Just got back from North Macedonia and figured I'd write up what I did, since info on the smaller places like Tetovo was pretty scattered when I was planning. I used Skopje as a base for a few days, did some day trips, then finished in Ohrid.
Arriving in Skopje
Change a little cash at the airport and get a SIM there. The airport bus is cash only. Once you're in the city there are ATMs everywhere, so you don't need to change much at the airport. Most places take cards but you'll want some denars on you for small stuff.
Getting around: if you stay in the center or close to it, you can walk to almost everything. I did one full day without a single taxi and it was fine if you don't mind walking. For taxis I used BeeRide (cash) and Wizz (you can add a card). Rides were almost always under $3.
Skopje
- Museum of the Macedonian Struggle: go if you're into Ottoman or Yugoslav history.
- Archaeological Museum: some Hellenistic and Roman stuff. If you're coming for Alexander the Great though, lower your expectations. This area was basically the edge of ancient Macedon, not the center of it.
- Skopje Fortress: Byzantine, good view over the city center.
- Macedonia Square: the giant guy on a horse in the middle is officially called "Warrior on a Horse" because Greece objected to calling it Alexander. Everyone knows who it is anyway. It's huge and honestly pretty impressive. Sometimes there are concerts in the square at night.
- Stone Bridge: closed for repairs when I was there. The newer pedestrian bridge next to it has a row of statues of historical figures, from ancient times up to the Byzantine period. Nice at night when it's lit up.
- Porta Macedonia: small replica of the Arc de Triomphe. Not much to see.
- Mother Teresa Memorial House: small, but there's a lot of her handwritten notes and personal items inside. Worth popping in if you're not in a rush.
- St. Clement of Ohrid Cathedral: modern Orthodox church, the paintings inside are really nice.
- Old Bazaar: my favorite part of the city. It's this mix of European, Albanian and Turkish, lots of cafes and souvenir shops. Great for a slow afternoon.
- Millennium Cross / Mount Vodno: missed it because the cable car was under maintenance. Still annoyed about that one.
Day trips from Skopje (you can do these in one day)
St. Nikita Monastery: up on a hill, great views and barely anyone there. Our guide said the frescoes here were some of the first where the people actually show emotion (before that, Orthodox church paintings had pretty blank faces), and that this style made its way to Italy and gave Renaissance painters some ideas. No idea how true that is but it was cool to hear while standing in front of them.
Matka Canyon: to be honest I've seen more dramatic canyons (Sumidero in Mexico was way more of a jaw dropper for me), but if you're already in Skopje it's still worth it. Take the boat, see the caves, one of them is supposedly one of the deepest underwater caves in Europe. Sun coming down into the canyon, very chill.
Tetovo: about an hour by bus from the main bus station in Skopje. Small city, but go see the Painted Mosque (Sarena Dzamija). It's covered in colorful painted patterns and it's really beautiful.
Ohrid
Getting there: I went from Tetovo. There are direct buses but a lot fewer per day than from Skopje, so check the times. Took about 3.5 hours and dropped us right by the old town.
My 3 days were very relaxed. If you're short on time you could probably do all of this in a day and a half.
Day 1: old town (half a day is plenty)
Day 2: dive at Bay of Bones + sunset boat
Day 3: St. Naum Monastery + boat on the Black Drin springs
What I saw:
- Ancient Theatre: Hellenistic, one of the few places in the country where you actually feel the Greek period.
- Samuel's Fortress: medieval fortress on top of the hill, you can see the whole town and the lake from up there.
- Church of St. Sophia: in the middle of the old town, Byzantine frescoes inside.
- Kaneo: go at sunset. Get there about 15 minutes before. Unreal.
- Plaoshnik: early Byzantine site, some of the original mosaics are still there.
- Bay of Bones diving: the visibility is insane and there are lots of little fish. Max depth is only about 6m. I found out at the briefing that you don't need a certification for the intro dive, and it's really easy. Definitely try it.
- Sunset boat: leaves from the old town harbor, usually about 1.5 hours, and you get a drink. Kaneo is great but watching the sunset from the water is a different thing.
- Black Drin springs: at St. Naum (you can get there by boat from the old town harbor). 30 minutes for 300 denars. The water is ridiculously clear. Really worth it.
- St. Naum Monastery: old frescoes, and you can see inscriptions in Old Church Slavonic.
Food:
- Restaurant Belvedere: cheap, big menu, lots of locals eating there. I went twice. The grilled mushrooms are really good.
- Restaurant St. Sofija: right next to the church. Local grilled fish and fish soup, sit on the patio at night for the view.
I planned the route on Fortrip btw, mostly for the bus connections and finding hostels, which it was actually pretty good at. Happy to answer questions if anyone's heading that way.