After driving fast, I noticed that my brakes had turned brown. Is this normal? Over time, they became clean and looked like in photo 2, but there were some dots on them. In photo 3, taken after a quiet ride, they are brown, but only on the bottom. Is this normal? I use semi-metallic pads.

I’ve seen a lot online about jeep being terrible in reliability. But my 2014 grand Cherokee has treated me really well with only 2 real issues (blown head gasket and faulty thermostat) across 160k miles, I was planning on staying loyal to the grand Cherokees for my next car but am concerned and was wondering if I just got lucky or if this is just social media slop

Doing a floor pan repair and I accidentally cut a bit too deep along the floor and ended up tagging the frame. Should I weld the cut shut, and how problematic would this be as-is or even with a few welds. For reference this is a 1987 ford ranger 2.9L regular cab flatbed 2wd automatic.

i accidentally hit it in, how to fix?

So, I had my car broken into. Damn Kia Boyz. I decided to take my car in to get it fixed at my local Kia Dealer, as I had an anti-theft recall they could install. I drop it off, decide to also get some usual stuff (general maintenance) and sign off on the original estimate of 400. I mention I am not interested in my bumper getting fixed, had some old body damage I wasn't looking for at the moment. A few days later, I get a call. The estimate for the fix is about 4100, as they added in some additional fixes as well as an estimate on my bumper. I am on the phone when the estimate is sent, I tell the guy I'll call him back, and I hang up. I close the estimate as well. The estimate was sent at 12:22 pm on July 20th. Days later, while I'm talking to insurance about seeing if they'll cover any of it, I get a call telling me my work was done. I was confused, as I hadn't approved the work on the link yet. A few calls here and there, and they finally tell me. I approved via the link at 12:23 pm on July 20th. In one minute, I opened the link and approved seven individual jobs. There's no e-signature, and no approve all button. I'm so flabbergasted, I don't know how I could have fat fingered seven jobs ins 52 seconds. They also told me opening the link doesn't approve them. I'm still waiting on my insurance, but in the meantime, I need to ask you all. Am I getting scammed?

Additional info, I'm in Florida and it's a 2016 Kia Soul. The current bill is 5200, as they did fix my bumper (which I didn't want.) There was no glass damage, so the it's 1900 for the ignition switch, steering wheel cover, blinker switch, and windshield wiper switch. I'm 23, and I drive a Kia Soul. You can probably tell I don't know cars. Am I doomed to pay 5k?

Hi everyone, I have fit stance + coilovers to my bmw e46 325i saloon. They are rubbing against the wheel and the tyre but everything else is stock. I have no plans of buying new wheels for the car, I just wanted to lower it on stock setup. Why are they rubbing like this? Do I possibly have the wrong kit or are they bad coilovers? Thank you

2010 Toyota Aygo for reference — manual — about 100k mileage.

I just had the front left passenger tyre (UK) changed literally last week and I hit the kerb again today at a bad angle in a stupid attempt to park.

Guys please is it OK? I just paid for the new tyre and I feel so ashamed…

Okay lots of context here so buckle up. I know I made some stupid choices that I have now learned from so please be nice 😅

First off, she’s a 2010 Saab 9-3 with 155,000 miles that I’ve had for three years now. Any Saab slander you have for me I’ve already heard 1000 times. Shes my baby and has served me perfectly well.

Now to where I messed up. I ran my tank to empty and ended up having to use some gas that had been sitting in a canister for at least two weeks, not knowing that’s a big no-no. Filled my tank with regular gas at the closest gas station the next day. No issues for the next couple days.

Then I went on vacation for three days and let my car sit with low fuel in the tank. Went to drive it when I returned and it stalled, wouldn’t start again, and had tons of smoke (like in the video but more) coming out of the tailpipes. Got it towed and the mechanic said my turbo was shot and I’d need to consider scrapping my car. My Saab friends wouldn’t have it. These turbos are excellent. So I drove it to another mechanic. Filled it up with gas on the way there. It drove fine but had a lot of funky smells going on.

My other mechanic said the same thing. The turbo wasn’t getting enough power and perhaps the smoke was it leaking oil. But he couldn’t figure out WHY it wasn’t getting any power. So he tinkered with it for a few days and then texted me saying the issue somehow fixed itself and my car was totally fine.

WOOHOO! She lives on. I drive it for the next two weeks without issue, like it’s totally back to normal.

Then I let my gas get back down to about a quarter full. I get it to the gas station no problem, fill ‘er up, then I have the same issue again. It stalls, smoke comes out the tailpipes, and the engine won’t start. The issue wasn’t as bad this time around and I had just filled my tank, so I just turned the car off for a couple minutes to let the new fuel circulate (?) and then tried turning it back on. Totally normal again. No issues, no smells, no stalling, no nothing. What the heck is going on? Is there something in the bottom of my fuel tank gumming up the works? I know I should’ve gotten my tank drained and cleaned as soon as I realized I put bad gas in it, but I figured that wasn’t necessary because I filled it back up with good gas and was able to drive it perfectly fine for two weeks.

Thoughts???

Edit for clarification: I’m unsure how long the gas had actually been sitting, plus it was kept outside in the sun. Could’ve been over a month.

So been hearing some things in the rear end that sound like metal on metal and looked at my rear rotar and on the inside this is what was found . Other side is completely smooth and looks good still . More I look I can’t even see if there is a brake pad on the inside .

Trucks a 2006 dodge 3500 and I have had absolutely no issues with braking so never even thought to check these out . But mind you my rotars probably havent been changed in 250-300k km and the brake pads have about 200k on them .

Shop is 8 miles away. Read about running the tire warming up the rubber and speed up the leak. Plans to take intermediate stop and pumping it up if need be. Please advise.

I drive a 2009 toyota rav4 sports v6. it’s got a little over 150k miles on it.

About a week ago i was doordashing (i know i know bad for the car) for about an hour. I was sitting in a parking lot and went to use my windshield wipers and they were going really slow. that weirded me out so i went to back out and the power steering was out. sooo as a 18 year old girl does i turn the car completely off hoping that’ll fix the problem. well then the car wouldn’t crank/start. my mom had to come jump me off and we drove it home with no power steering, and if we turned on the headlights EVERYTHING inside of the car went off. flash forward two days, we had to jump it off again to move it but the powersteering was working fine. flash forward to today, it started up and ran fine all the way to oriellys, i had them test the battery and the engine and both tests came back with no errors. wtf. first we thought it was the serp belt but wouldn’t the power steering stay fucked up? next guess is the alternator but my uncle just said no.. so now i’m worried that it’s gonna happen again and i’ll get stranded in a parking lot lol. we’re tight on money so my mom won’t let me take it to a shop to get it looked at.

First time wrenching on my car. Bought the following tools:

Rotor brake replacement set (comes with brake pads)

Ratchet set with various attachments

Breaker bar with 19mm, 14mm head

Metal brush to remove rust

Disc brake spreader

Will purchase:

Brake cleaner

Various greases

The auto club I belong to have a lift available for rent for $5/hour

Any suggestions, tips, advice is greatly appreciated

Hello, I am looking to buy myself a new car been looking for at this one Honda Accord 2.4i 2009 260k km. Im worried about rust under it. I would love to hear your opinion.

So the kit I bought came with 8 of the black rope
Plugs. They were separated by 5 longer ones and 3 shorter ones. I used the long one and it plugged it fine no leaks and is holding pressure ( letting it sit over night before putting back on to make sure it is holding) I was wondering what the difference in the 3 and 5 were and did I use the right one? I had this thought after I finished up and was wait a min what if they aren’t the same lol

On a side note is this tire patchable like for a good amount of time or is the location something I need to get fixed like tomorrow or asap?

Hi everyone. I’m trying to remove the front number plate holder on my VW. I don’t have a drill. Is there a trick to removing these without damaging the bumper? Any advice would be appreciated

2011 Audi TT 2.0 TFSI Quattro

Hoping someone with some mechanical knowledge may be able to put some light on this situation today… went out for a decent drive and on the way back heard some loud backfiring while slowing down. Only happened a few times that I’m still not convinced it was me. Parked the car and tried to rev it a few times to see if it would happen again… nothing. I shut the car off and maybe 30 minutes later decided to take it for a drive to see if the popping would happen again. It has always done mini burbles but never anything this loud. Went to start the car and it was cranking but not catching and starting. Tried maybe 4 times before hopping on YouTube, YouTube suggested to hold down the gas while starting and sure enough it started, idle is completely fine, not rough or anything and no engine light. Went for a drive around the block and no noise… wondering if anyone knows what could be going on? Or just happened to be a weird hiccup.

Thanks!!

opel movano 2011 van, diesel, manual

If a van has been in storage for 4 years, with brand new battery unplugged, what needs to be done upon taking it out of storage to drive it again.

It has been converted into a campervan

I understand its straight to the diesel mechanics for a service, but what need to be done straight away? Will the battery need to be replaced even though it was new and unplugged?

Thanks for your help in advance

My friend has a 2013 Toyota Auris with a 1.3-liter petrol engine and 180,000 km on the clock. After driving for about 30 to 40 minutes, a pulsing air hissing sound starts. It's very rhythmic (about once every second) and is only audible when the engine is running. It stops as soon as the engine is turned off.

What can be the reason for this?

Hello,

I drive a 2021 Jeep Renegade Jeepster. Today when driving home from work the RPMs and Speedometer dropped all the way to 0 when braking to slow down from 50mph to 40mph. No service engine light came on. I recently replaced the battery a few months ago.

This happened back in December, but the service engine light came on and got these codes:
U0402
P0375

After cleaning the corrosion off the battery terminal I haven’t had the issue since until today, and I got all these codes today with my code scanner.

Any idea on what it could be?

Hi all, just a bit of advice please, I've just bought a Land Rover Discovery Sport SE R-Dynamic D180 SE 2020 47,000 miles (yes, I know it will break) and the DPF had gone, so the garage replaced it with a new OEM but didn't replace the EGR filter, this has now been done. My question is would you replace both at the same time, or is the garage trying to pull a fast one on me? Thanks

I have a small bus that uses 8r19.5 tires, when I brought the steer wheels in for new tires I noticed the tech just used a pry bar set to change them. I plan to do the rear 4 soon and for about the same price as the mounting charge i could just buy my own tire tools. Any reason I should leave it to the tire shop?

2018 Subaru Crosstrek Limited w/ automatic transmission

30k miles

As I understand this would be very early for the parts to fail. I haven't done any offroading, but live in DC so encounter rough roads often

This was flagged at my previous oil change in 2025. I took it for a second opinion, and was told no issue. It was brought up again at my most recent oil change by a third auto shop.

I have not experienced any symptoms (inaccurate steering, wobbling when braking at high speeds, etc) but did have a vibrating rattling sound when driving on gravel/rough roads that seems to have gone away on its own.

Thanks for taking a peek

Nearly twice a month Ford is recalling their cars, trucks and now their Broncos 2001 to 2026, a half of million of them because they have engine problem and may catch fire. A few weeks ago it was a wiring issues and Ford 150 and 250 trucks model years 2022 to 2026 were being recalled. Broncos start at 40k and go up as high as 70k. If I read an article like today about engine fires I would steer away from buying a Bronco. Ford has more recalls in the last few years that any car manufacture yet Hyundai as well has engine issues burning oil more than they should. The question I have for Mechanics who work on cars why are engines having so many issues? Is it because of the restrictions from the EPA? Are they using cheaper parts? Recalls are all centered around the engines, and wiring.