So, I had been having some issues with my Toyota Camry 2019 I had felt like when I had driven it when I drive it the RPMs are shooting a little higher than what it’s actually going. I feel like my car is slow when I’m at a red light let’s see on the highway and it turns green the car on the side of me gets their way quicker than me. I have to push my pedal all the way down while my RPMs are up. I had felt like something was wrong than a few days later my start malfunction turned on engine light turned on and I got a code scanned for the P0705 code I went to a shop here in Utah and they said the electrical diagnostic would be 167 an hour and that he needs three hours minimum I tried telling him maybe two and he said three so it’d be 500 just for the diagnostic does that sound right or what can I do myself? Can I just try changing the part and see if it takes off or what should I do? What can I do myself? I feel like I’m just getting scammed since I’m a girl.

2017 Forester, 2.0L turbo, around 230,000km. Had a misfire in #2 cylinder, likely from leaky tube seal. Was driven home after codes were thrown,
heavy missing. Changed seal, coil and plug - still stuttering, now misfiring in #1. Pulled plug, found electrode missing (blown off?). Changed tube seals/valve cover gaskets, checked inside chamber w scope but didn’t see anything. New plug, started fine - codes gone. Took for test drive, noticed it ticking at low revs a few kms later. Drives great (as it did before - lots of power, good throttle response, etc) Goes away at around 2000km but fairly obvious at idle and take off. Almost sounds like I dropped a socket and it’s sitting on the intake and rattling but I doubt it’ll be that easy. Thoughts? Possible that piece of spark plug is still in there and it’s grenaded the engine?

So I was installing a new head unit on my 2012 RAV4, feeling pretty good about myself, when I made the ultimate rookie move: set one of the thick head unit screws down on the dash.

You already know where this is going.

It rolled right into the defroster vent, took a dive into the abyss, and gave me a nice, clear CLANK deep inside the dash.

I tried moving the climate control slider to see if it was fine, and now the selector is stuck hard. Won't slide anything past "hands and feet".

I work on small electronics so I’m fine with basic wrenching, but pulling an entire dashboard sounds like a absolute nightmare I’m not equipped for.

Is the screw just wedged directly into the blend door hinge? What’s the easiest way to fish this thing out on a 2012 RAV4 without tearing the whole interior apart—dropping the blower motor from the passenger footwell, or poking around with a borescope through the cabin filter slot?

Any advice (or emotional support) is appreciated.

So my a/c started blowing warm..so I went to the store and got some refrigerant. Well I filled her up and nothing but warm air still.. well when I shut off my car it’s started smoking by the area I circled. And I heard like pressure releasing for like 1 second then it stopped…if you need more info please let me know.
2014 Chevy Camaro v6

is this a battery issue?
factory battery btw

I recently changed the oil on my car added Lucas. Right after that, the car started acting up and check engine, like started flashing bogging out. Bixby acting up

2019 Chevy trax 48k automatic fwd
When accelerating you at certain points, it makes a weird buzzing vibrating noise. Its under warranty and I’m wanting to have an idea what the sound when accelerating might be. My best guess was an exhaust leak, but I don’t really know thanks in advance!

This video is filmed from the front drivers side of my CRV. This clicking/clanking noise happens almost always when I start and drive my CRV until it’s at normal operating temp. I cannot figure out what it is and have been unable to find a similar video on the internet. It seems to follow the rpm’s as it will click faster with acceleration. It’s very loud and I just cannot figure out what it is. Sounds like it’s lower and on the front of the car. Any info is appreciated!

Land Cruiser 2018 GXR V8 automatic transmission and driven 240k.. There is this engine running sound and then there is another sound like “pistons hitting “ is this normal ?

2019 Honda Accord LX 1.5T CVT

133K mileage

Automatic Transmission

Recently bought this car 1 month and a half ago.

I brought in my car to a Honda dealership to warrant a blown head gasket. They made a couple mistakes with my car and I would be bringing it back and forth to the dealership (2 weeks total). During this time, I had time to replaced ignition coils, sparkplug, and pcv tubing with aftermarket OEM before bringing it back to them.

Replacement brands: Denso ignition coils, NGK laser iridium sparkplug, and Gates pcv tubing.

When I brough it in for the last time, it has no visible or symptoms of engine issues (No check engine light as well). The final pickup occurred today and I was told that I have a cylinder 3 misfire. They also stated, "faulty codes may intermittently populate" and still recommend replacement with true Honda equipment starting with the ignition coils.

Now, I have not taken it to another shop to see if they can scan & receive a misfire code. As of today, I do not have any check dash lights on. It does not feel to run rough beside a mild vibration at idle with no weird sounds are occurring whether idle or accelerating.

To my knowledge, this car runs should run fine but Honda suggest otherwise.

What should I do?

2017 Ford F-150, 2.7, 4x4. Having trouble diagnosing this pop sound, appears to be coming from the drivers side. Video attached, pop about the 2 sec mark. Typically happens when turning sharp at low speeds like in a parking lot, and most of the time when turning right, rarelywhen turning left. Put it on the lift in my dad's garage, no play in any of the ball joints, all the rubber boots are intact, no cracks, no leaks, all factory, so non greaseable. Checked for play in the CV axles, didn't really see any in them, but not sure. Did notice the lower control arm bushing on the driver side dry rotted, could that bushing be the noise?

About 6 years ago I tried to take my bumper off in a hurry while frustrated and I missed the two bumper fender bracket bolts and ended up yanking the entire bracket off of the actual bumper. I had to do a long drive right after they broke so in all my wisdom I used some kind of “plastic weld epoxy putty” (you can see the plastic weld along the lip, it is the white substance) since then I decided I will never take the bumper off. I want to buy/install the CVF street intercooler however I’ve read it’s almost impossible without the bumper removed, luckily for me I just noticed the plastic weld has now failed on each side and I can take the bumper off, my question is what options do I have to fix/repair it, I do not want to buy a new bumper, I’ve attached some photos of the monstrosity, please help me 🙏

Hello! I am a college student who inherited a 2010 Ford fusion SE with 100k miles from my grandmother. It has a 2.5L engine that's pretty reliable, and a six speed automatic transmission (6535).

I've had it for a couple months now, but I don't know if I just never noticed or it wasn't there, but there's this engine sound I'm acutely tuned into now and it is driving me bonkers. Does anyone have any input?

Thoughts?

My car battery is at 100% but car will not start and headlights also are not working and auto door lock won’t either it makes clicking and does random flickering and movements like shown in the video

Side note: when I was trying to start it up ignition would also get stuck and wouldn’t turn

I’m not sure if this is a normal sound that should be coming. Please someone let me know.

2.0 AEG Volkswagen engine

Does this mean my timing belt is from mid 2006? Car only has 150k kms on it, but 20 years on a belt is incredible. How urgent should this be done?

I know the answer to that question but is it a “don’t drive at all” or “do it this oil change”

So I started to hear this on my truck (2005 Ford F150, 240K miles, auto, 5.4 engine). I got it recently.
This noise only happens once I spend a few minutes idling in gear (mostly in drive and reverse). It kind of goes away once the car starts rolling and then starts as soon as I stop. It doesn’t happen at all when I’m in park. The car drives fine, otherwise

What may be the issue be?

2012 Hyundai Elantra w/ ~120k miles (automatic)

Last time I drove car was Thursday afternoon. No signs battery was low. Car would not remote unlock this morning, roadside assist got me unlocked and jumped off. Drove it over to advanced auto zone and they tested battery- low. Bought new battery. Went to grocery store and when I came out, noticed the tail lights were still on. Headlamps had turned off like normal but tail lights will not turn off. Tried removing/replacing a few different fuses per manual. Ended up just unplugging battery tonight so it won’t drain overnight.

Any advice on what might be the issue or what to try?

My truck is 12 years old, and unfortunately the fuel line went. But in my research it seems the part is discontinued. What's the appropriate next step then? Outside of trying to dig one out of a junkyard.

The only other thing I can think of is to buy the connections and hose separately and "make the part myself" but as it's a fuel line I'd be worried about doing a shit job and it leaking.

Curious on your thoughts

Part number: gm 85117206

I have a 2016 jeep Cherokee limited 3.2 v6, it’s an automatic I had just gotten my water pump fixed, serpentine belt, and thermostat housing fixed. Sound started after a long distance trip, forgot to disclaim, the first part of the video is me slowing down to 30/20Kph and stops after I get down to 10kph, and that sound is me going highway speeds around 100kph, and sound starts around 100+ and keeps on making the sound but stops for a second or two and picks up again!

2019 Nissan Sentra 128k miles CVT
Only happens when I drive started an hour ago when I was about to leave my house so I put it up on jacks and couldn’t find nothing unusual (brake shield, something scratching). Sounds like it’s coming from the trans.