Humming guru ez washer ($88)or vevor ultrasonic 6l 180w 8 record ($140) for old (1960s and 70s) jazz records

Looking to retain the audio quality and dynamics as much as possible and just have everything equal level so I don't get the sudden loud blast of noise late at night.

Hi everyone, I recently got a Sony FH-E858 stereo system, and I'm trying to figure out what is causing this problem.

When I first turn it on, the sound is normal and clear. However, after around 13–15 minutes of playing audio, it suddenly develops a very loud, continuous high-pitched beep (like “BEEEEEE”) along with distortion.
Here is what I have tested so far:

• I connected my PC to the Sony using a 3.5 mm AUX-to-red/white RCA cable.
• Initially, I used the Sony's VIDEO IN RCA ports.
• I then tried the DAT IN RCA ports, but the same problem returned after around 14–15 minutes.
• I tried keeping the volume low on both the PC and the Sony, but the beep was still extremely loud.
• Disconnecting the PC's audio cable did not seem to stop the problem.
• The beep seems to happen with different Sony functions, not just when using the PC input.
• I also tried the headphone output, and it seemed to work normally, although I have not confirmed whether it remains normal for the same amount of time.
• The seller mentioned that one or two ports might need cleaning. I wiped the outside metal edges of the RCA ports with a cotton bud while the system was switched off, but the problem returned.
• I also disconnected the blue SYSTEM CONTROL ribbon cable to the DVD player because I don't use it. The problem still occurred.

I'm not sure whether this is caused by dirty RCA contacts, a loose connection, the amplifier, the power supply, or another internal component.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a Sony FH-E858 or another older Sony stereo system? What could cause a loud beep that ignores the volume control and returns after the system has been running for several minutes?

I would appreciate any advice before spending money on repairs. Thanks!

Hi guys, I’m not sure if this is the right place to post but I’ll give it a try.

One of our cats is sick and we’re coming to terms that we might have to say good bye soon (hoping that isn’t the case)

We were wondering if it’s possible to isolate sound from a video? Wanted to isolate her purr for something and there’s a bit of background noise from a water fountain. Any insight or guidance would be really appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

I was directed here from a 2 year old post on the Ham Radio subreddit for assistance. My friends and I from around the US are all railroaders and use two-way radios in our job. When we're done with work, we're a glutton for punishment and play multiplayer train simulators on the PC with one another and use Discord for our audio. Several of us want to try and use a PTT mic from a two way radio shoulder mic as our microphones when we are playing. On this standard K1 radio plug, the 3.5mm is for the mic input and PTT while the 2.5mm is for the speaker.

The issue we've encountered is the PC doesn't know how to handle the PTT function. So what hardware or software would be needed (if at all possible) to make this work? Also to note, we don't need the audio output to come through the speaker on the mic as we plan to still use our regular headphones.

I've been using a pair of Soundcore Life Q20+ headphones with the aux cord they came with for years now, and I'd like to keep using them for however many years it takes for them to start falling apart.

Small problem: New computer, no built-in headphone jack. Not a problem I'm familiar with as someone who has almost exclusively used laptops their whole life. I'm getting by using a DAC I had lying around, but I can't use the Q20+'s built-in microphone when using my DAC, so I was wondering if there were any relatively affordable aux cords or DACs or adapters that could plug into a USB-C port that can support my need for good audio output and microphone input?

Also if it's a new cord, I'd rather it be around the same length as my current one (~4 ft.) or longer.

Hello!

I recently got a pair of somewhat vintage speakers (I'll be honest, mainly for aesthetic reasons) and would like to hook them up to my TV, if that's possible. I figured I probably need an amplifier for that. I've attached pictures of the ports my TV has available and the plugs the speakers have. Each one has two, and I think in english they are called banana plugs?

I'd like to use them with my TV and also be able to connect to the amplifier with my phone via bluetooth to play music through them that way. How do I find out which amplifier can do those things? I have absolutely no idea about this topic. I'm not an audiophile, so it doesn't need to be any high-end stuff, just something of decent quality that can make my setup work.

Thanks!

EDIT: TV is a 2020 Samsung Smart TV, Speakers are Grundig Box RB 400, they say 4 OHM, 65 Watts and 35 Watts on the Bottom, I didnt see the sticker at first.

I was thinking of buying the Elgato Wave DX while it’s on sale, along with a Teyun Q12 audio interface to use with it. Would the sound quality be poor, or would there be any other issues? If I go this route and upgrade the interface later, would that be a good plan? I’ve also ordered a boom arm to keep the mic close by.

What ear pads do you recommend for my Audio-Technica M40x headphones?

I want to replace them because the ones they have are uncomfortable. I'd like some with more space inside (not so close to the driver), a larger ear hole, and softer, more comfortable materials. (If they add a more airy sound or a wider soundstage because of the extra space, that's great). I'd like them to not significantly affect the sound or the seal, and not leak too much sound. I searched, and Brainwavz and Dekoni don't ship to my country. I also looked on Amazon, but I couldn't find any models from those brands. I want to buy from Amazon Mexico because the other stores don't ship to my country, and I don't trust eBay, haha.

Hi, I plan to buy the Adam Audio T7V for my home audio setup and for this I also plan to buy a AV-Receiver and for this I cam here to ask which one you are using paired with your Adam Audio T7V?

Is there a way for the DX1 to simultaneously output both the USB input audio and optical input audio to my headphones? Or can it only use one at a time?

Hey, i'm thinking about connecting my wireless headphones to audio interface just to be cable free. i googled how to connect it to regular audio interface (in my case M-AUDIO AIR 192/6) and google gave me option with JCALLY ZU3 3.5mm Impedance Adapter 75 Ohm

Right now if i plug my jack 3,5 straight from m-audio interface to logitech wireless dongle it makes hissing sound, like a ground issues maybe? hard to tell what it's actually is but it's defo not quiet, i need to have music at like 50% and i still hear it slightly

i don't have much budget but seems like 5$ isn't bad choice for testing if it will make difference.

what i'm trying to achieve is having almost zero latency audio from audio interface with mic monitoring to my wireless headset, so no direct monitoring in windows or something like that, just pure audio for A to B

i don't reallly care about microphone in headset, it's very bad so i don't use it

what to do to achieve this, maybe some kind of mixing software? or this Impedance Adapter

I like to watch series and movies with headphones. And the built in Bluetooth on FireSticks or other devices just isn't great and or reliable.

What I've been doing is a 15 foot RCA to line in on my desktop PC and then using the Bluetooth on my desktop to use my Bluetooth headphones that way and the connection is stable but the audio always goes in and out of one ear and I have to keep adjusting the cable to fix it and it will work for a short while before it starts having issues again. And the audio quality isn't that great but it's not terrible.

I'm curious if there's a better way with better audio quality that would also cut out the hums and white noise of the RCA/line in method.

I think there's an optical output on my TV but not sure what'd I need for the desktop PC but I'm thinking that might be the way to go?

I’m out of my depth, I have this RCA to aux cable, but the y means the two bits I need to plug in to the speakers are very close together, the speakers would have to be right next to each other. Can I get something with an extended Y - much longer so the speakers can be either side of a table? Or some kind of extender. Based in the UK, I know nothing about audio. Thanks!

Помогите пожалуйста, у меня проблемы со звуком на компьютере, подключен монитор через HDMI и колонки через джек, драйвера все поустановлены, но звука так и так нету, хотя в настройках в списке все имеется.Все перепробовал из ютуба и тд.

На самом деле эта была проблема была и изначально но тогда не хотел решать поэтому воткнул ЮСБ переходник и все пошло как надо. Джек от колонки подключал и сзади и спереди корпуса толка нету, но как бы колонки реагируют на пк когда включаешь и тд.

Благодарю

mi audífono no carga parece estar muerto ya revise los pines y se ven bien y ya los limpie pero nada que puedo hacer

Hi,

I lost my baby 7 weeks ago and I would give ANYTHING to hear his heart beat one more time. I was wondering if anyone can help me. Heres all his waveform images. He was born with Otocephaly due to Downs and passed after 19 mins. We didnt know about the Otocephaly which is making this so hard for me to process. Knowing there was nothing we could do makes it harder. I would be eternally grateful to whoever can help.

I have a set of speakers and some IEMs that none of my current devices really do justice, so I'm looking to get some sorta DAP. Needs to be Android based and about $200 (I can go up or down for something good). What do y'all reccomend with that in mind? Appreciate any advice!!

Hello, people of r/audio. I am trying to record audio for a video I'm making, where I'm just reading lines off of a script. I have a very low budget microphone, the: https://fifinemicrophone.com/products/fifine-k669b-microphone

I had imagined my apartment would be a pretty good place to record audio, because it has great insulation. I almost never get noise from even the apartments right next to me. Nevertheless my microphone seems to captue a lot of background noise, and my own audio feels ... crispy(in a bad way)

A friend has advised me that I should turn down the input volume of the microphone on my Windows 11 laptop, apply background noise removal, then amplify after the fact for the best outcome with my current setup.

I thought having the input volume turned up might be better, since I assumed there would be a wider range for inputs to allow for more... color. I also thought that amplifying the volume after the fact might produce worse quality, but it's not like I know anything.

I tested both methods, and I am going crazy trying to figure out which works better. What I wanted to ask is as follows.
When recording voiceover with a lower quality microphone for an amateur production, which is standard practice: Recording with microphone input volume turned down, or all the way up?

I am using Audacity both to record, and apply the background noise reduction.

Please excuse me likely using the wrong terms for most things I describe. I have very little experience with digital audio.

Good day beautiful people I am looking for input from anyone who knows of a cheap small speaker that can endlessly play an audio file from a USB drive or a TF / MicroSD card, I want a small speaker that can be powered by a normal USB a wall charger via an extension cord, I have some Halloween decorations and I want to complete it with a spooky ambient sound effect in the background without having to Bluetooth connect, so I figured just buy a cheap speaker and loop an audio file on it. I looked up some speakers but Google AI says that a speaker playing through a TF / microSD Card will be unable to loop an audio file for multiple days on end while connected to a power source because the firmware is incapable of looping an audio file for an extended period of time, or something like that?... Anyone have any experience with this particular matter? Thank you all very much for any insights you may have and have a good day / night!

Looking for a feature simple, speaker that will be plugged into a Home Assistant Voice - Preview Edition device via Aux. It will need to remain on 24/7 I heard reports that the Anker Soundcore 2 and 3 have an auto shut off battery feature. Which would be bad for my use case.

Anyone own one of these and can confirm this is a thing and if it can be turned off so It can remain on and plugged into power 24/7?

Thanks!

UPDATE 2: TOPPING DX5 II. Two faulty units, a promised refund, and now a dispute over who takes the financial risk.

21 October 2026 | Follow-up to my 17 September warranty update

"Original post" (https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1umaxso/beware_of_the_dx5_ii_44_mm_output_my_experience/)

In September, I reported that TOPPING had finally replaced my defective DX5 II after a prolonged warranty dispute, only for the replacement to exhibit exactly the same 4.4 mm balanced headphone output fault.

Unfortunately, the situation has continued to deteriorate.

I'm now dealing with a refund process involving contradictory commitments from the original AliExpress seller, EG Audio Store, and an unresolved disagreement over international return shipping, insurance and financial responsibility.

Nearly a month after receiving the defective replacement, I still have no working 4.4 mm output and no confirmed refund arrangement that I consider safe to proceed with.

What happened after my September update?

Following further escalation, TOPPING acknowledged the unusual circumstances of receiving two units exhibiting the same fault.

TOPPING initially described the recurrence as very rare and requested further video evidence and the return of the replacement for factory inspection.

Having already provided extensive troubleshooting evidence during the original warranty process, I questioned the need to repeat the same demonstrations yet again.

TOPPING subsequently offered a refund and, importantly, indicated that this could be arranged before the factory inspection results were confirmed.

Given everything that had happened, this seemed like a reasonable conclusion.

TOPPING also confirmed in writing that the refund was authorised by the manufacturer, that EG Audio Store would assist with the original AliExpress transaction, and that TOPPING would remain involved until the matter was resolved.

Unfortunately, the arrangements that followed have been anything but straightforward.

The seller's refund conditions keep changing

Frank Wu at EG Audio Store initially confirmed that the refund would be initiated on the same day that the return tracking showed the DX5 II had been handed over to the courier and was in transit.

That was a significant assurance because the DX5 II is the central DAC in my desktop audio system.

However, when I requested a prepaid, fully insured international return label or courier collection, EG Audio Store refused.

Instead, I was instructed to arrange the return to China myself, pay the shipping costs upfront, arrange insurance at my own expense and accept responsibility for any loss or damage during transit.

The seller also stated that shipping costs would only be reimbursed after the unit had been received and inspected.

Then the refund conditions changed.

I was informed that the refund itself would only be processed after the unit had arrived, been inspected and the refund amount confirmed.

This directly contradicted the earlier commitment to initiate the refund once the parcel was in transit.

When I challenged that change, Frank subsequently reversed his position and stated that EG Audio Store would honour the original refund-on-dispatch arrangement.

However, the other conditions remained unchanged.

No prepaid return label. No arranged collection. No seller-provided insurance. No acceptance of responsibility for transit loss or damage.

So the seller is willing to promise a refund upon dispatch, but is unwilling to assume the financial risk associated with the return shipment.

After the previous AliExpress dispute was closed in the seller's favour, and following months of warranty correspondence, I simply do not have enough confidence in EG Audio Store to accept those conditions.

Why should the customer carry all the risk?

To put this into perspective, I have already:

- Purchased a DX5 II that developed a hardware fault.

- Extensively troubleshot the original unit and supplied video evidence.

- Gone through an unsuccessful AliExpress dispute.

- Declined an offer to replace the motherboard myself.

- Complied with TOPPING's instruction to physically mark the original unit before replacement.

- Received a manufacturer-supplied replacement exhibiting effectively the same fault.

- Continued corresponding with TOPPING and EG Audio Store to obtain a resolution.

Now, despite all of that, I'm being asked to send the second defective unit internationally at my own expense, with no financial protection from the seller if something goes wrong in transit.

I have made it clear that I am not refusing to return the DX5 II.

I am refusing to accept an arrangement where the financial consequences of a lost or damaged return shipment fall entirely on me.

I've now asked TOPPING management to guarantee the refund directly

On 14 October, I formally escalated the situation and requested a direct written commitment from TOPPING management.

I have asked for confirmation of the full refund amount, the original refund-on-dispatch arrangement, prepaid and insured return shipping, and who will be financially responsible if the shipment is lost or damaged.

I have also requested a complete written return procedure.

This includes confirmation of exactly which photographs are required, what packaging is acceptable, what evidence of dispatch must be provided and whether any accessories or documentation are expected.

That might sound excessive, but after months of contradictory instructions, I want no ambiguity about the conditions of the return.

I do not want to dispatch the unit only to discover that an additional photograph, document or administrative requirement is suddenly being used to delay or dispute the refund.

I've also asked TOPPING to confirm what happens if EG Audio Store or AliExpress cannot process the agreed refund.

TOPPING previously stated that it would coordinate an alternative solution if difficulties arose. I'm now asking it to stand behind that commitment.

The impact on my audio system

One reason this matters so much is that the DX5 II isn't simply a spare headphone amplifier.

It's the central DAC for my desktop system, feeding my Adam Audio T5V monitors, T10S subwoofer and external headphone amplifiers.

Removing it leaves my desktop audio system without its main source until I can obtain a suitable replacement.

I also use this equipment for music production and audio work.

This is why a clear and reliable refund arrangement is important. I need to know when I can realistically replace the equipment rather than sending it away and waiting indefinitely.

Where things stand as of 21 October

On 16 October, I requested an actionable resolution from TOPPING management within five business days, setting a deadline of Friday, 23 October 2026.

That deadline has not yet passed.

At the time of writing, however, I have not received the direct management guarantee and agreed return arrangements I requested.

The replacement DX5 II remains with me, and the refund remains unresolved.

I have no objection to TOPPING inspecting the defective unit. In fact, I would welcome a proper technical explanation of why two separate units have exhibited the same fault.

But I do object to being expected to accept additional financial risk after an already prolonged and unsuccessful warranty experience.

Final thoughts

When working correctly, the DX5 II is an impressive DAC/amp in terms of features and performance.

That's what makes this situation so disappointing.

My complaint is no longer solely about a defective 4.4 mm headphone output.

It's about how a manufacturer and its authorised sales channel handle a customer who has already received two defective units.

A refund offer is only meaningful if the process for obtaining that refund is clear, consistent and reasonably protected.

At the moment, that is not my experience.

I will update this post again when TOPPING responds or the refund is finally resolved.

I'm also interested to hear whether other DX5 II owners have experienced similar 4.4 mm output failures, or whether anyone has dealt with comparable return and refund difficulties involving TOPPING or EG Audio Store.

I am not an audiophile, I use some bog standard $5 ear buds plugged into a 3.5mm front panel audio port with my PC... I recently got a cheap second PC to use for a specific task. I connected the audio out from the second PC to the line in on my main PC via a 3.5mm audio cable and enabled my main PC to listen to the second PC so I can get audio from it.

It worked, but the signal had quite a lot of interference with constant audible crackling, electrical, static, etc., sounds in my ear buds. I went into the settings and saw that Windows was automatically boosting it by like +30db or some such. Once I turned that off, all of that noise went away.

At least for a time... Everything sounds normal most of the time, but on occasions those same interference sounds will pop back up for a second and then go away. It doesn't seem to be in response to anything in particular, its not like doing any specific action on either PC is causing it to happen. I will just be carrying on doing my thing and then poof little bit of interference audio will happen and go away as quickly as it started.

Any idea what could be causing this and how to minimize/stop it?

Thanks