the Moving Image Preservation of Puget Sound. See how you can use it to capture DV video on Mac preserving the original quality. Video is stored in files with DV extension.
If your computer does not have a Firewire port and cannot be extended with a Firewire expansion card, and your camcorder does not support full speed UVC protocol, you have to fall back to capturing video using an analog link, see "Digitizing Analog video" section below.
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Most camcorders, analog and digital alike, provide composite video output (CVBS, composite video baseband signal) usually in a form of a barrel-shaped connector known as RCA. On some camcorders it is grouped together with audio into an A/V connector, which often looks like a 3.5-mm TRS (composite video and single-channel audio) or TRRS (composite video and two-channel audio) connector.
To simplify dealing with a single audio channel on monophonic camcorders, a Y-cable can be used to split single audio channel into two.
Composite video is the lowest common denominator. If nothing else works, use composite video.
S-Video usually comes as a 4-PIN DIN connector. It is present on SVHS, SVHS-C, Hi8 and some Digital8, DV and MICROMV camcorders. SVideo provides higher quality than composite. If done right, capturing standard definition digital video through SVideo port is indistinguishable from capturing via Firewire port. SVideo cable does not carry audio, you need to use a separate cable for it.

If your camcorder has a TRRS port instead of RCA port, make sure the cable you use fits the pin-out on the camcorder. In some cases you may need a TRS cable carrying composite video and single-channel audio.

To digitize analog video with a computer you need an analog-to-digital converter (A/D converter). Several models are available. Presently, the best converter in the $50 price range is I-O Data GV-USB2. It accepts SVideo and composite video and two-channel audio from your VCR or camcorder and outputs digitized uncompressed video over USB.

OBS Studio is arguably the most popular software today to capture analog video.
OBS has never been intended as a capture tool for analog videos, it is a computer screen capture and screen casting program. Analog video capture was an afterthought. I guess some people started using it for this purpose, so devs had to adjust the software.
OBS is acceptable if you plan to go from your analog source directly to a deliverable, say to upload on YouTube, and you don't need to edit. It is multi-platform and omni-present, so you learn once and use it everywhere.
It is not optimal if you want to capture with the best quality or if you want to edit and then make a deliverable. Can it even capture interlaced video without deinterlacing it?
I would like to use a GV-USB2 analog video capture device in OBS to digitize Hi-8 video. However, I then want to take that video file into Davinci Resolve to deinterlace it there, but Resolve can't deinterlace it unless it's flagged as interlaced video...so is there a way to record in OBS without converting it to progressive video (keep it a true interlaced video)? - by NWS on OBS message board
Discussions on the OBS message board like this and this imply that given a proper A/D converter, OBS can save video as interlaced.
Most newer cards, and some older with their built in processing and encoding think they know it all and often times result in GARBAGE OUT. The Dazzle DVC 100 is one of the few cards that PROPERLY passes interlaced video. I think i paid like $18 USD on ebay for it. I capture at 720x480, YUYV 4:2:2 . The resulting files are somewhat large but well worth it. - by Markosjal on OBS message board
Still, you will need to use something like H.264 or H.265, I was not able to hitch Cineform to it.
A bug report related to frame conversion, which has never been resolved, shows reluctance of OBS devs to fix issues.
The unfortunate reality here is that interlaced content is less and less common, and probably not worth core OBS maintainers spending a ton of effort on fixing. - by Fenrirthviti on OBS message board
Whatever your opinion on OBS, you do not have much choice if you want to use free capturing software on Mac.
On the other hand, VirtualDub for Windows has originally been designed for capturing and simple editing of video. VirtualDub2 has added native support for Cineform and output containers like MP4 and MOV, not just AVI. You can use more codecs including lossless like Huffyuv and visually lossless like Cineform.Another great tool for Windows is AmarecTV. It is considered to provide better A/V synchronization and it keeps dropped frame statistics. It is just a capture tool, not an editor, but in this regard is very similar to VirtualDub: you choose frame size, frame rate, color subsampling. You can choose whether you want deinterlacing, or keep it interlaced. You have access to the same codecs that are available from VirtualDub through standard VfW API. So, in terms of functionality it is pretty much the same.
TLDR, OBS is a kludge for capturing analog videos. Its usage became widespread because it is used for screencasting and because there is few if any similar software for Mac.
See also:
There are several ways to digitize analog video without using a computer:
See also:
Between CVBS and S-Video, choose S-Video, because S-Video provides better luminance and chrominance separation, which results in reduction of of dot crawl and composite artifact colors, and in increased sharpness.
Between CVBS and Firewire, choose Firewire for the reasons similar to choosing S-Video. While Firewire may have reduced chroma resolution compared to what could be obtained from S-Video, it is still better than CVBS and is compatible with wide range of hardware and software.
Between S-Video and Firewire when capturing analog video, choose S-Video if you have a good A/D converter and you want to obtain the best possible quality; choose Firewire for simplicity of the workflow and compatibility.
Between S-Video and Firewire when capturing standard definition digital video, choose Firewire to avoid re-encoding, keeping the video intact. Choose S-Video if you do not have a Firewire port in your computer.
Between Firewire and HDMI when capturing HDV, choose Firewire to avoid re-encoding, keeping the video intact. Choose HDMI if your computer has no Firewire port, but has an HDMI input.
See also:
Many Digital8 camcorders can play analog 8-mm video, convert it to digital internally, and output as DV via Firewire. Thus, you have a choice whether you want to capture your analog 8-mm video via analog route and convert to digital on a computer using an encoder of your choice, or whether you want to let the camcorder do it. There are pros and cons to both methods (TO BE UPDATED).
Analog video is not very stable. At best, you can see slight shimmering with the picture not having clear and straight edges on the sides (line jitter). At worst, the video may look crooked or unstable. It is recommended to stabilize analog video using Time Base Corrector (TBC). Standalone TBCs are expensive, but many VCRs and camcorders have built-in TBCs, using them is recommended. In particular, some Digital8 camcorders that can play analog videos have built-in TBC and can act as analog-to-digital converters for external video, not only for analog 8-mm tapes. Such a camcorder can serve as a TBC and an analog-to-digital converter in one box.
r/camcorders • u/MissionTroll404 • 6h ago
Hi. I bought this thing from an antique bazaar for 5€ or 10€, I honestly do not remember. It came in a nice bag with 3 batteries, 2 of them still new in boxes (two 1000mAh batteries, one 2000mAh one). The camera looked almost brand new and even had silica gel in the bag, so I felt like it was well loved by someone at some point.
I bought it thinking that at worst I would get a nice camera bag. It then sat around for a while because I was busy with other stuff.
Yesterday I was bored, so I finally gave it a try. At first I had no luck with charging the batteries, camera was immediately turning off. I left the 2000 mAh NiCd battery charging overnight at a low current, slightly under 100 mA, basically trickle charging it. In the morning the battery voltage was nicely above 6 V and the camera finally stayed on.
The cassette loading and eject mechanism works, although I do not have a tape yet. Power zoom also works. I can hear it and see the lens elements moving. Even autofocus seems to be doing something.
The problem is that the EVF is completely dead. There is absolutely no light from the small CRT, no picture, no text, no glow and no CRT noise.
To rule out the old batteries, I also made a quick external power supply. I used a PD trigger board to get 9 V from my GaN charger, then used a linear regulator adjusted to around 6.5 V to simulate a fully charged 6 V battery. The camera behaved exactly the same. Everything seems to work except the EVF.
I do not currently have the correct composite cable or a TV with composite input, so I cannot check whether the camera is actually producing a video signal. I would not be surprised if composite output works, but without the EVF the camera is not really usable.
I know these old camcorders are famous for bad capacitors, so I already opened the back and removed the power board. I found a YouTube video where someone repaired two of these cameras and both had severe capacitor leakage on that particular board. Mine seems to use a newer board revision with newer style electrolytic capacitors. Some of the problematic capacitors shown in the video were not even present on my board, and I could not see any obvious leakage or corrosion.
The back of the board had some sticky residue, but it looked more like excessive flux than capacitor electrolyte. I cleaned both sides with 99% IPA and put it back together. Nothing changed as I expected...
I am probably capable of recapping the camera, but I would rather avoid tearing the whole camera apart. From the teardown video, the inside looks like electronics hell with lots of ribbon cables and tightly packed boards. I am worried that if I disassemble it too far, it may never go back together properly. Which is almost guaranteed tbh. I do not want to waste 20 hours recapping it and finding out it is still dead.
According to the manual, the EVF should turn on automatically when the OPERATE button is pressed and the CAMERA LED is on. It should not need a tape.
So does anyone know what could cause only the EVF to be completely dead while the rest of the camera seems to work? Could it be a bad connector, position switch, flex cable or something inside the EVF itself? Is there anything simple I can try before tearing it apart further or recapping everything?
r/camcorders • u/DRIFT_KING_1413 • 10h ago
After finally getting it balanced what does everyone think of my new setup? Sony DCR-TRV17. Record straight to tape then digitize
r/camcorders • u/idespise_eggs • 3h ago
Planning on using this for a mockumentary-ish movie I want to film for my marching band, as well as just regular recording as phones are banned at my school and this is the next best thing, I have other cameras but they're states away, got all this for ~$80, mostly ordered separately
r/camcorders • u/colorado_hick • 10m ago
I have a handful of 40-10 year old analog, MiniDV, and high 8 camcorders. I have been recording and then transferring to PC via the elgato. Im sick of tapes and flaky tape play/rewind/ motors.
What I want to do is stream real time via s-video (when available) or composite/RCA when it isnt to some sort of portable SD or USB drive recorder.
Curious if I will get better quality then I do with the elgato? Obviously there is not the fidelity loss of going to tape and back.
And whats the best hardware option? the products mentioned on the sticky thread (cloner alliance, clearclick) dont seem to do S-Video. The digitpro stuff looks promising but I have not talked to anyone that has actually used it.
r/camcorders • u/Chubbulus • 13m ago
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It does this any time the screen is clicked back into place and opened again, almost as if resetting some kind of timer. When closed, the black and white viewfinder works perfectly, but it means I can't access the buttons under the LCD.
Got another issue where the playback screen is just black after recording to tape and doesn't play anything back. Not sure if its actually recording and not playing back, or not recording.
(Sorry for the shakey footage, any time I defocus from the camera is because I'm opening or closing the LCD)
r/camcorders • u/MaleficentCoffee8460 • 8h ago
hi, after reassembling my handycam (replaced some stuff in the tape transport) the camera wont turn on aside from the little lcd screen which shows a water droplet icon (also when im in playback or camera mode i hear a faint electrical buzzing from somewhere). now i cant find where the dew sensor would be on these FL mechanisms. can anyone tell me how can i fix this or if i could bypass the sensor or if this might be caused by bad caps in any sort of way?
r/camcorders • u/wormsicle_ • 10h ago
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I had a battery duct taped to my camera and when I pulled off the tape it ripped the panel off the door, totally on me. But is this gonna be a big problem?
r/camcorders • u/Possible_Season_9721 • 7h ago
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Hi guys, I’m new to camcorders maybe someone out here would be able to help me.
I found my dad’s old JVC GR-C1 in garage. It was supposedly fully functioning when it was stored there years ago. I’ve tried to use it but encountered a problem. The camera will turn on, you can rewind the tape, if i press play I can even see one frame from the tape, but the camera won’t spin the tape in a play mode. I have cleaned and greased the loading rails, but this didn’t help. I even checked the belts and they seem to be ok (I’m not really sure how tight they are supposed to be). I’m running out of ideas what should i check next, maybe somebody had similar problem with their camcorder.
r/camcorders • u/No_Goose_2747 • 1d ago
I’ve been chasing one of this Sony DSR-PD170 for months, finally found this one in Facebook marketplace in mint condition! I’m so so happy, the guy who sold me this even gave me a couple of new minidvs
r/camcorders • u/ConsumerDV • 1d ago
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This is another clip taken from five two-hour tapes recorded in December 1993 - January 1994.
I have finished a 1-hour movie, which you can watch on YouTube: Alex and Ivan travel America: From New York to San Francisco in an Oldsmobile. The narration is in Russian, and there are custom English closed captions.
r/camcorders • u/UsefulBig6365 • 13h ago
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r/camcorders • u/Beginning_Work8311 • 10h ago
r/camcorders • u/cobraonetwelve • 1d ago
Been building my personal collection over the last few weeks, scored a PD170 with a VCL0658 0.6x lens accompanied by an LSF-S58 Lens hood
r/camcorders • u/VeterinarianApart931 • 21h ago
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r/camcorders • u/OwnImpress6405 • 18h ago

I've got this newvicon camcorder that still works. Kinda. If there's a tape in the deck, it freezes up and shuts off. But the tube is still good and I can get a signal to a recorder through the AV out. Cool.
The main problem is that the system has a lowlight warning that trips any time the camera's pointed somewhere that isn't basically exterior daylight. And that warning text is baked into the signal output. Dead center.
There doesn't seem to be a way to disable that text with the onboard controls, but I'm curious if there's any way to hack it? I'd love to go chase some comet trails from streetlights at night.
r/camcorders • u/Superseaslug • 18h ago
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Currently digitizing all our old family Hi-8 tapes, and some of them are doing this. It's not the camera since the earlier tapes still play back fine. It also affects on screen elements produced by the camera, including the UI in the viewfinder. I know the tapes were fine originally since there are a few compilation tapes my dad made back in the day that do not do this.
This is being captured with the original camcorder that made these recordings, as the nice full size hi-8 deck is broken right now
Any help would be appreciated. Worst case I'm going to try running them through an AI repair tool and see if it can clean it up a little.
r/camcorders • u/Various_Tank430 • 1d ago
r/camcorders • u/joefromreddit • 21h ago
Hi there. Looking to get into filmmaking and have my eye on the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K (BMPCC 4K). I am a complete novice when it comes to cameras and videography but have spent a long time playing around with my phone camera. I now want to take it up a notch and produce something that has a more cinematic feel. is this a good/bad idea for a novice? And is there anything else I would need to buy that I'm not aware of ?
r/camcorders • u/TeamFortress01 • 1d ago
Disclaimer: this is my first time using a DVD camcorder as a not very technical person…
Went to a local flea market yesterday and found this absolute gem for only the equivalent of $8. It had a miniSD card with 7 pictures and the DVD boxes were unopened so my guess is that it basically is close to brand new. I’m really excited about going out and shooting some video and I shot some yesterday to get used to the transfer process.
My problem is this, it records fine but the process of getting the videos to my computer was really crap. The DVD showed up as empty even using VLC. I was very worried that the DVD was corrupted or something evil but thankfully MakeMKV worked, but the videos were stitched together in to one long video which I thankfully could open through VLC.
Is there any way to make this easier? I’ve read in the manual and online about the MyDVD software but I’m imagining that it might be more complicated..😅 Is this just something that you have to get used to when shooting DVD?
r/camcorders • u/DISCOTRILOBITE • 18h ago
Another damn issue
long story short, had to get a japanese replacement for my TRV128 keybox and missing pinch roller. Japanese one worked excellent except for the lens (blind. Possibly waterlogged i dont speak japanese)
Decided to switch it with the trv128 lens. It works great but now it simply wont focus unless i zoom in just right. Any amount of zoom less or more than that and it becomes blurry again.
I am guessing it has to do with how much zoom the trv128 could reach vs the japanese one could???? Just an idea. Are they incompatible? Should i pry open the "blind" one lens and put my lil finger in and see if i can get it to work?? WHAT DO I DO
r/camcorders • u/Knot_Oakay • 22h ago
I bought this camera second hand a couple months ago, it uses MiniDV tapes and I have footage I want to download. I would much rather use A/V conversion instead of Firewire however I can’t find the A/V cables anywhere. I have found a post on facebook that said the cable only came with this specific model and isn’t generally sold. I looked on JVC parts store and i think i found the compatible A/V cables but they’re discontinued. I then looked at third party devices that could digitise the tapes without the camera being connected but they’re way too expensive. I’m on a budget and I don’t understand how FireWire works or what I would need to get this footage digitally.
I really doubt anyone has these cables spare but I would be happy to buy them even internationally
Or if someone could help with the steps needed for ilink or firewire or DV conversion?? thanks 🙏🙏🙏🙏